docsconz

A few "people" shots: Jose Andres and Llorenc Petras having fun. Marilyn Tausend and Nancy Harmon Jenkins, two of my very favorite trip leaders. Nancy led my trip to Spain with CIA/WOF back in 2004 while Marilyn co-led my trip to Mexico this past March along with Rick Bayless. Joan Roca and Andoni Aduriz relaxing before a demonstration. Marcos Moran, Enrique Martinez and Dani Garcia doing the same. Carles Gaig being interviewed during the Friday lunch. Rafael Anson, Jose Andres, Ferran Adria and yours truly.

Harlan, your photos of Jordan really capture his intense concentration. Do you know what he was making with the cutting multi-wheel?

Victor, we are not really disagreeing. I said above that if he had Redondo Iglesias jamon it wasn't Iberico, but likely Serrano. As for Embutidos Fermin, I said I can understand how that was taken to mean Jamon Iberico. That is clearly my fault for not being more explicit. Their other Iberico products are currently available here and according to Tienda.com the jamon iberico from Embutidos Fermin are supposed to arrive for delivery this winter with the bellotas coming next winter.

MD gets tipped, hostess/host does not. ← I almost never get tipped Seriously, what is the difference functionally or is there one? If there isn't why does a maitre 'd get tipped and a host/hostess not?

I'll be there from January 14-24 ← I will look forward to your reports as I will be going a short time later.

Two restaurants in Lima that I am planning on are Huaca Pucllana and Mar. I met the owner, chef and pastry chef of Huaca Pucllana at the World of Flavors Conference this past November and had the opportunity to try some of their food. It was delicious. Mar is a relatively new ceviche place in Miraflores by the same owners as Astrid and Gaston. What time of year are you going?

I may not have been clear here. My preferred method is slice-freeze-toast.

ling, i could not have said it better myself. this is how i felt the desserts were as well. ← This is one of the things that keeps the world and eGullet Forums interesting. While I love this restaurant I have been less than thrilled with restaurants beloved by others. Perhaps it would not have made a difference, but I still have to wonder how much of an impact the day's eating might have had on the experience at WD-50. I know that it would have for me. Obviously you are different people with different metabolisms and younger than myself. Nevertheless.... Regardless, I do admire the shared gastronomic stamina of Ling and Henry:smile:

Where do they come from? These are fresh tomatoes? I assume "Campari" is the grower or is it the variety? I'll have to look out for them.

I've frozen them whole and halved. If you like your bagels untoasted, they are not bad if the whole ones are microwaved for about 25-30seconds depending on your microwave. Unfortunately, they will not be nearly as good as when they were fresh, but they are still decent. If toasting them anyway I find it is more convenient to slice them first. That is my preferred way of preparing frozen bagels.

Here is Winebid.com's current selection of bottles from the 1991 vintage. While there are some very good bottles in there, I can't say that there was anything that I felt I absolutely must bid on.

Very nice report, Lenski. Thank you. After meeting Carles Abellan at The World of Flavors Spain and the World Table Conference in November, Comerc24 rose to my short list of restaurants to visit when next in Barcelona. Your report has only reinforced that feeling. Abellan is a very personable man and quite talented as well. I imagine "Dahsi" was a typo for "dashi, but then again maybe it was purposeful "

Actually, not even Fermín - as yet. From their press release last spring: "Fermin USA announced today that they will be the exclusive US importers of a gourmet Iberian ham that won USDA approval last July. The newly formed partnership which includes the “jamón Ibérico’s” Spanish producer, Embutidos Fermin, along with American-based importer/distributor Rogers International and internationally acclaimed Spanish chef Jose Ramon Andres, have already begun determining distribution partners in key markets. The first shipments of Ibérico Lomo, Chorizo and Salchichon will be available by April and should be in full distribution by later this spring. Cured Ibérico legs and shoulders, which take longer to cure, will be available in summer of 2007." ← The Iberico chorizo, salchichon and lomo are all currently available in the US. I have procured and eaten some of the chorizo and slachichon myself - delicious. I don't believe the jamon is available yet though.

Thanks for the fine report, Lenski. I am jealous. My memories of Sant Pau are quite fond. The single most memorable part of the meal for me was the composed cheese course. I believe that Ruscalleda is without peer when it comes to doing this. Would you mind providing translations for some of the Catalan terms and phrases, please? I look forward to your other reports, especially Comerc24.

An interesting discussion could certainly be had on what Franco and his politics meant for Spain as a whole and its constituent parts, however, to continue it is beyond the scope of this discussion. In the context of food and the discussion in this thread, however, it is clear that the Franco years were a bane to artisanal cheese production in Spain as many forms were either extinguished or nearly so. An interesting study would be to examine what kinds of cheeses and their qualities were available prior to the Spanish Civil War and how that compares to what is available today.

Very nice job with the photography throughout. The Momofuku shots may be the most impressive given the hour and all you had been through!

