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docsconz

eGullet Society staff emeritus
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Everything posted by docsconz

  1. I've had both and concur with this.
  2. Nathan, These have to be some of the all time greatest posts on eGullet! Thank you for not only doing the work, but taking the time to share it with us on eGullet. Magnificent. The one concern I still have with the food safety aspect is a lot of SV cooking temps make for a nice culture medium. It is therefore particularly important that hygeinic techniques re surface cultures be particularly adhered to.
  3. In fairness to Chef Cantu and his staff the food is much more visually appealing than amateur photos can ever make it out to be. That is the case even though the above photos are really quite good. The presentations are generally minimalist and spare, in a techno way consistant with the cuisine. The biggest problem photographically, however, is the lighting. It is relatively dark in the restaurant and very difficult to take good flash-less photos. I tried when I was there, but gave up. My photos did not turn out well.
  4. Gee, I have a veritable milkweed farm in my backyard!
  5. I am a very minor investor in one restaurant, which is in Seattle, Washington - Nell's. Chef Phil Mihalski was all set to do his dinner at the James Beard House - on Sept. 11, 2001. He cooked and donated his food to the relief effort.
  6. Molto E, did you say "milkweed pod"? I had no idea that they were even edible (other than to Monarch butterflies)! What was that specific dish like? I have to find a way to get back to Chicago.
  7. Definitely some interesting events coming up. Good topic, Daniel. It would also be interesting to hear perspectives from those cooking at the events. I know they are expensive for the chefs to produce.
  8. Thanks for the link, Luna Calvados. Interesting choices. At one time I would have agreed with this assessment, but no longer. First of all, the Inn was sold just over a year ago by the Taylors. While the food may still be good (I was unimpressed my last visit there this past November), it is clearly outshone by The Inn at Erlowest and maybe a couple of others. I should hope that I'll have better luck in Paris!
  9. I will follow this topic with interest. Thank you, Margaret, for posting it. Any thoughts on the Buttes Chaumant?
  10. Here is a brief discussion of some must haves at Pierre Herme from the thread on Chocolates by Pierre Herme. Dorie Greenspan particularly recommends the Ispahan. What about the other places?
  11. Last tome I was in Paris in May of 1999 there was an incredible Monet exhibit from collections around the world at The Orangerie. Magnificent. That Museum has most of the large scale Water Lillies. I know that it has been closed, but I believe that it is supposed to have reopened or will reopen soon. Who said the idea was well received?
  12. Given the names and shops mentioned in this topic, what would be the one or two most must-sample items for each? In other words what would be considereed the signature creation for each?
  13. It might be a matter of convenience as it is in the US. It is easier to pour a box of cereal than it is to run out to get a fresh loaf or croissants. Unfortunately, easier does not necessarily mean better.
  14. Fabulous post, Really Nice!! One possible alternative would be to finish the cooked lamb under a broiler or salamander to provide some maillard reaction and crispness. This might be particularly useful with the shorter cooking times. It might also help limit the potential for bacterial illness. When I was in Spain last year it seemed that all the sous vide meat cookery was "finished" with crisp outer coats. It was always incredible
  15. It certainly is sad to think that France may be losing some of its cheese patrimony. This is probably due as much to EU regulations as anything else. On a more positive note, however, Spain in general and catalunya in particular seems to be refinding some of its lost patrimony. It seems that a lot of traditional regional cheesemaking in Spain was stamped out during the Franco years. Slowly cheese artisans are regaining some of the techniques that have lain dormant.
  16. I am glad I asked! There really is some great advice on this thread. At this point my problem is not so much finding worthwhile restaurants, but deciding amongst them! I have been to Versailles as has my wife. It is an incredible spectacle. I can take or leave a return visit, but my wife really wants the boys to see it. I see it as a good opportunity for apicnic with provisions picked up from a Paris market - most likely Marche' Bastille for the intended day. We also plan on having dinner at the apartment that evening. I hope to visit L'Arc de Trionfe the evening we visit Gagnaire (I sure hope we get that reservation I requested!) although we will have to go back another time as well as two of the boys will be back at the apartment that evening. The explanation for this is that someone has to babysit our 6yo. Our eldest son will accompany my wife and I to El Bulli prior to the Paris part of our trip while the middle son stays with theyoungest. Turnabout is fair play so the tables will be reversed for Gagnaire. While our 6yo is good in restaurants and a good diner for a 6yo, at this point I would subject neither him, other diners nor my wallet to a dinner at a 3*. Hopefully, that will come later when it will be a more worthwhile experience for all concerned. Both the 15 and 14yo's have recently been to Alinea (the grand tour) and Moto in Chicago with extremely enthusiastic responses. The main purpose for detaile organization is to provide a framework from within which I can identify priorities and work from there. It is good to have the framework, but spontaneity and the ability to respond to changing circumstances is an important component for getting the most out of a vacation. While one can go to Paris without planning and stumble upon fantastic "discoveries" relatively easily, it is just as easy for the relatively uninitiated to stumble upon mediocrity. it is too exciting a culinary city to take that chance IMO. Perhaps someday if and when I know it well, I will be more comfortable with that approach (I can do that in NYC). The discussion re: metro vs taxi vs bus vs walking is particularly interesting and useful. I don't imagine that we will be out particularly late at night with our 6yo in tow although i'm sure the teens would love the Paris nightlife. Our 15yo can easily pass for much older but they will have to abide by our schedule especially since I also to get started reasonably early in the mornings. As of this moment I am leaning towards visiting Aux Lyonnnais on the first night, lunch at L'Astrance on day two with dinner perhaps at Chez Michel. Day three will be Versailles (pending convincing my wife to stay in the city and forgoing the Palais ) with dinner at home. Day 4 perhaps falafel in the Marais with dinner at Pierre Gagnaire (eat-in for the poor unfortunate left-behinds). Day 5, our last full day will be a chocolate extravaganza throughout the day with perhaps a light lunch at Delicabar. Dinner at this point is wide open. Possibilities include Chez Denise, cooking in, Mon Veili Ami, Dominique Bouchet or L'Entredgeu. At this point I am perhaps leaning most heavily toward Chez Denise. Day 6, alas, we head home.
  17. docsconz

