Margaret Pilgrim
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Posts posted by Margaret Pilgrim
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Ahhh. Is this the reason that we so often feel more satisfied and inspired by a seemingly ordinary, modestly sourced and executed meal in the country, often at a private home, than in our targeted "name" restaurants? Sad, if so. Does someone need to get a clue?Yes, indeed, and this is one of the things that can be said against the Michelin star system. Although I do not think Michelin is the only culprit, it has more to do with the new aspect of globalized, "developed" societies, and Michelin follows, confirms, solidifies, petrifies the process, being both a cause and a consequence. "High end" and shall I say "medium-end" dining has become, in most cases, stereotyped international cuisine and you rarely experience meals that could have been prepared only in the region they are served in. There no longer are any local ties or roots for any dishes, whether on a regional or even a national scale. When you get local preparations, they are made acceptable, sanitized for an international audience, therefore they are fake. You eat foie gras and girolles, pata negra, infuriating black venere risotto (will they please stop with that glop once and for all?), unnecessary caviar and Breton lobster all over the world. Now products may be local and proudly advertised as such. But locality in style and preparation has become ringard, i.e. shamefully obsolete, which IMO is a real problem. And plating looks the same all over the world. How come that no one (in my experience) stands up and says how boring this all ends up to be? -
When you are at the source, simple prep of the freshest ingredients will most often trump fancy kitchen antics. My husband compares all scallops to those that seemingly danced through the saute pan enroute from ocean to plate at a non-descript hole in the wall in St. Malo on a bitterly cold winter evening.What is definitely a must in the Cancale region is the seafood, butter and vegetables (pré-salé vegetables are more reliable than lamb, so it seems). -
I can't believe that I didn't post about La Bruguiere here since it was immediately one of our favorite table d'hotes. With apologies, here is what I wrote elsewhere:
Pascale and Philippe Nusswitz incorporate their previous lives in the hospitality industry and as a top sommelier into their chambre d'hote sideline at their lovely vineyard in Durfort (just south of Anduze and Ales) in the Languedoc. We stayed with them for two nights in the separate and private "Magnanerie" suite, a converted silkworm "factory", and enjoyed their generous table both nights. Pascale is a fine cook, and Phylippe thrives on sharing and discussing their wines. All this at 85€ a night for the suite (an off-season rate), including breakfast and 30€ each for a lovely dinner that included aperitif and hors d'oeurvres in front of the fireplace, 4 courses with a different wine for each course. Pascale and Philippe are darling and interesting. We've already fit them into next year's schedule.
La Bruguiere is centrally located to act as a hub for exploring the Languedoc.
This chambre d'hote, vineyard and winemaking are second careers for Pascale and Philippe. She caught the hospitality bug when she worked with Relais and Chateaux and Philippe was named "Sommelier of the Year" in France in the mid-80s, also worked and traveled with Paul Bocuse. Interesting people.
Adding, there wines are superb and reasonable.
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I have not been to Itineraires, but in my experience there are very few restaurant kitchens who are not at times victims of circumstance-- staffing problems, over-booked dining rooms and the like....
I liked the Temps au Temps for what it was, a charming neighborhood restaurant, that served good food—perhaps people are looking for more and are judging them too harshly, or perhaps Itineraires is trying to do too much. I am definitely interested in trying it, but may not be able to until the rentrée.
Above emphasis mine.
On the night of our visit, the dining room was full, with most diners on the same course. People with no reservations continued to come in and be turned away. Table by table service from the kitchen was very slow. It is my sense that the kitchen staff is small and the dining room large. First seatings should be staggered more to allow the kitchen to establish a pace. No one can serve fifty different covers simultaneously. And in trying to maintain service, there is little time for reflection on either plates leaving or returning to the kitchen.
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I am constantly surprised to discover the proximity of various departments. In my mind, Lyon (Rhone) is distant from the Ardeche. But like two teardrops, one inverted, they are touching.Not a knock-off, it was not invented in Lyon but in Haute-Ardèche, in a little village surprisingly called Saint-Félicien. It is slightly fattier and creamier than saint-marcellin but is in the same family of cheeses and has the same geographical origin. Both cheeses used to be made from goat's milk.It's entirely natural/reasonable that the two cheeses are so related.
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Do you have an approximate location for Chez Claude, Abra? Rte 981, Uzes to Remoulins? Or N100 to Avignon?
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Another name that I keep stumbling over is Pascal Le Glacier. He was closed the one time we made the trek to his shop in the 16th near La Muette.
Hours (taken off door sign) are 10:30 -19h
Closed Sunday and Monday.
Pascal le Glacier
17 Bois le Vent
01.45.27.61.84
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If you are looking for a comfortable, convenient and generous base for exploring the food of Biarritz and even, as we experienced, a lodging for a spurt over the border for lunch at Etxebarri in Spain, consider Nere Chocoa. Warm welcome, knowledgeable hosts, fine breakfasts.
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You've just coined a name for the way our son ate most of his X and Y years.(Oh, come to think of it,...I'm going to launch a new trend myself, say for instance brinner? A compromise of "breakfast" and "dinner" for people with a very irregular lifestyle and loose sense of timing. Cool, I think I've got something, let's see if it grows corn…)
For years, the first thing I would say when he entered the house was, "Have you eaten?" Prevented not a little mal entendement due to low blood sugar.
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After a number of days of eating in Bourgogne, there comes a time when something light and piquant sounds like the answer. Our hostess recommended and joined us at Le Riz Perlé where we were quickly adopted by tiny, beautiful and vivacious Lucy, the one-woman front of house. She was very excited about having found what she considered perfect mangos in Paris that morning, direct from Vietnam by plane.
