McCormick & Shmick's

[ngatti]

I recently had lunches at two of Bergen County’s newest restaurants: “Morton’s” and “McCormick & Schmick’s”. Both are located at the route 4 end of the ‘Riverside Square Mall’: the mall where the business model (arguably) seems to be one, where restaurants bring the traffic to the stores rather than the other way around.

More and more of the so-called, *upscale* dinner house chains are staking out territory in North Jersey. These two restaurants add their marques to a mall where “The Cheesecake Factory” and “Houston’s” already crowd the parking lots with diners willing to wait over an hour for a taste of the restaurant equivalent of ‘format radio’. With empty store space still available in the ‘food-court’ end of ‘Riverside Square’, we surely have not seen the last of the ‘chain invasion’.

I don't think it's very fair to offer a full-fledged review of a restaurant based upon one visit. Especially when the reason for said visit is for the sole purpose of giving the wait staff and kitchen a 'practice run'. However, much insight can be gleaned about the general expectations, the philosophy and the goals of a given restaurant.

Both of these restaurants break with the annoying habit of not taking dinner reservations practiced by many of the chains. This refreshing policy scores points right off the bat and is sure to bite into the customer base of “Houston’s” and “The Cheesecake Factory”. Forcing, one hopes, a reexamination of the continued use this selfishly rude policy. The dining rooms of both “Morton’s” and “McCormick & Schmick’s” reflect the major Ducats that were spent. Both exude a warm comfortable clubby feel. “Morton’s” use of dark woods and beige muted tones that spell *Steakhouse* and “McCormick & Schmick’s” use of green and lighter woods with a Mission style motif. Perhaps, reflecting the chains west coast origins.

Lunch at “Morton’s”:

This was a very well organized affair. We called the reservation number as instructed and made a reservation for four. It was good that we showed up as a two as that was the number that they had us for when we arrived for lunch. We were promptly shown to our table and offered menus. The format was that lunch was pre-selected for us: two Caesar Salads, Crab Cakes, Warm Steak Salad, and Raspberries Sabayon. The bar was open (within limits), single malts were not available. My wife and I both had Berringer Chards (three for each of us). The signature bread was placed on the table (a large round onion challah), very messy to eat. The Caesers were very good. Nice pile of fresh romaine stalks in a dressing flavored quite distinctly with garlic and anchovy. We overlooked the pedestrian croutons and continued to express surprise at the refreshing decision to keep the anchovy flavor in the dressing.

The crab cakes that followed were the best that I’ve ever eaten. The restaurant made a decision to go with the more expensive ‘colossal lump crab meat’ rather than the jumbo lump. Very little bread and no *egg* or *mayonnaise*, this being a style that I prefer. It’s more difficult to cook because of the lack of a binder. But if handled carefully, the results can be spectacular, as these were. The unmemorable mustard sauce and silly hothouse tomatoes couldn’t ruin this dish (although not for lack of trying). My wife’s ‘Warm Steak Salad’ with the archaic sounding ‘Oriental’ dressing was every bit the menu afterthought that it sounds. Edible but skippable.

Sides of baked potato had us in awe. These must have been Idaho 40s. They were so huge that we thought we were the recipients of some ones 4H project. Sour cream was frenched by a waiter and wasn’t nearly enough given the size of the potato. Desert was a handful of raspberries all arranged standing up in a small oval dish with a cold piped flower of something sweetish with the color of butter and the consistency of Cool Whip. I would have preferred the Cool Whip.

Service was excellent, but as it’s a dry run, the place was overstaffed and everyone was trying very hard. We did not get to try any of the big steak dishes for which this restaurant is known. The place is PRICEY!! Bring Money. Value? I don’t know. I’m curious as to how other people feel after “Morton’s” completes its shakedown.

