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Gumbo


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7 minutes ago, MaryIsobel said:

True, but where I live, neither file or okra are easy to find! I did buy file in New Orleans when I was there but it's long since gone and I am not a big fan of okra. You do what you gotta do.

 

I understand, on both counts. Especially okra, the taste for which I have yet to acquire. I was just trying, without personal conviction, to promote the traditional solution to the problem.

Dave Scantland
Executive director
dscantland@eGstaff.org
eG Ethics signatory

Eat more chicken skin.

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  • 1 month later...

Gumbo is once again on my mind. Last time I made it, I made a double order of dark roux and refrigerated it. A layer of oil separated above the roux.

 

Should I try to fold this oil back into the rue or discard it and keep the rue proper?

Edited by billyhill
A plethora of spelling orders. (log)
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Last time I made gumbo, it was my best ever and I attribute that to having made the (oven) roux ahead of time and refrigerating it, since I was traveling about 4 hours before I could complete the gumbo at my sister's house. I didn't have an oil separation issue.

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1 hour ago, billyhill said:

That is what concerns me.

I googled a bunch about it, since when I make gumbo, it is an investment of time and money. Apparently the darker the roux, the more chance of it breaking. Not quoting any sources because I don't know how trustworthy they are but seems like it happens and doesn't bother a lot of people. On that note, I often make gumbo a day ahead (minus the shrimp.) It gets better sitting in the fridge overnight.

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You don't have to search very far to find oven-baked "roux," where the flour is cooked, by itself, in a low oven for a long time. It works fine, it gives you most of the flavor you need, it's hard to screw up, AND IT TAKES FOREVER. That's because air is not as good a conductor of heat as fat is.

 

So, the oven method is very controllable, at the expense of time. If we want to speed things up, we have to introduce a liquid that can exceed the temperature at which starch browns. That mean water is out, because it will just boil away at the requisite temperature. Let's use fat -- butter or oil. 

 

The fat conducts heat into the starch much more efficiently. Once it's been combined properly, it also keeps each granule of starch separated from every other granule (please disregard the fact that wouldn't be necessary if we weren't introducing a liquid like oil or melted butter). Since it's a fat, it probably picks up a flavor note or two -- it might even have some flavor of its own. 

 

This is a proper roux, as classically defined: fat and starch combined for purposes of flavor and thickening. Most of the flavor is in the starch, though. Once the fat has done its job by protecting the starch, can't we just discard it?

 

Yes, yes we can. You should realize though, that if you don't stir that fat back in, it's not a roux any more. It's just browned flour.

 

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Dave Scantland
Executive director
dscantland@eGstaff.org
eG Ethics signatory

Eat more chicken skin.

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