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MobyP

eGullet Society staff emeritus
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Posts posted by MobyP

  1. Btw, I don't know if this has been posted here or not, but I recently stumbled onto Wylie's recipe for gellan based fried mayonnaise:

    http://www.starchefs.com/chefs/rising_star..._dufresne.shtml

    the recipe itself is kinda nice but its wrong to say that gellan is "not thermoreversible" it can bear a lot of heat, but once you get to 100c it melts pretty quickly.

    Heat range of Gellan gum – if you get the right concentration and ph and salt levels, you can actually fry it.  You can cut a slice of Gellan and actually sauté it.  I once put it on the solid top to see what would happen. Or a deep fat fryer.
  2. This is all a high tech way to say that fluid gels are basically Jello put in a blender.

    this is not correct

    if you would apply strong sheer forces to a gelatin aka "jello" it would simply melt and reset. this doesnt happen with gellan, once set you can only remelt it with large amounts of heat ;-)

    Correct me if I'm wrong, but I think most people here, Nathan included, understand the impact of shear on gelatin. Nathan's statement inherently implies that it's a 'form of' jello put in a blender. A form of jello comprised of gelling agents that produce fluid gels when exposed to shear.

    At least that's how I read it ;)

    Just to restate what Heston told me - he doesn't want a high velocity bamix or blender precisely because it begins to incorporate air into the mix. That's why he uses a slower overhead mixer to shear the cells without adding air. Otherwise you're making a foam, rather than a fluid gell.

  3. I've heard from my brother (who lives in France) that the Fat Duck had some serious issues about hygiene. Is this some rumor spreading on the other side of the channel or is that true?

    There were some small issues, but they were cleared up. And I don't believe it had anything to do with cleanliness.

  4. I know people who have spent 200k Euros on a car...

    L'Ambroisie's prices do not astonish me.

    It's called priorities.

    "The language of priorities is the religion of Socialism."

    L'Ambroisie - "Working Man's Food."

  5. I save up for quite a while, take on extra freelance writing jobs, and accept all birthday donations to pay for my trip (which includes a Eurostar train ticket arriving in the morning and leaving in the evening). You'll hear no complaints about price from me.

  6. A lunch with Magnolia at

    gallery_8259_2629_72078.jpg

    Once again I gave M. Pacaud a destination dish, in this case the Feuilleté de truffe fraiche "bel humeur", salad de mache, and asked if he could build me a meal around it. They kindly agreed. I don't have time for a full review - perhaps in a few days - but here are some pictures until then. Again, forgive the poor quality.

    The Menu:

    The amuse: Langoustine bisque with chardonnay, langoustine, with a dice of roasted pepper and pineapple

    gallery_8259_2629_31683.jpg

    Watercress puree with scallops, black truffle, and a truffle emulsion

    gallery_8259_2629_19701.jpg

    Then he went off-menu: Roasted pigeon with roast shallots, jerusalem artichokes, and sauce perigourdine.

    gallery_8259_2629_35005.jpg

    gallery_8259_2629_71849.jpg

    Finally the main event.

    Two thick slabs of black truffle surrounding a wedge of foie gras, roasted in puff pastry and served on a black truffle sauce. On the side a salad of mache with more black truffle.

    gallery_8259_2629_37771.jpg

    gallery_8259_2629_8996.jpg

    gallery_8259_2629_6047.jpg

    For dessert, a mandarin dessert centered around what I can only describe as a mandarin fondant, witth a mandarin sorbet and tuile on the side.

    gallery_8259_2629_5092.jpg

    By this point I was too full to remember to keep shooting, so I forgot to snap the miracle of a chocolate tart that came next, followed by mignardise. Will get to a proper review when I can.

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