docsconz

I did not catch that if that was the case, though I wouldn't be surprised. Peru might be another possibility. This is true. He changed the presentation to one on how Alinea is an experience in which food, presentation and service are all vital components. Though the presentation was less personal than the original subject, it was quite excellent and one of the more well received of the program. I would summarize the presentation as one focusing on the value of color in enhancing a diner's response to a meal. In doing so, she presented several techniques used at Arzak to achieve color while either enhancing or not affecting flavor. I'm sorry, but I don't specifically recall what she may have said about color changing.

How does that work? Perhaps the "Best" awards are based only on quality or only on presentation, but not both? good question. Once they were awarded both prizes, I thought for sure that they had won. I guess the answer is that there are other elements to the total scores including timing, organization and such. Even though they might have scored best for the actual food, they must have been behind in the other areas. In addition, the teams that beat them out must have scored close to them for food as well. I was quite surprised to see that Iceland finished 7th--above both Japan and Canada. Are they known for good food? The Icelandic food I've had in Canada (Winnipeg and environs historically have large numbers of Icelandic immigrants) hasn't been anything special. What's the fine dining scene there like, I wonder? ← Iceland shares the same Scandinavian mystique would be my answer.

Denmark won both Best Fish and Best Meat, yet only placed fourth overall. The Japanese had beautiful architectural platters. All I can say not having tasted any of the plates is that the competition looked tough.

I just returned from the Bocuse, whee I accompanied the US Team taking photos for Starchefs.com. It was an experience! The second day of the competition was much more intense than the first as it had a number of the big guns with rowdy fan bases competing. After seeing the work and effort that went into the American effort, I have nothing but respect for the team and the enterprise. Though everyone was disappointed that they didn't finish higher than sixth place, the reality is that it really is a very, very good result. The Scandinavians are habitually on the podium and indeed this year three out of the top four teams were Scandinavian. I think that one of the reasons for this is that until recently in Scandinavia, haute cuisine meant classic French cooking so they have learned to do it well. In contrast, the Spanish team, lead by such heavyweights as Juan Marie Arzak, Paco Roncero and the candidate Angel Palacios who is now the chef at Madrid's highly regarded La Broche, finished well down the pack (20th) despite beautiful, but typically Spanish presentations of their meat and fish dishes. Although Arzak, Thomas Keller, Rene Redzepi and Matthias Dahlgren sat amongst the judges, for the most part the judges are more oriented towards traditional French cooking styles. That clearly hurt the Spaniards and I think the Americans as well to a degree. In addition to the Bocuse, I was able to catch some of the Pastry Coupe du Monde, won by the French. Indeed one of the key members of that winning French team is based in Lyon with a small, but wonderful shop in Les Halles.

I had an amazing dinner at Senzone in Madrid last night. The chef, Paco Morales, worked at Mugaritz and is a disciple of Andoni Luis Aduriz, who happened to be dining there last night as well along with Harold McGee on the last night of Madrid Fusion. The food was beautiful and delicious, very refined and elegant. The restaurant, like Diverxo, is very small, only twenty covers. Morales is truly a rising star. Another restaurant to consider for your Sunday in Madrid is Los Asturianos. Though the room is a hole in the wall, the Asturian food is wonderful and reasonable. They also have an outstanding wine list as the owners are also wine distributors. Though I don't think it will fit with your schedule, another great and original meal was had at Kabuki Wellington. It was a great combination of Spanish and Japanese cuisines, though I wouldn't label it as a "fusion" restaurant. I like the hams of Cinco Jotas. There is a shop just off the Puerta del Sol. If you are going to take a day trip from Madrid for food, may I suggest Meson candido in Segovia for cochinillo or roast suckling pig. Another option just a bit north of Madrid is Mannix for lechazo or roast baby lamb. There is nothing quite like either of these dishes available in the US. Segovia is an interesting destination in its own right. I think the Barcelona recs above are all good as are the SS.

I had the opportunity today to ask Ferran about the absence of the term "technoemotional" in yesterday's discussion. He replied that the term very much remains in vogue to him, but that the discussion was strictly about the science of cooking. The big event today was recognition given to those who Madrid Fusion considers the 10 most influential chefs of the past decade. They included Ferran Adria, Juan Marie Arzak, Heston Blumenthal, Sebastien Bras representing his father Michel, Pierre Gagnaire, Pierre Herme, Thomas Keller, Gualtiero Marchesi, Nobu Matsuhisa, and Charlie Trotter. While it may be argued that some of these chefs' greatest influences occurred before the last ten years and that other deserving chefs should have made this list, there was no doubting the sheer amount of culinary genius together on the stage at the same time. What's more, there were quite a few chefs nearly as notable in the audience applauding them on. This was a tough act to follow, but first David Chang and then Sotohiro Kosugi came on to do small plates. Both chefs and their assistants performed admirably, especially considering that their dishes were consumed live on stage as they were made by top Spanish critics. As a result of Soto's presentation I have found out that Ferran Adria has made a reservation to dine there.

