Judith Gebhart

We are faithful visitors to the exquisite Milwaukee Art Museum, the white colored architectural masterpiece of Santiago Calatrava. Chicago should have hired Calatrava for it's modern art museum. Chicago failed us. Milwaukee did not. When we visit Milwaukee at least 3-4 times per year, we no longer have a restaurant that offers an exceptional dining experience. Sanford fired their most creative chef! Sanford is no longer a culinary destination for us. We are ecstatic about our hotel--the Metro--and the museum! Is there a great, creative Milwaukee restaurant?? Our dining experience at Bacchus was decent but not memorable. Any suggestions for a unique dining experience and a creative chef? Judith Gebhart

Sounds good! I'm already going to Moto on my June trip, looking for a second place the night before, was thinking Spring or Kevin, may have to consider this place now. ← I would advocate Schwa, Alinea and Moto for any visitor coming to Chicago for an introduction to CHicago's finest and newest culinary talents. Spring is also an excellent choice. Try the very best fine dining sites you can afford! This choice will also guarantee a magnificent dining experience. Schwa will NOT break the bank and is an amazing value in CHicago. So is Spring which is more expensive than Schwa. Now Moto and Alinea can be more expensive. You can ultimately dine at the best of both. If you have one meal at both establishments is it worth it?? YES!! Yes without qualification. Your tab will be in excess of $200. Judith Gebhart

Why is Pedro reviewing this restaurant again? It is apparent that Santi has not altered his menu since last year. I fail to comprehend why this is a culinary item for this forum?? Judith Gebhart

Thank you, Culinista. Your review of Juan M Arzak's talents before Elena's presence in the kitchen as Juan's protege, is very accurate! Infrequent Spanish diners whatever their country's allegiance, have little perspective about food in either Cataluyna or the Basque country.Your description of Andoni's talents is so very sure-footed. Your culinary assessment is also without debate. I commend your perspicasity. Could you let us know about your extraordinary wisdom about vaious chefs and their talents? Judith Gebhart

