Florida Jim

Rob, Not too long ago, Fat Guy posted about having Burgundy with sushi: http://forums.egullet.org/index.php?showto...=0entry624599 After reading that article, I tried it, too. It sounds odd but, with some sushi, it works very well, indeed. Best, Jim

Looks like a pint (or two . . .) to me, mate. Best, Jim

With pulled pork (Cuban style), black beans and rice, and, fried plantains: 2000 Hudelot-Noellat, Bourgogne: Translucent garnet, brilliant/ Expansive black fruit and earth scents with hints of red fruit and spice/ Light body but viscous, fresh and somewhat broad black fruit (mostly black cherry) with some red fruit, earth and spice accents on the palate; intense, crisp, moderate concentration, adequate structure, good balance/ Long, clean, ever so slightly drying finish. In the company of the food, the rather crisp nature of the wine morphed to a supple roundness that was very attractive (and a good pairing). This is the black fruit answer to the 2000 Lafarge, Bourgogne, which was a delightful red fruit example of Bourgogne. Quality stuff. Drink now or cellar short term. Imported by Pelco, Inc. and sold for . . . wait for it . . . $9.99 in my market (full retail). Best, Jim

With lightly breaded chicken breasts stuffed with gorgonzola: 2003 Bregeon, Muscadet Sevre et Maine: The ’03 Muscadets I have tasted do not have the typical mouth-cleansing (or puckering) acidity profile I am used to; these are rather more fruit driven and somewhat softer. More in the style of an unoaked chardonnay from a cool climate. This bottle shows lovely, fresh aromatics; a somewhat rich, fruit forward palate with excellent structure, integration, balance and intensity; and a medium length, very clean finish. Thoroughly delightful both by itself and with the food (especially in this style). Imported by Kermit Lynch. With St. Andre cheese and crackers: 2003 Hippolyte Reverdy, Sancerre: Blousy, ripe, unstructured sauvignon with a half life measured in minutes. Good today; I have little hope for tomorrow. Fine with the cheese. Imported by Kermit Lynch. With grilled duck breast, grilled polenta and a wine-cherry-salsa reduction: 1998 Colin-Deleger, Chassagne-Montrachet VV (rouge): Smelled and tasted delicious with chocolate, berry and spice smells and flavors for the first hour (Imported by Kermit Lynch). Thereafter, it completely fell apart; becoming volatile (tending toward vinegar), sour, disjointed, tannic and unappealing to the point that I threw it out and opened . . . 1999 Drouhin, Vosne-Romanee: Much better with a solid if slightly closed nose of black fruit and spice; medium body, flavors that follow the nose and add some earth tones, good intensity and balance; medium length finish. Needs a few years but was much better with the meal. Imported by Dreyfus Ashby. Best, Jim

Tana, I mentioned this once before, but you may have missed it. The prices vary (more than I would think) from place to place and I buy from all over. In lieu of prices I started posting the importer, which could at least help one find the wines so that you could see what they sell for locally. This time I was lazy; 'sorry. The price deal got a little out of hand when I got a couple of e-mails that . . . well, let's just say they called my credibility into question. From that point on I decided that I preferred to be a source of information not aggravation. No more price posting for me. I'd also point out that many of these wines were bought on release and are not the current releases. Hence, prices would be dated, at best. Take care, Jim

