Bux

In mid June, it will have to be Annecy. It's the one that's open in the summer. Although Veyrat is at least the third chef to have six stars at once, it could be argued that he doesn't operate two restaurants at once and just moves his staff back and forth seasonally as a shepherd does. I'm unclear as to whether Nathan is looking to make the drive from Arles to Annecy in one day and just looking for a place to have lunch, or if he's looking for suggestions to break the trip and have dinner. "Bistros or brasseries along the Rhone valley" suggest he's not looking for a stopover worth a detour, but that's not entirely clear.

I don't think there's anyplace one would go in black tie just to eat dinner. Wherever you go in black tie, an assumption would be made that you're dressing for some event after dinner, unless you're eating very late and it might be assumed you were coming from some party. Although it's very hard to overdress in NY, I think it's quite easy to be spotted as a tourist by the way you overdress.

That's a very interesting shop. It's window display with all sorts of food stuffs and wines caught our eye the first time we passed it and it remains a landmark for us. As crowded as it can get on occasion, we've spent time browsing the stock as well as the window. It seems to be an institution from another time. Much of the stock has to be retrieved, by clerks behind the counter, from wherever it's kept. One also has to pay at a cashier before claiming one's groceries. On a busy day at a busy time you get to wait in two lines, which is not to imply that Spaniards wait in line in quite the same way as the British do. In spite of that, or maybe because of it, the place had it's charms.

One was the Mercat Sant Antoni. The other was on Mallorca between Casanova and Villarroel, a block away from a big hospital. I don't know its name. Unfortuantely the map on which it appears is not of sufficient scale for Michelin We happened to pass it when going to the car rental place one trip. We don't pass markets that easily, so we checked it out.

If I'm not mistaken, the reason he almost went belly up was probably because of the (borrowed) money he spent on renovating that place. I also believe he had the bank in a poor position, as it was clear that without his cooking, there was no way that place was ever going to turn a profit. Thus they seemed to have no choice other than to extend his loan. At least that's the way I heard it.

I'm pretty sure I was told to wear jacket and tie at Picholine when I dined there recently. By whom? I'm sometimes told to weat a jacket and tie, but it's usually my wife who's speaking. I haven't been to Picholine in a while. It's a pretty spiffy place, but I'd doubt a tie is required.

I suppose this thread has already been done to death, but I'm wondering if there are any restaurants left in NYC that absolutely require a tie. There are many where the vast majority of men will be wearing ties, but once they make the exception, it's clearly no longer a requirement. Dress in restaurants, even the fanciest most formal restaurants is getting more casual. This is a trend I've found in Europe as well. I find that if I base my dress on what I remember people wearing a couple of years ago, I'll be over dressed. There are a handful of restaurants at which I'd wear a tie. I suppose le Bernardin is one. I reserve the right to change my mind next time. It also may depend upon who else is with me. The odds are that I'd be unlikely to wear a tie at either Veritas of Babbo, particularly at Babbo.

Johnathan, do you think the peppery burn is from youth? I think it may be from the variety of olives used. We have a favorite Sicilian producer whose oils we get here in NY. They offer a few single olive varieties and at least one blend. I like the single variety oils. Two of them are similar, both are fruity, but one is slightly fruitier than the other and the other has a decidedly hotter pepper finish to the taste. I don't find it unpleasant at all and actually prefer it for some foods. In any event, I don't think age is the sole factor, if it's a factor. I appreciate your search for variety. As with wines, I prefer to go through a variety of oils during the year, although we return to favorites as the new oils start to come in at the end of the year. Have you thought of getting recommendations from restaurants in the area? Are they generally involved enough in choosing their oils?

It's luxe, but have you seen Verat's little inn on the lake?

An understatement if there ever was one. Oddly enough, I found the interior much more pleasing the second time we were there. I've tried to figure out why and I think it was because there was a large table serving what looked like a company meeting. That sort of thing never lends a graceful air to the dining room. We made our second visit just a few weeks ago on our way in to Madrid and now that Las Rejas had three soles from Campsa, the room was full of what appeared to be gourmet diners, at least on a Saturday at lunch. A provincial Manhattanite such as myself finds it hard to grasp the concept of driving out of the city center to dine, let alone 100 miles for lunch, but Las Rejas is that kind of destination restaurant. France has its share of excellent restaurants in out of the way places and small towns, but nothing to compare with dreary Las Pendroñeras. It's an amazing site for such a restaurant. Your tasting menu sounds much like ours with a few variations. I'll agree that the white cheese soup was a solid success and rather a surprise. We had a similar soup on the menu last year and it too made a big impression on us. At the tine we wondered about its relationship with traditional Spanish food. It seemed highly original to the restaurant, but it also seemed a preparation we'd be even more surprised to see in France or the US. Still it was hard to say it was Spanish in feeling as it was nothing like what we've had in the Pais Vasco, Catalunya, Madrid, or elsewhere. I think I'd also say Manolo is not only highly talented and creative, but that his food is very much his and not part of some group. At the same time, we found it very accessible in terms of flavor. One didn't have to think about the food to get it, but there was the sense at times that as an outsider not very familiar with traditional Spanish food, we didn't get some deconstructive references. After our first visit last year, the element of surprise was not there and that may have contributed to the fact that we felt last year's meal may have been even more successful than this year's visit. There were a few dishes that were repeated, some with variations and some that I would really have loved to have had in even larger portions. Many tasting portions won't work as full portions, but a lot of what Manolo does seems to be both intense and creative enough to work impressively as a small portion, but still convey the kind of solid down home satisfaction that would enable one to finish a large bowl and want more. Overall, the balance and orchestration of our meals was a key to their success, but I felt I could also be satisfied with three or four larger courses and keep the same balance. I think I'd like to come back to this discussion when I have some more time.

