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docsconz

eGullet Society staff emeritus
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Everything posted by docsconz

  1. woofy, I must say that you seem to have the worst luck at these stores. Does someone there not like you? Fortunately for me, i have not shared your misfortune at either place, although I do not shop much at D&D simply because I believe that they are vastly overpriced. I have shopped at Citarella with excellent results though they aren't exactly inexpensive either.
  2. From the Metroland Review: Sort of addresses my point above.
  3. Given the experiences i have had with Joe Ziomek at Alinea, I expect the service and the wine to be superb. If the food can live up to that, they should do well indeed.
  4. I haven't previously heard of it, though it is a funny name for a tapas restaurant.
  5. That has to be one of the best lines I have read or heard in some time! I know exactly what you mean.
  6. We actually have some alpaca farms up where I live. They are adorable creatures as are guinea pigs. But then again I have also petted calves, baby pigs, lambs and think chickens are beautiful birds. That hasn't stopped me from eating them! Thanks for your insights. I knew about the alpaca, cuy (guinea pig) and ceviche as general areas, but the pink trout was previously unknown to me. I will certainly have to keep a lookout for that. I have some idea now, much thanks to you and a few others, at what to expect and look for in Lima, Cuzco and Macchu Picchu, but am still unsure of Lake Titicaca.
  7. Thank you, Rogelio. Not only were they cooking, they were afforded the true respect that they deserved. One thing that was apparent at this conference is that their is no real dichotomy between the traditional and the vanguard in the cooking of contemprorary Spain. Not only are they not mutually exclusive, they actually reinforce and support each other. Maybe it is because the vanguardists support the traditions already existant while creating new ones. Of course that is not to say that all cocineros in Spain are one huge happy family exuding respect and good will towards each other. As with any area in life there are personal rivalries and enmities, though none were apparent here. Then again maybe those cocineros didn't come if they were invited.
  8. Hi Arturo, thanks for your attention. I don't recall all the details of her talk, but one thing that does stand out in my memory was that she thinks saffron should be infused in liquid for longer periods of time than most people do so as to get the full flavor. I do not recall her talking about infusing into oil, though I would be surprised if she hasn't been doing that or at least looking into it. She is considered, at least by many of those at the conference, as perhaps the world's foremost expert on the culinary uses of saffron.
  9. I don't think that would get you anywhere as July 8th is a Sunday. ← They are open on Sundays.
  10. Interesting observation. Personally I think that the gloves are no substitute for good hygeine. Even with the gloves, good hygeine is required and may not be present. Funny thing, I ate at a sushi restaurant last night. some of the sushi preparers had gloves on while others didn't. The cheap gloves used in most food prep areas would drive me crazy. I don't even like wearing high quality surgical gloves for too long and they are relatively comfortable.
  11. Thanks for the advice. The restaurants look interesting. While it is fun stumbling into a culinary gem on one's own, the risks of missing out when someplace for only a few days are great. That is why advice like yours is particularly appreciated, especially in areas less visited by the members here.
  12. I have a few additional photos to add from Day One. Greg Drescher, creator of the World of Flavors International Conference and Festival welcoming all the participants. Mari Carmen Velez of La Sirena in Petrer-Alicante, spain demonstrating the making of an allioli. Conference Chairman Jose Andres pouring olive oil for the making of a "pil-pil" by Ruben Garcia Maria Jose San Roman of Restaurante Monastrell in Alicante, Spain talking about how to use saffron. Video image of workers picking the saffron crocus in Spain shown during Maria Jose San Roman's presentation. Two Spanish chefs who wanted to be at the conference but were unable to attend, Juan Marie Arzak of Restaurant Arzakand Pedro Subijana of Akelare, both in San Sebastien, Spain conveying their regrets and best wishes via video. Dani Garcia of Calima in Marbella, Spain, handing out samples of his "popcorn" at the World Marketplace. Carles Gaig ® of Can Gaig in Barcelona and assistant serving his "Juicy Seafood Rice" Norman Van Aken of Norman's in Florida serving his Lamb "Espadas" Pedro Barba Gil slicing Jamon Serrano Spanish wine importer, Jorge Ordonez selecting wine to pour. Rafael Vidal of Levante in Benissano', Spain making a paella for the evening's festivities. Miguel Palomo, chef-owner of a small bar-restaurant in San Lucar la Mayor in Sevilla, Spain and assistant frying fresh anchovies. Oriol Balaguer from Barcelona standing in behind his desserts. More photos will follow additional installments.
  13. Pamela, you also touched on the influence of Jacques Maximin on Ferran Adria and others including ultimately yourself. Funny, but prior to Adria's talk I was not even aware of Maximin let alone his influence. That just points out my own ignorance and inexperience and I consider myself someone who is into history! What struck me at the conference from listening to Ferran Adria both in the talk/demo written about above and his small demo, is how into culinary history he is. Like any good historian, he does not simply no dates and who did what. He understands very well the relationships and complex interweaving of history, in this case culinary history. To me this emphasizes that he is not a person just doing things "willy-nilly" like "a mad scientist" as he has so often been described. Adria is very much aware of what he is doing and why. From what I can see there is nothing "mad" about him at all.