With Caesar salad and a ricotta, lentil and blue cheese tart: 1996 Baumard, Savennieres: Honey and quince on the nose with elements of flowers, citrus and mineral, good complexity; marrowy on the palate with excellent acidity, focused and delineated flavors that follow the nose, moderate depth, complex and well-balanced; very long finish. Textbook Savennieres. This is the regular bottling and, although delicious with this dish now (especially the salad), it has years and years of cellar life left. Excellent wine. With assorted cheeses: 1999 Earl Alain Michaud, Brouilly Cuvee Non-Filtre: Pungent black cherry, hard candy and spice aromas; medium body with strong flavors that follow the nose, evident structure, intense and balanced; medium finish. Still somewhat closed and not at the same level as a recent 2000 Cuvee Prestige from the same house and cru, but this was firm, masculine wine that worked well with the dish. With tuna sandwiches: NV Alianca, Vinho Verde: Clean and crisp but not over-dry; smells of apple, rain water and light spice; lightweight, with flavors that echo the nose with crackling acidity; very clean, fruit driven finish. All of this is in a graceful, slender package that has 9% alcohol and lots of freshness. Good with the dish. With chicken nachos with peach salsa: 2002 Baudry, Chinon Les Granges: Exuberant cabernet franc! Sappy, plush, earthy and juicy; lots of cherry and berry smells and tastes with some pit fruit accents and a touch of smoke, soft tannins, ripe fruit, concentrated and balanced. Will last but is delightfully fresh now. With chicken Caesar salad and olive oil/salt bread: 2003 Pascal Jolivet, Sancerre: Rounder, more alcoholic and broader than Jolivet’s usual efforts, nonetheless, it is clearly Sancerrois in flavor, has good structure and is pretty well balanced. Not for long term aging yet it paired well with the salad. With homemade pasta with onions, garlic, basil and black olives: 1999 Texier, Cotes du Rhone Brezeme: Light vinous scents on the nose; acidic and lean on the palate, full of particulate matter, solid flavors (but also a rather odd olive juice note) but little complexity, medium length. Diane says it tastes like an alcoholic beverage but not wine. I still liked it but I would never expect anyone else to. and, 1999 Gilles Robin, Crozes-Hermitage Cuvee Alberic Bouvet: More potent and alluring on the nose; seamless, satin texture, deep flavors with complexity, integration and excellent balance; good length. Twice the wine of the Brezeme, maybe more. Diane loves it, I love it and I can’t imagine anyone not enjoying it, especially with the dish. Interesting comparison. With pecan crackers and Stilton: 1992 Fieldstone Port, Staten Family Res.: Dried fruit, chocolate, honeycomb and fruit-cake spice nose, appealing and integrated; the flavors echo the nose with a bright, almost fresh fruit element as accent, good intensity, mouth-filling and moderately complex, nicely balanced; medium length. Sweet but not cloying (especially with the cheese), well resolved and although not as complete as Porto, a genuinely delicious wine with the dish. Can keep. With salad Nicoise: 1998 Belle Pente, Pinot Noir Wahle Vnyd. Res.: Muted nose of earth, very light red fruit and wax; somewhat better on the palate with fruit sweet raspberry and plum, some earth tones and spice accents, structured, good balance; medium finish. Sort of dull on the palate; no lack of acid but either this is closed down tight or it simply hasn’t got the stuffing. Fair with the dish. With turkey, bacon sandwiches: 2001 F. Magnien, Fixin: Bright and sappy black raspberry on both the nose and palate with some red fruit and mineral tones, slightly hard edged but the middle weight structure gives it a charm that keeps it from being austere, decent length. None of the sauvage character I associate with the appellation; a fruit driven, beguiling wine and perfect for the lunch. Thanks Bill. Best, Jim

Much obliged. Best, Jim

Pierre, It would be a surprise to me of Biblical proportions if this wine did not cellar very well for a minimum of ten years and likely more. Perhaps, what seemed to be "fading" was just the wine closing down. Or maybe that bottle had been cooked. But I've been wrong before . . . Best, Jim

Tom, Speaking of fine chenin have you (or anyone) seen the 2002's Baumard, Savennieres for sale anywhere? I have been looking for the regular, the Clos Papillon and Trie Speciale and have seen none of them. And all wine searcher is showing are the Coteaux du Layons. Best, Jim

With sautéed scallops in vegetable Thai curry over bean thread noodles: 2002 Huet, Vouvray Demi-Sec Le Mont: The flavors in the wine enhanced the scallops and the slight sweetness matched the heat of the curry. This wine is one of power and finesse, has a solid backbone of minerality and acid, and defines the term breed. Diane’s comment, “the perfect choice.” There is some tropical nuance in the nose but it is mostly chamomile, tea and fresh, ripe, white fruit; viscous on the palate with flavors that follow the nose with depth, focus and complexity; perfectly balanced and extremely persistent. The RS is minimal and is not in the least cloying; rather it acts to bolster the freshness of the wine. I had heard that Le Mont demi’s can drink early on in their lives, and this certainly gives credence to that comment. Wonderful wine. Best, Jim