This does sound interesting. Do you have any more detail on it? ← One major qualifier here: My grasp of Castilian Spanish is shaky at best, and Ferran's in particular I find hard to follow, especially since the mike kept flickering--and I was in the front row. If anyone finds an error in my description of his comments, I'd be grateful. Ferran himself did not go into too much detail, but he made a concerted effort to include seemingly simple demonstrations with implications outside the usual gastrotech eyepoppers that so enthrall the crowd. For instance, he deep-fried mackerel innards and spoke of stewing chicken wing tendons to create new foods from cheap, everyday parts normally overlooked. It was my impression that the crowd didn't seem to know what to make of this unexpected deviation from the gastrotech dog-and-pony extravaganza, admittedly a brief part of the presentation that soon swung back into blowing huge bubbles and sphericizing everything. However, I think this thrifty concern for finding new ways to avoid waste and discover new flavors was one of the "important" techniques in our day and age. Another comment that I found interesting was that Ferran backed off a little from his previous stance (in a private conversation in about 2000) that he is interested only in pure innovation, which he defined as avoiding copying. I am not sure if he was referring to a defense of his own cuisine, which has been criticized for plagiarizing Japanese and other techniques, or it was a comment about the need to curb unbridled and bad-tasting creative wildness in the search for culinary innovation. Chefs are like musicians--not every great performer is cut out to be a composer. Second, he defended his use of artificial or industrial ingredients. In the first point, he said that if a surgeon adopted cutting-edge techniques developed by someone else, no one would ask him to justify why he was "imitating" another. In the second, he pointed out that practically every domesticated animal or cultivated ingredient is not "natural" since it has been manipulated by humans for a very long time. (I would add that we have been adding chemicals and preservatives like salt forever.) During Ferran's presentation, he repeatedly said that this or that technique was suitable for prepraring for any number of people, including huge banquets of 1,000. I felt it was interesting that his mind seems to be turning to more and more mass-replicable food, although many of his techniques remain so technically difficult that even his virtuoso right-hand guy Oriol failed several times. The thought occurred to me that most of these techniques are almost designed to continue widening the gap between home and restaurant cooking. That said, I bought one of those cool sphericization kits and brought it home to play. I was in BCN for an unrelated roundtable discussion among foreign journalists for a Catalan audience (!!!) about how contemporary Calalan cooking can be defined and how it is seen abroad. Catalans are justly proud of having claim to the world's most important chef and are enjoying the media attention, but they are concerned that outsiders are largely unaware of or dismissive of traditional or non-Ferran Catalan cuisines. I realized in the course of the discussion (but was perhaps unable to explain in my pidgin castellano) that for all its tsunami effect on international kitchen technology, El Bulli has for the most part not transmitted a single integral, signature dish abroad. His ideas have caught on because people seized on his techniques and applied them to their own native dishes. What is now called modern Catalan (or, even worse for the local hosts, Spanish) cooking is really a compendium of vanguardist kitchen techniques, not an idiomatic regional cuisine that is recognized by your average foreigner. In Catalunya, for example, people are re-inventing the suquet, the escudella, escalivada, cap i pota, etc, but most of these words remain gibberish to my non-eGullet general readership. I didn't know how to break it to my Catalan friends, but the nuances of Catalan cuisine remain almost unknown among my husband's business associates, for example. That reflects more on our own abiding ignorance and is no reflection at all on the inherent greatness of Catalan culture. Everyone by now has heard of Ferran, however. Perhaps Ferran is sucking too much oxygen for the comfort of his more nationalistic compatriots? Some of the chefs in the roundtable audience (including some very notable names) were sounding distinctly Salieri to Ferran's Amadeus. In a way, Catalans might be grateful to be spared seeing their wonderful dishes bastardized in the manner that bolognese tagliatelle, paella, and sushi have been as they transitioned into mass-market international cuisine. However, those who want to create a rigid definition of "authentic Catalan" cuisine--no doubt as another battlefield of modern identity politics--have a lost cause. All the great, non-subsistence cuisines got that way from constant enriching contact with foreign influences--the tomato, potato, and chocolate are all cases in point. Ferran Agullo' in the "Llibre de la Cuina Catalana" said that the very power of Catalan cuisine resided in its ability to assimulate influence. Another writer, Josep Pla, said cuisine was landscape in a pot. We should remember that while a river looks eternal, it is always flowing from somewhere to somewhere else, and over a great deal of time, you would never recognize the place. One woman, I assume a restaurant chef, said she didn't need to have the American press come tell her how to cook. I wouldn't presume. And as long as Catalans like her feel that way, Catalan cuisine has no fear of ever losing its unique flavors and identity. ← Exquistely reported and deftly articulated, your remarkable overview to this forum is invaluable. I am truly impressed. I am also very grateful for your exceptional insight. Thank you. Judith Gebhart

Gilt is the new restaurant Marechal, a staff member of Mugaritz asked us to seek out when in NY. We have yet to visit this Mugaritz influenced chef. We are eager to hear what New Yorkers have to say about this recently reviewed February 8, 2006 eatery. Is the Spanish influence evidenced in the food? We are ardent Mugaritz supporters and frequently visit NY. Is Gilt a new, desirable destination for us to recommend to Chicago chefs and diners? We would appreciate any feedback for today. We will visit Gilt but not until later in 2006! Judith Gebhart

Your characterization of Andoni's culinary direction is exquistely and sensitively described. We are thrilled that you observed and articulated his great affinity to his terroir and his desire to replicate its flavors and textures in his food. Thank you for your astute observations.It is most unfortunate that Charlie failed to comprehend the less than stellar offer of serving a deconstructed Caesar salad. His efforts to re-interpret this old salad by deconstructing it are uninspired at best. In my recollection, Charlie has never served a Caesar salad, nor re-intrepreted this recipe in his Chicago restaurant. His efforts in Barcelona apparently failed to affirm his culinary authority. Thank you for your thoughtful report. Judith Gebhart

Thanks for the website location! I am equally interested. A firsthand report would be much appreciated. Thanks again. Judith Gebhart

