Sam Mason's Tailor has Arrived

[oakapple]

Flash or no flash? At time's I have seen restaurants frown at the use of flash. Just wondering if that could have been the issue?

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It's possible he was confused, but he said no photography whatsoever.

My usual practice is to use the flash if there's no one sitting nearby, and to turn it off otherwise. As I mentioned, the restaurant was empty, so I used the flash. (Had I kept it off, it's probable he wouldn't have noticed.)

The host said, "Sorry, no flash photography."

"No flash photography?" I replied.

He came back, "Sorry, please no photography."

[Daniel]

Was it crowded?

[oakapple]

Was it crowded?

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It was totally empty when I arrived, and only sparsely populated when I left, but it was the 6:00–7:00 hour, which I would not expect to be prime time for this sort of place.

[Nathan]

when I had lunch with u.e. at Perry Street they asked him to stop taking pictures.

I believe that a more expanded wine list and menu are in the works for Tailor.

the cocktails are the correct size. cooler and punch style drinks (i.e. containing soda or the like) are served in larger tall glasses while the other cocktails are the correct size for well-made drinks (most places today serve cocktails way too large with the result that they get too warm...you can check with the cocktail forum or any standard reference book.)

Edited September 12, 2007 by Nathan (log)

[oakapple]

when I had lunch with u.e. at Perry Street they asked him to stop taking pictures.

It may very well depend on who is in charge that day. For a very copiously photographed meal at Perry Street, see here.

I believe that a more expanded wine list and menu are in the works for Tailor.

A very wise move, IMO. All good restaurants tweak their menus, but having said that, I cannot recall a restaurant opening with such minimal offerings to start with.

the cocktails are the correct size.  cooler and punch style drinks (i.e. containing soda or the like) are served in larger tall glasses while the other cocktails are the correct size for well-made drinks (most places today serve cocktails way too large with the result that they get too warm...you can check with the cocktail forum or any standard reference book.)

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As one who orders cocktails reasonably frequently, I can tell you that they were on the smallish side. Not unreasonably sized, but below average. If the correct sizing is that well known, it's surprising that more restaurants aren't aware of it.

The truth is, they were very enjoyable, but I felt they competed with the food, and if that's what they're encouraging you to drink, the bill is going to mount rather quickly. I thought that people ought to be aware of that.

[Nathan]

three ounces of liquor is standard. you'll see that at Pegu, Flatiron, M&H, P.D.T...

most restaurants and bars do larger than that due to customer expectations.

I know that Tailor is waiting on much of their liquor order. I imagine the same is true for wine.

as you noted, there will be a chef's tasting menu (I'm hopeful that this might be composed of dishes not on the ala carte menu ... as at WD-50). it'll be interesting to see how this turns out.

(sidenote on the photos...my guess is that if you hadn't used flash they wouldn't have said anything to you)

[kathryn]

Flash or no flash? At time's I have seen restaurants frown at the use of flash. Just wondering if that could have been the issue?

←

It's possible he was confused, but he said no photography whatsoever.

My usual practice is to use the flash if there's no one sitting nearby, and to turn it off otherwise. As I mentioned, the restaurant was empty, so I used the flash. (Had I kept it off, it's probable he wouldn't have noticed.)

The host said, "Sorry, no flash photography."

"No flash photography?" I replied.

He came back, "Sorry, please no photography."

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Interesting. Were you using a point and shoot camera (pocket digital) or an SLR (with removable lenses, like a Canon Rebel or similar)?

Sometimes when I pull my SLR out I get asked if the photos are for "personal use." Or I have to pretend that I'm taking photos of my companion rather than the food.

I mean Mr. Mason has worked at WD-50 and tons and tons of people take photos of their food at WD-50...

[Jesikka]

Flash or no flash? At time's I have seen restaurants frown at the use of flash. Just wondering if that could have been the issue?

←

It's possible he was confused, but he said no photography whatsoever.

My usual practice is to use the flash if there's no one sitting nearby, and to turn it off otherwise. As I mentioned, the restaurant was empty, so I used the flash. (Had I kept it off, it's probable he wouldn't have noticed.)

The host said, "Sorry, no flash photography."

"No flash photography?" I replied.

He came back, "Sorry, please no photography."

←

Interesting. Were you using a point and shoot camera (pocket digital) or an SLR (with removable lenses, like a Canon Rebel or similar)?