Is this the only dessert you had at WD-50? If so you really missed a chance to sample the work of one of the most talented pastry chefs on the planet, Alex Stupak. I am amazed and in awe of your mutual ability to sample and pack so much away in such a short time, but I wonder how much of an effect "the law of diminishing returns" might have had on your ability to really enjoy whatever it was that you were sampling, especially as each day wore on?

A few photos from the Friday evening Marketplace: The team from Jaleo making superb tapas. Marcos Moran serving "crispy bocadillo of Cabrales" to the cheesemaster Enric Canut. These were full of cheesy goodness - creative comfort food. "Tartare of Tomato with Crayfish and White Garlic" from Francis Paniego. Maricel Presilla of Cucharamama in Hoboken, N.J. serving her "Cucharamama Slab Bacon in Panca Pepper-Brown Sugar Loaf Adobo with Oloroso Sherry." "Lamb Antichucos with Papa Seca Puree and Pickled Yacon" and "Suspira de Umena" from Marilu Madueno and Andrea Massaro Debernardi of Lima, Peru's Huaca Pullana with an overview of a segment of the World Marketplace. Joaquin Felipe with his "Red Tuna Bites." Carles Abellan filling his "kindereggs." Nando Jubany is in the foreground serving Abellan's decadent "McFoie Burgers." These dishes were all wonderful. I had a number of other great dishes, bites and wines, but what is sad is the number of wonderful sounding dishes that I missed either because I was too full or I simply did not get to them. As a World Marketplace rookie, I didn't know enough to study the menu that was handed out on entry into the room. If I had done so I wouldn't have missed Marco Antonio Garcia's "Asado de Cordero Lechal!" Actually, I can't complain. I just wish that I had a bigger stomach in order to sample all of the delights presented.

A beautiful and delicious looking meal. That is a nice relaxing way to start the trip once you settled down from the journey itself. A good lobster tail is a wonderful thing whether it be crustacean or pastry!

A few photos from the late afternoon session: Max McCalman and Enric Canut talking Spanish cheese. Pedro and Marcos Moran from Casa Gerardo in Prendes (Asturias), Spain working with cheese. Oriol Balaguer putting the finishing touches on his "Concept" cheesecake. Yes, that is arugula and it was quite delicious. Joan Roca using smoke in a dish with seafood. Joaquin Felipe chef at Europa Deco in Madrid works with all parts of tuna.

1991 was an uneven vintage around the globe with greatness in some locations and disappointment elsewhere. I have followed the 1991 vintage as I have a son born in 1991. In my experience the best places for the 1991 vintage include Piemonte in Italy, the northern Rhone in France and Ribera del Duero and Rioja in Spain. Depending on your budget I would seek out wines from those areas. Personal favorite producers include Bruno Giacosa and Angelo Gaja from Piemonte, the "Super Cote Roties" from Guigal in the northern Rhone and the wines of Alejandro Fernandez (Pesquera) the Ribera del Duero. If you prefer whites, it was also a good year in Burgundy and the northern Rhone. I would suggest staying away from 1991 Bordeaux or Port if you are looking for a special bottle.

If it is true that all fish to be served raw or nearly raw in the US must be frozen first then I don't think that it really is that big of a deal for most fish at least as far as the ultimate quality is concerned although it helps if it has been blast frozen. Unfortunately this likely not the case for all fish. One big difference between a lot of the fish served in restaurants in the US vs finer restaurants in Spain is that the distribution of fresh seafood in the US is rarely directly from the fisherman. In most situations it is received from distributors and comes from boats that freeze the fish directly on board. In Spain many of the finest seafood restaurants serve their fish from the local daily catch. I must say that I have never had sardines as good as I have had them in Spain. Another problem for the Spanish restaurants is the additional cost for them of having the fish be frozen in such a way that quality is minimally effected. What will happen to a restaurant like Rafa's in Roses?

Actually shrimp and other crustaceans are part of their lifecycle as can be seen in the link I provided above. The shrimp are ingested by larger fish which are in turn ingested by other fish. Whether that part of the lifecycle is problematic to humans is another question. I recall that the raw shrimp that we had was not a typical species, but a very small one cut up in a tartare like preparation. Mind you, I am not saying that that was indeed the source, but the possibility is intriguing. Out of curiosity is there any sense of this being a significant problem in Spain. The potential is certainly large, but what is the reality?

I remember that article. I am sure that you are correct, but I was surprised when wading through the fda website all I could find were recommendations and not regulations. Of course, I did not go through the site with a fine tooth comb.

This is very interesting and unusual that a European country actually has gone beyond American regulations. The FDA recommends that fish and shellfish not be eaten raw unless they have been previously frozen, but I can't find anything on their or a related website indicating that this is a requirement. If this takes hold in Spain, I'm sure that it will only be a matter of time for it to take place in the US. Here is a little more information on Anisakiasis. This gives me pause to wonder if it wasn't actually this that I and a number of other fellow diners/travelers suffered from after lunch at a Spanish restaurant at which part of the meal consisted of a dish prepared with raw shrimp. It was a possibility that I previously hadn't considered. The symptoms were consistent with what is described in the link I provided above.