A Local Sushi Shop in Niigata

[shinju]

Beautiful looking sushi and sashimi Hiroyuki. There is no question about the freshness - you can see the moisture glistening from all the pieces unlike some water sprayed pictures shown in cooking magazines and cookbooks.

And I am so envious! Prices are extremely reasonable too.

[Hiroyuki]

Out of curiosity, do they happen to serve some of the lesser well known cuts of maguro such as sunazuri and i think the other is called...hireshita?

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I never know. Such items can never be put on the menu, and if you explicitly tell the chef that you want to have them and he happens to have them (and if you are a regular or an important person to the sushi shop), the chef may offer them to you, right?

As for me, I think I was lucky to have succeeded in making the chef offer me "harami" (belly), i.e., fatty part of hiramasa on my fourth visit there. Harami isn't on the menu, and I think it is something I would never have gotten if I wouldn't have asked the chef to do omakase.

[Hiroyuki]

Beautiful looking sushi and sashimi Hiroyuki.    There is no question about the freshness - you can see the moisture glistening from all the pieces unlike some water sprayed pictures shown in cooking magazines and cookbooks. 

And I am so envious!  Prices are extremely reasonable too.

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Extremely reasonable? It was 9,450 yen not 945 yen, is that clear?

This time, I was so eager to try all the white fish caught off Sado Island that I decided to be a little extravagant. That's why I asked the chef to do omakase. I could have spent 5,000 yen for my dinner and still have a wonderful dinner if I had stuck to the same old neta like maguro and ikura, but I really didn't want to do that. The result is the high price, but I'm very satisified with my dinner and I have no regret.

One more thing: I would never dream of doing the same thing in a top-notch traditional sushi shop in Tokyo. If I did, the bill would amount to 20,000 yen or even more.

[Hiroyuki]

All the white fish sashimi and sushi were memorable enough, but I was impressed the most by the katsuo sashimi. It was katsuo tataki (seared bonito). When I put a slice in my mouth, it was just wonderful. I thought it was seasoned in some magical way because it was so delicious. Later I said to the chef, "The bonito was delicious. How was it seasoned?" The chef replied that it was seasoned with salt. OK, no magic but simply salt! But he told me about his way of making tataki. Usually, bonito is first seared and then soaked in cold iced water. But the chef does not do the soaking. He simply puts the seared bonito in the fridge so the surface remains crisp. I'd like to try his recipe some day.

[shinju]

Beautiful looking sushi and sashimi Hiroyuki.    There is no question about the freshness - you can see the moisture glistening from all the pieces unlike some water sprayed pictures shown in cooking magazines and cookbooks. 

And I am so envious!  Prices are extremely reasonable too.

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Extremely reasonable? It was 9,450 yen not 945 yen, is that clear?

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yes, very or extremely reasonable compared to what you may pay in Bay Area CA for the same quality and style.

[rykomatsu]

yes, very or extremely reasonable compared to what you may pay in Bay Area CA for the same quality and style.

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This isn't meant to be offensive, but I find it hard to believe that you would be able to find similar quality in the bay area; style yes, but quality? I know this is somewhat of a blanket statement, but with the experiences with sushi I've had in Japan, I have yet to find a sushi bar that matches that of Japan. Kabuto came close, but you can really tell the differences in the way Kohada is prepared. One of the itamae that I talked with in Japan mentioned that Kohada is very difficult to prepare as it is very delicate in flavouring; most places use too much vinegar which can become overpowering and if not prepared properly, will also have a gamey scent/odour...and the places I've been to in the Bay Area that do serve kohada I can say with certainty that it wasn't prepared well (I usually use this as the first evaluation of a sushi bar when it's available).

Add to that, still moving octopus? can't get much fresher than that

[Hiroyuki]

but you can really tell the differences in the way Kohada is prepared.  One of the itamae that I talked with in Japan mentioned that Kohada is very difficult to prepare as it is very delicate in flavouring;  most places use too much vinegar which can become overpowering and if not prepared properly, will also have a gamey scent/odour...and the places I've been to in the Bay Area that do serve kohada I can say with certainty that it wasn't prepared well (I usually use this as the first evaluation of a sushi bar when it's available).

Add to that, still moving octopus?  can't get much fresher than that

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That's exactly the reason why I ordered kohada among others. Akagai (ark shell) also requires careful "shigoto", so does shime saba (vinegar-pickled mackerel). Besides, omakase is a good way to check the culinary skills of a chef.