Lunch at “McCormick & Schmicks”

The dining experience at McCormick & Schmicks was very pleasant. The wood floors and open kitchen and shellfish display offer an inviting visual overture before the meal. The format was different for this meal. Here we were offered practically the run of the menu. We had to pay for drinks and as at “Morton’s” were expected to tip the waiter based on the price of the meal. We were seated in a crowded dining room and our drink orders were taken. Bass Ale for me, and Kendall Jackson Chard for my wife. I started with Conch Fritters with Key Lime Dijon Sauce. My wife had the Coconut Shrimp with an orange Horseradish marmalade. I was expecting pieces of conch battered and fried. What I got was an enormous portion of bread balls with some spice and pimento. The Key lime mustard mayo, served on the side was quite good. My wife’s large portion of shrimp was about U21-25 in size and were battered and fried. Not much coconut flavor and the sweet marmalade didn’t do much to lift this dish. In fact the Key Lime Mustard Mayo that accompanied the Conch worked pretty well with the shrimp. I note here no appetizer on the large menu costs more than $10.00. Terrific value, IMO.

For main courses: my wife had the Cashew Crusted Black grouper with Jamaican Rum Butter. Overcooked with a sweet beurre blanc and accompanied by desultory but tasty mashed potatoes and noticeably well-cooked and flavorful asparagus.

My Lobster Roll with French Fries and Cole Slaw was marred by a poor ‘roll to lobster’ ratio, and although the waitress waxed rhapsodic over the lobster salad; I found the lobster to be stringy and overly shredded, having a canned lobster meat taste and feel to it. The French Fries, although fresh cut, were extremely limp and soggy, suffering from not being blanched

Desserts were quite good and were ample, in keeping with the large portion philosophy. Crème Brulee was classic, and serviceable. My Upside Down Apple Pie with Cinnamon Ice Cream was homey and tasty.

The menu lists seven varieties of oysters and says that their menus are printed twice daily. Along the top of the menu is a listing of the day’s market fresh fish. The menu is large and reasonably priced. This restaurant is obviously looking to eat some of “Legal Sea Foods” lunch. They may succeed.

Thanks for listening

Nick

[ngatti]

The post is complete with both restaurant descriptions having been posted

Thanks

Nick

[Rosie]

McCormick & Schmick’s takes reservations--actually encourages you to make them. I will have a story on Table Hopping With Rosie 10/9.

[tommy]

"great review," nick. i've "been wondering" about these places and have been looking 'foward' to you reporting back. *brilliant* *use* of quotes, i might "add."

[tommy]

McCormick & Schmick’s takes reservations--actually encourages you to make them. I will have a story on Table Hopping With Rosie 10/9.

to clarify, both morton's and M&S's take reservations.

[TheBoatMan]

Great review, what detail! Thanks. I probably would not dine at Morton's in NJ only because I think there are better choices for steak around. I know by Tommy's frequent posts he doesnt agree but I still believe The River Palm is the best for steak in NJ. When on business and not familiar with the area I have eaten at Morton's on many occasions, they offer consistently good steak, albeit way overpriced.

[Gavin Jones]

Sour cream was frenched by a waiter

I'd be grateful if someone could explain this phrase to me?

[Rachel Perlow]

I think that means that, upon delivering the potato, the server asked, "would you like sour cream on your potato?" Upon receiving approval, he places a blob of sour cream on said potato.

This is in contrast to the more common options of 1) being asked upon ordering if you would like sour cream and said sour cream being already on the potato when it is delivered to the table; or 2) being given a small ramiken of sour cream on the side of your potato to use as desired.

[TheBoatMan]

Not positive but think it may mean the sour cream was added to the table after the potatos were served.

[tommy]

I know by Tommy's frequent posts he doesnt agree but I still believe The River Palm is the best for steak in NJ.

well, RPT probably one of the top 3 in northern NJ. i just happen to enjoy frankie and johnnies better overall. however, none can compare with the top steakhouses in NYC imho, and that's the benchmark that i'm (perhaps unfairly) using.

[tommy]

Not positive but think it may mean the sour cream was added to the table after the potatos were served.

i'm guessing it means the potatoes were split and had the sour cream applied by the waiter on the table. if that's the case, i'm not sure that it's a service aspect that i would even want.

let's see what nick has to say.

