Judith Gebhart

Thanks SD for your enthusiastic response. I have pictures, but I have not mastered those skills needed to post both text and pictures.You raise an interesting question about Alkimia; we originally preferred Alkimia for many of our BCN visits. We still think it has a talented kitchen team. Our more recent visits were somewhat disappointing. The food is always our first focus. The last two visits were very good. Something was lacking in Alkimia's ability to produce the unique dishes they had originally produced. This disconnect we have not been able to understand. We never felt Alkimia welcomed our repeated business. There seemed to be an indifference to our apparent enthusiasm for this talented chef and the dishes he produced. We tried French and English but never effectively connected with servers or managers. The food issue is always central to our primary evaluation of any restaurant anywhere. The combination of a less than stellar menu and an indifferent staff dimmed our enthusiasm for Alkimia. I cannot add more specific detail, mostly because I cannot find our notes that more effectively support our position. We still believe Alkimia is a fine dining destination; but we have revised our preferences. Alkimia no longer has the premiere position for our dining interest. Hope this provides some explanation of our latest BCN choices. Judith

Thanks John for your response. Actually we did know of each others eGullet connection. I had forgotten, frankly, until Elie actually posted online after our elBulli dinner.When at elBulli one (we do) gets caught up in the immediacy of the moment. It is so heartening to connect with elBulli personnel that have remained important Ferran team members for so long. We are not friends but we recognise the talented service people we met so many years ago. This is both heart warming and a tribute to Ferran's superior leadership. IMO at least. Judith

