docsconz

Interesting recipes, twodogs. I'm looking forward to trying them. On the simpler side, I had good luck this week peeling, cutting up and boiling white asparagus for about four minutes, pan-drying them and drizzling good EVOO and salt and pepper.

In this statement I believe you are very wrong. The dangers from SARS are very real. Mortality statistics for SARS are increasing towards 10%. All the numbers I am seeing, including China, Canada and Vietnam (Which seems to have stopped the spread, no new cases in 2 incubation periods) seem to round off at a bit less than 5% mortality. While still significant (Twice the mortality of influenza) I still feel the coverage is resulting in unnessesary hysteria in the general public. At least the media has not reached the duct tape and plastic stage as of yet. Mark, The latest figures from the WHO show a mortality of 12.7% in Canada, 7.9% in Hong Kong and 10.6% in Singapore. These are the areas where the most virulent forms of the disease have spread to. The mortality statistics in these locations are on an upward trend. The problem is that if this is not contained (and it may be too late for that), the number of cases will begin to increase exponentially. If it does increase, hopefully it will be the less virulent form. While it is true that we should not panic and we should not over-react, it is just as true that we should not underestimate the real danger and significance of this.

Fun thread! Thanks Craig for an excellent article and Steve for starting it. I can certainly attest to a lot of the same "rules" growing up in my Brooklyn, Italian-American household. Salad came after the main course, soda with pizza (I was a kid), pasta as a first course before a meat, fish or poultry based main course and certainly no cheese on seafood, with one clear exception. My mother used to make a crab sauce over bucatini pasta that to this day remains my ultimate comfort food. Live blue crabs were split open and cleaned out(roe was preserved) The upper shell was stuffed with an herbed bread crumb mixture that was mixed with grated pecorino cheese in about a 2:1 ratio. The stuffed shell was placed back on top of the crab body, tied together with butcher's twine and cooked in the tomato sauce for hours to permeate the flavors. The pasta with the sauce was heaven and even better the next day. After this, it was down and dirty eating the crabs. This was best done either with shirt off or a complete smock. Now I have to try to find fresh crabs. Unfortunately that is one of the problems of living where I do

I believe you hit the nail on the head.

I agree. The high-end restaurant should be sublime, but it does not have exclusive rights to sublimity. Simple, quality ingredients, well prepared are often the most delicious and soul-satisfying meals and are often the province of the good "middle" restaurants. That takes nothing away from the uber-chef who creates a dish that nourishes not just the soul, but the mind as well. To me, that is the ultimate, and indeed, "priceless". While this combination can and does occur at lesser known restaurants, it is most likely to occur at the upper extreme. The problem is that it doesn't occur as often as it should on the upper extreme. I've had too many meals that while good, have fallen short of this mark at prices that have not. It really comes down to a question of value. In terms of Robert's question, "Do you agree with my hypotheses that dining "in extremis" offers the most consistent rewards?", I would have to disagree. I find that well chosen "middle" restaurants are more consistently satisfying than the extremes, even though when I am satisfied by the upper extreme the satisfaction is greatest. In other words dining "in extremis" offers the greatest upside, as well as the greatest potential disappointment.

Unfortunately, this picture appears to be unavailable at present.

In this statement I believe you are very wrong. The dangers from SARS are very real. Mortality statistics for SARS are increasing towards 10%. That may not seem like much, but it most definately is, with otherwise healthy people succumbing to the disease. It is actually of significantly more concern than an organism that is much more deadly such as Ebola virus. Ebola works quickly and is almost certain death. While that is not good if you happen to be around ebola, the likelihood of being around it is much less. Since it is so efficient in wiping out its host it generally doesn't get to travel very far. SARS obviously does. In addition, it appears that at this time there may be at least several different strains of SARS virus with differing degrees of virulence. Hong Kong and Toronto appear to have been victims of a more virulent strain that so far seems to have avoided the U.S. Taking SARS very seriously does not mean that there is any evidence for avoiding anyplace simply because of the predominent ethnicity of the place. One does not get SARS from eating chinese or vietnamese or canadien food. A coughing and sick waiter or cook is not a good thing no matter the illness or the cuisine. Basic common sense public health rules should be reinforced for all restaurants. Everyone should be vigilant, but not phobic. Simon, while the likelihood of your contracting SARS by going to Toronto is statistically low, be aware that you will be at higher risk than if you do not go. Be prepared to seek help quickly and or quarantine yourself if you do wind up coming down with symptoms either during or after your trip.

Price matters only because of the expectations that often go along with it and how the restaurant meets those expectations. El Bulli may be "worth it" at five or ten tems their price or the cost of getting there. There may be a meal that is indeed "priceless" no matter what the charge. Obviously, that is the ultimate. If the question is "satisfaction", then I am satisfied at least as often at well chosen "middle" or "low-end" restaurants that meet or exceed expectations than I am at high-end restaurants that often do not meet or exceed expectations. Of course, my expectations are higher at these restaurants as they should be based on their reputations and their "prices". Nevertheless, the high-end restaurant is more likely to achieve the level of "sublime", which is why I choose to dine in those kinds of establishments when I can.

I think price is a very important consideration in this discussion. My expectations are different when spending $50pp on a meal than when spending $200pp. For $50 I am satisfied with a tasty, well cooked and nicely presented meal prepared in the style I'm expecting. For $200pp I should be wowed with truly delicious and creative food. When that happens it is the best, but it doesn't happen often enough, so there are many disappointments. Even though on an absolute scale the food may be better than the $50pp restaurant (or not), it may not be $150pp better (though sometimes it is infinitely better).

What are some other good Vin Santos ? I've had very few I'd consider memorable and a few I'd like to forget. Mainly due to lack of knowledge I've not had any other vin santi to rival Avignonesi's.

