Lumiere

mamster · September 29, 2002

I was in Vancouver on Thursday to participate in a panel at the Association of Food Journalists conference. My panel was on restaurant critic ethics, and I was invited by AFJ President-elect Bill Daley, aka Mebutter. Luckily, I was also invited to stick around for lunch at Lumiere. So, after holding forth on the importance of anonymity, I went to a meal with several dozen food critics wearing nametags.

Lumiere has been reported on here before, and I'm lazy, so I'll just touch on a few highlights from the 9-course lunch. I like the very simple, Northwesty decor, although I worry it might be too austere if the restaurant weren't packed (but how likely is that?). It is very loud when full, but maybe only when it's full of reporters, who are loud by nature.

Each course had a matching 1.5 to 2 ounce taste of wine. I thought the best overall wine match was the first: Zind-Humbrecht Clos Hauserer riesling 1999 with an amuse of albacore sashimi topped with som tam, or Thai-style green papaya salad. This was an unexpectly authentic little som tam, although it had toasted pine nuts instead of peanuts. They went light on the lime juice so it would pair well with the wine, and it was just an awesome match--bite of amuse, sip of wine, and boom, tuna flavor comes to the fore.

The best overall dish was butternut squash and mascarpone ravioli. Normally I do not like butternut squash ravioli: it's always either too sweet or stringy. Not today. These were two ravioli, looking like a pair of sunny-side-up eggs, topped with with black truffle beurre blanc (flash-frozen truffles, the chef told us), EVOO, and fleur de sel. The essence of creamy, and not too sweet.

One of the best and very French things about Lumiere's food is the concentration of flavor in the tiny accompanying elements. This was exemplified by the foie gras dish, a bite of seared foie gras wrapped in a slice of duck breast, served atop cauliflower puree and in turn topped with a prosciutto and herb "salad", really just a teaspoon of crispy prosciutto and herb bits. A couple of the dishes (not this one) were served in espresso cups; I would have gladly accepted an oversized mug of the buttery cauliflower puree.

There was a very nice Quebecois goat cheese called Cabri Cendré; the cheese course overall was well done, consisting of three Canadian cheeses, fig bread and fruit-nut bread, and a glass of Australian tawny port.

Desserts (a sorbet and a berries-and-cream concoction) were fine, but it was clear that the heart of this place is not in the desserts.

The plates are very small, and I left after three hours sated and a little drunk, but not overly full. I sat next to eGullet member Marlena Spieler, who is a fount of entertaining stories; she told us about her recent visit to a prosciutto festival in Parma, where everything was delicious except the prosciutto desserts.

It's probably unfair to recommend Lumiere after this carefully orchestrated pull-out-all-the-stops lunch, but what the hell? I loved it.

Fat Guy · September 30, 2002

That's pretty much what you'll be served at Lumiere no matter who you are and no matter when you go. It's a superb restaurant, one of the two best upscale fine dining places in Vancouver and also one of the best restaurants in its region (Pacific Northwest) and country (Canada). Over the course of a few visits to Vancouver, a couple of which presented the opportunity to compare the two restaurants directly, I've leaned towards Ouest as the more focused kitchen with a higher degree of technical perfectionism. The approach at Lumiere is quite reminiscent of the freewheeling style in evidence at Charlie Trotter's or the French Laundry, whereas Ouest's cuisine is more along the carefully composed lines of Jean Georges or a contemporary European restaurant with a Michelin star or two. That's just a preference I have.

I very much appreciated your first paragraph, by the way.

mamster · October 1, 2002

Laurie and I are planning to go to Ouest next time we're in Vancouver, but I also have to take her to the tasting bar at Lumiere for some more of those ravioli. Perhaps they could be persuaded to do an all-you-can-eat ravioli thing. "Olive Garden is doing it," I will tell them.

Also, dammit, if I want to convince myself I'm getting special treatment, who are you to tell me any different?

Fat Guy · October 1, 2002

Sorry. I thought you wanted to hear that you weren't getting special treatment, so that's what I told you. But of course it's clear from your post that you got a lot of very special treatment.

Mebutter · October 1, 2002

Beautiful description of the lunch! I literally didn't eat for 24 hours after visiting Lumiere.

I, too, love the first paragraph. It does all sounds a bit silly - going on about anonymity and then showing up with name tags - (this is the sort of irony that could feed a couple dozen "compromised critic" threads) but I have to point out the name tags were necessary.

The name tags served as our tickets (a reason I reminded Mamster to bring his along) into all AFJ events.

Though this was clearly not a "reviewing" lunch, I don't think there were any Vancouver critics amongst us. In fact, the Vancouver Sun critic never showed up for any of the AFJ events in or out of restaurants. Didn't want to be seen associating, etc., etc., etc.

I certainly hope we see Mamster at future AFJ events. His comments were much appreciated. Perhaps at the 2003 conference in Boston...

Would love to see you, too, Mr. Shaw (and any other food journalist)

:smile:

Bill Daley

Fat Guy · October 1, 2002

Mamster, as I think more about the special treatment you received, I grow increasingly envious.

mamster · October 1, 2002

They actually never asked to see my nametag when I went in. I just said, "I'm with the food journalists," and they whisked me inside and started pouring wine. Based on this experience, I intend to say that every time I go into a restaurant from now on. I will be wearing a disguise, so it will be completely ethical.

boris · February 16, 2003

It is with regret that a restaurant I have enjoyed so many times in the past will, for this individual, become a thing of the past.