In the culinary world of Barcelona today, March 6th, 2006 both Charlie Trotter of Chicago, Il. USA is sharing with Andoni Aduriz of Mugaritz a culinary journey together. Does anyone have knowledge of this event sponsored by BCN.Vanguardia? I am looking for the refernece of these two talented chefs. I cannot find any reference. Judith Gebhart

It would be enormously helpful to report just what dishes you found inedible at Mugaritz? How did you learn of Mugaritz? What do you know of his culinary efforts? Tell us of your experience in sampling various Spanish chefs? Did you order the tasting menu at Mugaritz? I would like a better understanding of what dishes were exciting to you at Arzak? A careful reading of your experience at both Arzak and Mugaritiz would be helpful. I am an unabashed supporter of Mugaritz. I have only had ONE disappointing dish at Mugaritz after 5 years of dining at this remarkable establishment. Were you informed about his "vegetable coal" dish? I would like to understand your ambivalent response. I am also a veteran supporter of Arzak. I personally think the future of modern Basque cooking is in the hands of Andoni Aduriz. There are other chefs and critics that are even more eloquent about his talents than myself. Ferran Adria's brother, Alberto has hailed Chef Aduriz as the most outstanding (cannot recall his actual comments) innovative chef in Spain today. Your detailed comments would be appreciated. I can understand having decided taste treats, preferences about preparations, and other individual proclivities. I have never heard anyone characterize a menu item or dish as inedible in any Basque fine dining restaurant. Our most recent visit to Mugaritz was February 1, 2006. It was an extraordinary dining experience. Rut Cotroneo the new sommelier is the best we have encountered to date anywhere in Spain. Her contribution to Mugaritz is phenomenal and so welcome. She comes from the Fat Duck. Her English is excellent . The depth of her wine knowledge is thrilling. She only wanted to work at Mugaritz. The fit is perfect. Mugaritz is better than ever!!! Judith Gebhart ← Hi judith We sampled the tasting menu comprising around 8 different courses. I had done a lot of research prior to the visit and had chosen Mugaritz as its chef seeemed to have an interesting philosophy towards cooking and food, similar to Michel Bras who I deeply admire. He also seems to take a scientific approach, exemplified by his stint at a liver research clinic , which I find intriguing. Not that any of that matters when assessing a meal on its merits. My only other experience with Spanish haute cuisine came the night before, when I visited Arzak. It was one of the best meals I had ever had. Every single bite was sheer poetry and I can't say that one dish was better than another, although I particularly loved the foie gras wrapped in zuchinni. The service was exemplary and the ambience was relaxed due to the predominance of locals who were dining at the restaurant. There was nothing pretentious about this restaurant which is amazing considering the greatness of the food. Whilst I enjoyed certain elements of Mugaritz I felt it was slightly contrived and did not flow. The dish that I found particularly inedible was the lambs trotters - I did manage to plough my way through it however my fellow diners put their cutlery down in unison and refused to eat more than a bite. Incidentally I don't feel that I am the first person to air such sentiments I have read other threads on this very forum regarding Mugaritz which closely mirror my own http://forums.egullet.org/index.php?showto...635&hl=mugaritz. The fish and seafood courses whilst not inedible were distinctly bland - hake above a saffron infusion was disappointing, as was sea scallops with amarynth in a clay sauce. Novel touches such as silver gilting didnt work - the silver and gelatin just sticking to your fork. It's interesting to note your thoughts on Ruth, we found her to be lovely also - she actually gave us a lift home. However we found her wine knowledge to be limited, she gave us a sweet wine she thought was dry and her knowledge outside of spanish wine seemed limited. She is young though. ← I must thank you for your response to my questions about Mugaritz and Arzak. I must add a bias about drinking only Spanish wines when dining in Spain. My enthusiam about Rut the sommelier at Mugaritz was her in depth knowledge of Spanish wines and specifically tiny vineyards with limited production. These were welcome additions to their celler and wine list. Sorry about your unhappy experience.We do share your enthusiasm for Michel Bras which we have visited yearly since 1985; Sergio of Michel Bras urged us in the late 90's to visit Berasategui which we did. Elena of Arzak urged us to visit Mugaritz a year later. We have been ardent followers of the Spanish chefs since. Judith Gebhart