The Imperial Palace is pretty nice. If you'd prefer to stay both nights at Veyrat, I assume price is no object, thus I'd suggest you should get a room with a terrace on the lakeside, or at least a view of the lake. The rooms are simple and modern, but it's a nice comfortable place and the lakeside views are wonderful. I hear Veyrat's food has changed a lot since I've been there, but it was a fabulous meal for us at the time. Unfortunately our other meal in Annecy was chosen at random and not memorable.

I don't live in Barcelona and don't shop, except as a tourist looking for things I can take back to the states--aged cheese, canned or preserved fish, piquillo peppers in jars, etc.--but I've been impressed by the other two markets I've seen in Barcelona and will usually check out any large covered market if I'm near one. They're well marked on the maps in the Michelin Guia Roja. That's another good use for that guide.

My understanding is that in terms of saturated, unsaturated, polysaturated and monosaturated fats, duck fat is more like olive oil than it is like butter or pork fat. This holds true for goose fat as well. If both olive oil and butter are okay, I would expect duck fat should be as well.

That's an interesting issue and I one I didn't think about as a parent. Eating meat was just something I took for granted. We cut up most of our chickens, but the rest of the meat came neatly butchered. As a child, our daughter went to a summer camp where they raised crops and animals. I believe the chickens were slaughtered for food and possibly the lambs. The older kids cared for and tended to those animals. I know she came home one summer with a blue ribbon for showing sheep at the country fair, though it's not something that brings a lot of cred' in the 'hood. My sister tells a story about my niece who was taken to a petting zoo not long after having had leg of lamb for dinner. As the story goes, my niece was intent on finding a three legged lamb. I believe she was about four at the time.

I'd have to think long and hard about it, but I generally feel the best bargains are at the high and low ends. The tavern room at Gramercy Tavern has always been a standout value in terms of food and certainly no less a value when you take the service into consideration.

The article referred to what happened in France: "I've never heard of a chef going into a deep depression — or killing himself — after losing a star, as has happened after Michelin demotions in France." Yes of course in France. I was referring to France. I could rephrase my question and comment as: "Has a chef ever committed suicide in France after losing a star as he says? Surely he's not referring to Loiseau, of the Hôtel de la Côte d'Or in Saulieu, France, who took his life amid rumors that he might be losing a star, but only after learning that he had not lost a star." As I recall, one of the reasons Michelin released an early report on the starred restaurants was precisely because so many rumors were flying around. I understand he was referring to France, but just because he said it happened, it doesn't mean it has. Just because I questioned him, doesn't mean he's wrong, but so many people have repeated rumors and untruths about Michelin stars and one of them has been that Loiseau comitted suicide after learning he lost a star. That rumor was picked up by news services immediately and spread faster and further than the retractions that followed, as I recall.

Are Chili's, Outback, etc. really a dining "destination" for a segment of the public?

I think that was the point--restaurant critic as self absorbed and unprofessional bitch only intent on getting served and serviced like the star she thinks she is. It looked like the kind of dish that might be right up her alley. Having what others can't have is what gets her out of bed in the morning and in bed at night. I don't know anyone exactly like that and I'll bet that at best (or worst?) it's a composite of a few people's worst traits and they may not all be restaurant critics. I thought it was an over the top character, but maybe some chef knows the real life version. There were a few over the top characters in the film, but as I've know a few of their type, maybe the rest exist in real life as well.

