Notes from a Sunday

[David McDuff]

Some recent tastes on a rainy Sunday. Full write-up with pics here:

http://mcduffwine.blogspot.com/2007/12/not...rom-sunday.html

Champagne “Les Vignes de Vrigny” Premier Cru Brut, Egly-Ouriet NV

“Issu de Vignes de Pinot Meunier situées sur le Terroir de Vrigny”

Aromas of peach and brioche were carried by a brisk, fine mousse. Fresh apricot, clover blossoms, hay and a hint of orange oil unfurled in the mouth. Fruit forward and round, with perfect balance and a long finish. Though not the most elegant Champagne out there, this was damn tasty and represents a solid QPR.

Cour-Cheverny “Cuvée Renaissance,” Le Petit Chambord (François Cazin) 2004

The wine’s sweetness is both forward and graceful, delivering guava, limestone and lemon curd, all cut through by bright acidity. A little whiff of lavender emerged as the wine’s aromas curled up through the sinuses. This is not terribly complex at the moment but is still showing very youthful structure. It should be interesting to revisit in another three to five years.

Cour-Cheverny, Le Petit Chambord (François Cazin) 2006

I’ll be more than happy to make due with Cazin’s regular Cour-Cheverny while waiting for the “Renaissance” to come into its own. The sec cuvée is nervier in feel and more subtly perfumed than its semi-sticky brother. Bananas, golden delicious apples, honeysuckle and acacia all emerged on the nose, supplemented by distinct and racy minerality on the palate.

Coteaux du Loir “Rouge Gorge,” Domaine de Bellivière 2005

This is idiosyncratic juice. Black pepper – unmistakably – jumps from the glass, along with what strikes me as the scent of fresh haricots verts. One of my companions also noted a certain air of the auto shop; I couldn’t argue. Rustic, oddball and absolutely delicious. I’m usually pretty tuned in to alcoholic strength, but the 15% this was packing sneaked right by, a virtue perhaps of its slightly cool serving temperature.

Coteaux du Loir “Hommage à Louis Derré,” Domaine de Bellivière 2005

A more tannic structure than the "Rouge Gorge," bolstered by a bit of oak that lends aromas of baking spices. The black pepper and string beans still come out to play, joined by thyme and black cherries. There’s a bit more nuance, along with deeper concentration, but the alcohol, even though labeled as lower than the “Rouge Gorge,” displays some heat on the finish. Wide-knit tannins provide a seriously mouth wakening charge.

Graves, Château du Grand Bos 1997

I’ve noticed bottle variation with the ’97 Graves from Grand Bos in the past; this bottle fell on the down side of the curve, I’m afraid. I kept thinking there was a background whiff of cork taint but nope, it just wasn’t showing well. Red cassis and a leathery, herbaceous character were all wrapped up in a damp, clay-like sense. I’d hoped this would be a great match with our final course of pan-grilled lamb chops, as a bottle on the up side of the curve should have been. No such luck.

Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru “Les Macherelles” (Rouge), Jean-Marc Pillot 2000

I was taken by surprise by this bottle, not because it didn’t show Chassagne typicity but because it wasn’t nearly as rich and forward in style as earlier vintages of the same wine from Pillot. The 2000 was lively and tight, with dried sour cherry and pronounced sous-bois aromas. Still very solid, even a bit shut down at the moment.

cheers,

David

[Florida Jim]

Nice wines.

Happy Sunday.

Best, Jim