Our May/June 2005 trip began at Michel Bras’ hotel/ restaurant in Laguiole, France. It ended in Ostape, the new Ducasse venture in the French Basque town of Bidarray and the Hostellerie Plaisance and Chateau Pavie in St-Emilion. I plan to cover this in a separate posting for France. The Spanish portion of the trip began in Barcelona, continued north through Catalonia into the Pyrenees and ended in the Spanish Basque region. The first 6 restaurants are, for us, 1st time visits. Later in this posting we will cover 5 other restaurants; all are long time favorites. cincsentits - Barcelona 1st visit eGullet postings of this new 1 year old Barcelona restaurant beckoned us to visit on this 2005 trip. The cream colored, quiet, tasteful decor sets the serious dining stage for this small modern restaurant. The dining room is intimate and understated. It is an attractive room, with the tables well spaced. Jordi Artal is the chef, his mother runs the dining room and his sister is the sommelier. One minor point - in many restaurants the menu in English is, for us, more confusing than the Spanish menu - not so here; their English menu was extremely well written. We chose a red wine, Vega Sicilia Valbuena 2000. We ordered the “Omakase” Tasting Menu. It started with 3 excellent “tapas”; 1) maple syrup flavored cava sabayon with crystals of rock salt, 2) a cold pate of foie gras with a violet confiture and crumbs of what they call “carquinyoli” cookies and 3) a poached quail egg with parmesan cream and a hint of lemon (a candied lemon peel). They were all nicely balanced. The rock salt, cookie crumbs and candied lemon peel accents enhanced each dish. Already teased with three remarkably tasty “tapas”, we eagerly began with the first tasting of a velouté of jerusalem artichoke accompanied with a marmalade of roasted piquillo pepper finished with a dash of black truffle oil. We both rated this outstanding. A poached egg on Catalan botifarra sausage and onion accompanied by seared foie gras was excellent. They described the next dish as “wild Mediterranean tuna” in a lightly smoked fish broth. It was accompanied by shiitake mushrooms. This was a marvelously flavored dish; top quality tuna and a broth just hinting of smoke. The main savory course was a rack of lamb crusted with porcini mushrooms. The lamb was an excellent cut of highest quality lamb, cooked and seasoned perfectly. The porcini coating further elevated the flavors of this dish. It was accompanied by two sauces, a slow roasted caramelized leek cream and a rich demi-glace, that nicely finished this delicious dish. The desserts started with a combination cheese/dessert course. A cabrales cream on a brioche was accompanied by white truffle and orange blossom honey sauce along with pear sticks. My husband rated this dish outstanding. Next was a strawberry and minus 8 (a Canadian balsamic style vinegar) sorbet with a vanilla bean panna cotta and a rosewater gel e with a dusting of pink peppercorns. Another excellent dessert. An aside: my husband who likes vinegar, particularly Balsamic, prefers minus 8 to the Italian Balsamic version. The last dessert was also outstanding. It consisted of a chocolate genoise with a toasted hazelnut parfait and an espresso granit . I raved about this dessert. In summary this was as good as any meal we have had in Barcelona. I would like to comment briefly on three other lighter meals in Barcelona. Two were in the southwest part of the Eixample. Gargantua Pantagruel on Corsega, 200 and Speakeasy (Dry Martini) on Aribau 162 were two choices made after our arrival. We left them with the impression they were acceptable (Dry Martini) and good (Gargantua). We would not rate either a preferred dining destination. A third choice for a light lunch or supper is Tenorio, a restaurant that we have chosen several times over the years. My husband’s comments follow. Tenorio is on the Passeig de Gr cia in the Manzana de la Discordia block. Where else can you sit at a sidewalk table, on a beautiful day or evening, on one of the greatest boulevards (my #1 choice) and view three magnificent buildings designed by Domenech Montaner, Puig Cadafalch and Gaudi? The menu is rather large; if you pick carefully, you can find a decent dish or two. For example, the salad with warm goat cheese is quite good. Les Cols - Olot (Girona) 1st visit Throughout Spain modern architectural updates are being exquisitely integrated into older buildings. Les Cols, an18th century manor and home of the chef Fina Puigdevall, is a perfect example of just how spectacular these transformations can be. The house and grounds are beautiful. The new decor and other design features provide a striking contrast with the old. This is a well deserved, prize winning renovation. The house is located at the northern edge of Olot in a residential/commercial area. The grounds are totally sheltered from the town by trees and shrubbery. We started our meal with a glass of cava on the terrace which overlooks one of the gardens. The main dining area is in the shape of an “L” and we were in the room with 8 well spaced tables. The interior color scheme of chocolate colored walls and gold lacquered metal tables and chairs was breathtaking. Diners could view the vegetable garden with its free roaming chickens through the long picture window comprising the entire exterior wall. This provided another delightful visual for the diner. The other part of the “L” is a room with one long table with 20 chairs on each side. The table and chairs are gold lacquered metal. The interior walls are lacquered in shimmering gold. The floor and 8 small serving stations are cream colored. From the entrance it is a spectacular sight. One entire wall of the kitchen is a window. Some diners have a view of this gloriously designed modern kitchen, replete with a small reflecting pool in front of a free floating, suspended wall of green ivy. We ordered a red wine from Priorat, Clos Mogador. The local artisanal bread was exceptional. We started our meal with a slightly sweet cold pea soup flavored with saffron and a hint of peanuts. I thought it was very good. My husband liked it even more than I did. This was followed by warm sauteed mushrooms (setas or xinxos) in a light broth with arugula leaves on top. A curious concept for me, as the delicacy of these tiny mushrooms was overwhelmed by the sauce. The next course consisted of two cubes of potatoes with a somewhat gelatinous texture in a reddish brown, beef based sauce. It had a pleasant flavor. A black sausage croquette covered in delicately seasoned bread crumbs to which a slice of prune was added was our next course. Another acceptable but uninspired dish. Our next service were white beans from Santa Pau paired with a botifarra de perol. The beans were in pancake form with the sausage inside. This was accompanied by sheets of dried cheese, gelatinized broth and a light foam. This was an unexpected, amusing and perfectly delicious version of sausage and beans. Excellent! Arroz de pay s, similar to a vegetable risotto, followed. Another excellent dish. It included young asparagus, tiny peas and fava beans topped with fried arugula. A truly flavorsome combination. This was followed by codfish with a cock’s crest. It was slow cooked in what appeared to be a chicken stock with pistachios. We thought it was very good. The main savory course was “espalda de cordero, leche de oveja, tomillo”, apparently a signature dish for Ms. Puigdevall - RGS has a picture of it in the ‘05 guide. It looked just like the picture. This is lamb cooked for 11 hours at 70C and comes with a stock and sheep milk sauce. I rated it very good, possibly excellent. A cheese course featured selections from northern Catalonia. A blue cow from Olot, can pujols and mas farro sheep were all excellent. For 3 desserts we started with strawberries with quark of La Pinya orange flowers and Ratafia. This was outstanding. Our first taste experience with Ratafia was love with the first sip. A chocolate, almond and cereal arrangement was made to look like the volcanoes of the area. It was excellent. Finally, a eucalyptus flower marshmallow ended the meal. Curious choice. This meal provoked mixed emotions. The dining room is stunning. The entire facility is an architectural tour de force. I ranked the food at about the middle of our “very good” category. My husband liked it a bit better and would have placed it near the top of that category. They will be adding a few guest rooms (hotel) in the next few months. If so, this will provide another incentive to return to Les Cols. Ca l’Enric - La Vall de Bianya (Girona) 1st visit Located in a country setting on the road to Camprodon about 10km northwest of Olot, Ca l’Enric has an updated rustic look, with exposed beams and brick columns. Our welcome was friendly. The service is attentive and led by this 4th generation team. The brothers Jordi and Juan Junca are in the dining room and Isabel is in the kitchen. The table service, designed by the team, is further evidence of their many talents. For our wine we chose a red from Priorat - Clos Martinet 1994. The meal started with three small items - parmesan tuile, mushrooms and a black pudding. All three dishes were excellent, as were the artisanal breads. The foie gras pate in crumbs with dried apple slices, resembling a “sandwich” was our next dish. Another excellent preparation. This was followed by a puree of shrimp with a hint of mint and a vegetable/truffle foam. Very good. A white asparagus soup with mussels, dried ham and drops of olive oil was another excellent dish. Lotte de mar with green onions and spinach and a herb cream garnish was well flavored, but overcooked. Two slices of rare pigeon breast were served in a rich broth with morel mushrooms and a small amount of rice. Excellent. The final savory dish was shredded oxtail in a rich sauce or gravy. It was accompanied by an orange confit; a perfect contrast. This was a delicious update of a traditional dish. Dessert was a dish of exceptionally flavorful strawberries with a strawberry sorbet accented with basil. We both rated this an outstanding dessert. Our impression of the restaurant is consistent with the comments we have read on eGullet. Other postings recommend it and we would second that view. Estany Clar - Cercs (Barcelona) 1st visit This restaurant is about midway between Berga (more prominent) and Cercs at the intersection of routes 16 and 26. We actually parked momentarily in their unmarked driveway to get our bearings before driving into Cercs only to find we had to retrace our steps. Our meal was midday. There seems to be some confusion (in our two minds) over what evenings, if any, that they are open. The restaurant is in an imposing old manor on attractive grounds in the foothills of the Pyrenees. The estuary is to the east and not visible from the restaurant. The interior is even more rustic than Ca l’Enric with stone walls and supports and vaulted stone ceilings. The feeling is one of comfort. The service was friendly and attentive. The chef, Jordi Cruz, is a very young man. Our wine choice was an excellent Castillo de Perelada, 2001 Finca Garbet from Empord . The meal started with a superb eggplant and lobster broth with pieces of lobster and small croutons. This was followed by a roasted scallop with artichoke and soya. This was accompanied by a Jordi Cruz creation; an olive oil pasta. We both rated this dish as outstanding. The next course was a charcoal broiled mackerel with mustard leaves and “trumpets of death” wild mushrooms (a mushroom linked to the chanterelle family). It was served on a flavorful very thin wafer. This was a unique culinary gem. I cannot remember a better prepared mackerel. Outstanding! Creamy (very light) peas and prawns with herbs that gave off a delicate scent was the third outstanding course. We were both in culinary heaven. We came back to earth, a little bit, with a foie gras dish. It was an excellent preparation, served as a small salad with a pumpkin puree and hazelnuts. They also offered a small glass of sweet wine (Tokai Aszu ‘98 vintage); not an uncommon touch in France but rarely offered in Spain. A combination of prawns, lobster, rice and artichokes were accented with Iberian oil and parmesan foam. Each bite contained all four ingredients balanced perfectly and cooked to perfection. Another outstanding preparation! The fish of the day was a sea bass with cockles and an oyster wrapped in a leaf in a lightly flavored broth. This was simple and delicious. Another outstanding preparation. The savory portion of the meal ended with slow cooked lamb and stewed potatoes with a sweet pea and eggplant essence. Although a bit rich for what had preceded, we rated it excellent for the nicely balanced flavors. Our first dessert was an excellent goat milk curd infused with honey and nuts. This was followed by a coconut, lemon and green apple cream - a perfect blend of flavors for a refreshing concoction. Another outstanding dish. The final dessert was chocolate cake similar to a ganache (heavy cream and chocolate). A complimentary glass of sherry was offered to my husband. I refrained. Petit fours included dark chocolate seasoned with salt and pepper, white chocolate with lemon, chocolate covered peanut with salt cream and apricot bitter jelly. I’m sure all excellent. We were full! Michelin and RGS discovered this restaurant in 2004. Gourmetour still seems unaware of this talented chef. I could not find them listed in the 2004 Campsa. We are cautious in our evaluations, especially after only one visit. That said, we rated 6 courses outstanding (our highest category) and 5 excellent (second highest). For us it was a very special dining experience. If this meal is typical of chef Jordi Cruz’s kitchen talents, then he is certainly a rising star. We anxiously await our next visit. Panticosa Resort (Gran Hotel - - - Restaurante Del Lago) - Balneario de Panticosa (Huesca) 1st visit This was a convenient overnight stay on our journey through the Pyrenees. We read about the architectural renovations by Rafael Moneo and learned that the restaurant was under the direction of Pedro Subijana of Akelare! This “team” certainly got our attention. The road ends at the Balneario de Panticosa. The old thermal spa apparently fell into decline but has now been revived by the owners of the Enate winery. Rafael Moneo Vall s is one of Spain’s finest architects. This superb transformation is testimony to his architectural genius. For those unaware, Moneo is the architect of the Centro Kursaal in San Sebastian, the Museo Nacional de Arte Romano in Merida and buildings for the Chivite winery in Navarra, among others. The original hotel and annex date to the late 19th century. The natural setting is breathtaking; mountains and waterfalls with mixed forests surround this high valley. Moneo transformed all the interior spaces. The spectacular dining room with 20 foot windows has views of the surrounding mountains, adjoining grounds and a small lake. Several other beautifully appointed public rooms inhabit the ground floor. An elegantly designed, fully equipped spa is below the ground floor. In about a year it will be hooked up to the thermal springs. A little casino is in the attached annex. Two additional dining rooms are also under the direction of Subijana. The guest rooms are exquisite, each remarkably appointed with furniture and design details all by Moneo. One current drawback is that this is a huge ongoing construction project in this tiny community, with other hotels and restaurants under renovation or construction. There is a lot of noise. We were told they shut down all construction on weekends. We choose the Enate Artists Series, red wine, for our meal. This wine was well made but not worth the hefty price. We decided to order off the regular menu. A complimentary start was langoustine with foam and olive oil, tuna with soy sauce and herbs, artichoke with a slightly sweet cream and caviar with a light cream. All were flavorful, nicely plated and well constructed. A very good start. I ordered a tuna tartare with olive oil ice cream. My husband had a crepe with caviar and raw almonds. Both were excellent. I had a roasted suckling lamb with amaranth and three peppers - green, yellow and red - for my main course. A sea bass with percebes and arugula was my husbands choice. Both were very good to excellent. I had a mango ice cream with a mango tart of sorts for dessert. It was very well prepared. My husband made a better choice: a cylinder of cake filled with a fruity red liquid and fruits (strawberries and raspberries). It is similar in concept to Michel Bras internationally known and copied biscuit chocolate “coulants” with liquid chocolate filling. Several other complimentary desserts were provided including some excellent petit fours. We have found that satellite restaurants of many excellent chefs have great variance in quality: from the excellent Santceloni in Madrid to the flawed, disappointing Arola, in Barcelona. We were told the whole Panticosa kitchen team spends considerable time in training at Akelare. They are off to a great start. The kitchen is already succeeding! Marques de Riscal - Elciego (Alava) On our way to the Basque country we visited the Riscal winery to determine the progress of their new reception center, restaurant and hotel designed by Frank Gehry. Completion is still a year away. This new structure is going to be an extraordinary addition to the