jaybee

And the British upper class would not or did not support the establishment of an "haute-cuisine?" The french aristocracy seemed hell bent of eating well, why not the British? or did they just send out for French? (What are you doing up so late, John?)

The more one sees primitive art, particularly African native art, the more one wonders how truly revolutionary the modern incarnation of this art is. Perhaps the true revolution was the adoption of Picasso's "modernism" by the cognescenti.

I'm not one who would make that argument. My observation is that the cuisines of, say, Tuscany, Umbria, Valdostana, Piemontese, Romagna, Liguria, Campana, Puglia, etc. are emerging as specialities. As chefs develop expertise in these regions and people experience the subtleties and variations of the preparations and sauces, their opinions and appreciation of the level of the foods rise. My guess is that over the next ten years, haute-Italian will gain supremacy over French, which is becoming old-hat. (not to mention what will be a growing anti-French sentiment in the heartland of chic-America). French cooking of today is struggling, like jazz in America, to find a new voice and level. Bop was the last big revolution in jazz, and what has come since is just a mish-mash of individual styles and cross-genre attempts. Had Miles lived longer, we might have seen a new "school" or movement, but there are no leaders now to take us there. The same might be said of French cuisine. Thai-French fusion is just a desperate attempt to inject some variation in a stagnant cuisine, (good tasting as much of it may be).

For a good part of the 18th and 19th century, the British Empire was the world's most powerful, and the British upper class among the most aped. Why was there no similar development of cuisine emanating from this rich and powerful empire? The same question might be asked of Portugal, Spain or Holland in their glory years. It is an interesting question of why French cuisine was adopted as the standard among, at least, the western nations. As for popularity in the US, I would put my money on Italian over any other ethnic cuisine. And, in the last ten years, "Italian" has become elevated to the level of semi-haute cuisine as new regional variations become available in our major cities.

Returning to New York and my computer after five days in the country, I found a three foot pile of New York Times, a new Architectural Digest, and at least three threads on eGullet that had grown like Jack's beanstalk. Daunting task to catch up. I'll do something dangerous and perhaps lazily, post on this subject without reading the ten pages of posts that preceed me. ( promise to read them all). The new AD is themed something like "The world's most exotic homes." And some are, including a 240 foot sailing yacht. These are interesting articles to read, and even more interesting to see photographs of homes that cost upwards of $15 million. I wondered if I would find a magazine themed "exotic homes costing $25,000 or less" as fascinating? I doubt that the design, concepts, furnishings, landscaping and ideas inherent in the low- end houses would tickle me as much as the high-end domiciles. In one, a designer used bamboo wood to make a polished hardwood floor. The look and sense of it is spectacular. I'll remember it when time comes to redo a room or two. The use of tiles, ceramics, unusual materials are inherently interesting to me. The furnishings are wonderful, in the literal meaning of the word. To use Steve's phrase, the "level of subtelty and variance when discussing them" is far and away greater than that which could be found in a story on prefabs or "cheap" housing. NB>I'm not saying that inexpensive housing is not important, and that new ideas for such are not vital to the majority of the world's population. They are. I just am not personally interested in spending much time reading about them. And so it goes with food. I would much rather read one of Cabrales', or Lizziee's, or Steve's descriptions of a penultimate meal than I would read about the making of hot dogs, pizza or hamburgers, even though hamburgers and hot dogs are among my most favorite things to eat. Once told by Henry Meer to try adding ground brisket to the beef for hamburger, (and I did and loved the result) I lost interest in the subject. As an amateur cook, I'll read anything that is relevant to things I cook or might want to cook. But I'd rather be over my head than regressing to a level I've long passed by. I could probably say the same for gardening. I doubt the any designed by Lutyens and Jekyll cost less than a small fortune, but who wants to read about anything lower down on the scale of design and look? That said, I will now go back to reading about homes I someday hope to afford.

I'm a charcoal griller. No propane for me. I've been using a grill bought over 20 years ago made by a company that doesn't exist anymore. It has a large grill surface (28" x 20"), adjustable fire grate, hinged cover and rotisserie. The body is made from muffler steel and the grates are cast iron. The whole cart is can be moved on front wheels. Typically we grill for six to twenty people. The fires are made from hardwood charcoal oand/or brickettes and are very hot. It can cook up to twelve 1/2 lb hamburgers, six-ten sausages and a roast on the spit at the same time. I love the thing, but one day it will wear out, and I am at a loss to find a replacement as good. Anyone have any ideas?