With sautéed wild salmon and green lentils: 1999 Siduri, Pinot Noir Muirfield Vnyd.: Smells and tastes like good Oregon pinot but the alcohol is so high that it candies the palate somewhat; probably better drunk sooner rather than later. Fair with the dish. With Stilton and crackers: 1987 Vincent Arroyo, Cabernet Sauvignon: At last. On release the fruit was so forward it all but covered the grainy tannins. Thereafter, the fruit receded and it became so tannic as to be undrinkable. Seventeen years later, much of the tannin as precipitated out (decanting required), the wine still has plenty of sweet fruit, and, the development of bottle bouquet and those tertiary flavors that come with aging is evident. I had no hope for this wine and opened this next to last bottle on a whim; what a surprise. I will save the last bottle for a couple years – maybe its 20th birthday would be the right time. Excellent with the cheese. Who’d a thunk? With spinach and mushroom pizza: 2000 Zenato, Valpolicella Ripassa: Fruit, fruit and more fruit on both the nose and palate, a whisper of sur maturite; balanced and juicy in the mouth with good persistence. Nothing serious here but lots of fun to drink and the bottle was gone before we knew it. Must get more. Imported by Winebow. With homemade carrot soup and olive bread, grilled cheese: 2000 Earl Alain Michaud, Brouilly Cuvee Prestige VV: Translucent black/red; slightly gamy nose with deep black fruit, mineral, fresh air, light spice tones with hints of red fruit; satin texture, disarming complexity, slightly salty mineral accents on an almost brooding black fruit palate, concentrated, structured and intense but the overall impression is of harmony; excellent length. Simply the best example of high-quality gamay, ready to drink, I have tasted. The mouth-feel is memorable, the complexity extraordinary and the overall impression of the wine - incomparable. Has the structure, balance and concentration to continue to develop but the texture is so sublime now; no one could be faulted for opening it today. Perfect with the food. Amazing juice for $19, delivered. Imported by Becky Wasserman. Best, Jim

I wish. We are not that technologically advanced here; no digital camera, only dial-up, etc. Although, if that is the price we pay to be in a rural area, it is small enough. Best, Jim

DC, Please, forgive me if I repeat myself . . . Diane is the chef and has the best natural palate of anyone I have met. I do know several folks that are highly trained that can compete, but no one exceeds her abilities. She also does not eat red meat (and very little poultry) so her creativity is even more essential (and encouraged). We often consult on dishes and wine pairings and that is where my creativity (such as it is) lies. Together, we have come up with some very fine pairings but, even in the absence of the wines, the food would still steal the show. So I really do understand the wondering eyes . . . Best, Jim

Glenn, Were I you, I would look for these kinds of things in that price range: Vinho Verde - these are usually non-vintage, 8-9% crisp white quaffers and should be less than $10/bottle. They are for immediate consumption. 2003 Beaujolais - although you need to be selective here, some of the bottlings that are in the stores now show that the year will be forward and drinkable early. Look for Brun, Coudert, Desvignes, Diochon and others that are imported by Louis/Dressner. I have also heard some good things about Debeouf's cru wines but have yet to try them. 2002 Chablis - a fine year and even the village wines seem to be of good character. Brocard is usually everywhere but Boudin, Michel, Tribut, Droin, Drouhin and other quality producers are getting good distribution, too. QbA and kabinett level Germam rieslings from any of the past 5 vintages. Look for Prum, Donnhoff, Grunhaus, etc.. They should be relatively inexpensive, last mid term and accompany a large variety of cuisine. Gilles-Robin, Crozes-Hermitage in any recent vintage. Well made syrahs that are not overoaked, are usually available in NJ and should be reasonably priced. The Soave's of Pieropan, Gini and Anselmi; all good producers with a strong line-up in the past several vintages. Many price points available. Lots of other possibilities and I'm sure others will have good suggestions. Best, Jim

