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Digest: San Francisco Chronicle Food Section for Wednesday, November 16, 2005
SPECIAL THANKSGIVING ISSUE
Mix & match feast, Miriam Morgan
Take a turkey, then pick your trimmings from a palette of 30 multicultural recipes
This year, we've included more ideas than ever. You'll find five recipes in each of six categories -- appetizers, condiments, dressings, vegetables, potatoes and dessert -- so you can mix and match for a truly Northern California menu.
Don't want to cook?, Rachel Marshall
Order dinners to go!
Chronicle Classic: Best Way Brined Turkey
Recipes:
Best Way Brined Turkey
Gravy for Brined Turkey
How to prepare a stuffed turkey:
Roasting times for stuffed bird
Taster’s Choice, Carol Ness
Sparkling Martinelli's apple juices top the list
New broths, stocks join lineup, Rachel Marshall
"Two new locally produced options for stock and broth are on supermarket shelves for cooks this holiday season."
Planning for Thanksgiving, Lynne Char Bennett
"This list, while not exactly a step-by-step guide, lays out some basic planning tips and a schedule for getting dinner on the table."
Turkey breast for a smaller feast, Amanda Gold
"The benefits of cooking a turkey breast are multifaceted."
Recipe:
Wine-Braised Turkey Breast
Tips on buying, storing and stuffing turkey
"Here's a short overview of what cooks -- experienced as well as novice -- usually want to know about getting ready for the big meal."
Recipes:
Vegetarian Bread Dressing with Apples, Wild Mushrooms & Walnuts
Fig & Prosciutto Cornbread Stuffing Muffins
Chorizo Dressing
Dirty Rice Dressing
Tortilla Souffle Dressing
Recipes:
Red Pepper Marmalade
Citrus-Cranberry Sauce
Fresh Cranberry-Mint Chutney
Red Wine Pear & Applesauce
Spiced Baked Orange Slices
Recipes:
Edamame with Sweet Chile Dipping Sauce
Cumin-Spiced Almonds
Prosciutto Pinwheels
Libyan Spicy Pumpkin Dip
Spicy Arugula Salad with Pumpkin-Crusted Brie
Recipes:
Brussels Sprouts with Mustard-Caper Butter
Winter Vegetable Cobbler
Braised Napa Cabbage with Shiitake Mushrooms
Acorn Squash Charmoula
Broccoli Rabe with Pancetta & Parmesan
DESSERTS, Flo Braker
Traditional holiday desserts take on a fresh look
Recipes:
Dried Fruit-Nut Florentine Triangle Cookies
Pumpkin Pots de Creme
Rustic Pecan Tart with Bourbon Whipped Cream
Free-form Apple Pie with Quince Paste
Pumpkin Pie
Best Way Piecrust
Recipes:
Pumpkin Drop Biscuits with Chile-Honey Butter
Warm Sweet Potato & Apple Salad
Best Way Mashed Potatoes
Wild Rice with Dried Cherries & Toasted Pecans
Sweet Potato Brulee
Best Way Piecrust
Wines to grace your Thanksgiving table, W. Blake Gray
Wine selections for the Thanksgiving feast.
"Got a last-minute turkey question or need some fast ideas? Try these hot lines and Web sites..."
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Every year for 5-6 years I'd modify the herbs and spices in the brine. I threw in tons of ginger, juniper, cinnamon, star anise, 5 spice, etc. Every year, though, I'd find that the brine pretty much contributed nothing but saltiness and juiciness. So, two years ago I just did a simple salt and sugar brine and relied on the rub to add flavor.
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Well...ortolan of course.
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Here in San Francisco, the LWL contingent can be found at The Rotunda restaurant at Neiman Marcus. No one I know, of course, has ever been part of that exalted group since, well, all of my acquaintances have to work for a living.
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It's the chewing gum thing, it doesn't lose it's flavour you do.
Really? I had no idea. Does that mean if I put half-chewed gum back in my mouth it will taste fine again?
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This guy is seriously deluded. Celebrity anythings usually get more people interested in the profession, not less. I suspect Mikeycook's theory is closer to the actual truth. My sister's fiance taught at a Culinary Academy and often spoke of the 2nd career people who, due to a layoff or dotcom stock options, entered culinary school thinking it would be a cool thing to do. The reality of all the hard work and long hours was often quite a blow. He told me he doubted if even a fraction of them would actually end up as chefs. We've had such a booming mainstream interest in food over the last decade that it was bound to peak eventually.
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In your basic uncreative restaurant, the problem is that most every entree will be structurally the same: a large piece of animal protein with a sauce, accompanied by some number of vegetable and starch garnishes.
This has always been my conclusion as to why appetizers are frequently more interesting than entrees. I am one of those people who have taken to ordering a few appetizers in lieu of a single entree at many restaurants. If I do order an entree it's often due to the sides as much as the main entree. There are only so many ways to do a slab of protein, given its size, so the supporting players can easily steal the show.