BTW, I found this passage here in Wikipedia

The traditional sushi shop has its own special language, such as using murasaki (meaning "purple") for soy sauce instead of the usual word, shoyu. Sushi chefs were said to treat customers better if they knew the correct jargon. One of the reasons why conveyor-belt sushi has become successful is said to be that there is no need to learn the special words and culture of the traditional sushi shop.

This is ridiculous. Such words as murasaki, agari (tea), and oaiso (check), collectively known as fucho (符丁) or ingo (隠語), are for use by those behind the counter (chef, servers, and so on), and those sitting at the counter (customers) should not use them. Note, however, that some of these terms, such as neta and shari, have become so commonplace that I use them without hesitation when I talk to a sushi chef.

Thus, I think it is recommended to use those fucho sparingly and tentatively. The counter is not a place where you show off your knowledge of sushi but show your interest in it. Be a good questioner and listener, and the chef will appreciate your attitude. Don't "pretend to be a connoisseur" ("tsuu buru" in Japanese).

[Hiroyuki]

I'm sure some of you want to know the breakdown of the price of the dinner. So, here it is:

Kohada: 150 yen

Akagai: 400

Uni: 500

O-toro: 600

Chu-toro: 400

Tamago: 100

Okosama sushi set: 840 x 2 = 1,680

Yakitori: 525 (3 skewers) x 2 = 1,050

Subtotal: 4,880

Total (9,450) - Subtotal = 4,570

I didn't ask the prices of the omakase sashimi and the omakase sushi (6 pieces).

My guess is that:

3,000 yen for sashimi

1,500 yen for sushi (250 yen per piece on average)

Sounds reasonable?

I'm thinking of another dinner. Next time, I want to have livers of filefish and matou dai. I'll ask the chef if he is willing to comply with my request.

This thread will continue to bring you all the fascinating fish and seafood caught in the Sea of Japan!

[prasantrin]

Extremely reasonable?     It was 9,450 yen not 945 yen, is that clear?

If that included the cost of your children's meals, and the yakitori, then I would say that is very reasonable. If only I could find good quality sashimi and sushi for that price in the Kansai area!

One more thing:  I would never dream of doing the same thing in a top-notch traditional sushi shop in Tokyo.  If I did, the bill would amount to 20,000 yen or even more.

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The last time I had sushi, I only had 6 pieces in total, and our bill came to about Y2600 each. I didn't order anything unusual, but apparently all my favourite sushi are expensive ones (ikura, uni, anago, hotate, toro, and kampachi--I don't really like kampachi, but my friend wanted it).

Are you familiar enough with fish caught around the Kansai area to suggest some unusual ones to order the next time I have sushi? This particular shop doesn't have a menu, and he only has whatever is in his little display case (the shop is teeny tiny, so the display case is even teenier tinier). And you can't say, "Omakase" at this shop. You have to actually choose what you want.

[Hiroyuki]

Extremely reasonable?     It was 9,450 yen not 945 yen, is that clear?

If that included the cost of your children's meals, and the yakitori, then I would say that is very reasonable. If only I could find good quality sashimi and sushi for that price in the Kansai area!

One more thing:  I would never dream of doing the same thing in a top-notch traditional sushi shop in Tokyo.  If I did, the bill would amount to 20,000 yen or even more.

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The last time I had sushi, I only had 6 pieces in total, and our bill came to about Y2600 each. I didn't order anything unusual, but apparently all my favourite sushi are expensive ones (ikura, uni, anago, hotate, toro, and kampachi--I don't really like kampachi, but my friend wanted it).

Are you familiar enough with fish caught around the Kansai area to suggest some unusual ones to order the next time I have sushi? This particular shop doesn't have a menu, and he only has whatever is in his little display case (the shop is teeny tiny, so the display case is even teenier tinier). And you can't say, "Omakase" at this shop. You have to actually choose what you want.

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I don't want to sound offensive, but in all my honesty, what is the point of going to that sushi shop when they don't accept omakase requests? You mean they don't even have nami, chu, jou, and tokujo or matsu, take, and ume? How can such a traditional sushi shop survive in Osaka, which is well known for being a place of "kuidaore"? (OK, you don't have to answer to my questions.)

About your question about unusual ones, I can suggest kijihata (red-spotted grouper) for now. It's called akou in Kansai (probably you know more about the fish than I do) and is highly valued there. And, of course, all the white fish you happen to find in the display case.

[prasantrin]

I don't want to sound offensive, but in all my honesty, what is the point of going to that sushi shop when they don't accept omakase requests?  You mean they don't even have nami, chu, jou, and tokujo or matsu, take, and ume?  How can such a traditional sushi shop survive in Osaka, which is well known for being a place of "kuidaore"?  (OK, you don't have to answer to my questions.)

