cabrales

OSulliM78 -- If you are addressing the single-evening, black tie event, details are likely not yet available, to my knowledge. Was the restaurant unreceptive to placing you on the reservations list? That appears inappropriate. The black tie event is likely not invitations only, to my knowledge. You can mention that your friend received a mailing way back when. If that fails, PM me and I will follow up. I am not aware that the passing of the MM has affected the event -- at least no updates have been provided by WI. If the guests associated with the event are significant to you, perhaps that was the impediment to WI's responding to you?

jaybee -- Can I take it then that you would not be inclined to sample the Balut? It was quite tasty, with an intense duck flavor.

magnolia -- Consistent with the above, restaurants within roughly 2 hours of Paris would include: Boyer at Rheims/Reims; Lorain's La Cote Saint-Jacques at Joigny; and, easily, Bardet at Tours.

Kikujiro -- I may go to Orlando within the next year or so, as a weekend trip. If I went to Florida, I would try to swim with dolphins (it's available somewhere) and eat at Les Chefs de France, just for the sake of having tried it. Today's Wall Street Journal contains an article on how attendance is down at various Disney theme parks.

MartyL and Beachfan -- A 1996 Mersault Perrieres from Roulot was ordered ($200). Another example of white wine being decanted; still young, but a decent accompaniment for my turbot and lobster dishes. Not an ideal pairing with the sea urchin veloute and royale, but passable. A glass of Ducasse label champagne (there was also Pommery, non-Louise, and another producer) and a glass of white Burgundy-based dessert wine ($50/glass) contributed to the bill. The cuisine was not particularly good.

As members may know, Tours is a quick TGV ride from Paris (perhaps closer than Joigny). I have not yet sampled the cuisine of Bardet. Have members visited since the "description of products" fiasco? Also, what are members' views of the two other two-stars accessible from Tours?

Leslie -- Your book notes "Boulud is known as a master of classic terrines and ballottines, and his range in the garde-manger is tremendous, from a painterly presentation of tuna carpaccio with crispy sweetbreads, set off by a garnish as miraculously simple as celery leaves, to a lusty ballottine of duck foie gras with rhubarb confit, spiced hazelnuts, and a tangle of upland cress." Please consider further discussing Boulud's utilization of terrines and ballottines. Note I have not reviewed any of Boulud's cookbooks.

Leslie -- As you know, Daniel is part of Relais & Chateaux (Relais Gourmand). What degree of significance was attributed to that affiliation by Boulud and by other members of the kitchen and dining room teams, respectively? Did the restaurant receive a meaningful amount of reservations from R&C's website or phone reservations service (unlikely)? Is the use of the R&C reservations service one way to bypass the usual reservations policy at Daniel?

Kikujiro -- When you have a chance and if you recollect, could you provide an evaluation of some of the restaurants in and around the Orlando theme parks?

Wimpy -- I called L'Astrance for my own purposes. The message (in French) indicated the restaurant is closed until lunch on August 20.

Soba -- Agreed re: the lack of evaporation. In Poland & Russia, caviar is sometimes taken with a shot of vodka. Perhaps the inspiration for the dish was that pairing.

I can see how Boyer might be best hotel in the world if cuisine is considered, although I would not necessarily arrive at the same conclusion. The grounds are truly beautiful, with many areas for quiet walks. I really enjoyed sleeping on the stone benches one finds in the back area of the grounds. I don't think the Aman or other similar properties in Asia have anything over Boyer, subjectively. Who needs a massive spa when one has a three-star kitchen? Overall, I felt that the property is expansive, and yet well maintained. Where in Asia or North America does one find cuisine of the level obtainable at a number of French three-stars with rooms?

One can't tell for sure with Arman, but in certain French contexts, artists used to barter works for meals, or be friendly with a restaurant enough to gift works to them. Cocteau used to provide designs to La Mediterranee (spelling) in Paris, where one can still see some of his works, together with beautiful murals by other artists (one is unsure whether the mural artists furnished works for meals). The murals are a subject of a thread I began a few days ago on this restaurant. Apart from Arman, there is a artist whose oil paintings one finds at Troisgros and Auberge de L'Ill. At Troisgros, the one painting by this unidentified person is not placed in a prominent position. When one proceeds up the main staircase from the entryway to the hotel/restaurant at Troisgros to the gastronomic library (to one's left), one continues until the very end (without going to the library). There, one will find a large painting in hues of pink and red. It depicts the forms of both Jean and Pierre quite prominently, but they do not have facial features. However, they are easily recognizable; they are depicted in chefs' whites while in the kitchen. When I visited Auberge de L'Ill for the first time recently, I noticed the same artist's work in the main dining room (the one you turn right to reach, from the entry area; the one with white/green tones). There, on the left-hand-side of the room, is a large painting of the Haeberlin chefs, not in tones of red/pink, but with the same lack of facial features and in an unmistakably similar style to the Troisgros painting. When I wandered about to review the artwork at Auberge de L'Ill, I saw that there were still lifes of flowers, etc. in the greeting area of the restaurant/hotel by the same artist. Pic sells postcards of works of an artist called Peyret (?), whose designs include cartoon-like figures (including one of doves carrying by strings a cartoon character). When I asked a staff member why these postcards were being sold, she indicated that Peyret had liked the restaurant. Inside one of the ladies' washrooms (the one between the hotel main area and the sitting lounge with the vaulted ceilings where the pool table is located), there is a large glass window with beautiful Peyret designs (cartoon characters prominently featured). Other members' observations of artists whose works appear at several restaurants would be appreciated.