Sometimes when I pull my SLR out I get asked if the photos are for "personal use." Or I have to pretend that I'm taking photos of my companion rather than the food.

I mean Mr. Mason has worked at WD-50 and tons and tons of people take photos of their food at WD-50...

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We took pictures of everything and no one said a word. The host (GM) was explaining all of our dishes, so I don't think it was that no one noticed. Maybe they've reconsidered since we were in.

The wine list is definitely going to expand considerably, but they do push the cocktails.

I'm not sure how much they're planning to expand the menu, but I know that Sam is intending to change out the dishes quite often.

[oakapple]

Interesting. Were you using a point and shoot camera (pocket digital) or an SLR (with removable lenses, like a Canon Rebel or similar)?

It was a pocket digital camera.

I mean Mr. Mason has worked at WD-50 and tons and tons of people take photos of their food at WD-50...

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I agree, it was a little odd. These days, there is hardly a restaurant of consequence that hasn't been extensively photo-blogged. In contrast, the g/f and I dined at Per Se on Saturday night. They were actually helping us out—leaving bottles from our wine pairing on the table, so we could photograph them. Edited September 12, 2007 by oakapple (log)

[robert40]

I mean Mr. Mason has worked at WD-50 and tons and tons of people take photos of their food at WD-50...

Which may be the very foundation of his no photo policy.

[avant-garde]

So for anyone who has been...can you speak to any of these? Some of the products have me interested (e.g, Smoked Coke, Bubble Gum, Bell Pepper Lemonade).

COCKTAILS

Bazooka—vodka, bubble gum cordial, house sour, $13

Pan Pacific—shochu, thai basil, calamansi, coconut water, $14

Cascade—gin, cascade hops, martini bianco, $13

Violet Fizz—gin, lemon, lime, cream, egg white, crème de violette, $15

Paprika Punch—rum, bell pepper lemonade, molasses, $14

Crumble—brown butter rum, pink clove, scrumpy, $13

Bohemio—tequila, becherovka, naranya agria, $12

Agua Verde—equila, tomatillo, cilantro, habenero, $14

Good Ol—Boy – bourbon, smoked coke, preserved lemon, $12

Blood & Sand—scotch, sweet vermouth, bitter orange sorbet, red bach, $14

Charantais—walnut cognac, dandelion cointreau, lemon, $14

Antoine—Sazarac – cognac, peyshaud, absinthe, $15

[Nathan]

So for anyone who has been...can you speak to any of these?  Some of the products have me interested (e.g, Smoked Coke, Bubble Gum, Bell Pepper Lemonade).

COCKTAILS

Bazooka—vodka, bubble gum cordial, house sour, $13

Pan Pacific—shochu, thai basil, calamansi, coconut water, $14

Cascade—gin, cascade hops, martini bianco, $13

Violet Fizz—gin, lemon, lime, cream, egg white, crème de violette, $15

Paprika Punch—rum, bell pepper lemonade, molasses, $14

Crumble—brown butter rum, pink clove, scrumpy, $13

Bohemio—tequila, becherovka, naranya agria, $12

Agua Verde—equila, tomatillo, cilantro, habenero, $14

Good Ol—Boy – bourbon, smoked coke, preserved lemon, $12

Blood & Sand—scotch, sweet vermouth, bitter orange sorbet, red bach, $14

Charantais—walnut cognac, dandelion cointreau, lemon, $14

Antoine—Sazarac – cognac, peyshaud, absinthe, $15

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several of these have been discussed on this thread.

the Bazooka is an ironic drink...it's not supposed to be good. it's just supposed to sell.

Cascade is bone-dry, very hoppy and quite interesting.

the Violet Fizz is basically a standard version of the various fizz drinks using the R & W violette that is circulating now.

Paprika Punch I liked a lot. very peppery.

Crumble is quite good. the brown butter rum is a little too buttery on its own but works well in a cocktail.

Bohemio is only the second cocktail I've ever seen to use Becherovka. it's well-balanced and good.

Good Ol Boy is a bourbon and smoked coke. it works.

Blood and Sand is a variation on the classic.

Charantais is simply a sidecar with house made walnut cognac and dandeloin cointreau. very good. this will disappear from the menu shortly. get it now.