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it's common courtesy and in a gentler age (non-electronically) one would not have earned the right to be listened to if one did not provide details of who one was.
Understood. But in the old days the odds of you having any sort of discussion with someone you were not already acquainted with was pretty slim. At a cocktail party you'd be face to face; written correspondence via post would not be possible unless you had some awareness of the person with whom you were writing. In the Internet age, though, one cannot first vet one's companions in conversation. The lovely thing about it is that I've "met" many people I consider good friends. The downside is that I've also "met" many people who later on made me thankful they lived across the country. I would not trade the stimulating discussion or the instant intimacy of the Internet for anything, but I also recognize that it means I expose myself to people I often know very little about. Hence the anonymity.
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Hest,
When you plate family style.. Is there a special bowl or story behind the pot you use.. Or anything special about what you cook.. What type of food do you make.. Whats the thing you make that gets the best compliments
It's mainly Chinese food, so that means stir-fried meat on a bed of pretty greens, or extra embellishments such decorative slivers of red pepper of the sort I'd never eat myself. If I cook for company using a Chinese clay pot I'll usually bring that straight to the to table, since the rustic shape looks so nice. My favorite Chinese dish for guests is my dad's catfish steamed with black bean sauce, ginger, and scallions. Easy to make, attractive, but with a wonderful flavor.
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As someone who has visited a whole lot of forums in my time, I would really argue against any effort to force individual contributors to post with their real names. It is too easily to look someone up on the Internet, and too easy for one's private interests and Internet discourses to be found by one's real life acquaintances. Plus, given the sometimes heated exchanges on the Internet, it makes it too easy for an online enemy to do real life damage.
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Thank you to Daniel Patterson for clarifying his position. I too agree that it was a very well-written piece. I've complained a number of times to my husband that I wished I didn't have to travel to Chicago to eat at a place like Alinea.
However, though I think it's easy to blame restaurants for the lack of diversity in the Bay Area, we can't discount the customers. The "innovative" restaurants--such as Antidote in Sausalito--have traditionally done rather poorly. The success of both TFL and Manresa does show that customers are willing to branch out a bit, but still within certain confines of taste. TFL and Manresa both create dishes that *look* different but I wouldn't say they either one challenges the customer's taste buds. What would it take for a more innovative restaurant to succeed?
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I find this thread interesting because out here in CA I've been finding that many of the new upscale raw bar/seafood restaurants have been serving what I just thought of as a runny version of New England chowder. I had no idea that broth-based chowder was traditional in RI. I suspect these seafood restaurants think a broth-based clam chowder is more "refined" than a thick New England or a Manhattan.
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You must be kidding. I only plate when we have company or for special occasions. Otherwise we eat family style or I just throw the food onto plates. When I make one-dish meals, such as pasta, we just throw the food into big bowls.
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Splash pages are evil. There's nothing more annoying than having to sit through one while it loads when all I want is a phone number or directions.
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Oh, I was so hoping the news would be better! I'll continue praying for her health.
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Digest: San Francisco Chronicle Food Section for Wednesday, October 26, 2005
Was It Something I Ate?, Janet Fletcher
What to do if you think a restaurant meal has made you sick
What to do if you think you have food poisoning, Janet Fletcher, Kristen Townsend
"If you believe you have been sickened by a restaurant meal, health authorities advise alerting the establishment and calling the health department of the county where the restaurant is located; see accompaying phone numbers."
FROM SOUTH TO NORTH, Jacqueline Higuera McMahan
Bread for the dead
Recipe:
Day of the Dead Bread
Warm up to butternut squash, Morgan Barnes
"The transition from summer to fall is made easier by focusing on all delicious fall and winter vegetables coming into season, especially butternut squash."
Recipe:
Roasted Squash & Poblano Chile Enchiladas
- Pasta sauces with rich payoffs
- MARKET WATCH / Pears, pumpkins and pomegranates
- DISCOVERIES / Spices in smaller doses
- SHOPPING CART / Fresh mozzarella logs
Taster’s Choice, Carol Ness
Trader Joe's rice crackers pack the right crunch
The Working Cook, Tara Duggan
Childhood favorites receive quick and simple makeovers
Recipes:
Pasta with Chickpeas
Chickpea Vegetable Stew with Couscous
Cake from a can? Start with fruit cocktail, Karola Saekel
Recipe:
Fruit Cocktail Cake
The Inside Scoop, GraceAnn Walden
Berkeley's beloved Ozzie's gets a new lease on life...sale of San Francisco's Campton Place...Pizza Antica in Mill Valley...Fish reopening...N.V. Restaurant & Lounge.
Medrich offers a can-do approach, Karola Saekel
Chocolate Holidays has 50-plus recipes for any and all delicious occasions.
Chocolatiers challenge home cooks to be pros, Karola Saekel
In their new book, Chocolate Obsession, Michael Recchiuti and Fran Gage tell all you ever wanted to know about chocolate, and then some.