Light rain all morning . . . A lunch of cauliflower soup with truffle oil and a piece of olive bread toast with melted cheese (Leyden with cumin seeds): 2000 Pieropan, Soave La Rocca: Golden, big boned, showing its wood in a toasted-spice-kind-of-way (but not overwhelmingly so) with good depth of flavor, almost peppery acidic structure, some complexity and more body then I am used to in garganega; medium length and a more complex finish (beautifully contrasted by the cumin seed). Maybe a little more wood than I like but not so that I lose the flavor or acidity of the wine. Went very well with the soup and next to spectacular with the cheese toast. Heavy rain in the afternoon . . . A dinner of chanterelle stuffed ravioli with a shallot, wild mushroom cream sauce: 1999 Drouhin, Volnay Clos-des-Chenes: Too young but, after decanting, rock solid Volnay with focused cherry, mineral and hints of other red fruits; structured on the palate but good concentration and intensity allude to a fine future, excellent depth of flavors that echo the nose, after airing the whole palate blends but does not distort; long, structured finish. Lovely with the dish; as though they were made for each other; symbiotic. A very strong wine with lots of potential and just the beginnings of nuance. I look forward to many more . . . Fog tonight . . . sweet dreams. Best, Jim

2002 Byron, Pinot Noir Santa Maria Valley: No obvious oak, almost jammy fruit but not over-the-top, slight complexity and no character. Not unpleasant, could come from anywhere; ready now or will cellar short term. 1991 Mondavi, Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve: Bell pepper and syrup accents on the cassis nose; nice texture, slight complexity, good balance, fair structure and the flavors follow the nose; medium finish. There’s nothing wrong with this wine but waiting 13 years for what’s here seems a waste of time. 1999 Nigl, Gruner Veltliner Alte Reben: Pretty closed on the nose with some oleander, pineapple, black pepper and snap pea scents; on the palate a very slight spritz with sappy flavors that follow the nose, excellent delineation, fresh, juicy and bright with good concentration, some complexity and superb intensity; nothing out of balance; long, crisp finish. On the way to being great; delicious even now. 1999 Didier Dagueneau, Pouilly-Fume Buisson Renard: Evidencing exceptional concentration on both the nose and palate, this has lost a bit of its brightness, now its rounder and softer than either the bottling or appellation suggest. Deep flavors, approachable and less firm make for a wine that should be drunk soon. 1997 Ostertag, Riesling Muenchberg: I was expecting power and intensity from this wine and got pieces of it, that is, although the flavors were like laser-beams, they seemed to go off in all different directions at varying rates of speed. A disjointed showing and one that I think indicates that further cellaring is required. 2000 Thomas, Sancerre La Crele: Chalk is the most noticeable element on both the nose and palate along with reticent white fruit, some lime and a touch of mineral. The attack is intense but the middle and finish trail off. But a terrific wine with fresh goat cheese. 2003 Naia, Verdejo: Crisp, clean, spicy and even carried some complexity as it warmed; a delightful wine that was interesting and refreshing. I need to go buy some of this. 2002 Dom. Bouchard et Fils, Savigny-les-Beaune: Great fruit concentration, powerful structure, without question sourced in the Cote de Beaune and one hell of a finish. Young, to be sure, but immense potential and, after a short decant, good now. A terrific Burgundy, much to my surprise. 1997 Le Regose, Cabernet Sauvignon: No cabernet lover I, but this was textbook stuff with a slight touch of complexity and nothing out of place. Not what I would choose with dinner but nothing I would turn down. 1997 Jaboulet, Hermitage La Chapelle (mag.): Decanted off some sediment for 8 hours prior to service; starting to show signs of its breed with exceptional complexity and concentration, sauvage elements on the nose and palate; intense black fruit and earth tones; the palate suggests even greater power than is showing at present and there is an unrefined quality to the flavors that diminishes any thought of this being smooth or slick; almost hidden structure; satin texture and great balance. Decades to go and develop but, finally, showing some of the class I expect from this bottling. Best, Jim