I haven't tried the Antoine but it sure looks like a classic Sazerac to me (until about 1880 the Sazerac used cognac not rye)

[ulterior epicure]

The entire food portion of the menu, both "Salty" and "Sweet," are posted in pictorial particularity on my flickr site.

[BryanZ]

Thank you, UE.

[ulterior epicure]

Thank you, UE.

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Always a pleasure, BryanZ. Wish you were here to play with us.

[ulterior epicure]

I'm on the road (and about to hit the 'stack after a long day of VACATION), so I'll just post some initial thoughts of my experience of Tailor, overall, here for now. More thoughts later to come.

As opposed to Alinea, WD~50 and Moto, all of which I have been to, I think Tailor is, with Moto, the most successful - for my tastes. Now, for those of you who know me, althought I don't doubt the talent, craft, skill, and innovation of Achatz and Dufresne, my visits to their restaurants failed to grab me. I left Alinea (on two occasions) and WD~50 (on one visit) completely deflated.

Moto was fun - mostly for theatrics, but the food was also tasty. It was the most gimmicky of the "avant garde" American restaurants... but at least the food was good, and I was amused. As a diner, I felt more "invited to participate" at Moto than at either Alinea and WD~50, where I felt removed from my food - as if I were just one more visitor to a "gallery" or "museum" of modern food (art).

Tailor, to me, both in atmosphere and food, is much more primal. At core, Sam Mason is trying to create an event, as well as a pleasant, tasty, but challenging meal. The dishes may not "come as easily" to most, as would most mainstream "fine dining" food/establishments, but there is a spectacular flavor and texture schema going on here that goes beyond what others have appropriately referred to as "experimentation for experimentation's sake." The food is, for the most part, tasty. I can't say that I was ecstatic about all the combinations and flavors, but I very much enjoyed tasting all of them, and thinking about them, without over-analzying them. They were all very tasty. I would say that the only one that I found thoroughly uninteresting was the Caramel Panna Cotta from the "Sweet" side of the menu. The weakest "Salty" item was probably the Snapper. I thought the flavors were all individually interesting - and together they affected a unique combination - but the title role, 'Snapper,' seemed out of place... detached from the rest.

A dining companion pointed out that The Lemon Curd seems to be exactly the same dish that Mason served at WD~50. The "Soft Chocolate" dessert course at Tailor, I thought, seemed like a coy "wink and nod" to his colleague Alex Stupak; it was near-similar to a Chocolate Twist dessert that I had eaten at Alinea, under the stewardship of then-pastry chef, Stupak.

I loved the interior design of Tailor. The space must have been a garment store? I puzzled over the name of the new restaurant, but after visiting, I *think* I get it - the servers (who are all very svelte and trim) are in tailored pinstriped grey wool. The interior has a chic rusticity with a commanding back wall of pin-striped wallpaper. The bartender perches above the dining room in a separate room in the back - you can see him, and his bottles through a large opening. Upon first entering, I thought he was the DJ.

The service is very professional, and rather efficient. The room was full and empty throughout different periods - they seemed to come and go in waves.

More later, if you are still curious.

u.e.

[avant-garde]

Very nice write up U.E. Much appreciated. And great job with the photos.

[ulterior epicure]

Someone on another food forum commented on the fact that the comments with my photos seemed less positive than my "overall" review of Tailor, which I have posted upthread a few posts. Here is my response:

I was, overall, positive about my experience at Tailor. Keep in mind that I was commenting on Tailor vis-a-vis other American "avant garde" restaurants, per ******'s initial inquiry/prompting. Compared with Alinea and WD~50, I did like Tailor very much. I think that Mason's food is a little more subtle and smug than Cantu's (Moto), which is very brash and knocks you over the head with bold metaphors and food concepts.

As I commented to a friend who was with me at Tailor, I would return to Tailor on a semi-frequent basis, just out of curiosity, if I lived in New York. As it is, being "tourist" and "food traveller," my time and meals in the city are a premium. Their are but a handful of restaurants in NYC that I have found so utterly astounding that I'd eagerly go back for repeat visits (in case you're curious: Jean Georges, Babbo, and Sushi Yasuda - and perhaps EMP. I'd not be disappointed in re-doing Casa Mono at any time, either). Tailor, at present, is not among them.