I know your questions were rhetorical, but I'll give them a go, anyway.

I don't really care for sushi. I don't mind it, but I don't particularly like it. I find most places, even places that are expensive and therefore considered "good", use rice that's too sweet, too sour, or too mushy for my liking. And when I eat sushi, I like to taste the fish, so I rarely use soy sauce when I eat sushi, and I certainly don't add additional wasabi. A lot of places use too much wasabi in their nigiri for my liking.

This place has perfect rice, and they don't even offer you soy sauce. Each piece is personally seasoned by the itamae, with a light brushing of soy, or a squeeze of sudachi or some other lime-like citrus fruit, and a sprinkling of salt. He uses just the right amount of wasabi for each fish--not too much to overpower the fish, but just enough to heighten the flavours.

I think he can't really do omakase because he only has whatever is freshest or at its best, so the choices are limited to begin with. As far as I could tell, there isn't even a whiteboard or chalkboard with the available fish written on it. Which in a way is good, because then you really have to communicate with the itamae and you have more of a chance to get to know about the fish, what's in season, etc. But it's also bad if you don't speak Japanese that well! The itamae and his wife are very friendly and patient, though, so I still enjoyed my dinner there (except for the cockroach that landed on my arm).

And this place has not only managed to survive with its 10 or so seats, in Osaka land of "kuidaore", but it has survived for longer than I've been alive! I think...I can't really read that well, but I see a Showa 43 in there, and I was born after that.

From Gourmet Walker

旬の珍しいネタが

低価格でそろう老舗

阪急梅田駅からすぐの立地条件で昭和43年から商売を続けている老舗。2週間かけて昆布ジメにしたサバなどの光モノや淡路産のアナゴ、明石のタコなど定番から旬のネタまで約25種がそろう。仕入れによって値段は変わるが、良心的な価格なので気軽にいこう。

About your question about unusual ones, I can suggest kijihata (red-spotted grouper) for now.  It's called akou in Kansai (probably you know more about the fish than I do) and is highly valued there.  And, of course, all the white fish you happen to find in the display case.

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Thanks! I'll ask for kijihata/akou next time. I actually don't know very many names of fish--in either Japanese or English! My excuse is that I'm from Winnipeg, and we don't have very many varieties of fish out there! Next time I'm going to sit in front of the case (which means I'll have to get there early!), so I can just point at things that interest me. And I'll write down some of the fish you had, so I can ask if he has them, too.

[shinju]

Extremely reasonable?     It was 9,450 yen not 945 yen, is that clear?

If that included the cost of your children's meals, and the yakitori, then I would say that is very reasonable. If only I could find good quality sashimi and sushi for that price in the Kansai area!

Hi Rona, yes, I thought the bill included all other dishes. No?

But, it's still good price. And abalone too.

[Hiroyuki]

I remembered. Rona was referring to this sushi shop:

I had really amazing sushi tonight at Koyoshi Sushi. I think it's one of the places Anthony Bourdain has featured on his show (but I don't think I ever saw that episode). It's a teeny tiny place, with only 11 seats, and barely enough room to turn around (for example, I was sitting at the end of the counter, and I couldn't get up to leave until my friend left, first, because it was just too tight a fit to get out).

The rice at Koyoshi is perfectly cooked and seasoned--not mushy at all, and not too sweet or too sour like at almost every other place I've been to. He doesn't provide soy sauce for dipping, but he dresses each piece of sushi personally, either with sudachi (or some other kind of lime-looking thing), a brush of soy sauce, or just salt (or sometimes the salt and sudachi). The anago is freshly grilled (just before it's served to you), and has the tare is perfect.

I was with a friend, and we had toro, kampachi, anago, uni, ikura, and hotate. For the two of us, the bill came to Y5500. Is that a lot? I don't often eat sushi, so I'm not familiar with prices.

It was a perfect meal.

Well, perfect except for the cockroach that landed on my arm right before we left...

from here.

Shinju, are you referring to my dinner? 9,450 yen included everything.

The only regret is that I went there by car so I was unable to have that wonderful sashimi with sake...

[shinju]

showtopic=5369&view=findpost&p=1473196]here.

Shinju, are you referring to my dinner? 9,450 yen included everything.

The only regret is that I went there by car so I was unable to have that wonderful sashimi with sake...

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[Hiroyuki]

My fifth visit to the sushi shop (four visits at lunchtime and one at dinnertime so far).