With red lentil puree with olive bread toasts: 1998 Josmeyer, Pinot Auxerros: No acid; other than that, a pleasant innocuous wine. With baby greens, arugala and chick peas: 2002 Anselmi, Capitel Foscarino: Great presence on the nose and palate with depth and focus. Nicely balanced and bright in the mouth. Much better than the Auxerros and beautifully paired with the salad. With chicken with roasted tomatoes, green olives and couscous: 1999 Gaja, Sitorey: New age barbera that has no appeal to me. Not that it wasn’t pure and clean but its aromatic and palate profile confirms my decision to avoid barbera. With assorted cheeses: 1998 Dom. Douhin, Pinot Noir: Organically flawed in some manner; not corked but close enough to be of no value. and. 1998 Belle Pente, Murto Vnyd., Pinot Noir: Strong, clear reticent fruit scents; complex and interesting on the palate with good concentration and intensity, slightly closed, balanced; medium length finish. Quite good but still a few years away . . . Best, Jim

Decided I like reading it better than writing it. Besides, I couldn't find anything to rhyme with cat pee. Best, Jim

With chicken nachos: 1998 Oliver Laflaive, Saint-Aubin 1er Cru, En Remilly: Pleasantly aromatic and nicely layered; the same on the palate, round and broad but lacking in brightness; smooth, medium length finish. No wood showing and quite open; coupled with the slight lack of acid, I’d say this is for drinking now. and, 1997 Duclaux, Cote Rotie: Nothing earth-shattering here, just an honest, bacon scented syrah that is well balanced, delicious and probably needs another 4-5 years to show its best. Delivered more than I anticipated. With assorted cheeses, olives and breads: 2003 Tue-Boeuf, Gamay Touraine: Closed on day one and a little smoky-stemmy; a touch reduced. Wonderful on day two with beautiful cherry scents, no reductive elements, deep flavors, round and ripe, bigger in the mouth than expected; nice persistence. A joy to drink but needs some cellar time or, if one insists on drinking it now, some decanter time. With a salad of mixed baby greens with chopped tomato, chicken, feta cheese and a light vinaigrette: 2003 Pascal Jolivet, Sancerre: Lime, grapefruit, chalk and peach on the nose (not herbaceous and no cat pee), open and expressive; fairly open on the palate with good viscosity, flavors that follow the nose and add a touch of saline minerality, nice balance and good cut; medium length finish. Perhaps, a little less acid than Jolivet usually does but distinctly Sancerre and off-set by a lovely ripe, roundness that is very charming. For a guy who doesn’t drink much (or care much) for sauvignon, this is nice. Good with the dish. BTW, the label may say 12.5% alcohol but I would be surprised if that were true; tasted much more alcoholic. And then, a grand affair: With Cheddar Pecan Crisps and Shredded Chicken, Avocado, Cucumber and Cilantro wraps: 2002 Mittelbach, Gruner Veltliner Durnsteiner Bergdistel: A varietally correct and impeccable GruVee that complimented the food, lingered on the palate and was delicious by itself. Very nice stuff and my first experience with this producer. and, 2001 Tiefenbrunner, Muller-Thurgau Feldmarschall: This probably matched the food better but did nothing for me; an innocuous vinous quality suffused the nose and palate but seemed to lead nowhere. Pleasant but nothing more. and, 2003 Coopers Creek, Sauvignon Blanc: Extremely herbaceous with cat pee and little else to redeem it. NZ makes much better sauvignons than this (I hope). With the following dishes: Braised beef with a couple of side dressings Crab with Sweet Pickled Chili Tart Corn Soufflé Eggplant, Tomato and Smoked Mozzarella Tart Asparagus and Orange Salad Pear and Apple Salad with Gruyere and Toasted Pecans 2000 Deloach, Zinfandel: Oak soup, gaaaack! and, 1998 Hirtzberger, Weifzburgunder, Steinportz Smaragd: Lovely wine with depth and character and precision; not at the level of some of this producer’s best wines but very near. My first Weifzburgunder from this producer; it made me want to explore the varietal. and. 2000 Boxler, Riesling Brand: Not yet showing its “Brand-ness” but more a generic yet well-constructed riesling. Given time, this should be outstanding. and, 2002 Trevor Jones, Virgin Chardonnay: Nothing to complain about here – and nothing to recommend it. and, 1999 Jasmin, Cote Rotie (mag.): When first opened it smelled and tasted like generic, domestic syrah; after an hour or so it became what it should be – a relatively lightweight, intense and complex example of its terroir that tends toward the feminine side. Lovely wine in need of several years in the cellar. With this kind of balance, it would not surprise me if this needed a decade to show its best. With Lemon Meringue Pie and Grape and Plum Cobbler: 1998 Mondavi, Sauvignon Blanc Botrytis (375): Intensely sweet, lovely aromatics but thick and cloying on the palate. I’ll take coffee with the desserts, if you please. Best, Jim

