jaybee

A very dry icy cold martini made with gin that is not too full of botanicals is not really a "mixed" drink. It has a purity of taste and a clean dry finish with a sort of cutting sharpness that offsets the richness of the oyster meat and the saltiness of the oyster liquor. Just use fresh ground pepper and nothing else on the oysters. Maybe a slight squeeze of lemon, but that isn't even necessary.

Tommy, I've taken a shine to a veddy dry and cold Bombay (not Saphire) or Beefeater martini, up, to accompany oysters and clams. The sharp, clean taste sets up and finishes the oysters very well and brings out the nuances of flavor. Two of these babies will work for a dozen oysters.

You've all confirmed my expectation. I'll either stick with my "V" slicer or get the Benriner. Good advice.

Recently I have been sipping a very dry gin martini (Beefeater or Bombay regular), straight up with olives as an accompanyment with oysters and clams. It is a great combination. The gin brings out the flavors of the oysters and the dry finish sets up the next one. I find two average size martinis will do for a dozen oysters. A gin with fewer botanicals works best. (ie, not Saphire or Ten or Tanquerray).

I appreciate your report. It's just that when a place you think of as special shows signs of becoming less so, it's sad. I'll give it a try, though and see for myself. Until then, I'll placate myself by trying Jinmyo's method of eating ossetra from the jar while driving.

Pan, I've had the soup from most of the places mentioned and for my money Barney Greengrass has the best tasting soup and matzo balls of any. Hands down. They sell it in quart containers to go. If you like salty chicken soup, Williams BarBQue on Broadway and 86th makes a good one, though their matzo balls are not nearly as good ad BGs. Arties' matzo balls, the last time I had them,were tasteless.

Oh Cabrales, your post makes me so sad. I eat at the Oyster Bar maybe two three times a year and have not in at least six months. But it always resides in my mind as one of those special places I can go for a pan roast preceded by oysters and clams on the half shell and a good draft beer or crisp white wine. Your experience, which was mirrored by someone else recently, makes me wonder what has happened there? Since I love this kind of food so much, I need to know where else is it better? I like the Aqua Grill for oysters. The Ocean Grill has never disappointed with the quality of the shellfish. City Hall does a nice job, and the fried oysters there are superb. Who makes a great pan roast?

I ate kobe beef as one course of a kaiseki (sp?) dinner at Tarawaya Riokan in Kyoto. I thought it didn't hold a candle to Peter Luger's porterhouse or a Tuscan style grilled ribeye. A good example of hype and exclusivity creating an aura that, in my opinion, is undeserved.

A few weeks ago in the thread about red peppar flakes, olive oil and pasta I posted about a meal I had in an Italian restaurant on the sidewalk terrace, late Friday night in the village. Asked the name I remembered DA Silva something. StefanyB said Da Silvano, silly, the hottest scene and celebrity spotting place around. So who knew? The penne arabiatta was very well prepared. I liked the place, and want to go back.

There is no where else I would choose to live. I love Paris, but only to visit (except now for...oh no, we've already discussed that issue). No other city has the combination of ingredients that NY has. But, you have to be able to leave it frequently or it can grind you down. London is a bore to me. I'd tire of Rome pretty quickly. San Fransisco is too small, LA is not too anything. Rio is horrible (poverty cheek by jowl with excess). I liked San Paolo, but think I would feel like an outsider and be excluded there. (really). Chicago-fuggeddaboudit, Tokyo-never. It's NYC hands down.

Maria looks pretty cute cutting up that big mushroom. Shades of Babette's Feast!

Thanks Jinmyo, now I have to learn how to cook with daikon and buy a new appliance. Life's challenges never cease!

Felonius, you write a good review, and seem to like music too. I will try the Tasting Room. Thanks. By any chance, is your last name Mump?

Big problem. Mostly we try to sleep where we are eating dinner. I recall a lunch in Maisons Laffite where I was the least drunk, even after waiting two hours lying on the lawn in front of the restaurant. It was a harrowing (and stupid) drive back to Versailles. We vowed never to do that again. So one of us volunteers to go easy on the wine. And we alternate.

I didn't say that! I don't need to play with your mandoline to make a TT. But since I do almost all of my baking and cooking on the weekends in the country, I have to see if I can get it together to make one in the city, on my crummy little apartment stove. I still want to sample your TT too. Uh oh, this is sounding weird.

I thought that would be the case. Well, so far I've saved $139. Another $5000 and I can have a good meal!

I keep going back and forth. I've done fine without one up until now, using an inexepensive plastic "V" slicer to cut potatos when I make roasted potato chips. Other than that, a good chef's knife seems to do everything I want. If I buy one, it may wind up on the shelf in the closet. Are there good reasons to own one?