  14. Hi Pamela, I am glad that you have enjoyed this so far. While something called gluconodeltalactone does indeed sound intimidating, I wouldn't be too put off by it or other agents such as Xanthum gum, Calcium Chloride, methylcellulose, etc. These are scientific names for elements found in many "natural" foods that are eaten every day. They are not "designed" by chemists as are certain pharmaceutical agents. The elements are extracted and applied for specific purposes. Most of us would have no trouble adding specific elements for taste even if we don't know the scientific names of the elements. This is really no different, except that the end result is not specifically taste, though equally as important to the perception and reception of a dish. Your comments on Italy are fascinating. I have had the pleasure of dining at Bottura's restaurant when in Modena back in 2003. He had literally just returned from a World of Flavors Conference that focused on the Mediterranean. Though Bottura spent time working at El Bulli before he opened his restaurant, I remember the food there at the time to be creative but not overtly "scientific." He used local ingredients in new ways and did riffs on traditional dishes. I did enjoy that meal very much and would love to return to see how he has evoled in his cooking. As for Davide Scabin, while I have not yet visited his restaurant, Combal.0 in Torino, it is very high on my list of restaurants that I would love to get to. I had the pleasure of meeting him and spending a little time with him back in September in NYC. He is an extremely thoughtful, intelligent and fun human being. I can only imagine his food being the same. An interesting sidenote since you brought up the subject of Italy, is that many of the Spaniards are very much aware of having been in the shadow of Italy, especially as regards attitudes towards agricultural products like olive oil, wine, vinegar, seafood, rice, etc. and even traditional dishes such as canneloni and even the tortilla Espanola, a version of which I ate regularly growing up with a Campanian mother. While top quality Spanish ingredients are indeed second to none, I found this attitude a bit defensive and probably the result of returning to the game late and having to play "catch-up."
  15. Thanks Mark. more is on the way. To answer your question, next year's conference will be Nov. 1-3 on "The Rise of Asia." It should be outstanding. Unfortunately for me, I will be unable to attend.
  16. That's really high on my list - getting dressed up in my best - heels and all - and schlepping around Manhattan at night in the subway . I don't care where a guy has made reservations - that's a good way to piss off his wife or SO on her birthday. I think an essential part of the dinner experience is a nice trip to and from the restaurant. Robyn ← That's what taxi cabs are for. In the grand scheme of the cost of dinner, what the hey. Besides one does want the complete NYC experience. ← Agreed . That's one reason why - on a short trip - I'd try to pick a hotel reasonably close to where I was having dinners - assuming my dinners were in one area of town. No reason to stay in Soho if all my dinners were mid-town or north of mid-town (although cabs aren't hugely expensive - they can run $20+ each way from Soho to the upper west side where JG is). Robyn ← But he may save that and possibly more on the room rate. If it were the reverse, I would be less inclined to recommend it.
  17. That's really high on my list - getting dressed up in my best - heels and all - and schlepping around Manhattan at night in the subway . I don't care where a guy has made reservations - that's a good way to piss off his wife or SO on her birthday. I think an essential part of the dinner experience is a nice trip to and from the restaurant. Robyn ← That's what taxi cabs are for. In the grand scheme of the cost of dinner, what the hey. Besides one does want the complete NYC experience. ← Agreed . That's one reason why - on a short trip - I'd try to pick a hotel reasonably close to where I was having dinners - assuming my dinners were in one area of town. No reason to stay in Soho if all my dinners were mid-town or north of mid-town (although cabs aren't hugely expensive - they can run $20+ each way from Soho to the upper west side where JG is). Robyn ← But he may save that and possibly more on the room rate.
  18. That's really high on my list - getting dressed up in my best - heels and all - and schlepping around Manhattan at night in the subway . I don't care where a guy has made reservations - that's a good way to piss off his wife or SO on her birthday. I think an essential part of the dinner experience is a nice trip to and from the restaurant. Robyn ← That's what taxi cabs are for. In the grand scheme of the cost of dinner, what the hey. Besides one does want the complete NYC experience.
  19. I always make reservations if I am hoping to dine at specific restaurants. I find that it is better to be prepared and flexible than unprepared and flexible.
  20. I think unless your name happens to be "Daniel" and have a bottomless stomach you are wise to mix in some lower key options. A hotel with a good location in Soho that I have stayed at and enjoyed is 60 Thompson. It is right down the street from Kee's Chocolate's, a small artisanal chocolatier that is well worth visiting. Indeed I would suggest spending some time enjoying some of the more artisanal products available in NYC like chocolates, bread, the Union Square Market, etc. On another note, we are at odds in terms of the relative strengths of the dollar vs the euro as I am hoping to be in Spain around the time you will be in NY. Obviously my interest is in a strong dollar. Maybe it will meet in the middle so that it is reasonable for all of us.
