Heritage? Smeritage?

[Dave Hatfield]

Heritage everything seems to be the hot new term in culinary circles. I, however, wonder what is really meant by the term.

Today's NYT had an article on heritage turkey's. Even the champion of the older more flavorsome turkey breeds seemed to dislike the term. We seem to have heritage tomatoes, chickens, apples, ad infinitum.

I expect somebody to introduce me to their heritage spouse any day now.

So, what do we really mean by heritage food products? I think there is or should be a reasonable definition. I would hate to see the term corrupted as 'organic' has been.

My somewhat bumbling definition might be: Animal or vegetable food stuffs grown from long established species in a traditional manner.

That says nothing about the pro's or con's of such produce, nor does it address the implicit 'sense' that heritage produce is 'superior' to non- heritage.

I'd love to see some debate on this. Especially from the food professionals amongst us.

Edited November 7, 2007 by Dave Hatfield (log)

[Chris Amirault]

I think that "heritage" is like "authentic" or "original": it's a marketing term that can be used by anyone for just about anything. I'd distinguish that from "heirloom," which I take to refer to breeds of plants or animals that are not the product of commercial agribusiness and have been passed down because of their characteristics.

[annecros]

I think it is already too late. Siegers Seed Company out of Holland, Michigan is introducing a "New Hybrid Heirloom" in their catalog - "Grandma's Garden."

Click here because you just can't make this stuff up

From the catalog description:

This hybrid heirloom is reminiscent of the old world heritage types.

"Hybrid"

"Heirloom"

"Heritage"

All in one sentence. I think the marketing people should get extra points for working the term "old word" in there.

This is a commercial seed source, so look for "Grandma's Garden" at the Farmer's Market soon.

[feedmec00kies]

I think that when it comes to marketing, all bets are off. In a "Culture and Consumerism" class in college, we looked at mail-order catalogs and how they try and sell things. It pretty much comes down to one or more of the following tactics, as outlined by some anthropologist that I don't remember:

1. establishing a product's "history" and "origins" in order to vouch for its quality

2. depicting the people who work at the company as individuals with a concern and interest for/in you

3. framing things within "gift"-giving, such as how they purportedly give a product to those they care about because of any number of concerns for their happiness and wellbeing

The heritage/authentic/original/heirloom/give-me-a-break-this-is-BS thing really fits in with tactic #1 in particular. Maybe the term meant something when it was first introduced, but now it's hard to distill the honest use of the term from all the hot air surrounding it.

[TAPrice]

I always assumed that heritage meant a breed that fell out of commercial use. Can heritage be applied to fruits and vegetables, or just animals?

And yes, I've probably been brainwashed by the mighty machine of commerce.

[Jensen]

For me, one of the key characteristics of heirloom fruits/vegetables is their ability to propogate. If I were to save the seeds from an heirloom tomato, I should be able to plant them and grow a plant which would produce the same fruit.

Heritage? That term doesn't really mean much to me. Having read "Animal, Vegetable, Miracle", I did immediately wonder if "heritage turkeys" were able to have sex though.

[Katie Meadow]

Howdy, Jensen. You have sound instincts. The breeder's definition of a Heritage turkey in the above mentioned NYT article includes the ability of the turkeys to propagate naturally.

Now would be a good time for a geneticist to step into this discussion and shed some light on whether or not there is a proper usage for the terms "Heritage" and "Heirloom" as used in today's food production. Common sense suggests that these terms should derive their use from the original meaning of the words.

Heritage is used mainly with respect to humans, and refers to a birthright, and so implies a genetic relationship.

Heirloom is most commonly used to refer to objects that belong to those humans and which are passed down through generations. Perhaps "Heritage" is a better term for those older types of tomatoes--but too late now.

[Mallet]

I always assumed that heritage meant a breed that fell out of commercial use. Can heritage be applied to fruits and vegetables, or just animals?

And yes, I've probably been brainwashed by the mighty machine of commerce.

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I've *mostly* seen heritage refer to animals and heirloom refer to plants, but I don't think there is a widely accepted convention.