Rioja landscape. We plan to visit for at least one day on our spring 2006 trip. The restaurant will be run by Francis Paniego of Echaurren in Ezcaray. El Portal del Echaurren - Ezcaray (La Rioja) 1st visit The restaurant has two menus; one in the more traditional Rioja style prepared by the mother and one by Francis Paniego who works in a more modern style. For our first visit we preferred the latter. The dining room, done in white, is understated and very welcoming with ample room between the tables. The various decorative details such as a fireplace, wall moldings and the oriental rugs on a dark polished floor create a serious dining atmosphere. Felix Paniego, brother of Francis, was an able resource. Wishing to order a fine Rioja we asked about two on the carte. He agreed our choices would be good but he steered us to a ‘01 Mirto of Ram n Bilbao at half the price of one of our choices. We were thrilled with his suggestion. The first course was his mother’s creation. An outstandingly flavored croquette was paired with a spoonful of lamb feet. Both were excellent. A savory Iberian ham ice cream with tomato seeds in olive oil and croutons followed. This was intensely flavored; another excellent dish. What our English menu called a tomato tartar with lobster with a creamed garlic soup was actually langoustine with an intensively flavored tomato tartar in a delicate garlic cream. This was a superb dish which I rated excellent, possibly outstanding. A preparation of tiny peas, ham and wild mushrooms in a cream sauce we ranked as a very good dish. It was not particularly inventive. Pork snout confit with foie gras, cabbage, coffee couscous in a coca-cola reduction could be described as an interesting, rustic dish. Again probably very good. Jumbo shrimp brochette on crusty bread crumbs with coconut shavings with a Rioja sauce was also very good. It was probably flavored with espelette for a slightly spicy touch. Monkfish confit with puree of clarified chickpea soup broth and two tiny potatoes was excellent. The final savory course was a very slow cooked lamb with parmentier potatoes in a cream sauce and dollops of yogurt. Another very good preparation. Three desserts, all excellent: 1) pineapple soup with caramel and coconut mousse was not overly sweet, 2) toast with “Cameros” cheese, dried granny smith apple and honey ice cream had nice contrasts in texture and flavor and 3) petits fours and flan were a nice finish. In summary we rated this very solidly in our very good category. Summary 1st visit category We were very pleased with all of these 6 new restaurant choices. Truly talented chefs continue to emerge in northern Spain. Not one restaurant choice was a disappointment. We rated Estany Clar and cincsentits as our best new culinary finds of the trip. We discovered one very special new hotel and restaurant in the Pyrenees: Panticosa resort with its Gran Hotel and its fine Restaurante del Lago. If Les Cols completes their plan for adding a few lovely rooms that could be another desirable destination. Five Prevailing Favorites elBulli and Mugaritz continue to be our two favorite Spanish dining establishments. As of this last trip, they continue to wow us – for very different dining experiences. They remain our top dining choices. That assessment of elBulli should not be surprising. We will offer our reasons for this lofty assessment of Mugaritz in the Mugaritz post. Our next two top choices would be Etxebarri, followed by Akelare. (Note: as yet we have not been to El Poblet, Tristan or Atrio). We usually spend several days in Barcelona when we visit Spain. We believe Hisop offers the best fine dining value in the city. Our excellent first meal at cincsentits now rivals our enthusiasm for Hisop. elBulli - Cala Montjoi (Roses, Girona Provence) This is a truly unique dining event. We started on the patio with several bite size appetizers. This was accompanied by a glass of elBulli’s house cava which is Gran Claustro Brut Nature Reserva 2002 from Empord . For our meal, we ordered a Celler Mas Doix ‘01 from Priorat. Foodman, at the restaurant the same evening as us, successfully covered the meal in his posting. There have been many postings for elBulli 2005 and their incomparable menu and service. Our impressions are consistent with these enlightened postings. I would like to pass on a few thoughts of my own. Our elBulli visits, since ‘97 have always been a highly anticipated dining event. We think elBulli is a dining experience without equal. In an earlier visit, we had a guest who hated tasting menus. In those days she was then able to order from the regular menu (they still brought her 10 or so small tasting items). On one of our earlier trips, we dined twice in a three day period, both times ordering the tasting menu. elBulli managed to provide a different menu on our second visit. Adri , in 1999 or 2000, visited Chicago to participate in a panel of chefs organized by Charlie Trotter. Adri mentioned that he decided to become a diner in his own dining room and assess the dining experience for himself. He found that not enough food was being served and immediately upped the quantity to 450 grams. Several months later while eating in the restaurant at the kitchen table, already feeling quite full, we commented to Luis, our server, that this was more than 450 grams!!! At our next dinner, my husband noticed that our portions were slightly smaller than those at other tables. For us this illustrates the kind of attention to detail that makes this such a great restaurant. Mugaritz - Errenteria (Guipuzcoa) Our first visit to Mugaritz was in 2000. This was our 12th visit. The restaurant’s listed location is under Errenteria - Renteria. It is actually closer to Astigarraga. The restaurant’s setting is in an isolated valley in the mountains/hills about 10km south of San Sebastian. A large rectangle shaped dining room with inviting natural wood walls, modern appointments and large picture windows on two sides overlook the side garden and the front view of the pastoral, hilly countryside. Tables are well spaced; a few dividers are discreetly incorporated. The feeling of this restaurant is one of spaciousness, rustic elegance with a warm, unique reception. There are several reasons why we place Mugaritz, along with elBulli, at the top of our dining list. Andoni Lu s Ad riz and his kitchen team are supremely integrated to produce an outstanding product for the customer. Andoni’s incomparable management style and his rigorous research for unique dishes excite his kitchen workers to work as tirelessly as he does. Our choice of the tasting menu has always provided the most thrilling innovations available to the diner. Each menu consisted of 10 or so courses. I remember only one recipe stumble a number of years ago - a traditional cod recipe that failed to thrill. The other extraordinary dishes, now well over 100, have repeatedly been excellent/outstanding. We could not make that claim about any other restaurant including elBulli. The quality of the ingredients is of the highest rank. Andoni has a concept for a meal that we find exceptional. His menu incorporates vegetables, wild and domestic herbs and other plant life into the menu with such finesse and balance that, when finished, you “feel truly satisfied”. You never feel too full. Andoni offers a unique culinary direction that embraces the products of the land or Basque terroir. His special knowledge of wild plants coupled with his technical genius in the kitchen commands a unique position in Spain and the world. Finally, the service was and is always professional, friendly, informed and efficient. At the time of our first visit the service was exceptional. It has never changed. We settled on a great Spanish white wine, a Chivite 125 from ‘02 - one of our favorites. Our first course, possibly a last minute inspiration, was not identified on our menu. It featured tiny peas with ratte potato slices. Exquisitely flavored and very simple. The next dish of sliced raw mushrooms over lightly mashed ratte potatoes, boiled in a yeast broth was a taste sensation. It was enhanced with beech forest herbs; a sorrel-like flavor addition (oxalis acetosella and glechoma hederacea; in season from February to June). An innovative, very well flavored dish. Grilled rice with small cuttlefish were served with an aspic and a small piece of idiazabal cheese. An incomparable dish! Borage leaves blanched in a shellfish bouillon were served with pickled garlic petals and borage flowers. This was simply prepared and artfully flavored. This portion of the meal introduced “burned and curdled cream with fig shoots and citric fruit, powdered with ashes of vegetable and seaweed”. The burned and ash effect was a conceit, achieved through natural coloring and not charring. Delicious. Our next dish started with an egg served ‘broken over toasted chicken wings and capaccino leaves”. The wings were boneless. It was another extraordinary combination. Sea cucumber was served with a vegetable “carbon”, sweet shoots of yucca and a garlic casein. This too was unforgettable. Sea cucumber, harvested from the Mediterranean, is not a typical Basque product. Rare tuna fillet in a concentrated fishbone stock accompanied by lily shoot leaves, allium and tulbaghia flowers was beautiful to look at and delicious. Foie gras is one item regularly on the menu at Mugaritz. It is roasted, adding a very light, harmonious flavor. This preparation is outstanding. Variations in the foie gras is achieved with the accompaniments. Andoni provided a sliver of toast, hazelnut cream and demi-confit of cherries. The main savory course was Iberian pork tails with a stew of vegetables and kuzu noodles. The dish was garnished with what looked like arugula blossoms but Josara (dining room manager) said they were cabbage blossoms. Desserts started with a stellar pistachio cake accompanied by crystalized flowers and an ice cream dusted with orange blossoms. This was followed by a cylinder of chocolate ice cream accompanied by a cream of almonds and a cream of chocolate and lime. All were outstanding. Etxebarri - Axpe (Vizcaya) This was another opportunity to experience the extraordinary a la brasa cooking style of chef Victor Arguinzoniz. Etxebarri has not received the recognition it so richly deserves. In 2005, GaultMillau rated a few Spanish restaurants. We were excited that they assigned an 18 rank to Etxebarri. The 8 rating by RGS is, in our opinion, woefully inadequate. Other Spanish guides either don’t understand what he is doing or don’t care. Michelin is clearly clueless having dropped all mention in their red guide. The Etxebarri menu was originally dominated with superbly prepared protein dishes. We easily corrected this presumed bias with a request for some vegetables and/or salad to enhance the dining experience. His preparations are always flawless. In our 6 visits we have had 40 or so different dishes and all were excellent or outstanding. An authoritative source informed us that he has access to the finest Spanish food products available. Our observation and taste experience supports that assertion. In our experience his “a la brasa” cooking is without equal in Spain, Europe or the USA. It is perfectly balanced, tailored to every dish and, always very, very subtle. Berasategui, Roca and particularly Michel Guerard in France could all take lessons from him. Our wine choice of Cirsi n ‘01 was 99€. A high price to spend but well below even retail market price. The wine carte has some excellent selections and the prices are unbeatable. You have both food and wine values that are incomparable. The first item was excellent; and everything else was outstanding. The 3rd and 4th courses were “off the charts”; The first dish was a homemade chorizo. This was followed by a salad of zizas (tiny button sized wild St. George mushroom) with mixed greens and chopped pistachios in a gentle vinaigrette. This was followed by fresh cepes (boletus edulis - wild mushrooms) cooked a la brasa in a light sauce flavored with chives and spring onions. The mushrooms were perfectly cooked and delicately perfumed. I have never had this mushroom prepared this well; anywhere! Now came the “tour de force” - a cigalas also cooked a la brasa. We have had this on other occasions and it never fails to dazzle. Absolutely nothing is added; nothing else is needed. The flavor is phenomenal. Our fish course was a superbly fresh mero (from Cantabria) accompanied by fresh ramps, baby onions, fresh peas and parsley in olive oil. This is a wonderful ocean fish. The preparation was extraordinary. Our meat course was a chuleta, a perfectly cooked (rare) beef. A light salad was also served. This great cut of meat was perfectly seasoned. The simply dressed salad was delightful. Our dessert of zizas mushroom ice cream in a light herb infused sugar syrup was an astonishingly delicious surprise. This unique ice cream was memorable! Akelare - San Sebastian (Guipuzcoa) This was our 6th visit. Our first three Akelare visits were in 1999 and 2000. All our meals were quite uneven and often erratic. Some dishes were inventive and refined. Other dishes were either uninspired or ill conceived. Pedro Subijana has been and continues to be a significant Basque chef. We returned in 2003 after some favorable reviews. Convinced that Akelare was an outstanding Basque restaurant, we returned again for two visits in 2005. Both meals were/are testimony to his culinary acumen. We chose an excellent Clos d’Agon ‘02 (red) from Empord for our wine. The late June posting by zeitoun describes their Akelare meal in detail. The two different menus they ordered on their visit were duplicated by us (their pictures match ours). zeitoun very accurately described their meals. I will add a few comments. We were in agreement with Z with the asparagus and peas. We thought the “coulis-like” curdle was overwhelming. I had the percebes, razor clams & mussels. The over-salted dish he described was not our experience, fortunately. We agreed with Z on the prawn dish.. The head was stuffed with a mussel puree for a nice touch. Note that the prawn had been removed from its’ own shell, which was then replaced with a faux shell made of spun sugar; a whimsical touch typical of Subijana. This is the kind of thing that he does so well. We second the remaining comments by Z on savory dishes. For the last savory dish “Presa de Ib rico”, they mentioned not having any “practical recollection”. My husbands’ notes indicate that it was a wild roasted pig, porc demi-glace and a caramelized container of olive oil. He rated it excellent. We agreed with Z on desserts. Hisop - Barcelona This was our 4th visit. Over the past 10 years we have had restaurant choices in Barcelona that we ranked highly including Figueras, Freixa, Drolma, Abac and Alkimia. We would consider returning to a few of them, particularly Abac and Alkimia. Except for Alkimia, the other restaurants are all relatively expensive and no longer offer the great value they once provided. Hisop has sustained high quality and inspired preparations. (Note: we have not been Ca L’Isidre). The food at Hisop has been consistently well prepared, using top quality ingredients to provide inventive interpretations of various Catalan dishes. The minimalist decor is striking: black and white with lipstick red accents. The tables are well spaced. The service is informed and friendly, never stuffy. Jose Miguel Murgui usually attends to our needs. He is an articulate spokesman for this young team from Girona. Both wine and food prices (40€ for our menu) are very reasonable. Our wine choice was Gran Claustro (red) ‘00 from Empord . The meal started with a small glass of a cool combination of basil, tomato, anchovy, and fried cheese in a light cream emulsion or “soup”. The balance of flavors, texture and temperature were perfect for this hot day in Barcelona. A thick square of very rare tuna topped with a small spoonful of balsamic ice cream was our next taste treat. A complex flavored dish; hints of smoke in the exceptionally cooked rare tuna contrasted nicely with the savory ice cream. This dish was well conceived and executed. A vegetable medley followed with green and white asparagus, zucchini squash blossoms, spinach leaves sauced with a light cream infused with lemon grass. A final touch of black truffle shavings anointed this visually elegant, most flavorful dish. Superb fare. Roasted hake on a bed of rice followed. The rice, including bits of crunchy wild rice, was enhanced with a herb foam emulsion. Another marvelous dish. Rare grilled beef with scrumptious cep ravioli in a rich brown sauce was extraordinary dining. Three dessert offerings were presented. A palate cleanser sorbet of mint lime and rum started our “sweet coarse”. A thyme curd with blood orange ice cream with tiger nuts followed the sorbet. So delicious and satisfying. Our last dessert was fresh strawberries with a camomile gelatin spiked with a memorable passion fruit sorbet. Overall Assessment For those who like rankings the following is how we would break down these 11 meals (over time we have Akelare rated higher). 1) Mugaritz and elBulli very closely followed by Etxebarri. Each was very different. 2) Estany Clar - Close to the top and a very pleasant surprise. 3) cincsentits (a new choice for Barcelona), Hisop and Akelare. 4) Ca l’Enric - We agree with others on eGullet about it. 5) Echaurren, Les Cols and Panticosa - We recommend all three.

