MobyP

Do better restaurants exist at this level? I'm sure that worse ones do. As FG says, they're such a different aesthetic, it is simply about preference of style, or substance. I'm not sure much is achieved by labeling a choice as in any way objective. Superficially you could label ADNY as 'classical' as opposed multi-course new-wave, but it doesn't give you much in terms of real info. Go to one. Wait a while. Save up the bucks. Go to the other. Enjoy yourself tremendously at both. Then, if you feel like arm wrestling, there's a bar in Jersey I know...

Maybe three in a row would be too much even for their post-modern haute sensibilities. Damnit, I hope you refused to pay the check!

You always want their best game - and if that means two lobsters, so be it. But it may also have to do with customer status. Steven, as you were getting two seperate lobster preparations later, which amuse did they give you?

I knew it. The truffle gods are against me. Steven, didn't the 'highness' of the pheasant clash with the white truffles? Do you think they hung the birds for long, or maybe for a shorter period so they wouldn't go up against the tartufi?

I just love the way he leaps heroically on someone else's bandwagon and grabs the bloody reigns!

Hmm - first time I went I heard the angels singing. Second time I thought maybe it was the plumber's choir down the road. Third time's a charm I guess.

Could you tell us more about the demo? What did they prepare? What points were they trying to get across? And why do you think that Ducasse was taking part? Does he still want to be seen as a hands-on chef?

I don't know what it was. Embarassment, shame, a lack of confidence? Not taking the meal seriously enough? I'm just not someone who would usually let a full stomach get in the way of a trolley laden with magnardises. Steven mentioned above somewhere that it simply wasn't possible to eat more than four courses at Delouvrier. Perhaps it's that simple. Either way, be prepared. That lobster was a keeper.