1997 Trimbach, Riesling Cuvee Frederic Emile (375): Singing. Beautifully scented in a soft tropical way; brighter on the palate but still good depth and a viscous texture, concentrated, intense and balanced; long finish. Charming wine that undoubtedly will last and develop in the cellar but is delicious now. 1996 Chateau Montelena, Cabernet Sauvignon (375): Smells like cabernet (not wood), tastes like cabernet (not manipulated), is well balanced and concentrated. But there is nothing distinctive here. My last bottle and I’m not sorry to see it go. 2000 Hamacher, Pinot Noir: Opened by mistake (I thought I had grabbed the 1998); closed, clean, slightly out of balance but not in an unfriendly way. Needs several years. 2001 Giacosa, Nebbiolo d’Alba, Valmaggiore: All stones, chalk and red fruit on the nose, complex and captivating; medium weight on the palate with good acidity and flavors that follow the nose with some complexity, excellent balance; medium finish. Also needs several years but showed pretty well nonetheless. 1993 Vincent Arroyo, Petite Sirah Res.: Big wine; worsted texture; long somewhat drying finish. Eleven years old and it tastes exactly the same as it did on release. For some, that may be desirable; not for me. This may be a good example of the variety but it is fast becoming a variety I have no use for. Aside: My daughter was in town this past week to spend her 31st birthday with us. I can not think of a single person I am more comfortable with. In the same matter of fact way that I can not jump over a house, she can not impose upon me; no matter how often or how long she stays. The parting though . . . that’s another matter entire. Even so, a good week. Best, Jim

2001 Liger-Balair, Vosne-Romanee La Colombiere: A bright, lightweight, airy wine with little Vosne spice but a very clean, fruit filled palate and good intensity. Reminded me more or OR than Vosne, but, OR at its very best. My first taste of wine from this producer. Thanks John. 1998 Jadot, Moulin-a-Vent Chateau des Jacques: Way too young to drink and much too big even with decanting, Needs serious aging and has the stuffing to go several decades. Already developing complexity. 1999 Savoye, Morgon Fut de Chene: Delicious wine without any of the wood smells or flavors the label infers. Cherry and raspberry, well concentrated, with a little spice and almost hidden structure. Enjoyed with homemade, grilled pizza; absolutely yummy. Best, Jim