Jaymes, that was John Peterman, of the J. Peterman catalog and Seinfeld fame. His catalogs are redolent with descriptions much like yours of the Peninsula. A friend and colleague, Don Staley, is the originator of the "J Peterman concept and persona, and writer of much of the copy for the first ten years of the company's existence. The romance of the settings, often cast back in the haze of time, sold many a shirt, dress, hat or piece of luggage for them. Don just made me a gift of a lovely ridged Panama hat, which I will wear to my next eGullet event, puffing on a long, Havana panatella and ordering a Pimms Cup.

Alas! I know what you mean. But the night view of the harbor from the Regent's triple-width floor-to-ceiling windows of our room was unforgettable. It wasn't the Regent that took the Peninsula's view away though. It was the aquarium or some such sort, wasn't it?

The single most remarkable dish I ever ate in a restaurant was a lobster consomme on the porch at Rostang Senior's place on the Riviera. It was clear golden liquid, only slightly viscous. It's clear, bland appearance gave no clue to the taste. Oh what a taste! My mouth filled with the taste of the most succulent, sweet lobster I had ever eaten. It was an act of gustatory illusion. A clear liquid that tasted as though it was a mouthful of lobster meat with its flavor amplified several times. I could barely wait to swallow before spooning the next portion over my tongue. The purity and singularity of that dish will stay with me always. Several samples of others' attempts at this dish have fallen short of this standard. In fact, with the exception of one lobster from a coastal Maine pound, I have never tasted lobster as good.

Jaymes, I could get you an introduction to John Peterman. maybe you want to write for his catalog? I was in Gaddi's and didn't want to leave. It was like living a movie, a time warp. I remember when the small uniformed "call boy" walked throught the lobby with his belled blackboard, singing "Call for Mr. Sydney. Mr. Hugh Sydney!" We drank martinis in the lounge of the Regent and ate downstairs there. I regret not having eaten at Gaddi's.

As I've said on other butter threads, the Normandy stuff ("Issigny") is best in my book, but recently I discovered that Land 'O Lakes has introduced an "Ultra Creamy" butter, apparently in response to the growing trend toward "gourmet" butters. I've been using it for about a week on toasted corn muffins, sandwiches of French ham and crusty bread and I like it. The taste isn't as clean and creamy-sweet as the Normandy butter, but it rich, fresh with good flavor and mouthfeel. I'd be interested if anyone tries it, what they think? Here's a link to beurre d'Isigny Ste. Mere. Da Best Buddah Bar None

Written by one whose national dish is bangers, fried bread, kippers and eggs, swimming in grease and washed down with warm beer.

FG (and others): is your problem that the hot dog article appeared in the New York Times (or the hamburger story in Saveur), or that it appeared at all? What if it had been published in the Village Voice or the Daily News. Would you have the same objection? From your comments, I think not. (I thought it was a really crappy story by the way. Very superficial and fizzee). So am I right to conclude that you think this is "stooping" or "slumming" for the Times? Well, they are (increasingly) a business more than a "journal". Their overt strategies to build audience and cater to new readers and younger readers is daily more obvious. The demographics of newspaper readership are like that of Cadillac buyers--"older." Advertisers want young people. Ergo, the Times wants young people. Ergo, hot dogs. Maybe soon we'll see a comparative tasting of bubble gums written by Hesser. Steve P makes the point that there is little inherently interesting in an article about hamburgers or hot dogs. I recall not long ago we had a long thread about hot dogs, how best to cook them etc. And a new thread came up just last week. Another thread about the best hamburgers in NYC led me to City Hall, which I lovel. So obviously the subject is not without its fans.

Is there an olive pie? Jin?

Paula, For the last four or five years we have eaten almost exclusively at bistros in Paris. The range and variety of regional foods is so great and the experiences so rich and textured that we have had little motivation to go more than seldom to a three star place. Of course, we were helping my brother-in law and sister-in-law research bistros for their guide book, but I would find it hard to go on a three star diet now. There are one or two new ones in Paris I haven't tried that tempt me, but if given a choice, I would head back to Boyer's place or Troigros. I suggest you buy a couple of good guide books, do a lot of research, make lists and plot your meals carefully. If you'd like some of our favorite bistros, send me a PM and I'll discuss them with you. By the way, you mentioned "upscale treats"--were you referring to spending $200-300 per person or $150-300 per coouple per meal? You can do the latter at bistros, the former at 3 star places.