One of the features of this family-run traditional sushi shop is that they employ a "meiro kaikei" 明朗会計 (roughly, clear accounting or payment) system, not a "jika" 時価 (current price, market price) system:

In other words, the price of each type of nigiri is clearly indicated on the board. And, that means you don't have to worry too much about the cost of your meal.

A poster on the wall:

The sushi shop is located near Urasa Station on Joetsu Line and Joetsu Shinkansen, and is also near the International University of Japan. This poster may be useful to non-Japanese customers. But, okamisan (chef's wife) has created an English menu, full of photos.

I first ordered chirashi (shown upthread). The chef usually doesn't accept nigiri requests at lunchtime, but I asked him to make some nirigi. I have developed quite a liking for shiromi (white fish, white-fleshed fish), thanks to the chef, so I ordered kijihata (red-spotted grouper), as well as kohada (gizzard shad).

The green stuff around the kohada nigiri is a strip of ooba or aojiso (green perilla leaf). Gari (pickled ginger) is placed between the kohada and the shari (vinegared rice). The chef says that kohada goes very well with gari.

I'm thinking of going there again next week or the week after next. The chef said that kan buri (adult yellowtail caught in winter) would arrive soon!

Edited to add some more comments.

Edited November 7, 2007 by Hiroyuki (log)

[milgwimper]

My fifth visit to the sushi shop (four visits at lunchtime and one at dinnertime so far).

One of the features of this family-run traditional sushi shop is that they employ a "meiro kaikei" ???? (roughly, clear accounting or payment) system, not a "jika" ?? (current price, market price) system:

In other words, the price of each type of nigiri is clearly indicated on the board. And, that means you don't have to worry too much about the cost of your meal.

A poster on the wall:

The sushi shop is located near Urasa Station on Joetsu Line and Joetsu Shinkansen, and is also near the International University of Japan. This poster may be useful to non-Japanese customers. But, okamisan (chef's wife) has created an English menu, full of photos.

I first ordered chirashi (shown upthread). The chef usually doesn't accept nigiri requests at lunchtime, but I asked him to make some nirigi. I have developed quite a liking for shiromi (white fish, white-fleshed fish), thanks to the chef, so I ordered kijihata (red-spotted grouper), as well as kohada (gizzard shad).

The green stuff around the kohada nigiri is a strip of ooba or aojiso (green perilla leaf). Gari (pickled ginger) is placed between the kohada and the shari (vinegared rice). The chef says that kohada goes very well with gari.

I'm thinking of going there again next week or the week after next. The chef said that kan buri (adult yellowtail caught in winter) would arrive soon!

Edited to add some more comments.

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[/quote

Hiroyuki both nigiri look quite appetizing. How did they taste, was the Kijihata somewhat fatty? I have no idea as I have never tasted them. I wish I could reach through the screen and take a taste.

[Hiroyuki]

Hiroyuki both nigiri look quite appetizing. How did they taste, was the Kijihata somewhat fatty? I have no idea as I have never tasted them. I wish I could reach through the screen and take a taste.

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Hi, milgwimper, have you found a nice sushi restaurant in your area?

The kohada had a right level of saltiness and sourness, and you might call it fishy. Kohada is considered an essential neta (topping) for edomae zushi (edo style sushi).

Kohada (gizzard shad) are relatively cheap, but they are almost inedible whether grilled or simmered because of their numerous fine bones. Sushi chefs turn them into tasty neta (toppings) with their utmost skills. In fact, you can tell a lot about a sushi chef by looking at his kohada.

The kijihata (white-fleshed fish) was tender and had a subtle flavor. It's not fatty. It's assari (opposite of fatty)! When fresh, kijihata is rather tough and is good as sashimi but not as sushi neta. I'm not sure if you can have kijihata nigiri in a traditional sushi shop in Tokyo.

[rykomatsu]

The kohada had a right level of saltiness and sourness, and you might call it fishy.  Kohada is considered an essential neta (topping) for edomae zushi (edo style sushi).

Kohada (gizzard shad) are relatively cheap, but they are almost inedible whether grilled or simmered because of their numerous fine bones.  Sushi chefs turn them into tasty neta (toppings) with their utmost skills.  In fact, you can tell a lot about a sushi chef by looking at his kohada.

Was the kohada suzuke? or are there other ways of preparing it for sushi neta? Admittedly, all the kohada I've had have typically been too sour from the overuse of vinegar

[Hiroyuki]

I went there for lunch today.

I asked the chef what the white fish was today. He replied, "Ainame".

This is the 1,050 yen nigiri zushi lunch set, the same one as that my son had the other day. As I said, this included salad, miso soup (with nanban ebi heads often used for dashi), chawan mushi, and a coffee.