    Per Se

    Undoubtedly, a lot of people do. And the greater the reputation of the restaurant or the higher the bill the more likely that is to be the case. ← This is probably starting to get off-topic and if it goes much further probably deserves to be moved into its own topic. Nevertheless, I will say that I do not go to a restaurant like Per Se or ADNY or any other looking for faults. I go looking for and expecting an enjoyable meal. Unfortunately, sometimes faults find me. They are then duly noted and occassionally (depending on the fault) reported on. Certain faults are more likely to efect my perception of my experience more than others depending on the type of restaurant I am in and its cost. I am more likely to accept a service faux pas in a less expensive restaurant or a restaurant with great food. I am more likely to accept food mistakes if they are well handled on the service end. If I am spending $500-1000pp I am not too likely to look kindly on any faults Fortunately for me, my meal at Per Se over a year ago was pretty faultless.
  18. docsconz

    Le Meurice

    I must say I don't know how it tasted, but the photo sure looks appetizing! That is a great restaurant photo.
  19. This is a true dilemma. I appreciate of what you speak and I should take it to heart. This is only my second time to Paris and the first for our kids (actually our 6yo was in the womb the first time) and there is so much to see, do and eat! Obviously we can't do it all and need to make some concessions - but what? This is my American Type A curse! Of course, part of my fun is planning. We do want to see the major monuments (i.e. Tour Eiffel, Arc de Triomfe, Notre Dame, Versailles) as well as brief, focused visits to La Musee D'Orsay, La Musee Picasso and The Louvre. One other Museum I think the kids will enjoy is the Museum of Magic in the Marais. We considered The Catacombs and The Sewer Museum but these would be too much on top of everything else. Mostly though I want to savor the food. This includes restaurants, markets and shops. I do plan on cooking one or two evenings in the apartment. Perhaps my biggest dilemma is what to do about chocolate. I have grand ideas of taking parts of two days to sample a number of different chocolate producers in the 6th and 7th arrondissements. It is difficult to choose amongst them. I am afraid my list may be too much. The above being said the only things that will be truly inflexible with our itinerary will be a few select restaurant reservations such as Gagnaire.
  20. There is no question that expectations play an important role in how a diner perceives a restaurant. The diner certainly brings a lot to bear on the experience in addition to expectations. Even so, there can be relatively objective criteria for being less than fully satisfied with a particular meal or a particular restaurant. When I go to a any restaurant I hope for a transcendant experience. Unfortunately they are rare no matter how many stars a restaurant has so I don't really expect one. Fortunately for me, i don't need this to be satisfied. What I do expect out of a 3 star restaurant is delicious food exhibiting sophistication and artistry in an environment in which I can enjoy it. My biggest beef with ducasse in NYC was the pace they were putting us through for our tasting menus. It was literally one course on top of another. I felt rushed, which really got under my skin in that situation. This may have affected my response to certain courses. The problem with disappointing meals at high end restaurants is that for most people it is indeed too much of a luxury for multiple chances. In the right situation I would return to ADNY because I suspect the food would generally warrant it., but because of my experience I am not in a hurry to do so. I think the real value of reviews such as we see here on eGullet is not any one in its singularity. It is instead the overall compilation and trend of the reviews as well as their contextual niche. Some individual reviews are clearly better than others and therefore carry more weight whether it is due to the accumulated authority of the reviewer or the quality of the review itself.
  21. I think I learned my lesson in Catalunya last year! Robuchon intrigues me in that I could probably limit the meal to just a few courses. Nevertheless our best bet may be the falafel and ice cream. How difficult is it to get taxis upon leaving restaurants?