And me not get the chance to taste your version of TT? Uh Uh. I bet you make a good one!

And I for yours, Suvir. Maybe we can meet in Central Park on nice summer afternoon and have a tatin event?

It's always good to have something in reserve, Stefany. I look forward to the report and the regrets will, I'm sure, be mine.

Saturday morning in the country. Two weeks ago. The big coffee maven is making a pot with the French Press and his new, imported coffee from Julius Meinl. Ten tbs of ground coffee and thirty ounces of water just off the boil. Steeps for four minutes and I begin to press the plunger. Very hard going. Like pushing against mud. Put two hands on top of plunger and exert much of my 230 pound upper body weight. Yes, you guessed it. Coffee, gounds and almost boiling water are expelled from the spout with the pressure of a fire hose. The stream travels at least ten feet across the room. Kitchen covered with wet ground coffee, hands beet red, shirt and pants wet and stained. Feel like a complete jerk. Out comes the trusty Braun Aromamaster.

The Source of Tart Tatin

Suvir, I live in New York City. The best TT I've had in Paris was at a bistro in the 7th called Au Petit Tonneau: 20 rue Surcouf. open every day. Metro La Tour Marbourg Tel: 01 47 05 09 01 The place is run by Mme. Ginette Boyer who prepares cuisine de femme. Her mushroom dishes are not to be missed. The omelettes, brouillade of mushrooms and scrambled eggs are delicious. The Tart Tatin was among the best I've had. So too is the clafoutis. This is a small, charming place that could easily become a favorite. You probably know most of the following, but here is the way I make Tart Tatin. My recipe for TT is based largely on Julia Childs. I use a 9" or 11" copper, tin lined TT pan. Mostly I use granny smith apples, sometimes golden delicious. Make the dough according to Child's recipe for basic pate sable. Wrap in plastic and place in refrigerator. (in a pinch I use Pillsbury Pie Crusts!) For the caramel, I melt 8 tbs of butter (Normandy Butter is best) and one cup of vanilla sugar (I keep five pounds of this in a tin) in the pan and cook over moderately high heat until the caramel is the color I want. Dark but not too dark. Deeper than tan but not earth color. Stir while cooking to see the color at the bottom. (KEY STEP) Take the pan off the heat and set it in a shallow pan in cold water to stop the cooking. The caramel is done. Oven is preheated to 425 degrees while this is going on. The apples are peeled, cored and sliced into eights, except for one which is just cut in two horizontally. The apple pieces are macerated in a large bowl with 1/2 cup of vanilla sugar, the juice from one large lemon, lemon zest and some fresh nutmeg and a sprinking of cinnamon. Stir them occasionally to make sure they are all coated with the sugar/lemon juice/apple water mixture. Actually I do the apples first so they macerate while I am making the caramel. After about 30-45 minutes, drain the apples and arrange them to your aesthetic taste on the now hard caramel. Place the whole cut apple in the center and arrange the slices like a spoke around it. Two or three layers deep. Remember you are looking at the bottom, so if you want a pattern, it must be build "upside down". Place the pan on stove top and cook over moderate heat, covered, until the apples are soft and have absorbed the butter and sugar. (about 20-25 minutes). Baste with a bulb baster from time time to cover the apples with the molten caramel. Remove from heat. Take the dough circle (made according to Child's recipe for pate sable) and place over the apples. Cut small holes for steam to escape. Place in preheated over for 20-25 minutes, or until the crust is golden and hard. Remove from oven. The flip: Place the pie pan on a small cutting board or flat cookie sheet. Place a large serving plate over the pie pan. Using mits, hold the top plate tightly against the pan, place your other hand on the bottom of the cutting board and turn the whole shebang over. Lift the hot pie pan off by inserting a knife under the edge, careful not to pull apples off with it. Let cool somewhat and swerve (having consumed 1/2 bottle of wine while cooking) with creme frais. How does this compare with your recipe? Oh boy, I'm going to have to make one this weekend!

Suivr, I share your passion for Tart Tatin. My first taste was at a bistro near the Marais, called A l'Impasse (Chez Robert) following a legendary serving of "Didi's" blanquette de veaux. I went nuts for it and spent weeks trying to perfect the technique. After about twenty attempts, I got it down. Now I'm a happy camper! I can't think of a more enjoyable dessert than a perfect TT with good creme frais and a glass of sauterne. I had some at the source in Lamothe Beuvron at the Hotel where it supposedly originated. It was very, very good. I bought eight engraved saucers from the hotel that are reserved for serving this great dish.

John, if I gave you directions would you drive your van into my driveway after one of your visits to Germany?