Victor's response was correct for the M. de Riscal's choice for a new chef for the Gehry restaurant. After much ado, El Portal del Echaurren won the post for the M. de Riscal's new primary restaurant in their new, exciting Gehry designed edifice. It is a thrilling venture at least from our viewpoint. It is not a duplication of the Guggenheim in Bilbao as Zeitoun suggested. Our understanding is that the titanium "roofs" are of various colors; the design is thrilling. We are commending M. de Riscal winery for its forward thinking. We assume it will be an exceptional tourist destination. We want to endorse every positive notation Zeitoun cited about the Basque people. We have been travellers in this area since 1997. We have never been disappointed by any interchange with any Basque person. Our overall experience has been memorable. Addressing the chef Pedro Subijani of Akalare we extoll his virtues, especially in the last three years. We have been somewhat ambivalent about this talented chef; we questioned his commitment to the current Spanish innovations. Our most recent visits attest to this chefs unique contribution to the newest, most adverturesome menus in the Basque country. He is a peer of Juan M Arzak. Referring to the items that the Zeitouns experienced, we have the following comments: referring to the steamed percebes with borage. Zeitoun found this dish too salty. We did not. We were served a melange of seafoods: percebes, moules, razor clams and cockles all embellished with the ocean foam. This delightful dish was not overly salted. This next dish was a fresh king prawn with green apple and ginger flavors. We experienced this dish differently. The prawn had a faux shell composed of all the sweet and savory flavors that transported this dish to a joyous combination of seafood ingredients. It was an elegant dish with truly whimsical characteristics.

