MobyP
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This is the recipe as described in several of Robuchon’s books and how he has prepared it on French television.
The amount of butter is 200-250 grams for 1 kg of potatoes. The steps are almost as described in the thread. After the potatoes have been passed through a food mill, the mash is stirred in order to dry in a pot on very low heat for five minutes. The butter should be incorporated little by little and it is not whisked vigorously at this point. Before the milk is added, the seasoning should be rectified. The milk should be incorporated little by little after which the pure is beaten with a whisk in order to incorporate air. Finally, it is passed through a tamis, which gives it the right texture.
Degusto,
Check out the Simply French Cookbook, the recipe is different than the one that you give.
Peace,
Molto E
Patricia Wells has changed a few of the recipes in the book in order to make them accessible to an American market. If you look at the recipes which Robuchon publishes under his own name, there are differences.
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Ulterior - you keep calling me Molto (in the truffle thread too). Look at the name!
I was wrong about ADPA - although I believe they used to do it. At ADNY, however, they let you chose 3 or 4 courses - making up your own menu:
"$150 Choice of one appetizer, one fish or one meat and one dessert
$175 Choice of one appetizer, one fish, one meat and one dessert"
So you're not paying for individual dishes, but for the overall number. You can certainly have 2 or 5 dishes, and they would price them individually.
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That Michelin is giving three stars to all-tasting-menu restaurants is a sign of the times, which you can make of as you wish.
Waitasecond. I'm pretty sure this was written of in the book of revelations. Isn't this one of the signs?
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Sure. Ducasse, for years now. Although his servings are too large to eat five. Four is usually enough to make you regret not having that second stomach surgically attached.
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2 pounds potatoes-russets
3/4 to 1 1/4 cups whole milk brought just to a boil and set aside
16 tablespoons chilled butter cut into pieces
sea salt to taste
A few changes to this.
First, Robuchon uses a type of potato much much higher in starch than a russet - a variation of a ratte potato. If you're in the states and you have access to a good farmer's market, look for variations of fingerling style potatoes. Best to experiment with those to find what you want. If you can't find them, Tom Collichio substitutes Yukon Golds.
Second, unless you're a very experienced cook, check out the double boil method in Jackal10's potato primer egci class. No need to run it under cold water if you have enough ice around.
Third, the amount of butter Robuchon uses is up to half the weight of the potatoes. No, I'm not kidding. Obviously you'll use less (everone does). The point is, it should be the best unsalted butter you can find. It should also be very cold.
Fourth, the milk comes last. Once you have a sufficient emulsion with the potato and butter, you can actually let it cool for a couple of hours until you need it. Cooks in Robuchon's kitchens (and Heston Blumenthal's for that matter) then reheat it over a flame, whipping in scalding hot milk until they have the temp and texture they want.
Edit to add: avoid at all costs using a blender. It can shear the potato cells releasing the liquified starch, leaving you with wallpaper paste. For explanation, check out the egci thread.
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Moby,
Why did you use only a third of the stuffing? Decision or what? I dont know man. You got some tough competition.. She was on the Cuban Cigar Rolling Team for 6 years.. She was champ of the 13 yr old all divisionals..
I too am curious to compare our results.. I hope this works.. It seemed perfect.. But If there is something wrong, hopefully there is a way to fix it.. If not, I will learn and make it better..
As I discovered with mine, there's very little that frying it in butter until nice and crispy won't fix!
As for why, I guess I was after more of a ballotine effect, rather than an involtini, which is how I think yours is going to come out. So, just an aesthetic choice, not a right or a wrong one.
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It's illegal to 'caponise' - castrate - cockerals in this country, but not to import them from France. Also, some butchers will sell very large birds inaccurately described as capons, but they're not the real thing.
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When you cook something like this for that long, it becomes incredibly soft. The hanging just allows it to maintain its shape, rather than sinking slightly against the plate.
I only used about a third of the stuffing that you do in the picture, and then all placed in the middle so that it would roll easily. I'm interested to see how this turns out. Good job Daniel.
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Does anyone work near Baker street? Perhaps they could pop by Du Pain Duvin and ask.
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Good butchering. I would say you probably want to slightly under-cook it, because you'll be cooking it again for 4 or 6 hours when cut in batons. So an hour or a bit longer will probably do it - remember you still have to peel the skin off. So - poach it until it siezes up, but before it starts to relax again.
I've seen the pictures of your other food. I'm sure you'll do great.
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i'd be suprised if the ledbury got one straight away, given michelin's general desire to see restaurants settle down for a year or so, despite their quality.
Unless you happen to open in New York.
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Maybe - as British people - we're missing the long held opportunity to look at this from the reverse angle of "we're rubbish, why does the world hate us, he can't cook to save his life, Michelin are probably going to sail off into the sunset anyway and rightly so!"
So, to start, Gordon to lose a star?
Scotland declared Dinner non grata?
Yorkshire relegated to 'Interesting Ethnic' Food?
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Under-rated: ...pork belly, horse
Boy, if I had a penny for each time that pork belly was under rated, I bet I could afford a volkswagon.