  22. Felice, Thank you for your input. I don't mind venturing out a little ways from the neighborhood. I just don't feel like going all over Paris that night. Do you have any more info on the Villaret?
  23. Apparently A l'Etoile d'Or at 30 Rue Fontaine in the 9th arrondissement is the only place other than Bernachon to carry their products. Good accounts of the shop are available via No. 60 of The Art of Eating as well as Chocolate and Zucchini and "The Sweetest Woman in Paris" in davidlebovitz.com.
  24. I will be in Paris for five days and nights with my wife and three boys, all of whom are good eaters. Obviously there are innumerable choices for dining. With the help of this Forum I have narrowed our choices down to a select group. Now I have some specific dilemmas that I would love to hear members opinions on. We will be staying in an apartment the 1oth Arrondissemnt near the St. Martin Canal. After our late afternoon arrival from Barcelona, I would prefer to explore the canal and the neighborhood and eat realatively locally. Choices for that evening include Aux Lyonnais, Chez Michel and Chez Denise. Preferences and why, please? One day will be spent around the Musee D'Orsay and the Eiffel Tower. My thoughts for lunch are L'Astrance (reservation pending) or Au Bon Accuiiel. Your thoughts? A day in Versailles. Picnic lunch - suggestions for what? On one evening I hope to be dining at Pierre Gagnaire. What should we do for lunch that day? We will most likely be around the Louvre or Notre Dame. Possibilities include L'Atelier de Joel Robuchon early if I can get an 11:30 reservation, falafel in the Marais at L'As du Falafel followed by ice cream at Berthillon, Ze Kitchen Gallerie or Mon Vieil Ami. This is probably the most difficult decision of all. One day will be spent shopping and chocolating mostly in the 6th and 7th. A light lunch would probably be best here. Thoughts? Two nights still require dinner plans. Possibilities include the remainder of the Aux Lyonnais, Chez Michel and Chez Denise trio as well as L'Entredgeu, Le Comptoir or Dominique Bouchet. Please consider the logistics. Our nearest Metro stop is Goncourt, but Republique is also nearby.
  25. Not everything a given chef creates will excel or hit the mark. Even if it does most times, it might not for various reasons every time. The best restaurants generally create the best food and do it most consistently. I disagree that just because a chef or a restaurant has a particular reputation a disliked dish is the fault of the one having it. That smacks of "The Emperor's New Clothes". When formulating an opinion for myself, I prefer to trust my own palate rather than a chef's stature or training. Certainly, there may be times when I simply don't "get" the dish and that is my problem. I tend to be a fairly adventurous eater and enjoy new things so that is unlikely to be a big problem for me. Nevertheless, I can usually determine when something works or doesn't work. It is important to get a sense of the critic and what the criticism is based on. I am much more likely to take seriously criticism from someone whose opinion I have come to understand. This can be from a long history of reading or discussion or sometimes from an extremely well presented and thought out statement from someone unfamiliar. The context is important. A Frenchman may be more likely to dismiss a criticism of a specific dish or restaurant given by an American than another American would simply because of cultural discrepancies. Great service to a Frenchman may seem rude to an American and vice versa. Depending on the type of restaurant I prefer the more formal french approach myself. The other important thing I look for is a trend. One poor review or bad experience amongst many glowing reports can easily be chalked up to "bad luck" or an "off night". If the reports start becoming more frequent and from people I trust, I start to get concerned. On the other hand, one bad report without a background of significant positives may be sufficient cause for concern by itself. Expensive restaurants are less likely to be suffered for inconsistency. My one experience at Alain Ducasse in NYC although generally excellent was very disappointing. I simply think that my meal was too flawed for the exorbitant price I paid. I don't mind paying, but if it is a lot of money, I feel the meal should live up to it. This one experience certainly doesn't mean that the restaurant was "bad", although it failed to impress me. I give much greater leeway to less expensive places.
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