First of all, let me congratulate you for your report. It really makes me want to return to the Basque Country and enjoy its food and all the rest. On the zizas: this is the calocybe gambosa (aka Tricholoma georgii), St. George's mushroom, which also receives the common name of perretxico. I'd say that it's called ziza in Guipuzcoa (Donostia and surroundings) and perretxico in Vizcaya (Bilbao and surroundings), but I'm not totally sure about that. Regarding the indigenous condition of this mushroom, it grows in a number of different regions of the country, including La Rioja and Navarra. Nonetheless, it's one of the most appreciated mushrooms in the Basque Country. ← This is a mushroom available in the USA but rarely harvested in the button stage as it is in the Basque country. We have followed this thread with great interest as it duplicates our May and June, 2005 Basque country dining experience. If we have Zeitouns permission, we would like to post our Akalare dining experience, which we experienced on June 3rd, 2005. We ordered the two tasting menus that the Zeitouns enjoyed. We have some additional inputs that we feel would add to the diner's experience. I will expand our observations if Zeitoun is accepting of our intrusion to his marvelous communique to eGullet. It is most unusual that we started our trip this last May and June in France and after our Spanish journey we ended up in France duplicating some of the same locations that Zeitoun visited. We will post the French destinations on the France forum. We are sharing our Spanish views on this forum.