I probably have as many varieties of olives in my pantry as I do preserves. I love the little niçoise olives from Nyon (I think), small black ones. They sell a nice (though expensive) jar at Pan Quotidian. The ChefShop has a good variety of cured, flavored and otherwise different olives. I find it hard to resist the olive department at Fairway. Ham sandwiches don't taste as good without a handul of olives scattered about the plate. One of my favorite olivees is the one at the bottom of a chiiled Bombay Martini!

My nephew works at a top wine store and took this course. He had learned a great deal from tasting over the last year. That said, he felt the course added greatly to his knowledge and understanding of a broad range of wines from different countries, wines that he might not ordinarily had the oportunity to taste or sought out. Granted, he wants to make a career in the wine business, but his basic understanding of differences among wines, grape types and character and the factors that influence quality were enhanced by the course.

This weekend I came across Land 'O Lakes "Ultra Creamy Butter" which is their new entry inthe high butterfat category. I'e always like LOL butter so I bought it. After several eatings I say it is pretty good stuff. It has a rich clean and fresh taste and fatty mouthfeel. It isn't up to the Normandy butter, but it is a vey good alternative at lower price. I suggest trying it to see for yourself.

You're a better man than I Gunga Din!

I learned a lot from David Rosengarten. Love Jaques and Caludine, always enjoyed Julia, liked grillin and chillin. The robot clap audience for Emeril is a turn off. Why is it so cool to clap when he adds butter, garlic or booze? It's bush league. Lidia Bs show is good.

Saturday we opened a bottle of 1962 La Tour Blanche that my brother-in-law cellared since 1970. We drank it with a tarte tatin that ended our pre-Fourth bbq. It was emphemeral. Sweet, fruity, rich and full of flavor. There was an intense burst of flavor, sweetness and honey that filled my mouth and it was gone in an instant. After swallowing, there was almost no evidence that I had such a powerful taste in my mouth. Just amazing. A perfect compliment to the buttery sweet and slightly tart caramel tarte. The cigar smokers among us finished our glasses smoking 1959 Flor de Canos coronas from Havana. These have been in my humidor for fifteen years. They were perfumy, fragrant and mild. Some things do get better with age! edited on 7/2 to expand the description of the taste.

We drove the coast from New Hanmpshire to just below Bar Harbor a couple of years ago.. Our dirve hugged the shore line whenever possible. Wiccossett has a couple of great lobster pounds and lots of antique stores.. We just picked the places as we went along based on how they looked. Sometimes we asked local inn keepers. The rough and ready places with picnic tables on the dock are your best bet. I think lobsters are in good supply thois season, so prices should be reasonable and quality, good. The "shore dinners" usually include a 1 1/2 lb steamed lobster, steamed clams, corn on the cob and cole slaw. The best bet, unless you have someone recommend a place is to go by your instinct. The places that look pretty low key and simple are usually the best. I totally agree with your decision to avoid "fine dining". They all have cold beer (local brews are best). Beware at night though in some areas on the Maine coast the mosquitos are terrific. They swarm all over you. So wear long sleeves when the sun goes down and put repellent on your clothes if you want to be outside after dark. We must have eaten fifty lobsters between the four of us on that trip and about one quarter were incredible, eight of ten were good and only two in ten were bland and watery. Not too bad.

Are you hurrying back for more?

Knowing Wilfrid, the meal must have been truly offal.... ta...dum But seriously, I am after "best" not "most pleasurable." I've gotten much pleasure from incredible hamburgers, but the issue of this thread is culinary "best" with the assumption that pleasure was the handmaiden of the meal, else why would it be "best?"

Fat Guy's NY board question on "must go to" restaurants in NYC prompted me to think of the best restaurant meals I've had. I tried to come up with a single best and had a tough time. Focussing on the food (assume the wines were good to great) I came up with six (in order of memory, not ranking): 1. Dinner at Restaurant Greuze in Tournous (1999). The garlic roast chicken was so good you could cry. 2. The degustasion menu at Lammelois in 1975. The magret de canard set a standard that still hasn't been beaten. 3. My first meal at Bouley's original restaurant (1995?). Everything was best in class. 4. Dinner at Troisgros when the brothers were in their prime (1983?). The seared whole fois gras was a revelation. 5. Degustasion at Pic in Valence (1978?) when Jacques Pic was in his prime. A casserole of pike in a sorrel sauce topped with caviar pops to mind. 6. Dinner at Hosteau Beaumanier in Les Baux when Thulier was still overseeing the kitchen (1980). The lamb was the best I've ever had. A 1/2 bottle of Y'quem with dessert also stands out in my memory. The setting is spectacular.