The actual quote was: "for me, Andoni Luis Aduriz is the future of Spanish cooking." ← Thank you for the accurate quote which I couldn't recall. Most appreciative ASM, NY. Could you offer Alberto's complete quote and date it? Thanks so much. Judith Gebhart ← The place I read it was in the New York Times Magazine article: "The Nueva Nouvelle Cuisine, How Spain Became the New France" by Arthur Lubow, dated August 10, 2003. It reads: ← Thanks again for your help. I had forgotten that Lubow's article was the source of this quote. Too bad Lubow missed a visit to Aduriz's restaurant. Judith Gebhart

The actual quote was: "for me, Andoni Luis Aduriz is the future of Spanish cooking." ← Thank you for the accurate quote which I couldn't recall. Most appreciative ASM, NY. Could you offer Alberto's complete quote and date it? Thanks so much. Judith Gebhart

It would be enormously helpful to report just what dishes you found inedible at Mugaritz? How did you learn of Mugaritz? What do you know of his culinary efforts? Tell us of your experience in sampling various Spanish chefs? Did you order the tasting menu at Mugaritz? I would like a better understanding of what dishes were exciting to you at Arzak? A careful reading of your experience at both Arzak and Mugaritiz would be helpful. I am an unabashed supporter of Mugaritz. I have only had ONE disappointing dish at Mugaritz after 5 years of dining at this remarkable establishment. Were you informed about his "vegetable coal" dish? I would like to understand your ambivalent response. I am also a veteran supporter of Arzak. I personally think the future of modern Basque cooking is in the hands of Andoni Aduriz. There are other chefs and critics that are even more eloquent about his talents than myself. Ferran Adria's brother, Alberto has hailed Chef Aduriz as the most outstanding (cannot recall his actual comments) innovative chef in Spain today. Your detailed comments would be appreciated. I can understand having decided taste treats, preferences about preparations, and other individual proclivities. I have never heard anyone characterize a menu item or dish as inedible in any Basque fine dining restaurant. Our most recent visit to Mugaritz was February 1, 2006. It was an extraordinary dining experience. Rut Cotroneo the new sommelier is the best we have encountered to date anywhere in Spain. Her contribution to Mugaritz is phenomenal and so welcome. She comes from the Fat Duck. Her English is excellent . The depth of her wine knowledge is thrilling. She only wanted to work at Mugaritz. The fit is perfect. Mugaritz is better than ever!!! Judith Gebhart

When we visited Mugaritz restaurant in the Basque country, of Spain in February, 2006, we were informed that the Chef Paul Liebrandt who had a stint at Mugaritz under Andoni L. Aduriz the chef of Mugaritz, had a new venue in NY city. We were delighted to read the Frank Bruni review of this seemingly talented chef. Have other eGulleters' visited this new significant chef and evaluated his work? Frank Bruni's review was promising. Any comments? Judith Gebhart Administrative Note: Threads merged here.

Although I am disappointed that Roellinger, this mighty, most talented chef, failed to recieve three stars years ago, I am thrilled that he finally received the recognition that he so well deserves, even if belatedly. He is onle of our favorite chefs in France. Judith Gebhart

I know I am all over the Heartland forum but I want to be heard about the sensational abilities of Michael Carlson and Nathan Klingbail who inhabit the tiny kitchen of Schwa and guarantee an extraordinary dining experience for every visitor. Listen to all the other recorders of Schwas' talents. This is a dining destination like none other in Chicago. Be advised that these talents are going to be overworked for a long time. They are exceptional. Every educated diner will be ecstatic for this is a true dining find. Judith Gebhart

Dear Seattle: If you follow the Heartland reveiws you will see our great hurrahs for SCHWA which is a tiny dining room with enormous talents. We are Seattle, Vancouver and VI regulars ! We welcome you to Chicago. If you are dedicated diners to reasonably priced, exceptionally talented cookers, we want you to go to SCHWA on Ashland Avenue. Use my name for Brittany, she is their only server. She also takes the reservations. This is a BYOB place with two chefs both extraordinarily talented. They deserve your attention. There isn't a better priced excellent meal prepared by great talents in this city. Treat yourself and please send me your impressions. Smoke free. I hope you indulge in these chefs mighty talents. It is worth it. Judith Gebhart