Corrina: I haven't posted our latest Barcelona dining experience but I think I can offer some helpful pointers. We originally loved Abac going back 4 years ago. It continues to be an excellent dining experience, albeit now more expensive. That fact lead us to investigate other young Barcelona chefs. We became Alkimia advocates for the last three years. As of 2003, we visited Hisop. We were elated with it's dynamic menu. Their innovative recipes restated traditional items transforming them into modern savory dishes. Hisop became our Barcelona favorite. I have yet to post our last June, 2005 visit. We were again thrilled with the chefs tasting menu. This last May 25, 2005 trip, was a first visit to CincSentits. We ordered the Omakase tasting menu. It was excellent. Again I haven't posted the details, but I will. We were thrilled with CincSentits culinary choices. We would advise that you visit both Hisop and CincSentits. Should Hisop close, we will be truly disappointed. We hope and pray Hisop will continue to provide its marvelous dining experience Judith Gebhart

Yes. We did. We are active on the French and Spanish forums; we are also CT diners since he opened in '87. We are Chicagoans that live in the Lincoln Park area. We applaud every exciting cooking effort by any local chef. There are many new chefs in Chicago that exceed Charlie's talents.And yes we jumped (foolishly) at the option to sample the Fat Duck's fare as well as Tetsuya's excellent Australian culinary contributions. Such international cooking from visting chefs at Charlie's restaurant over the years has been very mixed and less than satisfying. These events over the years have never provided outstanding dining experiences. This dinner was flawed because the kitchen was overwhelmed by the demand of the diners needs. Terribly disappointed by this extraordinary combination of cooking talents, we wished a better outcome. One of the items presented to the diner upon leaving was Tetsuya's bottled truffled mushrooms. This preparation was inedible. This was an insult to any diner that visited CT that night. We will consider Hestor Blumenthal's dining room in England. Maybe we will eventually seek out Tetsuya. Tetsuya whose culinary heritage is from Japan is a unique talent. This dinner never reflected any such talent. I wish our assessment was more upbeat. Sorry. Judith Gebhart

Good restaurant service is largely most evident when the service never calls attention to itself, but elBulli takes this to another level. In fact, it may be precisely because there is, of necessity, so much interaction with staff as they explain the highly individual and creative food, that even the most sophisticated and experienced diners lose sight of how well run and how much of the front of the house operation goes on behind our backs. Just as the food is more than the sum of the courses, the experience seems greater than the sum of its parts. Above, and not for the first time, I said the food was labor intensive. So is the service and all that goes into the experience, including making it all seem effortless. The dollar has been on a slide for a while and topic of conversation more on the France board than the Spain one perhaps, but I suppose in a way, I'm lucky to have been around when the dollar was strong and the franc and peseta very weak. The tables have turned and it's the EU citizens' turn to enjoy themselves at bargain prices. Should I be consoled that I might never have developed such a taste for foie gras had I not traveled in the Perigord when the dollar bought ten francs. At its price, which amounts to close to $200 this spring, elBulli is more than fairly priced when compared to what one pays in NY, London or Paris for a top meal. It's getting to Cala Montjoi that's expensive, but we amortize that cost by having a few other good meals along the way. ← Thanks Bux for your input. I must apologize for suggesting that I had more salient comments to make for this thread; I don't!! I must applaud Elie's significant, marvelous explication of the same menu (with few exceptions) we also shared at elBulli on May 19, 2005. I had planned to add both pictures and our personal observations. Elie and others have done an eviable job. I have nothing to add but one observation. My one personal comment about the lamb brains dish is that I failed to taste the sea urchin ( I am a serious fan of these unctuous morsels. I also believe that cooked sea urchin is a failed culinary effort.) The texture of this dish was akin to eating baby food. I could not taste the oursin flavor and the lamb brains were too soft! The dish failed for me because it had no depth or breadth of texture or flavor. It was boring. The one highlight was elBulli's humor in it's efforts to celebrate a special occasion. The all purpose cardboard replication of the celebratory cake arrived at our table with great ceremony. Julie Soler produced a copy for us of our all purpose elBulli cardboard "cake" to take home. A witty end to a tasty, entertaining meal much appreciated by both of us. We will continue to explore elBulli's newest culinary contributions as long as we are able.

We have been el Bulli diners since 1997. We have watched this amazing chef emerge and develop with everlasting enthusiasm and appreciation. There was a time when the road to el Bulli was so difficult that driving to el Bulli was a distinctly stressful event. Stressful to arrive for a luncheon meal, no less! It was then as it is today, a drive that energizes and thrills us both. Our dining experience then, as now, had/has no equal anywhere on earth. We were diner's this last May, 2005. It was for us a meal for celebrating a special occasion, noted by Luis Garcia when we requested our 2005 reservation in 2004. Our 2005 menu reflected only those dishes most newly crafted in el Bulli's most elegant kitchen. We never appreciated this level of service until we realized and compared our various el Bulli menus over the years. What a unique and special restaurant experience, unmatched by any place on earth. ONLY AT EL BULLI! Yes the prices have risen. Every American frets about the Euro vs the dollar. The wine list is more expensive. It is a dining experience that has no equal. Can you pair your food and wine? NO!!! Go with a wine of your choice and enjoy the unfolding remarkable succession of tiny dishes that have no match anywhere in the world. ONLY AT EL BULLI! Our 2005 el Bulli meal will be posted very soon. It will include restaurants in the Pays Basque, Cataluyna, the Pyrenees and Rioja.

For San Sebastian, try the amazing restaurant, Mugaritz which is in a nearby suburb. It is a culinary destination with an internatiional distinction and reputation. One of our first choices whenever we visit Spain. We have followed this chef since 1997. He is exceptional. Gault Millau magazine recently listed El Bulli and Mugaritz as two of the world's BEST 10 molecular chefs. We have yet to truly understand this specific honor. Nevertheless, please consider Mugaritz! If you are going to Bilbao, include the serious dining room at the Guggenheim for at least ONE meal. This is another Berasetegui chef with superb credentials. He offers both traditional and nuevo dishes. It is thrilling to dine within the museum and experience a truly delicious meal by such a creative chef. The current exhibition by Richard Serra is a MUST visit. We have to await our 2005 Fall visit to savour this amazing retrospective. Now if you go to Axpe, as Zeitoun suggested, eat at Etxebarri, who is the greatest a la brasa chef in the world. This is another culinary first which should not be missed. You will never regret experiencing this unique dining treat. I would also recommend Echaurren's excellent fare especially in the son's dining room. I will post a more comprehensive report gleaned from our last May-June, 2005 visit. This young Echaurren chef is also the annointed new chef for the new Gehry restaurant and hotel under construction at the M. de Riscal Rioja winery. This too will be another special destination for the diner and Gehry admirerers.

