TN: Three whites

[Florida Jim]

1999 J.J. Prum, Riesling Spätlese Wehlener Sonnenuhr:

A.P. #2 576 511 12 00; okay, that’s it – I have had enough of this producer. This house may make towering wines that age forever but I don’t have the patience and the amount of SO2 used here is beyond my tolerance. Somewhere underneath it all, there were brief moments when I could catch a scent or distinguish a flavor that wasn’t sulphered beyond recognition but it wasn’t worth the effort. 7.5% alcohol, imported by Valkenberg Intnl. and I’ve forgotten the price, although it really doesn’t matter; if they were giving the stuff away I wouldn’t want it.

2005 Abad Dom Bueno, Godello:

The label describes this Bierzo white exactly: “Clear with a straw color and fresh herb, pineapple, and characteristic grapefruit aromas, lead into green spice and natural fruit flavors with bright acidity. The wine finishes with a soft, lingering citrus finish.” I’d add that it exhibits viscosity and is mouth-filling. Superb with tuna and white bean salad. 13% alcohol, imported by Frontier Wine and about $10; I’d buy it again.

2005 Daniel Dampt et Fils, Chablis:

Mineral driven but with bright, honeyed lemon fruit, good concentration, taut structure and typicité. It changed over time; got tighter, became more complex and added an herbal element. Not your typical village wine, as it has much more in common with this producer’s premier crus than with other AOC Chablis. And, much like its stable mates, needs time in the cellar. Very good with grilled chicken and grilled veggies. BTW, this house is noted for its all stainless steel operation and wines that are true vin de garde. 12.5% alcohol, imported by Grantham Distributing and about $18; I’d buy it again.

Best, Jim