TN: White of white

[Florida Jim]

After eight months away from my cellar, it is a delight beggaring description to return and have such variety to choose from. And on a cool, clear night, dinner with friends on the back porch is a chance to indulge:

With radicchio leaves stuffed with herb marinated goat cheese:

2005 La Pépière, Muscadet Granite de Clisson:

A bottle of this on release left me with an impression of too much softness but VLM recently tasted it and said he thought I’d be happier with it now. Turns out, monkeys do have magical powers.

Very few young white wines (or aged ones, for that matter) have this expressive a nose; flowers, jalapeño, river stones, saline, fresh cracked pepper, white grapes, citrus zest – and the blend of scents seems to change with each sniff – a remarkably complex, dimensional and character driven nose; quite fresh and deep with good flesh in the mouth but an almost weightless delivery of layered flavors that echo the nose, fine acidity and balance, of a piece; very long, intense and nuanced finish. $20!

I get the feeling this is just beginning to show what it has – and that is saying something. Very nice with the dish.

With grilled chicken breasts with gremolata, grilled asparagus and fresh, sliced tomatoes:

2000 Raveneau, Chablis Butteaux:

Starts off somewhat closed - just a bit of vanilla and some light chardonnay scents – but with time in the glass the vanilla recedes and a mineral/floral character rises up to frame lovely ripe fruit; medium weight in the mouth with good balance and density but still retains its elegant character; medium length finish that has an echo of vanilla and mineral. Perhaps, a little too early to this but no sign of pre-ox and delicious with the dish as well as on its own. One of the few times I thought a vanilla component did not detract from a chardonnay.

Best, Jim