Our recent May-June trip to Catalonia included two good restaurants very new to us. Both restaurants have few eGullet reports. Both are within driving distance from Roses: Ca l'Enric, which is outside of Olot in La Vall de Gianya, is a 1 star Michelin, Gourmetour and Campsa rated restaurant. The other is Les Cols, also rated as highly by Michelin, Campsa and Gourmetour. It is located in Olot. Both are worthy of your attention. I will offer a more lengthy, comprehensive assessment in a later post. Rafa's suggestion of la LLar should be heeded; we had a memorable esperdanyes dish for one luncheon. This Catalunya specialty was harvested near Roses we were told. We would also echo the wisdom of enjoying El Raco can Fabes which Corinne endorsed. I guess it is dubbed Can Fabes these days. Spend the small fortune and enjoy a remarkable meal.

Let me enthusiastically second the suggestions of both Botafumeiro and Joan Gatell. I had very good experiences at both. You cannot go wrong with a mixed steamed seafood platter at Botafumeiro. Gatell was more "prepared" dishes ← I am a true lover of seafood and fish. So I will suggest some alternative options. Starting with Galicia where Spain is indebted to this area for exquisite examples of both fish and seafood, plan to vist Sanxenxo and specifically, La Taberna de Rotillio. THis was not our original destination. Armed with Victor's most engaging description of a good Gallician seafood restaurant, we anticipated lunch at Pepe Vieira. The weather was so miserable, we arrived in Sanxenxo eager to find any luncheon location we happened upon. Never saw Pepe Vieira. Found La Taberna de Rotillio which proved to be extraordinary. We will go back to try La Taberna de Rotillio and maybe find our original destination, Pepe Vieira.Barcelona's best seafood fish options are varied. We have visited Barcelona over the last ten years at least 50 times. We have visited Botafumeiro, 6-7 years ago when Michelin gave them l star. That Michelin star has been deleted for some time. Botafumeiro is a Gallician restaurant as are most of the best Barcelona seafood destinations. Out last visit was dreadful. Unlike our prior 3-4 visits, we were seated in the "American" section. We were offered an English menu which we felt was limited. The mediocre meal was delivered with uninspired service. We will never return. The other Gallician Barcelona restaurant of merit is Rias de Galicia. We repeatedly delighted in their fare for more than five years. For those wanting an alternative to Botafumeiro, we suggest this option. I would also agree with O'Pazo's menu in Madrid. In January, thanks to Victor, we had our favorite baby eel dish. There were many more exciting items on their varied menu for this old revered establishment. I can also suggest those visiting the Basque country, to try Goizeko Kabi, in Bilbao; they will deliver percebes, baby eels and enumerable delightful traditional seafood or fish from this area. Many of the Basque's best chefs, if given enough notice, will happily offer an all seafood and fish menu. I would also suggest Etxebarri in Axpe-Marzana who will bow to your wishes for an unprecedented seafood and fish fare cooked a la brasa. A meal that cannot be duplicated anywhere in the world. This is a unique chef with superb provisions. We are intoxicated with this chef's extraordinary ability to deliver a superb product with a cooking technique that has no equal. I hope this offers some alternatives to the good examples already explored. Judith Gebhart

Hi Bux: Your interesting venture to go traditional after elBulli is intriguing. Even more enlightening was Victors report that there are few Catalonian restaurants that serve excellent traditional fare. Could we hear more about the distinction between modernized cooking versus traditional fare? I am interested in comparing the culinary virtues of both styles. Specific examples of superb traditional Catalonian fare would be most helpful. I appeal to the most informed eGullet members on this matter. Victor seems to be aware of these differences. I hope he will respond to this question or anyone else that can throw light on these distinctions. With anticipation, Judith Gebhart

We have yet to report our Spanish culinary journey of January 2005. We delighted in both Ca Sento and La Sucursal both Valencian restaurants which have menus of significance. Ca Sento serves the best of seafood and fish off the coastline of Valencia. THis small restaurant will satisfy your most demanding standards for great dishes from the sea. Make sure you have a luncheon or dinner reservation. We also echo Bux's recommendation for La Sucursal restaurant located in the IVAM or Valencia's Modern Art Museum. It is a delightful spot for its Valencian provincial inspired menu with an updated contemporary interpretation. We found Valencia an interesting community with some satisfying culinary destinations. Hope this thread has meaning for those planning to visit Valencia. Judith Gebhart

I have an opinion about Moo which we visited last year in January 2004. We have been Roca brothers supporters since 1998. We applaud their culinary achievements. Moo in our experience was a poor representation of the Roca brothers talent as it played out at the time of our 2004 visit. The wait staff was not educated nor informed about the Roca brothers immense talent; I fault the Roca brothers for their Barcelona restaurant failings. Their failure to educate this staff is most unfortunate. Our dining experience was terribly flawed. We essentially dined on a meal that was conceived in 2001 at their remarkable Gerona restaurant. It has been over a year since we sampled the Roca brothers talents in Barcelona. We truly hope there has been an improvement of the many menu items that the Roca brothers have instituted at this restaurant in this hotel in Barcelona. Judith Gebhart

Bux: I am truly sorry that my response to this post ended up sounding more like an endorsement for the RGS guide book, than an endorsement of the chef at Can Jubany. That was NOT my intent. Let it be known that we check all the guide books available in Spain for our consideration of any restaurant we visit. We have first hand experience about RGS's various views regarding both Spanish and American chefs. I am shocked that RGS views Dufresne as the best chef in the USA; I think that says more about RGS than anything else. My point was lost and seemingly overlooked about the emerging talent that we perceived at Can Jubany. El Raco con Fabes is a definite culinary destination. The restaurant is gorgeous and Santamaria is a major talent with infinite ability to offer an exciting dining experience. Is he consistently great? Not by our experience. I would consider him a must visit. I would endorse both Sant Pau and El Celler de Can Roca as equally first choice dining options. All are expensive and established chefs with impeccable qualifications. My suggeston for this up and coming restaurant Can Jubany might be a worthy option for this enquiring visitor. Thank you Victor for explaining a detail about RGS's heritage. I am indebted to you for knowing the facts. I also find it very interesting! I hope I am heard. Judith Gebhart