I've been in a few three star (Michelin) rooms in my time, but nothing which approached the sheer luxuriousness of ADNY. Being on my own, they gave me a great table in a corner where I could be secluded, but still keep watch over the room. Unlike ADPA, which is a sort of unfocussed ballroom type of affair, this room had a very nice sense of intimacy to it; like L'Ambroisie, but more spatially interesting. I asked if the chef could choose my meal from the alc, which they said would be fine. The first two amuse were, as described by milla, very nice indeed. Two gougeres, followed by the martini glass with a gelée of gaspacho with a brunoise of veg, and lobster. To answer one Ducasse question from above, the gelée was very similar to an amuse I had at ADPA - again in a martini glass, again with a brunoise of veg and lobster, but instead with a basil foam covering all (and over-salted to boot, if I remember). The only thing I'll add to milla's description was that the gelée was at exactly the right temperature to be truly appealing - not too cold, and not at room temperature. It wasn't over gelatined either, having just enough internal structure to give a very pleasant mouth feel, before dissolving under duress of body heat. My first course was the "Variegated scallops, clear Osetra caviar, lemon and olive oil." This was a superb way to start the meal, saying everything about Delouvrier's sharing of an absolutely perfect ingredient in a deceptively simple form. The presentation reminded me of a Robuchon dish. Three scrubbed scallop shells resting on a compressed bed of sea salt, each shell containing two small scallops, which I believe were raw, each scallop having a small dollop of caviar. The two surrounded by a light pool of olive oil and a drop or two of lemon. Every mouthful was a journey. My second dish, Maine lobster, leeks and potatoes, tarragon emulsion, moved on to the complexities of three (or in the case of New York, four) star cooking. A claw, and a few segments of buttery tail, resting on a risotto-style preparation of potatoes and leeks - meaning a soffrito, then adding the diced potatoes and with small additions of stock and stirring, bringing them to a state of creamy emulsion and tenderness, surrounded by a powerful reduction of lobster jus scented with tarragon. Tasting this on it's own, it was almost as potent as a veal glace - explosive, but divine and sticky. But cleverly, by the time your fork chooses a piece of lobster (with a thin coating of beurre monté), pushes through to collect a few pieces of potato and leek, and made it to the sauce, it had become diluted just enough to make a tremendous sauce. This reminded me of a dish that I came across when reading about Alain Chapel, a lobster and potato stew which he found made by fishermen, and returned with a variation to his restaurant. The mixing of the high preparation of lobster, with a basic preparation of potato seemed to be coming from the same culinary universe. The final addition of the sauce and presentation brings it cleanly to its deserved high status. The main course of Berkshire pig “confit”, crispy pork belly, butternut squash and pumpkin gnocchi was not a disappointment, but neither was it at the same level as the other two dishes. High quality pork, the likes of which is relatively common in England, is pretty forgiving to different cooking methods. This was done adequately, and at a decent level, but not I would say so exceptionally as to be better than many preparations that I've had at lesser restaurants in England. As milla describes, three different pieces, including belly (although mine certainly wasn't crispy), some shoulder, and some rolled back, each with a slightly different texture, surrounded by potato gnocchi, and butternut squash, with a rich sauce surrounding all. The problem with the dish, for me, was firstly its sameness, and then how rich it was relative to its rather large size. By the time I was half-way through, I was full. But more to the point, the tastes in the dish weren't taking me anywhere I hadn't already been two bites earlier, and I started to get a little bored. The belly, usually my favourite cut, although perfectly fine, wasn't the outrageously luxurious ingredient it's capable of being. The shoulder was very nice. The rolled back (which includes a cross section of loin) was the most successful. The gnocchi were perfectly good, but I suspect Jack Lang (Jackal10) would have something to say about their gelatinised-starch content (they weren't at all heavy, but neither were they ethereally light). The butternut squash also was perfectly fine. But after five bites, I was ready to move on. I declined the cheese course, and went straight to the Baba. At ADPA, my wife became ill half way through the meal, so I never got to taste this pre-ordered kettle-drum of a dessert. I was determined to here. As milla describes, the entire ceremony is wonderful. The selection of rums (I also had the 18 year old). The silver container, rolled back to reveal the glazed yeast cake (Krispy Kreme eat your heart out). The waiter cutting down the center, pouring over the rum (from a small silver jug), and then a great dollop of vanilla cream. Ah, I began to resent that pork even more, as it had almost finished me off. I barely made it through this lovely dish. I'm not a fan of liquors (for taste rather than prudishness), and this never became too alcoholic for my palate. The rich sweetness of the outside of the cake evolving into the simple bready texture of the inside; the differing proportions of cream, rum, bread and glaze, gave each mouthful something different. This would be a great dessert to share, if someone was inclined. That's it. I was done. When the trolley of mignardise came around, I could only whimper and wave my napkin at them in surrender (and Homer Simpson-like, I usually keep going until they refuse to bring me any more, but in this case I was finished). The service was very good, and seemed to be directed by my requirements, rather than the other way around. I mentioned early on that I wouldn't drink much, and they found me two lovely wines - a white from California, and a red from (surprisingly) upstate New York. I apologise for not writing down the names. They were both beautiful. And unlike in France, the sommelier and assistant weren't in the least patronising or bored, but generous with their time, attention and energy, and seemed determined to pick well. I would like to return here again, something I wasn't sure of at ADPA. There seems an unostentatiousness about the Delouvrier-Ducasse combination. There is very good food to be had. My only quibble would be the size of the menu. The choice seemed somehow limited, especially in the meat (pork, lamb, or pheasant, with a steak for two), which is why I had the chef order for me. It would have been nice to stretch further afield with some more interesting ingredients - offal, or other oddities. Edit to add: a quick glance at the Paris menu (ADPA) shows a white truffle menu is already being served - which I would have leapt at. And in Monaco, there seems a very extensive menu with enormous creativity. It seems that New York is playing its cards close to its chest for the moment.

Isn't there a French Laundry dish of quail stuffed with foie gras and then confit'd? Would anyone know of a recipe?