I asked the chef to make these:

Left to right:

Nodoguro: 300 yen

Hiramasa: 250 yen

Mebaru: 200 yen

Shime saba: 150 yen

I'll add more comments later and answer questions later. I have to finish my job first.

Edited to add:

Ainame: Greenling, Hexagrammos otakii

Nodoguro (aka akamutsu): Black throat, Doederleinia berycoides

Nodoguro is often referred to as "shiromi zakana no toro" (fatty white fish). I didn't find the nodoguro shown in the photo as fatty as fatty tuna. The hiramasa was much fattier than the nodoguro. The chef said the hiramasa slice was near the belly (harami).

Hiramasa: Flat amberjack, gold-striped amberjack

Mebaru: Rock fish

Shime saba: Vinegar-pickled mackerel.

Edited again to include price information.

Edited November 9, 2007 by Hiroyuki (log)

[Hiroyuki]

Hiroyuki,

You need never consider it a mistake to start eating before taking pictures.  Enthusiasm cancels all sins.

I do like the comments on the white fish.  Being from Vancouver, I appreciate that I've been too obsessed by the stronger, oilier fish and shellfish, and my taste has been highjacked by these muscular brutes.

I found the sashimi (hwae) we had from the East Sea (Sea of Japan) had a beautiul, ethereal flavour, and, as it was on it's own as we ate, quite interesting. 

Did the chef say anything about the size of fish?  I'd been hearing that there's much to be said for smaller fish.

Cheers,

Peter

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I remembered to ask the chef today, and the chef and the okamisan (chef's wife) replied. To summarize, that really depends on the fish. For example, as for tai (sea bream), smaller ones are better. As for ara, for example, big ones are better and more expensive.

If you know any interesting stories about smaller fish, post them here.

[Hiroyuki]

The kohada had a right level of saltiness and sourness, and you might call it fishy.  Kohada is considered an essential neta (topping) for edomae zushi (edo style sushi).

Kohada (gizzard shad) are relatively cheap, but they are almost inedible whether grilled or simmered because of their numerous fine bones.  Sushi chefs turn them into tasty neta (toppings) with their utmost skills.  In fact, you can tell a lot about a sushi chef by looking at his kohada.

Was the kohada suzuke? or are there other ways of preparing it for sushi neta? Admittedly, all the kohada I've had have typically been too sour from the overuse of vinegar

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According to the chef, salt is sprinkled on kohada first, and then the salt is washed away with a special vinegar, and finally the kohada is soaked in a regular vinegar. I don't know what those special and regular vinegars, though.

I don't know of any other way of preparing it.

[prasantrin]

When you want to get the chef's attention, what do you call him? I was really surprised when my friend called the chef, "Otosan." Her husband told her it was OK. Is it? Or is there another way?

[Hiroyuki]

When you want to get the chef's attention, what do you call him?  I was really surprised when my friend called the chef, "Otosan."  Her husband told her it was OK.  Is it?  Or is there another way?

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I would be offended if I were a sushi chef and someone called me "Otosan".

I call the chef "Goshujin" and the chef's wife "Okamisan". I will never call him "Taisho".

[prasantrin]

When you want to get the chef's attention, what do you call him?  I was really surprised when my friend called the chef, "Otosan."  Her husband told her it was OK.  Is it?  Or is there another way?

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I would be offended if I were a sushi chef and someone called me "Otosan".

I call the chef "Goshujin" and the chef's wife "Okamisan". I will never call him "Taisho".

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I'll let her know. Or maybe it's a Kansai thing?

What does "Taisho" mean? I normally just say, "Sumimasen" because I don't know what else to say, and I figure "Sumimasen" is pretty safe!

[Hiroyuki]

When you want to get the chef's attention, what do you call him?  I was really surprised when my friend called the chef, "Otosan."  Her husband told her it was OK.  Is it?  Or is there another way?

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I would be offended if I were a sushi chef and someone called me "Otosan".

I call the chef "Goshujin" and the chef's wife "Okamisan". I will never call him "Taisho".

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I'll let her know. Or maybe it's a Kansai thing?

What does "Taisho" mean? I normally just say, "Sumimasen" because I don't know what else to say, and I figure "Sumimasen" is pretty safe!

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I had this stupid video in mind when I wrote it. "Taisho" means general, boss, and so on.

Warning: Don't believe anything in that stupid video, which is linked to a number of times here on eGullet!!

Kuitan calls the chef "Oyakata" (親方) in this episode.

I call this particular chef "Goshujin" because his sushi shop is family-run, and his wife is always there. His mother joins them at dinnertime.