Are restaurants like Susur and Wai Lah Heen being effected?

I agree completely.

Fascinating post -thanks.

Recent thread on this topic.

I think Avignonesi's Vin Santos are amongst the finest wines in the world. I visited the winery in 1998 and came away with some '88's that were simply unbelievable. I served them at Christmas Eve 2000. I managed to buy some 89's. I'll probably save them for one of my son's birthdays.

I'm holding on to a '59 d'yquem for my 50th. I like to open bottles from our anniversary year (1986) on our anniversary and our kids birth years (1989,91 & 99) on their birthdays. I have put a case of wine away for each of them. For the '89 Lafite, Dominus for the '91 (I wish I bought a case of the Guigal super cote-roties) and Haut-Brion for the '99. They can have them to celebrate their own milestones with after they turn 21.

I would have to say yes - something can certainly become an acquired taste. There are many things I enjoy eating now, that I didn't at some point in the past. All of these things, however, have some reference point as being pleasureable, perhaps to a certain culture or a chronologic age. I would think that if a cuisine was based on total novelty and tasted such that one would need to be experienced to enjoy it, it probably would not reach the point that enough people would be willing to get experienced for it to become a gastronomic factor.

Whether it be Adria, Achatz, Keller or anyone else doing unique, unusual or esoteric food, the bottom line is it needs to work on a sensory level, not the least of which is taste. If the food ultimately doesn't make sense and doesn't taste good, it will fail and that Chef's reputation will suffer. That is the downside risk of the artist on the cutting edge. They could fail. But, if they don't fail, if they succeed, we have an Adria, a keller, etc. and their reputation is enhanced all the more and their place in history is secured. Of course, tastes change and favorites come and go, whether it be in the art world or the food world. My point is that the genius should not be held accountable for lesser lights that may follow and distort, bastardize or cause the work to be turned into a cliche. Just because I can throw paint on a canvas a la Jackson Pollock doesn't make me an artist (or him less of one), even though the net result may be visually similar to his. On the other hand if I could somehow find a way to take the influence of Pollock's work in a new, interesting direction, than perhaps I could be considered an artist (fat chance ). It is an extremely difficult thing to do, and very few can ever really hope to be successfully original, and of those, as in art, their genius may not be recognized until much later. Chef/Writer Spencer, you express admiration for Adria (you acknowledge his genius), yet you fret over overexposure and trivialization of his cuisine or that one of your favorites may get burned by delving too deeply into the avant-garde. I'm not concerned about that. The "market" will take care of poor imitators or even good imitators if the food ultimately doesn't stand up on its own merits after its initial novelty. If that happens someone else (or perhaps still Adria) will be there pushing the envelope. My conclusion is that no matter what others do with Adria's Cuisine, we are not worse off for what he is doing.

No wonder KFC is so expensive

Just because another artist can't quite copy the smile on the Mona Lisa doesn't make Da Vinci any less of a genius. If Adria gets it right and others try to follow, but can't, that doesn't lessen his artistry. I've never eaten at El Bulli, though I dream to. It doesn't matter to me if others attempt to copy his style. If they succeed and it works, great. If not, he's still doing his thing and apparently doing it amazingly well.

What an experience and so wel presented! Thank you. I almost felt as if I were there. If it wasn't before(and it was), El Bulli is certainly number one on my list of food destinations. When is the e-mail day for next year? does anyone know how they handle openings fromcanceled reservations a la Joe H?

Thanks again, that is a great site. I just signed up for their e-mail newsletter. I have previously supported the Institute For Justice in this regard, but their interests lie well beyond just this issue and not all of which I favor.

Jonathon, That was an interesting, well researched and well thought out post, except that I think your argument allows for discovery of superior and more economical experiences well below the high end "extreme" of Superstar Chefs. Let's say there are ten extremely talented chefs in a market, but economics allow for let's say two of them to become superstars, by glint of their good fortune, breaks and perhaps slightly better food. You still have eight chefs preparing superior food, only now it is less expensive and easier to get a reservation. They are most likely a better value, than the superstar who by virtue of his name can charge more. Taking it a step further, probably not all of those eight talented chefs (and maybe not a superstar) will stay in business due to economic or other reasons. Let's say three of the non-superstars can't hack it and go out of business. There are still five talented chefs producing quality foods at presumably a more reasonable cost and competing to make it to the superstar level or just happy where they are. The difficulty is hearing about and finding these chefs in the first place. It is easy to find the superstars, therefore they are more reliable, but also a greater disappointment if they don't live up to the hype. All that being said, the superstars are probably more likely to provide the truly spectacular, cost-is-no-object, once-(or more than, I hope )-in-a-lifetime kind of meal by virtue of greater resources afforded by their status. It is for this holy grail that I search out top restaurants wherever I go. I have been fortunate enough to have experienced some of these transcendant experiences, but I have also often eaten at a number of "lesser" restaurants that have outshone some of their big "superstar" brothers. The other satisfaction of the excellent lesser known restaurant is the thrill of discovery. That in itself is very satisfying when it occurs. Of course the bulk of middle restaurants are going to be boring and mediocre at best, by definition. Just look at all the corporate chain restaurants that are financially successful, because people are unwilling to take a chance on the "unknown". Most people prefer known mediocrity to the unknown. They prefer to be comfortable rather than push the envelope. Then again, most people are not eGulleteers!

Encouraging article - thanks. Now if only New York would follow that lead and legislate for free trade. Does anyone know what the current status is in NY courts? I know that the free traders have won the opening battles.

As far as the quality of LV restaurants, I actually preferred the LV Aqua to the SF Aqua.