I think what Tailor did for me, that no other American restaurant has done to date, is successfully made me reconceptualize/reposition/reorient/revolutionize the way I perceive and understand the roles of savoriness (i.e. saltiness) and sweetness in a "traditional" (American) meal. I have eaten extensively throughout Asia and have had enough encounters in Scandinavia and with Scandinavian food to know that in those cultures, savory and sweet bleed into each other quite frequently in ways completely different than any other part of the world. Tailor did that for me here in the U.S. and with "Americanized" food. That, in itself, was worth my time, money, visit... and I dare say, a re-evaluation some time down the line. It's not a place I'd go back to just for the food or atmosphere (as much I enjoyed the space/service). But, I think it's a place that I "get," and I appreciate what I took away from it. Jean Georges and G. Elliot Bowles (whom I liken to a kid in a candy store), are the only other two chefs (in America) who have come close to doing what Tailor does, successfully). Caveat: I have not been to Pichet Ong's P*ong.

[Nathan]

I too loved that passionfruit poached char. souse vide would make sense for its texture.

I do agree that Tailor is ultimately more primal than Alinea or WD-50 (though its platings and general level of execution are certainly sophisticated enough!)...

I didn't realize that you liked Babbo that much....along with Ssam Bar (I'm very curious about your thoughts on that restaurant), it's the most "primal" restaurant in NY.

At one level WD-50 is the most cerebral of any of them. although Alinea's combination of its courses with its elaborate and individualized utensils provides a similar aggregate effect -- I suppose this also contributes to your "museum feelings" toward Alinea.

but I think that Alinea is ultimately more conservative than WD-50. I perceive Tailor as being about as radical as Alinea (i.e. less than WD-50)....but I agree that it seems less sterile or intellectual than Alinea (but I don't mind that about Alinea in the slightest)

[SobaAddict70]

I would not characterize Tailor as one of the best restaurants in NYC. It's certainly good as far as its premise is concerned -- but if I had a choice between a stalwart favorite like Hearth or a contemporary like Ssam Bar, Tailor would not cut it.

That being said, I will be back in a few months so I can see how Chef Mason's cooking evolves.

Some pix from tonight:

Foie gras, chopped peanuts, cocoa, pear

Cod, miso, sherry gastrique, pea shoots, watermelon foam, sesame rice cracker

Pork belly, jicama, artichoke, butterscotch/apple cider glaze

Total bill came out to $173 with tax and tip for a seven-course tasting menu with wine and cocktails. First impressions: his savories work better than his sweets. When I return, I'll choose one or two from each side of the menu rather than going full bore.

I'm having a bowl of dan-dan noodles while I sit here and post, two hours later. Go for the experience, not to get filled up.

[Nathan]

they started serving the tasting menu as of Thursday.

had a long conversation with Eban on Friday about where they're taking the cocktail menu...it's going to be fun.

sidenote: this should not be treated as a regular serious cocktail bar. it's not, nor is it intended to be. some of the bartenders are using jiggers for the very first time. don't go in and order a Last Word or the like!

[alwang]

Had a good, if not sublime, meal at Tailor Saturday night. Some scattered, unsorted observations:

- The char was my favorite savory dish: the floral aroma when they brought it to the table was amazing. The fish texture was spot on, although I think I would have liked the lime pickle flavor to be carried by something other than spaetzle; something that would have given a little textural variation.

- Foie was fantastic, somebody needs to make a foie gras peanut butter Kit Kat.

- Pork belly: the meat itself was not that tender, and unremarkable. The miso butterscotch itself was excellent, but not particularly difficult. Artichokes were good, but I would have cut off the tops as they were stringy. I thought in terms of composition, this was the simplest of all the dishes. I was looking for something more.

- Duck tartare: i liked the gaminess of it, but didn't love the texture. The cherry preserve was nice, but I didn't get much out of the marjoram pesto. I thought the chocolate bread crisp was mostly flavorless.

- The bread, as advertised, is very good, but apparently they source it from nearby Grandaisy. I'll definitely be picking up some next time I'm in the neighborhood.

- Both my dining companion and I agreed the Sweet dishes were more interesting than the Salties. The soft chocolate and mission fig dishes were probably my overall favorites for the night: they pulled together a wide range of harmonious tastes in a way that wasn't replicated by any of the savories, which seemed, actually, a little simple and restrained in comparison. The best of the Sweets are also leaps and bounds better than dishes at the dessert bars I've been to (Chika, Kyotofu). I feel the ice cream for both of those desserts serves a real key role in binding the other components together, and really encouraging you to eat everything simultaneously. For some of the salty dishes, there wasn't that binding element: it wasn't easy to incorporate all the flavors of the foie in one bite, for instance.

