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Eating in Colonia, Uruguay


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Just back from a four day jaunt in Colonia del Sacramento, it's a wonderful quiet little town across the river from Buenos Aires, probably the most relaxed place of it's size I've ever been and well worth the trip. It is unfortunately a bit of a culinary desert (I had the most insultingly bad coffee possible in 'El Drugstore') and we despaired after our second meal of satisfying our yen for something interesting to eat. Then we stumbled across 'Puerto Madera', an outdoor asado with wonderful views and a massive open wood oven run by an odd hippyish crowd set roughly at 8 de Octubre and Santa Rita.

Each night there was a different entire animal being spit roasted to perfection, we had an unbelievably succulent rack of lamb with flank meat still attached, a Segovia standard suckling pig, superb steaks, a truly wonderful whole seabass and the best salmon I've tasted in the southern hemisphere. Everything was nicely seasoned and the garnishes, basically peppers, chips and salads were excellent. Add in a clear starry sky, a warm night sea breeze and the company and we had three very memorable meals.

Two caveats however, the music is abysmal faux ambient and loud enough to be irritating and the service is slipshod at best albeit very friendly, it's not fine dining but the food is of a better standard than many exalted establishments in Buenos Aires.

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