We wanted to unequivically recommend El Poblet . Our misgivings about this dynamic chef are truly disturbing. RGS touted this chef as a great talent with big accolades. But, RGS, have you sampled his undercooked menu items?? This restaurant boasts an innovative menu. We would have rated this dining destination far higher had the lobster, langoustine and various shellfish been better prepared. We are disappointed with our El Poblet experience. We would like to return but only if we have some assurance that El Poblet has altered it undercooked seafood practice. This is not a great dining pleasure. Judith Gebhart

You have great guidance in the River Cottage Meat book and your search deserves to be recorded. Tell us what you learn. We agree and share your standards for great meat, poultry and game. Let us know what you find! Judith Gebhart

I echo docsonz choice. We have been Almadraba regulars for years. The hotel is perched to view the drive to and from El Bulli. It is a delightful Roses location. The owners are well versed in the needs of the El Bulli diner. They offer an excellent hotel and dining fare for the day after. Do consider it for your Roses hotel when dining at El Bulli. Judith Gebhart

Can anyone address the source of this unique visual series?? It sounds unique and eminently desirable. Any input will be helpful. Judith Gebhart

Of course Moto is one of Chicago's finest, innovative chefs. If you haven't figured this out, you are not tasting nor noticing. Homaro is a unique talent that has comparisons with the best talents in Spain today. We are both enduring supporters. Moto excites the palate and offers an unusual dining experience. Judith Gebhart

We are headed to Barcelona late January, 2006. We are eager to sample Berasetgui's latest venu on the P. de Gracia which apparently opened in December, 2005 or in January, 2006. We did not try Luiz's Barcelona find: Coure (Copper) restaurant. It too sounds like another choice in the unending newest culinary finds in this marvelous city. For those interested, we will be forthcoming in our report of this fine Basque chef's jump into the Barcelona restaurant scene. Judith Gebhart

The subtle sensation of violets can only be felt when the salt is newly collected. As the salt dries, it disappears. Fleur de sel is almost never commercialized while the violet smell is still in it. And this particularity is only for fleur de sel from the Atlantic coast. There is absolutely no violet smell in fleur de sel de Camargue, which is also a commercial gimmick but at least the Guérande fleur de sel could claim some authenticity in the days when you could get it directly from the producer. Fleur de sel de Camargue was developed when some people realized how much money they could make from it after seeing how well Guérande did. At any rate, whatever is left from the violet smell is reduced to nothing when fleur de sel is used on food. The "foodie" argument is not very pertinent when you figure how much some foodies will pay for overhyped gimmicks. Indeed fleur de sel, when it is sold quite dry and far away from the marsh, IS a sales gimmick, certainly not worth its price. However I will certainly not blame the paludiers from Guérande and Batz-sur-Mer for setting this up, for this gimmick very probably saved the marshes from destruction and development. About twenty years ago, the salt marshes were threatened because the grey salt was not profitable enough. If the paludiers have managed to save their jobs, their craft and their produce through overcharging for dried-up fleur de sel, so much the better for everybody. If they hadn't done that, maybe their wonderful grey salt would have disappeared and that would have been a dramatic loss. ← Your insights are highly invaluable. I as one serious cook welcome your expertise. Thank you for your input. We know that the Camarque cannot produce the excellent product of the Guerande and the Batz-sur Mer salt products.A salt product that smells and tastes of violets is eminently desirable. We are fascinated with this thread as it pricks our interest in great French salt products. Thank you for your help. Judith Gebhart

I am awaiting a response from John and anyone else about their experience at this young French operation which has immense appeal to us. We are old Francophiles; more recently Spanish converts. Our heart has always been in France but the French have not embraced with great zeal their newest, most innovative, irreverent and talented chefs. I await a more comprehensive review with anticipation. Judith Gebhart