- The one dessert I would pass on was the blueberries with black olive loaf. The loaf itself, once you got pass the novelty of olives, was on the dry side. More importantly, I don't think the flavors balanced well, and leaned too heavily on the sour side. The blueberries, possibly because they're at the end of season, were tart. The yogurt sorbet was slightly tart. The citrusy foam was very tart. Couple that with the fact that at that point in the meal we were drinking pretty sour cocktails, it made for an unsettling end to the evening.

- Speaking of cocktails, this meal confirmed for me that there is a very limited selection of cocktails that I would drink with a meal. That said, I'm not sure I'd revisit Tailor's cocktails even if I wasn't eating. The Charantais was excellent, but the others were pretty disappointing, including the Violet Fizz, the Paprika Punch, and the pumpernickel raisin scotch. Even accepting that these are not your traditional cocktails, you can get better-made and conceived inventive drinks at PDT.

- What is noteworthy about Sam Mason and Tailor is not the execution of the dishes (which at this point is average), but the interesting AND subtle flavor and texture combinations. To compare it to a contemporary, Ssam Bar also deals in interesting combinations, but they tend to hit you over the head like a hammer (not a bad thing, just different). Tailor's choices are nuanced, and often inspired.

[fauxtarga]

Went on the same night as Al.

Charentais is a great cocktail but needed to be consumed quickly because it dominates the palate. Had to take a breather before I could really taste the plum + beer foam amuse.

Blueberry and black olive cake was actually my favorite dessert on the menu, maybe one of the best desserts I've had this year. I do like sour things, though.

Speaking of Ssam Bar, the dish there that Tailor made me think of most was the urchin and tapioca, and makes me wish there were things on the Tailor menu that made use of products like urchin or shrimp brain.

Overall, an excellent meal, and we will be back. We were able to eat the entire menu (less 2 from the sweet side), plus cocktail + sake for less than 200 before tip, it seemed like kind of a deal.

[ulterior epicure]

Blueberry and black olive cake was actually my favorite dessert on the menu, maybe one of the best desserts I've had this year. I do like sour things, though.

I can see how this might not be the most popular "Sweet" item on the menu, but I think it was my favorite as well. If you like sour tastes, then I suspect you enjoyed the Lemon Curd "Sweet?" That was the other one that I liked as well.

u.e.

[chiram]

Alwang:

"The best of the Sweets are also leaps and bounds better than dishes at the dessert bars I've been to (Chika, Kyotofu)."

A misguided partnering of Chika and Kyofofu in the same category. Be careful there. Your writings are not indicitive of one so careless.

I and friend had the privilege Friday evening and though I agree with much of your assessment, the foie was not particually well received at our table--which brings me to ask, have you dined at Petrossian? I'd be curious to hear your comparisons of the real deal vs. American, Up Sate NY imposters. Foie Gras Kit Kat...American. The way that "interesting" trumps "taste" and overall accomplishment of goals here fascinates. Less is perhaps truly more.

We made our own cocktail flight and found all to be unique and well executed. The table favorite was the Pumpernickel Raisin Scotch, though all were delightful. We really appreciated the sweets here, in particular, the Blueberries with Black Olive Loaf. But, they are "IN NO WAY" on par with Desserts served at Chikalicious. Just want to be very clear about that. First, Tailor's desserts are $12 as are ChikaLicious'. Tailor is the traditional...server arrives with your dessert, you consume and you're done. ChikaLicious is amuse (fabulous always. What you and person next to you get are different), Main course (changes everyday with the most titillating flavor juxtapositions imaginable), then the Petits Fours (also changing daily with the most brilliant coconut marshmallow ever conceived) for $12...all served you by CHIKA. You also watch the entire preparation of your dessert at the counter. Simply astonishing. And the taste...the taste...delectably YUUUUUUUUUUMMY. As dessert places go, Chika is in a class all her own and ChikaLicious is currently being written in the annals

as a Planetary wonder. Period.

Tailor's execution was flawless and servers were well informed and professional without being too stuffy. Tremendous experience all around. My kind of place. Loved it!

Edited September 17, 2007 by chiram (log)