  21. One should always be skeptical of any source whether it be a member of the eGullet Society or "on tv" or even a newspaper. (Actually, tv is one of the last places I would go for "the truth.") It would help that if the first person posting a "rumor" either confirmed it prior to posting or clearly labeled it a as a rumor. In your defense you did say "I heard," but unfortunately someone else appeared to back it up. I am sorry that I took your rumor at face value rather than questioning it more closely. The nice thing about the Egullet Forums though is that Stelio was able to come on and personally refute it. The bottom line is that I am glad that Les Chevres is still going strong. I found it in my experience to be one of he most unique and delicious restaurants in Montreal.
  22. Thanks for reading and commenting, Judith. I agree that the willingness to share techniques and concepts is a noble one. It is also necessary for this movement to grow and to be something more than a mere curiosity. Adria and others like Alex Talbott and Aki Kamozawa of Ideas in Food freely share their ideas and engage in discussion with all interested parties. This is truly wonderful and something that we all benefit from. One thing that their meticulous documentation accomplishes is that it clearly leaves an account of what they have done and when, so while they are sharing their ideas it becomes more difficult for someone else to claim them as their own. Proper attribution is important in this context and allows for the free flow of these ideas. Adria is happy if anyone else feels interested enough to use the techniques and concepts that he and his team have introduced so long as those techniques and concepts arre not claimed as having originated elsewhere. The unique dishes produced with the help of those techniques and concepts clearly belong to the creativity of the one who made them and not to the originator of the techniques and concepts. I believe that this is a critical point for Adria. Technique and concept are important, but the most important element is how they are employed and what the final product is.
  23. Thanks for the response. a Pachamanca would be a good idea. I will have to see if I can have one arranged for us. The salt is also something I will have to look out for.
  24. Thanks for the interesting report, Rogelio. How was Blumenthal the best example of honesty?
  25. I had the opportunity to dine at both restaurants recently. My impressions were similar to yours in some respects and different in others. Red Iguana: Very good Mexican food and certainly one of the better Mexcian restaurants that I have been to in the US. I applaud their wide variety of moles. They were all tasty, though not as complex as some I have had. The cochinita pibil was very tasty, as were enchiladas and tamales which were on special. The restaurant has a good low key atmosphere. When we arrived for lunch around 1PM on a Saturday we were able to get a table right away and in fact had a choice of tables. It wasn't too long after that the place filled and a line formed out the door. Metropolitan: A Modern, well-appointed space. I had requested a well-lit table when I made my reservation via OpenTable and indeed we received the perfect table for food photography in a restaurant. A corner table, it had its own overhead light and was well-lit without being garish. The only problem though is that I forgot my camera back at the condo in Park City! It was unfortunate too because the food was very well-presented and attractive. Our amuse consisted of apple-smoked bacon, chestnut and a few other ingredients. It was tasty, but I found the texture a little too one dimensionally chewy. This was the low point of the meal and it wasn't all that low. We did not have the tasting menu as we were tired and not too hungry to begin with. We shared appetizers including the crab cake that was accompanied by an allioli. I found it neither oversalted nor accompanied by an overly assertive salad; Mushrooms Metropolitan, a variety of wild-type mushrooms in a cream sauce - presented in a ramekin (excellent); salmon tartar with brioche and creme fraiche (very tasty); and the creamy roasted pistachio soup (my favorite) redolent of roasted pistachio. This was the most unique dish of the appetizers. I followed with the seared foie gras that was served with pumpkin and "fall spices" - a very tasty interpretation that was a new combination for me. It worked quite well. My wife had the "Napoleon" salad layered with slices of beets and turnips. I did not try it, though she seemed to enjoy it. Main courses consisted of my sisters bison tenderloin - beautifully prepared and served with a light red glaze - delicious; my wife's diver scallops served over greens and pureed squash; and my duck cooked "sous vide" with diced sauteed celeriac and morels. I enjoyed my duck, one meat I had never previously had cooked sous vide. As I thought it would, the process worked very well leaving an evenly cooked and juicy meat that was finished with nicely rendered skin. We accompanied our meal with a lovely Torii Mor 2004 pinot noir from the Willamette Valley for $64. I found the wine list to be reasonably varied and fairly priced. It included some serious Bordeaux as well as Turley Zins and Petite Syrahs and a 2002 Coullee de la Serrant from Nicolas Joly. Considering that we were in SLC, Utah I was impressed with the list. We were too full for dessert, but were given lovely little cream puffs. As previously mentioned by other posters, everyone was extremely friendly. The service was superb. I found the restaurant to be a welcome oasis in Salt Lake City. The decor is modern and comfortable, the service warm and professional and the food, creative, well-executed and nicely presented. The former Executive Chef recently left to become the Chef at STK in NYC. His replacement came from within the restaurant. In an unusual twist the restaurant has promoted three, including eGullet Society member Jed Banta, to Executive Chef. It remains to be seen how well this arrangement will work over time, but if my dinner is any indication they have a bright future.
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