- Exhibition to focus on family meal
- Marketplace festival
- Kitsch-In
- Pasta sauces with rich payoffs
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Well, there's definitely cultural and regional differences, but if you want broad generalizations I think your wife's comment is closer to the truth when it comes to veggies than with fruit. I'm Cantonese, so traditionally we never eat veggies raw. It always takes a bit for my relatives to learn to like salads or crudites---if they ever do. In comparision to my relatives, Americans defintely eat raw veggies more often.
With fruit, though, I think that you'll find that it's eaten as much raw as it is cooked, and I actually suspect that in every day life fruit is eaten MORE often raw than cooked.
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Ludja, what a great, evocative report. It was lovely seeing you, even if we didn't get much of a chance to chat!
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But did they taste good? ;-)
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Like Winesonoma, I bought a heritage turkey last year. I think it was around $12lbs and cost about $50.
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I love the taste of ham ha and fu yu, so that's how I do my amaranth and ong choi. I've actually starting using more fu yu than ham ha, mainly because the cleaner taste is becoming more preferable. Whenever I have those veggies without ham ha or fu yu they taste too bland now. My taste buds have just become so corrupted!
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Digest: San Francisco Chronicle Food Section for Wednesday, September 29, 2005
Mama knows best when it comes to kugel, Amanda Gold
"Kugel, a baked casserole, generally of noodles, can be sweet or savory, topped with cereal, studded with raisins or other fruit, or as simple as noodles, eggs and butter."
Recipes:
Gold Family Noodle Pudding
Brad Levy's Kugel
Jerusalem Peppery Kugel
A grand old Grill, Amanda Berne
After 155 years, San Francisco's iconic restaurant still packs them in
Recipes:
Hangtown Fry
Fillet of Sole All'Agro
THE INSIDE SCOOP, Amanda Berne
Paul Bertolli leaves Oliveto
THE WORKING COOK, Tara Duggan
Greek salad puts a taste of summer on the fall table
Recipes:
Greek Salad
Seared Ahi Tuna
Grilled Tuna Steaks
Kabochas usher in a new season, Linda Furiya
"A kind of pumpkin that is dearest to my heart is a small, squat-shaped Japanese variety called kabocha."
Recipe:
Savory Japanese pumpkin
John Wayne's favorite casserole rides again, Karola Sakel
"Last week's request for a green chile and cheese casserole, which Edith Witherspoon recalled as "Duke's Favorite," turns out to be a reputed culinary indulgence of the macho movie idol."
Recipe:
The Duke's Favorite Cheese Casserole
A roundup of where to dine around the Bay Area, Jennifer Tomaro, Carol Ness, Amanda Gold, Dave Murphy
Capsules of reviews that ran in recent editions East Bay Life, Marin-Sonoma-Napa Friday and Peninsula Friday.
WHAT'S NEW, Amanda Berne, Amanda Gold, Tara Duggan
Dinner in bed
More upcoming fundraisers include some benefits for victims of Hurricane Katrina.
It's-It lover questions original recipe
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Thanks for the update, Fistfulla. I continue to hold your wife in my thoughts and hope she makes a full recovery.
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Digest: San Francisco Chronicle Food Section for Wednesday, September 14, 2005
FLAVORS OF MOROCCO, Janet Fletcher
Mourad Lahlou updates his culture's love affair with September's peppers, eggplant and tomatoes
Recipes:
Moroccan Eggplant Soup with Za'atar Croutons
Smoky Eggplant Mousse with Paprika
Moroccan Spiced Tomato Jam
Grilled Pepper Salad with Preserved Lemons
Moroccan Stuffed Peppers
A magnificent melon baller obsession, Marlena Spieler
I was rifling through my cutlery drawer recently, searching for the elusive vegetable peeler in a tangle of tools, when suddenly I saw my melon baller.
THE INSIDE SCOOP, GraceAnn Walden
Rigo expands his empire
* Tiki torches light up SoMa
* Shell game
* Flights of fromage
* You gotta have heart
* Maman's siblings
Taster's Choice, Carol Ness
C&W takes top honors in frozen green bean lineup
THE WORKING COOK, Tara Duggan
For that great silky texture, slow-roast that salmon fillet
Upcoming fundraisers include some benefits for victims of Hurricane Katrina.
Because of a production error, several recipes in last Wednesday's "Culinary Pioneers" story were missing. Here are the recipes, including the master recipe for chef Michael Mina's Dover sole that was printed.
Recipes:
Michael Mina's Dover Sole With Crab Brandade, Beurre Blanc & Haricot Verts
Crab Brandade
Haricot Verts with Horseradish Cream
Dijon Beurre Blanc
Book Signings, Including the Chez Panisse Event
in An eG Spotlight Conversation with Paula Wolfert
Posted
Just back from a blissful meal at Chez Panisse, featuring dishes from Paula's cookbook.
Paula, thank you again for a lovely evening; the dishes were scrumptious though we were unable to take pictures. Would you happen to have any photos of the Chez Panisse dishes?