Madrid Fusion has been underway for two days now. it is as busy, hectic and wonderful as ever. The Mexican contingent has shown itself well, but the talk I have heard most talk about so far was Pedro Schiaffino's from Peru, who spoke on using products from the Amazon. He showed wonderful videos and photos as well as cooking demonstration. The biggest event so far though was the discussion today between Andoni Luis Aduriz, Harold McGee, Heston Blumenthal, Ferran Adria and late addition to the panel, Italian physicist and gastronome, Davide Cassi about "Molecular Gastronomy." While there wasn't any major new ground broken, they all agreed that the word "molecular" narrows the focus too much on the contributions of science to cuisine. Science has been useful in the understanding and development of technique, but in the end, they agreed, that it is all still just "cooking." Interestingly, while the term "molecular gastronomy" was rejected as expected, the only substitution fully agreed upon was simply "gastronomy," which Harold McGee suggested already encompasses the science of cooking and dining. Also of interest and a bit of a surprise to me considering how warmly Ferran appeared to accept it last year, there was no mention of the term "technoemotional." I will be writing with more detail and photos as time allows.

Either I'm not reading this correctly, or I'm not reading this correctly. oakapple: This is supposed to be a list of NYT 3 stars that Eater hedges will close (as in shutter, as in go kaput) this year (2009)? All of them? ← You aren't reading this correctly. That is to say, that the original post on Eater lists all the 3* restaurants as above and guesses that some of them will likely shutter, but doesn't guess which ones.

I posted a short eulogy for this restaurant along with an excerpt from an interview I did with Chef Trabocchi at Starchefs onmy blog..

This is big and very sad news. I have no doubt that Fabio Trabocchi will land on his feet. The question is where and when and doing what.

Agreed, Doc. Which is why I wonder how come they're even bothering to have this "round table discussion". The term molecular gastronomy has long been dead, we all know it, so why keep repeating the reasons why it was "killed"? Is it for the benefit of those in the audience who aren't up-to-date on the issue? Wouldn't it be better to discuss something new, considering how rare it is to have these greats together on the same stage? ← It will be interesting to see what they actually do discuss. The thing is, they will be preaching this to the choir. It is the rest of the world that still insists on using the term "Molecular Gastronomy" as has been well documented even here in the eGullet Discussion Forums.

Is Fonda Gaig a product of Carles Gaig? You live a very good life, my friend.

Great job! That was a beautiful island. You have succeeded in re-whetting my desire to travel to Thailand. Unfortunately, I think that it would be some time before I am able to do it and when I do it won't be as complete an experience as yours secondary to time. Thanks for sharing!

With the holidays behind us and the economy still in the doldrums, I don't see much demand for lobsters in the near future if prices do go up. The supply may shrink increasing price pressure, but I just don't think the demand will support significantly higher prices right now. I think that means we won't be seeing (or eating) too much lobster in the near term depending upon what the prices rise to. ← I just remembered that prices were the highest they had ever been just last spring - way over $12 a pound. Something about cooler waters keeping them off shore, the fuel prices and some sort of seasonal closure overlap. Pounds that weren't frozen were the only source of lobster. How far we swing! ← It's funny, those prices made the recent low prices look particularly low. Now these prices will make increases look particularly expensive!

With the holidays behind us and the economy still in the doldrums, I don't see much demand for lobsters in the near future if prices do go up. The supply may shrink increasing price pressure, but I just don't think the demand will support significantly higher prices right now. I think that means we won't be seeing (or eating) too much lobster in the near term depending upon what the prices rise to.

Kitchen Bouquet?

Always possible, but if anyone can do it, Jose can. He has incredible energy and a great staff.

I don't think this is meant to be a discussion of the merits of the term. Instead it is more of a dialectic on why the term doesn't work or apply. They want to put the term to rest. Looking forward to seeing you there!

That's all I would have had room for if I undertook that eating binge! Musta been one helluva great cuppa joe.

All this talk about how great the breakfast was, what did you have?

Don't forget the special focus on Mexican cooking. Last year the focus was on Scandinavia.

Maybe, but my experience at MSB was very underwhelming, much like it sounds your experience at Shang was. I should go back and give it another shot.

FYI, if you didn't know, Jordan is now doing his thing in LA at XIV, Michael Mina's new restaurant.

Yes, one of Fat Guy's dining rules and not bad advice. It may also be more financially prudent, however, it misses the fun of exploration and discovery Besides if every one did that none of these restaurants would ever survive long enough to go to.

Steven, this is a truly fascinating adventure. Thanks for sharing it.