TN: Three wines of character

[Florida Jim]

2005 Monjardin, Chardonnay El Cerezo:

Unoaked chardonnay from Navarra, Spain. I found that serving this chilled killed the fruit, emphasized a dirty edge to it and made the wine unpleasant. Warmed to room temp (not even cool) it was an entirely different wine; lemon curd and stones on the nose with light nutmeg, butterscotch and herb accents; thick bodied in the mouth with rich flavors that follow the nose, a bit of a dirty/musty/mineral tone and bracing acidity; a very long, crisp finish. An interesting wine and one of the few unoaked chardonnays outside of Chablis that I think is worth a second look. Probably needs a year or two (or more) in the cellar; left on the counter overnight without a stopper it was even more open and complex. 13.5% alcohol, imported by Winebow and about $11; I’d buy it again.

(Aside: There were times when I was drinking this wine that I loved it; there were also times when I thought the mineral/dirt element was a flaw. And then there’s the fact that it’s so rich and yet has such powerful acidity. Right now, I’ll call it “interesting” and go find another bottle just to see if that’s what I’ll stick with.)

2005 Jean-Pierre et Jean-François Quénard, Chignin Anne de la Biguerne:

No second thoughts about this beautiful Vin de Savoie from hand harvested, 65 year old jacquère vines grown on chalk and limestone soils; floral, alpine scents with white fruit and light spice notes; supple, texturally silky wine but with penetrating flavors that follow the nose, perfect balance and exquisite harmony. A charming wine by itself and a wonderful foil for pasta with shrimp and anchovy sauce. I am sad to see this last bottle go – but it was made to drink young and I enjoyed every sip. 12% alcohol, imported by Charles Neal Selections and about $10; I’d buy it again.

2005 Pardevalles, Prieto Picudo Gamonal:

This is from the new DO (as of 9-2005) Tierras de León which is somewhat east of Bierzo in northern Spain. Prieto Picudo is a small berried, very dark indigenous grape and the Gamonal vineyard contains the oldest trellised vines of this variety. The wine smells of ripe plums, tannin and has a plowed earth, cinnamon, autumn leaves profile that is very enticing; it has the weight of good Burgundy, reminds me a little of Italy’s Etna Rosso wines in its overall delivery and has good structure, grip, ripeness, balance and focus while still being somewhat rustic; it finishes long with a hint of baker’s chocolate. 14% alcohol, imported by Frontier Wine Imports and about $14; I’d buy it again.

(Aside: I think this is worth actively seeking out as it is from a unique grape and appears to be vinted honestly into an authentic wine of character. It is more than worth trying - impressive.)

Best, Jim