You took the words right out of my mouth. At least we can't assume he gets his stories here. I thought it was strange to dwell so much on the idea of a single volume covering the US. It's not like Michelin has a single volume covering all of Europe. A brief comparison of size should have killed that idea, although I suppose a case could be made that the complete listing of restaurants qualified to be in the guide might actually result in a smaller guide for the US than for a small country like France. In truth, the French Guide doesn't claim to include all the worthwhile restaurants in France. It's only a guide to help you find a satisfactory restaurant wherever you are in France. If there are ten satisfactory restaurants in a town, they may only list three or four. Nevertheless, I thought it was an excellent article with a few other flaws. Has a chef ever committed suicide after losing a star as he says? Surely he's not referring to Loiseau who took his life after learning that he had not lost a star. His criticism of the usefulness of Zagat reviews stops far short of hitting the target. It's quite possible for a minor restaurant to get a higher number than far better restaurant simply because both may serve totally different markets and the scale allowed for ranking entries doesn't allow for much difference, so everyone's favorite gets a "3" no matter what. I'm confident there are no Michelin inspectors who are as totally ignorant about food at all levels as there are Zagat Survey submitters and a top vote for a mediocre restaurant never gets averaged out if the place is never frequented by knowing voters. It's misleading to speak of Guerard in Eugénie-les-Bains as an excellent restaurant in a small town as if the town supports the restaurant. The little town surrounds the luxury resort spa and is supported by it. In fact, one could far more easily and accurately describe the French Laundry as just being a place in Yountville. For me, the most interesting line in the article was when Shane O'Flaherty, vice president of the Mobil travel guides, was quoted as saying "We look at the overall dining experience. The culinary aspect is only part of that." From a thread about the guides on eGullet, one could easily get the impression that it was a small part of their interest and the one their inspectors are largely unqualified to judge. That makes the Mobil guides a far cry from the Michelin guides where the culinary aspect is considered the raison d'être for a restaurant's existence. It may not guarantee three stars, but there are no stars without it.

We stopped by there late one morning when we were in Madrid. Rogelio has it well pegged. To be fair it was too early for lunch and they were still stocking the display case so we didn't get to give the food a fair try. We split one of those little marinated tuna with romescu sauce sandwiches everyone is praising and it was very good, but by and large, the food offerings didn't seem like they'd make the place much of a destination. On the other hand, it's probably going to be handly for people in the neighborhood or those using the hotel. The interior is either striking or garish depending on your taste and esthetic. At any rate it's predominantly green and of a shade that's more reminiscent of plastic than nature. I found the chairs relatively uncomfortable and flexible enough for me not to bet they'd last long under heavy use. There are two large flat screen TVs. I don't recall hearing sound from either display. One screen featured Bloomberg News and the other had some food and travel feature with a very young Marc Veyrat. I wonder if that screen always features a food related program and if it was closed circuit or cable. I think you had to know it was an Adria project to pay it a whole lot of attention. A visit to the market in Chamartín a little earlier was far more interesting and rewarding as was La Oleoteca de "El Olivio" (C/. Juan Ramón Jiménez, 37) not too far away.

The Times, its individual reviewers, and the fact that they report the number of stars long after a new reviewer with his or her, own standards and relativity scale, are long gone from the scene all contribute to this misunderstanding. Hesser may be a temporary reviewer, but her marks may stand for a long time for some restaurants. Certainly they'll stand long after the next critic establshes his own yardstick just as some "current" ratings date back to Ruth Reichl's bell curve. Confusion may be a better term than misunderstanding. The conversation is off topic in a sense, but it helps readers to understand that not all restaurants have been judged by the same standards.

"Satisfactory" seemed to be a low rating out of line with the superlatives scattered throughout the review, but what she's saying is that they're doing a great job at what they're doing, but they're not aiming for the stars. I haven't been there and can't assess her assessment of the food or of the restaurant, but the review is of a piece with the grade and text in agreement. We have trouble with the concept of "excellence" and don't understand that a three star hamburger is not an equivalent of a three star meal in a haute cuisine restaurant. The nature of this review is that this is a great place to consider if you're not looking for a starred meal. It's a great place assuming any place whose seasoning comes from two jars can be great. The stars as already awarded by various reviewers over the past few years are thoroughly out of line with each other, but this review by itself, might serve as a good restart for the system. It would require some understanding of what's possible at the top and require some appreciation of those restaurants at the top. It would also require readers to read reviews and not just look at the ratings.

I'm inclined to support both daemon and pedro's lines of reply. I think pedro hits the nail on the head when saying "What I wouldn't forgive is that what they offer is not of pristine quality, rather than choosing this or that range of products." There was a time when diners went to three star restaurants and ordered pristine oysters. Today that may be had without going to a restaurant with the most talented chef and brigade and the focus is on what the chef and his team can do, with an emphasis on creativity. In regard to this change, Adria represents the far reach. As such an avant gardiste, his mission may be to use the most pristine quality of each ingredient he chooses to use, but not to search out and use the most expensive ingredients. Caviar and foie gras are not inherently better than pig's feet and tripe. They are just what we have traditionally come to expect on the table when we're already paying for the overhead of having the most talented chef and kitchen staff. There's an economy of the kitchen at El Bulli which Adria seems to pass on to his diners. There appears to be an endless army of cooks willing to stage at El Bulli for little or no compensation. I would understand it if Adria wanted to draw diners to his rare talent and not just to rare ingredients. His is more and more a cuisine of ideas and of transformation. Why select the rarest of ingredients and transform them into something else?

Go forth and spread the gospel, but I'd add a request for them to be sure to have the site easily navagable and to have both a site map and home page that were evidence of what one would find on the site as well as how to get to it. Oh yes, and keep those menus up to date, as hard as that may be.

Lovely. Now if you could get us a taste ...