I have enjoyed many (over 10) meals at Lumiere. It is not that the food has gone downhill - it is just that it has now become a poor "quality/price ratio" experience. The wine list has always been ridiculously overpriced, but the food prices, I felt, balanced it out. Especially with a reasonable corkage fee. Pricing (QPR) for their food is now equivocal to other local restaurants. I compare to Ouest/West, Bishop's, La Crocodile, La Gavroche (can't wait for it to re-open).

The style; similar, but not nearly as well executed as Thomas Keller or Charlie Trotter, lacks the service and intimacy of these two restaurants. Tables are tightly spaced, decor, etc is quite basic. I make the comparison, because this seems to be the peer group that Robert Feeney feels he is in. Mr. Feeney feels that he can now charge French Laundry/Charley Trotter corkage fees, with a wine list mark-up to match. That would be fine if the ambiance or service was close, but unfortunately my last two meals made me left feeling as though I were in a very decorative cafeteria - we were not active participants, we were mere observers, there to adjust to the experience.

My main problem; however, is that I enjoy wine with my meal, and Lumiere has always had a poor value wine list. It is full of wines that have been inflated 300% (perhaps even 400%, but my sense of being taken advantage of may be impairing my memory).

If the wines were gems in the rough, then fine - but the morning of our last dinner I saw the sommelier at the local liquor store filling the shopping cart with some pretty pedestrian offerings. When you are charged $40.00 for a bottle of wine you see the next day for $11.99 you feel taken.

It perpetuates the myth that wine is an elite beverage ONLY meant for special occasions. Furthermore, when you drink that $40.00 wine that is meant to retail for $11.99, I believe the wine producers reputation is affected. The general public don't see a $12 bottle of wine, but a producer that makes a poor QPR $40 bottle of wine.

My solution in the past has been corkage $20-$25, order a couple of wines by the glass, and tip well (20-30%) to make up for REASONABLE lost wine sale revenue. Well imagine my shock at finding corkage has been increased to $75!! - See post below-. At those prices, they must be trying to direct me towards their stellar wine list?? The last time I checked, it was full of: overpriced lesser vintages, an assortment of average - widely available producers, or immature wine.

Basically, I am now at the mercy of a punitively priced wine list. Fine if I am AT The French Laundry, Gary Danko, Charlie Trotter, Daniel, Chez Panisse, Troisgros, Carre des Feuillants, L'Alexandrin (in Lyon - go!), el Raco de Can Fabes, or El Bulli. I've been to them, and many others, so trust me - Lumiere is NOT in the same ballpark. Furthermore, the European counterparts price their lists well. Is it because the public is more wine savvy, and refuse to be taken advantage of?

I'm tempted to order water (tap) with my meals :wink: . On second thought, Vancouver has so much else to offer!

I welcome debate on this topic - Your thoughts!

Jinmyo · February 16, 2003

Boris, welcome to eGullet.

I agree with all of your points on principle but sadly have little more to contribute.

While waiting for more cogent comments from others, can I trouble you for further commentary on the meal?

boris · February 18, 2003

Jinmyo,

It has been a few months since my last dining experience at Lumiere; therefore, I really shouldn't comment on specifics other than to say I was very pleased with my food there. I have never been dissapointed with the FOOD - more than a few of the dishes have " rocked my world" such as : lobster with leek ravioli horseradish and beet sauce, crab with watermelon soup, braised beef short rib, sablefish marinated in maple syrup and sake, ANY cheese course, etc...Rather, it has been a more insidious attitude and general environment change that I had noticed during my last two visits (approx 6 months apart). Feeney is still an extremely talented chef, and one of my favorites. It is just that when compared to other talented chefs in the same area, I cannot justify the cost of the experience. Likewise, if you want to charge the same as the other All-Stars, you better be able to hit the ball just as far. I would rather spend my All-Star money elsewhere.

If I know other restaurants in the area won't charge me as much, won't punish me for bringing a wine (or if they will, at least give me a decent and well-priced wine list), and won't make me feel like I'm yet another diner being crammed into "prime real-estate", then I will go...and have!

I had planned another trip in the near future, but when I got wind of a change in corkage policy, I telephoned the restaurant to confirm if this was in fact true ($75). Sadly it is. Obviously they can have that policy and still be full. For that I congratulate them.

In the meantime, I had dined at West and had a truly enjoyable meal. I would like to post a more detailed note later, as I am still composing notes, but allow me to say that the highlights were the:

Quebec Foie Gras and Chicken Liver Parfait (apple jelly with toasted brioche). Beautiful presentation, brioche done perfectly. Rich yet light enough to not overwhelm. Would a hint more acidity in the apple jelly have brought the dish up to another level? Has to be seen to be believed.

Sugar Pumpkin Ravioli. Again, extremely well presented, with an amazing aroma of roasted squash. Hint of amaretto/almond truly made this the dish of the night.

Tangerine Sorbet. I want to know what this was laying on. A merangue? Excellent dish

Chocolate Passionfruit Cake . The pastry chef closed with this. It made me think I was served Ding Dongs and Twinkies at Gary Danko. Kudos both to Hawksworth and Pastry chef Viani for a great meal!

Cheers!

boris · February 18, 2003