I want to recommend Can Jubany, a restaurant just outside of Vic. We have dined there twice three years ago. At the time RGS was less than enthusiastic about this chef, rating him a 7. We found this chef to be very talented.In 2005 Can Jubany recieved an 8 point status by RGS on his 10 point scale. Needless to say no one in Spain has achieved a 10 point status. Ferran Adria has been given by RGS a 9.75 rating for 2005. THis is the highest status RGS affords any chef in Spain. RGS is Basque. Andoni Luiz Aduriz achieves a 9.5 rating in the Basque country as does M. Berasategui for 2005. For those unfamiliar with RGS ratings, Sant Pau ( a wonderful female chef without equal) is rated 8.5 by RGS . He also rates Santamaria, the truly talented chef of El Raco con Fabes with an 8.5. RGS is a respected reporter of the best of chefs in Spain. His Spanish guide book is named: Lo mejor de la gastronomia. The RGS is Rafael Garcia Santos. Consider his recommendations for any of your culinary evaluations when in Spain. Can Jubany's chef has clearly advanced since our last visit. His talent was evident to us three years ago. We return to his restaurant in May 2005 to experience his latest culinary achievements. There are other new talents in the provinces north of Barcelona that deserve your attention. We are exploring them this next trip and hope to report our findings. With respect, Judith Gebhart

Docsconz: Thank you for an interesting presentation of Wylie Dufresne's wonderful and helpful education of chefs from other places in the world that deserve our attention. Wylie as host to these guest chefs offered a marvelous chance to NYer's to sample a rich, interesting cuisine from this area in Spain. I wish more of our chefs everywhere were open to such foreign culinary contributions. Nice presentation and glad you shared it with us. Judith Gebhart

If there is any interest in BCN hotels, I would like to suggest two relatively new hotels on the P. de Gracias. We found the most architecturally balanced old and new, small boutique hotel to be the Prestige at no. 62, P de Gracias. The best rooms have a terrace overlooking the P. de Gracia and offer a marvelous view of Gaudi's Batlo. It has a marvelous young staff that is extremely helpful. The breakfast room is beautifully arranged and offers fare that competes with the best of the Claris and the Majestic. The price is right for the location. The other newest architectural gem is the Casa Fuster which is a Modernista design of Montaner. This remarkable architectural masterpiece was carefully transformed into a lovely hotel on the P. de Gracia, just north of the Diagonal. It is very pricey. It is worth your scrutiny for its rich architectural features. It has a very nice dining room with an excellent chef as of October, 2004. There are some decoratiion decisions that can and should be challenged. The entire renovated environment is a pleasure to behold. It is worth at least one night to experience one of the greatest, Modernista talents available to the public. We have never liked the Majestic. We have always loved the Claris. Our first BCN greatest hotel love is now priced beyond our pocketbook. It is a first rate destination. Judith Gebhart

This was Serge Arola's Barcelona connection. We ate there thinking that La Broche's superb chef would contribute to the Arts long history of good chefs for their most prestigious dining room. WRONG! The impact of Arola's contribution to our dining experience in May, 2004 was grim. It was without a trace of Arola's talents.The ambience of the dining room was a tribute to the hip 20's year old crowd. The music and bar scene had nothing to do with fine dining. The service was indifferent. It was a monumental, culinary disaster. We will never return until we have some reassurance that some talented chef is truly in charge. Gourmetour 2005 rated it 5 out of 10, their LOWEST classification. The Arts is a desirable hotel. Their serious dining location fails to deliver a decent meal. Judith Gebhart

Yes and it was dreadful. I am speaking about Arola's efforts at the Arts hotel. It was as bad as anything could be for the Arts hotel. Until the Arts changes their major dining room restaurant's major chef, we will not support any food effort initiated by the hotel. J Gebhart

the hotel's website actually quotes 175/245EUR as their price range. Casa Camper was designed by Fernando Amat, of Vinçon fame, a respected designer and a great store. I haven't been in Casa Camper, but I think of Camper as a clever, innovative and stylish brand with has had great success, given they started as a small shoe company in Majorca and now they are a household name in Spain and quite possibly Europe. So while it might not be the best value, I think its definitely worth the visit. Silly. ← Silly: Thanks for your website for Casa Camper. It is delightful and satisfies our concerns about price. Campers responsible environmental and structural concerns are very admirable. We are supporters of their enlightened position. Thanks. We will include Campers hotel in our choice for special Barcelona hotels we want to visit. We love the shoes; especially when they are on sale. Judith Gebhart

We have had many Barcelona visits and we certainly endorse your experience. It is a bit out of the way but truly worth the visit. Thanks for your note as it sparked our memory of a good Barcelona wine destination.

As tjd says, this is the "upper" Raval which is much nicer than the lower part, and the hotel seems to se around the corner from the Macba and CCCB museums. The area in general is quite safe and very close to other main tourist points, i.e. 4 blocks from Plaza Catalunya. However the whole area, as Victor points out, is going through a gentrification process, blending together hot and trendy new restaurants and bars, halal butcher shops, pakistani restaurants, prostitution zones, etc. You'll find pickpockets in the Rambla de Raval, but nothing to worry about if you use some common sense and keep an eye on your belongings (as you would anywhere you travel, I guess). If you're familiar with New York I would say it is more Lower East Side than it is Soho. Will you feel safe/unsafe? I guess it's a personal matter. I've walked through the neighborhood at night many times without ever feeling threatened, but I know my wife feels quite uneasy, and I've had "odd" encounters every now and then with drunks and such. Would I stay at the hotel? Definitely (I'm a huge Camper fan!). But it boils down to how comfortable you feel in these situations. Hope it helps, Silly. ← We have also heard about the new Camper hotel mentioned in Food and Wine or Gourmet. Little significant information was included about the range of rates but they appeared to be high. High rates for us are 350 euros.The rates in the newest Barcelona hotels are high; like the unique architectural modernista gem turned elegant hotel, Casa Fuster on the Passeig de Gracia and the H R Neri 21 room hotel beautifully decorated, on Sant Sever near the Old town cathedral. The latter is raising rates in excess of our budget. Furthermore, we ate at their tiny, tony restaurant. I got miserably sick from the food; my husband fared better. We would stay at the hotel but not at their 2005 rates. Our stay at the Casa Fuster was at discounted, promotional prices, fortunately. Both the hotel and restuarant are worth the price for at least ONE night. There is no more spectacular modernista architectural gem turned hotel in Barcelona!! Now we have found an elegant newcomer on the Passeig de Gracia which is both a beautifully renovated combination of old and new: the Prestige Paseo de Gracia. In some rooms you have a wonderful view of Casa Batlo and other architectural marvels known as the Manzana de la Discordia. The rates are reasonable and the service is exceptional. Now this thread is about Barcelona's newest hotels. So the Camper is a delightful addition for the Barcelona visitor, but is it worth the visit?? Judith Gebhart

I had some excellent advice from kind members about what to buy from Lavinia. You can try some of vserna's excellent wine and there is an excellent selection of wines from around the world. It's not the most atmospheric place but it's well worth a visit. See this thread ← We have repeatedly experienced the best selections at Lavinia. Will you tell us what is the name of VSerna's wine and where is his vineyard? Would appreciate knowing. Thanks Judith Gebhart