Is the Entree (eg US Main) Heading for Extinction?

[John Talbott]

The NYT Dining Section yesterday, articles now free, published an article entitled "Is the Entree Heading for Extinction?" by Kim Severson, giving as reasons - a shift from big protein-laden mains to salads, sides and appetizers, small plates and "tapafication," "mix and matching." Severson also quotes Gael Greene saying that "By the time she and her dining companions have ordered everything they want to try from other parts of the menu, they’re too full for a main course."

It can't happen here, or can it? Certainly we've seen a proliferation of wine bars plus (think Racines), small plate (mezza) places (think l' Atelier de JR) and tapas (think Afaria). However, in general, I do think in France the portion size is more sensible and will mitigate against the "extinction" of the entree. Every time I come back to the US and go out for the first time, I have to stop myself from ordering an appetizer and main, since I know I'll never finish the main; thus two appetizers work better.

Your thoughts?

[nibor]

Even when eating out in Europe I found that my younger European friends would often order only appetizers and skip the main. They asked me how Americans can eat so much, and why we would want to...

[julot-les-pinceaux]

I agree with that. Fresh, quality ingredients and precise cooking are making their way in the American culture, but reasonable portions still have to. Except of course in Connecticut.

[Felice]

I always order 2 if not 3 course when dining in a restaurant in France and would feel a bit cheated if I didn't. If I feel like something lighter I will go to a place that only serves small plates like Da Rosa, Cremerie, le Passage, etc...

[pierre45]

The NYT Dining Section yesterday, articles now free, published an article entitled "Is the Entree Heading for Extinction?" by Kim Severson, giving as reasons - a shift from big protein-laden mains to salads, sides and appetizers, small plates and "tapafication," "mix and matching." Severson also quotes Gael Greene saying that "By the time she and her dining companions have ordered everything they want to try from other parts of the menu, they’re too full for a main course."

It can't happen here, or can it?  Certainly we've seen a proliferation of wine bars plus (think Racines), small plate (mezza) places (think l' Atelier de JR) and tapas (think Afaria).   However, in general, I do think in France the portion size is more sensible and will mitigate against the "extinction" of the entree. Every time I come back to the US and go out for the first time, I have to stop myself from ordering an appetizer and main, since I know I'll never finish the main; thus two appetizers work better.

Your thoughts?

←

Many of the new restaurants are informal ,provide offerings that emphasis multiple dishes(tapas or mezzas) and interesting wine lists.

Here are some examples.Le vngt 2, afaria, le crystal de sel,les finesgueule,racines amongst the bistrot universe and in the grand restaurant category as you said l'atelier ,plus of course senderens and Drouant.Actually sensing also offers tapas choices.I beleive this trend started in france and now is having an influence in the US .It does not mean its the end of le plat principal ,its just another option ,which always existed in the mediteranean countries such as spain and the middle east.

Edited December 20, 2007 by pierre45 (log)

[John Talbott]

Even when eating out in Europe I found that my younger European friends would often order only appetizers and skip the main.  They asked me how Americans can eat so much, and why we would want to...

←

My hunch is that Americans think big is better, see "Supersize Me" and sizes of drinks in movie houses and I've heard horror stories from waiters about nasty complaints that folks weren't served big enough portions whereas I think the French judge a good meal more on quality, product, cooking, etc. All this is steoreotyping, no doubt, but may like all stereotypes have a grain of truth therein.

[Margaret Pilgrim]

Although we have to stop and remind ourselves to do so, ordering several entrees (starters) is for us the way to go. We also find that many chef's best efforts are often found at the top of the menu. Even when the quality of the fish, poultry or meat is obvious, there is often a fall-off of creativity among the main plates. IMHO.

[Ptipois]

It is quite common to order only a main course. The "plat principal" is not ready to disappear in France.

[julot-les-pinceaux]

Although we have to stop and remind ourselves to do so, ordering several entrees (starters) is for us the way to go.  We also find that many chef's best efforts are often found at the top of the menu. Even when the quality of the fish, poultry or meat is obvious, there is often a fall-off of creativity among the main plates.  IMHO.

←

I feel that way too. In many restaurants, first courses are exciting and mains not nearly as much. I wonder why that is, but I often thought that the mandatory structure of roast+vegetables had still some pregnance which maybe explained that.

[Busboy]

I'm not certain that I'm ready to accept the fact that French meals are that much more dainty than American meals. Admittedly, my time there has been limited (and mostly in the South, if that makes any difference) but I generally walk away from a French table quite as stuffed as from an American table. The culprit, if you will, seems to the first courses which are quite often as large as the main courses, especially at those Bib Gourmand restaurants where they seem bent on demonstrating to value-conscious Frenchmen and Michelin reviewers that one can fill up elegantly for only 28 Euros. Neither course is as large, of course, as the stereotypical American main, but the sum of the two courses seems about equal. And then add in a cheese course before dessert, and it's difficult to make a case that French meals are smaller than those in the U.S.

Personally, on either side of the Atlantic I hope the main course holds on -- if there is delight in the creativity assigned these days to first courses, there is also joy in an elegant cut of meat simply prepared. I'll take one (or more) of each, s'il vous plait.

[John Talbott]

I feel that way too. In many restaurants, first courses are exciting and mains not nearly as much. I wonder why that is, but I often thought that the mandatory structure of roast+vegetables had still some pregnance which maybe explained that.

←

Back in the '60's when our foursome started taking food seriously, we were surprised at the number of meals, many at places (such as Bras) much mentioned here, that were U-shaped: great first and dessert, sagging main. If memory serves me, we chalked it up to the youth and daring of the chef(s) at the first and last stations versus the maturity (read stodginess) of the heart of the brigade. Last night we ate out with a couple we'd never eaten with before and the moment menus were distributed we almost simultaneously declared that we were going to order two firsts each and no main.