Soba -- Thanks; the vodka was not something I had expected would be in the dish.

The Travel & Leisure Reader Survey recently rated The Wickaninnish Inn as the #1 hotel in North America: http://www.relaischateaux.com/servlet/com....atcher?number=1 Note three-star chef Boyer's "Boyer Les Crayeres" topped the worldwide list.

I'd appreciate member input on where in or around the Gare du Nord (where the Eurostar from London arrives in Paris) one can find SIM cards. For example, do the "Relais" newstands offer them?

Well, at least my tastes are consistent. I have not found Ducasse's cuisine particuarly appeaing, whether sampled at Plaza Athenee (Paris) (although the cuisine is better than at ADNY, based on several meals at each), Louis XV (Monaco), Spoon (London branch; misguided), Bastide de Moustiers (poor, particularly after B Witz left for La Celle) or the co-venture with Bruno, Hostellerie de l'Abbaye de la Celle (better than Batide). I suppose I liked Plaza Athenee slightly better the last time I went. On Arman, I really enjoy Arman sculptures, including at Cello in NY (both outdoor large sculpture and indoor ones), Troisgros at Roanne (it's the outdoor sculpture in the plaza facing the restaurant), Maximin at Vence (like Troisgros, forks and spoons, but placed on the wall in a mural-like work) and Michel Rostang in Paris. Arman is likely to be an artist who enjoys cuisine.

Andy -- Did you visit the "Les Chefs de France" restaurant in Orlando? grillboy and I were discussing it just this past Friday.

tommy -- The expense wouldn't be a negative aspect if the cuisine were very good. Sadly, it was not. However, I continue to like the decor of the restaurant and its lushness. I appreciate Arman sculptures, and the large wall of musical instruments, together with the smaller sections higher up with splashes of burgundy color, were at least visually appealing.

Well, my attempts to resample balut failed, with my not having purchased an egg at Elvie's today. I am still uncomfortable when I recollect the visual effects inside the balut. That aside, Sandra Levine, Toby, Soba and I had an appropriate lunch there today. Perhaps the food was not as good as the only other time I have visited the restaurant, with the exception of the Pork Adobo. The dining party shared the various dishes, including Pork Soup with Tamarind, Mixed Vegetables with Shrimp Paste (this was only average), chicken skewers (the 3 drumsticks or wing sections included in each $1 order were appropriately moist), Chicken Adobo (a bit dry and not as good as the pork version), and Beef Stew (with carrots and potato slices). Our desserts were needed on a day with such difficult temperatures: a sundae cup with shaved ice flavored nicely with evaporated milk, a mango flan-like item, mango ice cream, canned litchees, various berry syrups, gelee-like items that had more elasticity, etc. We drank Red Chassange Montrachet -- Domaine Duc de Magenta, Morgeot Clos de la Chapelle 1997, from L Jadot. It was not appealing to me. It was also the first red C-M I had sampled. Wilfrid was thoughtful enough to stop by, although he was cooking a rabbit dish at home and did not stay for lunch.

Malawry -- If you are comfortable discussing it and without mentioning the specific classmates who may be implicated, were some students anxious after the exit of their peer? Is a 75 average relatively difficult to fall below?

Leslie -- Apologies for the inaccurate framing of my inquiry about Asian-American women chefs in NY. First, I'd appreciate knowing whether there are Asian American women chefs in NY whom you admire or have heard positive word-of-mouth about, apart from P Yeo and A Lo? Second, could you further discuss what you like about P Yeo's cuisine? (Note I have not yet sampled it)

Leslie -- I liked the book, particularly the background about how single-minded Loiseau was about attaining three stars. The book illustrated in some ways how insecure Loiseau might be. The chef's public personna in France is more confident. Among the interesting episodes described was how concerned Loiseau was that Patricia Wells enjoy her meal at La Cote d'Or. He apparently made her an all potato (or other similar) menu, and was relieved she enjoyed it. He even thought, for some reason, that a favorable P Wells review might aid him slightly with respect to the third star. I also liked the discussion about the lengths taken to secure the best products, including beef and cheese.

jordyn's recorder is quite compact. I am in the process of reviewing alternativce recorders to purchase. I will need one before I visit the three-stars in Spain, although that is not necessarily something on the immediate horizon.

Well, I have to say that, apart from Michelin, I do not necessarily rely on French guides. It would have to be Pudlowski's immersion, rather than his assessments, that I appreciate. For example, following the announcement of Michelin's conferral of three-star status to L'Arnsbourg, Guy Savoy and Ledoyen, there was a Michelin-related dinner at which each chef was asked to prepare a dish. I believe I have described this dinner on the board. J-G Klein of L'Arnsbourg was initially reluctant to present what he really wanted to -- a series of smaller dishes, somewhat akin to Adria in Klein's mind. Pudlowski heard about Klein's consideration of this on a timely basis, and encouraged the chef to move ahead with this possibility. What I like about Pudlowski is conviction.