Had some frites cooked in horse fat the other day. Very nice they were too.
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Shove that pastrami on a popsicle stick, throw it in the freezer, and send it to me!
A pastramicle!
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Have you done Maze? Or is it Graze? Atherton's place...
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Nice!!!! Moby,
Did you post Any photos anywhere? Please feel to post them here, if not.. If I go this most likely route, I will take your advice to the letter..
Daniel
Sorry - no pictures. But the intstructions in the book work pretty well (although they're among the most vague in the collection). Also, the first time is always a bit intimidating when using unusual ingredients, but you'll see it wasn't so hard after you're done. Also, it doesn't take much longer to do two than it does to do one. I used to keep an extra one in the freezer. Occasionally, if I had a guest for breakfast, I'd defrost one, cut off a few rounds, sauté them in butter until crispy on the outside, and serve with scrambled eggs (I told them it was a sort of fancy 'bacon and eggs'). Everyone, and I mean everyone, thought it was the best pork they'd ever had. The crispy exterior, the incredible melting interior - really, you'll love it.
Keller says to poach the rolled and tied head for - I think - about 6 hours, but that means you have to be spot on with your temperature. The cheeks have huge amounts of internal collagen, but they can still get stringy. Also, do remember to reshape the roll after it's cooled down to get a tight cylinder. It will make all the difference when you go to cut it into rounds. You need it compact so that it won't fall apart when you're frying them.
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I was trying to get a friend to send me some pastrami - they apparently do send to the military overseas, but not - alas - to the English.
Go figure.
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I can give you the 50 cent tour.
Alba - or white - truffles are all about the aroma, and texture. They have very little actual taste. They are always shaved raw - to cook them would destroy the aroma. Also, very few Alba truffles actually come from Alba - most in fact (in Italy as well) come from former Yugoslavia, Croatia etc. Bad imitations can come from China, and I understand they're almost worthless culinarily speaking. Typical uses include as a garnish for eggs, northern Italian pasta, risotto, gnocchi - plain starches usually served with no more than butter or a little cream and reggiano.
Black - or Perigord - truffles can be served raw or cooked. They can also (unlike their paler brethren) be preserved in veal or mushroom stock, or some do in alcohol. They tend to be approximately one fifth the price of white, and thus are used far more widely. Typical uses include pates, foie gras terrines, sauce perigourdine, scallops, poulet demi deuil (with truffle under the skin) and 40 or 50 other classics.
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I've done this recipe a 3 or 4 times - it's delicious - although I usually get the butcher to bone out the head for me. For the tongue, follow Keller's notes, but try to keep the poaching liquid at or below the temp he gives. If it's too high, the tongue will dry out - remember, you're braising it again when wrapped in the cheek. It really adds to the flavour and texture of the ffinished dish.
The second thing is to trim the fat to as thin a strip as possible. Although delicious when cooked, it does begin to overwhelm, after a while.
The third thing is to find some (lamb or veal) sweetbreads and include those too, if you can, as in the recipe. They add a great texture.
Good luck.
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I've been spending far too much time, if that's possible, thinking about surrounding birds and foie gras with puff pastry. This started because of a dish I heard about in Paris by the chef Bernard Pacaud. I am obviously not the only one, however. This morning I read Jan Moir's review of Jesmond Dene House in Newcastle, where they do a partridge and foie pithivier. And, of course, the new Galvin place has brought out an Autumn pigeon and foie pithivier.
The funny thing is, although a tremendously classical dish, I hadn't heard of this sort of thing in the UK before this season (unless you go back to Roux brother days).
So, can anyone think of other recent examples? Have they always had a presence, or do they seem to be emerging? And I admit, two pithiviers does not a political party make, but still...
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Still a big fan of pret, though it's not quite as brilliant as it was. McD's I do occasionally to punish myself with (or my liver, I haven't decided). I was in nandos last night with the family - surrounded by a dozen other families with nippers, which tells you all you need to know. The price for 2 was in the 14 pound range, so that has to be saying something. In stark contrast to the Ducasse fast food joints in Paris, Monaco and New York, where I couldn't get bloody piri piri sauce for love nor begging.
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I have taken the liberty, it being a long weekend here and such, to start a new thread asking folks to respond to the question that getxo asked elsewhere, specifically:when dining at a fine restaurant (i.e., starred), what's wrong with asking to meet the chef in person after the meal-especially to know exactly who did the cooking and to offer praise or criticism?
Is it really absurd to think that say- Jacques Cagna is not working on a night when he said he would be in?
My answer is of course, why not?
But recall the old saw attributed to Ducasse, maybe apocryphal, "Who cooks when you're not here?" Ans: "The same guy as when I am here."
That expression has been doing the rounds, having been heard most recently from Keller. But I believe that Bocuse is the linguistinc pappy to that particular aphorism.
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As I'm sure your man will tell you, you have to brush the earth off truffles before they're allowed to enter the states, but it apparently makes them degrade much faster.
Le Champignon Sauvage
in United Kingdom & Ireland: Dining
Posted
I believe D E-M uses agar for the warm gels.