[Suzanne F]

So Morton's doesn't do the whole dog-and-pony show at lunch? Oh ... maybe that's not the best way to describe it Anyway, none of that waving a slab of meat at you? That's a relief.

I have an article somewhere that talked about how Morton's is the upscale version of McDonalds, in the sense that they have very detailed purchasing and cooking specs, and everything has to be exactly the same at all of their stores. So that no matter where you are in the country/world, your Morton's meal will always be the same. Supposed to be very comforting to the tired business-person.

[dodge621]

[i know by Tommy's frequent posts he doesnt agree but I still believe The River Palm is the best for steak in NJ. ]

While Tommy is certainly a conneiseur of fine foods, we all cannot have the same favorites unless we clone Tommy.

[TheBoatMan]

Anyway, none of that waving a slab of meat at you?  That's a relief.

Or the comatose lobster!

I went to the Morton's in Orlando once when I was on business. Told the guy I've seen the "presentation of meat, etc" many times and asked him to skip it. Said he'd get in trouble if he didnt do it. Go figure.

[tommy]

Told the guy I've seen the "presentation of meat, etc" many times and asked him to skip it.  Said he'd get in trouble if he didnt do it.  Go figure.

this is most likely an important part of their approach, which is to remain consistent and take any variables out of the equation. once you start leaving it up to the customer, you are opening up an opportunity for the service staff to decide on their own, and then you have problems. remove all variables.

then again, is it really necessary?

[Liza]

Hmm. The Food Lover's Companion states:

"french, to: 1. To cut a vegetable or meat lengthwise into very thin strips. Beans and potatoes are two vegetables that are commonly "frenched". 2. To cut the meat away from the end of a rib or chop, so that part of the bone is exposed."

[ngatti]

Sorry folks,

I was using the term "frenched" as chefspeak slang for the waiter actually serving the sour cream tableside. It's a common term, probably not used much outside a catering environment.

Nick

[tommy]

I was using the term "frenched" as chefspeak slang for the waiter actually serving the sour cream tableside.

oh. *that* clears it up.

huh? you mean he brought it out? spooned it out? pooped it out? still 'fused.

[Rachel Perlow]

Yes, you must speak v e r y slowly to tommy. He 'fuses easily.

[ngatti]

1:The potato was served.

2:Waiter approaches table with a spoon and a large bowl of sour cream on a tray.

3: He asks the diners if they would like sour cream

4: If affirmative he spoons it on the potato

5: if negative he leaves the table.

'effin' programmers. Evrythings an 'effin' algorithm with you guys. Can't just say it, gotta be pseudocode.

Nick

[Rachel Perlow]

Format error.

I've edited your code below:

start
1: potato served
2: Query "Sour Cream?" Y/N
3: If Y then spoon sour cream on potato
4: If N then exit
end

Now I'm sure someone will point out my formatting errors. Keep in mind I haven't programmed in about 12 years.

[Rosie]

Legal Seafoods does not take reservations

Morton's still presents their meat to the customer with a detailed explanation about each piece.

[tommy]

if "N", the waiter must check the rest of the guests who have potatoes. at least to me it seems that way. so leaving the table is not part of that conditional.

also, the conditional of "is that enough" should be included, or else it really isn't effecient. sour cream on potato is *not* a boolean operation.

[ngatti]

if "N", the waiter must check the rest of the guests who have potatoes.  at least to me it seems that way.  so leaving the table is not part of that conditional.

also, the conditional of "is that enough" should be included, or else it really isn't effecient.  sour cream on potato is *not* a boolean operation.

if, then, else

Nick

[dodge621]

[1:The potato was served.

2:Waiter approaches table with a spoon and a large bowl of sour cream on a tray.

3: He asks the diners if they would like sour cream

4: If affirmative he spoons it on the potato

5: if negative he leaves the table.]

- why not just put the sour cream in a small dish for each person.

If I am affirmative to #4 and then later want some more sour cream as it must be a big potato, then I have to get the waiter to french some more sour cream over. Seems like a hassle just for sour cream.

- Also what if I dare want ketchup on my potato