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The recent opening of Lansky's deli on Columbus Avenue has not received a whole lot of play, but it's noteworthy as a possible marker of a reversal in a trend. The decline of the Jewish deli occurred unchecked for most of the latter part of the 20th Century. But in the past few years there seems to have been a small countervailing trend. In the past year we've seen the new Second Avenue Deli and a total newcomer: Lansky's. Artie's Deli on Broadway and Pastrami Queen may also have been early indicators of a small shift back in the deli's favor.

I'm particularly fond of Lansky's, and not just because it's so convenient to my mother's apartment (and not just because it's such a relief to see the talented but unfortunate David Ruggerio involved in something worthwhile). It is a faithful, very good Jewish deli -- not kosher, but mostly kosher-style-ish. The menu is broad-ranging and everything I've tried has conformed to a high standard. For a restaurant like this to spring up out of nowhere is a great thing for lovers of deli.

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Steven A. Shaw aka "Fat Guy"
Co-founder, Society for Culinary Arts & Letters, sshaw@egstaff.org
Proud signatory to the eG Ethics code
Director, New Media Studies, International Culinary Center (take my food-blogging course)

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