Like Woody Allen who once said if he had to be reborn and come back as anything, he hoped it would be Warren Beatty's fingertips - I'm holding out for that organ which resides somewhere between Robert Brown's palate, and where he stores all of those memories of astonishing meals he's encountered over the years. I had a very, very nice meal at ADNY on Thursday last. I would say it was a great meal, but given my expectations for my next life (see above), a judicious modesty prevents... Details may take me a while (due to time restraints), but I would also choose another go at Delouvrier or Ducasse over the Keller meal I had a couple of years back.

It was lovely meeting you all. I'm only sorry I didn't get to share the final pie, not meet Owen. Much thanks to Sam for arranging. SuzanneF - not to worry. The next time an eGulleter tells me to wear my pants on my head, I'll understand it's a euphemism.

Graham - good review. Welcome to eGullet.

Hmm... as I'm here (in NY), maybe I should check up on him - just for scientific purposes.

Superb list. But who the fuck's Marco Pierre White? A restaurant manager in a list of chefs? I don't think so. Actually, interesting to see Ducasse ahead of Robuchon (which seems reasonable), and Chapel not there at all.

What a superb review.

Well, ever since reading the FL book, I've become a bit of a sieving neurotic. The matfer is my first threshold - pouring the cooked stock/bones/mire poix etc through for the first time. It holds a good volume, preventing the bits from falling in with the stock, and rests well against the rim off the pot. For 'cleaning' up my sauces/stocks however, it's a bit large. I tend to put one regular-sized sieve inside of another - sometimes three at once (in decreasing mesh size) which catches about 90% off particulates not caught by the matfer. Then I pour it through my skimmer, which has the finest mesh I know. Again, I only mention it, because from eye-balling it, it seems like the Matfer is a finer mesh than my other sieves, but it's difficult to guage - or my eyes aren't good enough.

The Matfer has been great for me - although despite having - or appearing to have - a very fine mesh, it allows through more particulate matter than I expected. It is rugged though, and goes in theh dishwasher.

First of all, Sam is the master of all things here. I am but a mixed metaphor sea-slug in the kitchenware store of life compared to Orca 'Hawking' Kinsey! As to the two handle/one handle thing, it's a matter of picking the thing up. I have a six quart long-handle mauviel sauce pan - and it's almost impossible to lift when full of liquid (I use it for high temp reductions among other things). My step mother has exactly the same pot (construction wise), but with two side handles instead - and it's just a matter of her being able to lift it. It's much, much easier with two. If i was to do it again, I'd probably go in that direction. As for the oval question, interestingly, for me the deep versions work for smaller quantities of larger objects where you don't want to use gallons of stock or wine to cover (because of less internal volume). For example, I have a Creuset oval pot which works great for braising long pig's trotters, torchons of stuffed pig's cheek, or smaller quantities of oxtail. Large irregular objects. You can of course use it as you would use any other similar pot (ragus, stews, regular braises, frying or sauteeing at a pinch). The oval frying pans on the other hand... I don't understand.

Surely you don't mean the "Famous Dick" flat steels? I bought a flat steel, but I find the grain a little harsh. It tends to grind, rather than straighten. But then again, I tend to suffer from SAD (Sharp Anxiety Disorder). so maybe what I really need is a Famous Dick.

I think there's a Thai place off the King's road (London) called Phat Phuc

Fi - sorry I didn't get back to you earlier. My oven themerometer was reading in the 225-250 F range (which is over 100C, not the 90C I mentioned above), so my controls are a bit off also. But 6-8 hours left me with perfection. And actually, we quoted your mum, Fi. Served it with Jackal's pomme puree, and some buttery cabbage with a hint off white wine and vinegar ("Mmm" said kate, "JUST to cut the richness") in emulation of choucroute as a standard. And of course, cabbage is great for dinner parties. Blanch, saute with butter/wine etc, reheat before serving.

I just confit'd some in olive oil for about 6-8 hours at around 90C (having salted and thymed it over night). When it came time to serve, I pan fried it skin down, which produced the most perfect crackling ever. The texture of the meat was glorious. You could do it the night before, and reheat (pan sear, then 5 mins in an oven).

Thanks Romaney.

Has anyone been here recently - and any recs on the autumn menu?