2000 Copain, Pinot Noir Dennison Vnyd.: Cranberry and light underbrush on the nose and as it opens the fruit becomes more diffuse but no less vigorous; crisp and clean across the palate with flavors that echo the nose, excellent intensity, concentrated, slightly closed, bright and fresh, good balance; excellent persistence. This wine cuts its own path; I want to say it trends toward the Chambolle profile; no, no, it’s more halfway between CA and OR; well, the truth is, it has its own signature. Good depth and distinct character coupled with balance – the recipe for a fine wine but it needs several years in the cellar. I can’t think of another CA pinot noir that has this kind of promise. 2000 Luneau-Papin, Muscadet Clos de Allees: This may last as well as many of the wines from this house, but I will drink mine soon. Aromatically open with sea shell, lime skin, rain water and mineral scents; nicely open and appealing on the palate with flavors that follow the nose, has lost just the slightest bit of intensity, still beautifully structured (almost expressively so) and good length. One of those wines I am glad I am coming to the last of; not because I have not enjoyed it but because I feel its best time is now. Delicious. 2002 Coudert, Clos de la Roilette, Fleurie Cuvee Tardive: Powerfully scented, almost brooding with black fruit, mineral, chalk and an impression of cold metal (I’m not sure how else to describe it); the same on the palate with intensity, concentration, structure and a texture that reminds me of very fine sandpaper; great length. It may not be what one expects from Fleurie, but this is terrific wine. Forget preconceptions, this has a vinous character that seems to act as a medium for delivery of a rich and powerful mouth-feel and strong flavors. Will last a long time and develop over time but tastes great now. Best, Jim

Just a few brief notes on wines tasted recently: 2002 B. Giacosa, Arneis: This producer makes it very easier to buy his lower priced wines; they seem to have all the quality of the high-end stuff at a fraction of the cost. This was bright, spicy, vinous, slightly tart, fruit forward and was the perfect aperitif. 1998 Mittnach-Klack, Riesling Schoenberg VV: After several years of showing sweeter than I thought it should, now its more balanced and showing more structure. Still a bit of RS but not so much as to obscure the flavors. Pretty good, at this stage. 1998 Veneti, Amarone: Absolutely nothing wrong with this wine; just nothing to make it memorable or interesting. And Amarone should be interesting. 1988 Jadot, Clos-du-Vougeot: Slightly oxidized but this had a core of meaty, slightly sauvage fruit with hints of game and plum concentrate; nicely balanced and complex. Not at full song but clearly a grand cru wine opened before the fat lady’s ditty. 2001 von Kesselstatt, Riesling Kabinett, Scharzhofberger: For those who have not tried the combination, this wine (or one similar) with roasted beets and ricotta salada is just heaven. A crisp, almost spritzy wine with enough RS to compliment the beets and sufficient cut to contrast with the cheese. Fresh, clean and yummy. NV Alianca, Vinho Verde: Light smells of fresh herbs, laundry detergent and lime juice; light and crisp in the mouth with a savory custard flavor (but not texture) and lime juice flavors, clean, airy (just the faintest hint of spritz), refreshing, 9% alcohol and perfectly enjoyable. I’m going to drink a lot of this at $7. 1999 Conterno, Barbera d’Alba: Diane loves it, I find it sour. Odd; I sense this is good wine, I can taste the quality but the flavors just don’t do it for me. After also trying Giacosa’s barbera recently, I’m pretty well convinced that I can do without this variety. Thanks John. 1999 Barthod, Chambolle-Musigny: Young, primary, fruit forward and obviously packed with what will, one day, make it a joy to have with dinner. Drink now only if you don’t want to know such charms. And then two wines that were show stoppers: 1998 Hirsch, Riesling Gaisberg Alte Reben: Still shows very young but the combination of density, concentration and structure is so perfectly balanced that this wine seems as deft as it does powerful. That wonderful paradox that raises wine into the top tier; finesse with strength, is vividly present. Grand vin with a long, lovely future. Delicious. 1992 Allemand, Cornas Reynard: Round in the mouth yet stunning complexity; enough maturity to run the Cornas gamut with meat, blood, underbrush, herb, succulent red and black fruit, pepper and so much more, all of it held in focus by an almost hidden structure. Dream sequence wine, finesse and endless depth. And just so damn good with a mixed grill of sausages that I’ll never forget that dinner. Best, Jim

There it is. In that case, I've had more than a few hundred pointers in my time. One with you, as I recall . . . Best, Jim

You know, I'm not sure I'd call it perfect, but as close as I've been was one bottle of 1982 Cheval Blanc. I've actually had two (same source) one very. very good. But the second was had around a table with good food and good friends and it is the only time I ever remember having a wine that, after we all had the first sip, nobody spoke. Thereafter, there was alot to say, but those first seconds . . . well, maybe that's where perfection lies. Best, Jim