We all ordered a shellfish marmite which was a bowl of beautifully seasoned broth full of barely (i.e., properly) cooked scallops, mussels, prawns, squid. A little steamed rice on the side.
Then the mango. Simply that: pitted and scored and unlike any we'd ever tasted. The way mango is, I guess, supposed to taste.
A refreshing rosé, and that was it. A perfect little meal served by a most gracious hostess. Under 80€ for the three of us.
Le Riz Perlé
106, rue Thénard
89100 Sens
03.86.64.52.17 Closed Sunday night and Monday mid-day.
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We were finally in the area with part of a free day and I insisted we go the the Abbaye de Cîteaux and try to buy some of their famous but incredibly hard to source cheese. We were in luck in that the cheese was both in season and in stock. We bought a huge (9" x 1/1/2") wheel for 11€. The price is 15€ a kilo.
This is a lovely cheese, slightly smelly, oozy but nutty and mellow in taste. Worth a go if you are driving the Cote d'Or. It's only some 10km off the main Beaune-Dijon wine route. We shared half the wheel with our host and the balance is a diminishing souvenir in our refrigerator.
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If this is your interest, really worth a visit is MuseeNiepce on the Saone quai in Challon. Fabulous. I asked if I could take pictures, and was given a form to fill out declaring that I was an amateur. I noticed that there was a longer form for professionals with different prohibitions. A fascinating museum covering the earliest to state of the art photography. 3€ admission.....more interest to someone like me is this is where allegedly the first ever photograph was taken.... -
Maison Nièpce is an extraordinary town house that dates from the early 18th Century. John and Huguette have kept the old character of the house while providing every comfort. Rooms are huge. We actually had a several room suite for only 80€.
While breakfasts are quite ample, it is the dinner that shines. As chef, John prepares local products with skill and finesse. Perfectly roasted Bresse chicken, sauteed veal medalions, a huge plateau of local cheeses nightly, an amazing sugar tarte, local strawberries, Cote Challonaise wines. Dinners were a ridiculously low 20€ per person, while wine which was extra was billed at a very reasonable 10€ per person for what seemed like an endless quantity. Conversation around the table was bilingual and lasted well past the last bite of dessert.
Maison Niépce is a perfect place to stop on the drive to the south. Several of the guests were Belgians who had left home that morning. A very cordial and delicious address.
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We tried Itineraires last Thursday evening. I really, really wanted to love this place. The welcome was warm and we were given our choice of best in house tables. My husband was "off his wine feed" so we ordered by the glass and Mme Sendra was delighted to match wines with our several courses.
Our first course was perfect. My gaspacho set a new bar for the dish: an almost clear tomato broth that tasted fresh off the vine, clean herbal accents, like nothing I've had before. I'd kill for the recipe since gaspacho is a summer staple with us. My husband's foie gras was above reproach and the spiced apple puree accent was interesting, if a little close to apple butter for his taste.
Then we waited. Our plates were very slow in arriving and were a jarring contrast to the entrees. My husband's cabillaud in a shellfish nage was just okay. But while I love tarragon, my rable of lapin was completely overwhelmed by its undisciplined use. It was accompanied by an interesting celery root puree, but all in all a rather odd plate.
Then we waited some more. A lot more. I don't remember if we each ordered the same dessert or shared one. It was, however, fennel confit with chevre glace. I wanted to like the combination as well as both parts, but really didn't enjoy any of it.
We were at table for more than two hours for these three courses. It appeared that the kitchen was fighting to stay abreast of the dining room, and it was pretty obvious that it was losing the battle. Larger tables enjoyed the luxury of having no pressure to eat rather than converse, but we noticed all around us that at small tables, the very ong time between courses became a strain.
If all of our dishes were on a par with the gaspacho, I'd book every night. But it wasn't a particularly enjoyable evening, and I was sad when I left.
eta that the beef cheeks were obviously the correct order, but it was such a hot evening that lapin sounded less heavy. Should I go again, however,...
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Well defined, kerriar and glauer. I will add that during our stay we noticed several apparently quite affluent French and German families who, since we had the Garden Room, were obviously staying in the simpler quarters. The Auberge du Cedre is a quintessential mid-Century European experience.
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Quest ce Quon Mange ce Soir a collection of shopping lists, weekly menus and recipes by chefs Camdeborde, Faucher, Paquin and Exbrayat. Simple homely dishes with a little style.
Fils et Cochon Not just eye candy, this is a comprehensive but sweet book on handling pig parts. Pork is given its day. Inspiring.
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I can understsand and agree with all of Abra's comments and caveats. Let me clarify my recommendation.
L'Auberge du Cedre is a fine address when you book the Garden Room and ascertain beforehand that the a la carte dining room will be serving on your nights. It is worth a stay if only for its wine list which is reflective of the best of the Languedoc and is very well priced.
The pension meal is, as Abra suggests, of mess hall quality, and reading between the lines from other travelers and of the official website, bordering of primitive.
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Add to this the fact that food in Britain and Europe is much more expensive than in the US. Superior product in France can be mind-bogglingly expensive by our standards. (Is that a word?High quality ingredients are expensive these days - and I don't expect them to get cheaper anytime soon.
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What the replies on this thread bring home is the importance of having a sense of your own personal dining preferences, both food and dining room, and of painstaking reading between the lines of eGullet as well as Michelin et al. There are many touted restaurants that my husband and I "haven't gotten" (to be honest, there are a good handful of the solid gold recs listed on this thread that disappointed us) as well as many that we adored that some others here have found wanting. I find it most rewarding to read comments reflecting opposite experiences. These can often reveal things that major reviews skip over.
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We just got around to visiting Gialina and found sensational appetizers, fabulous pizza, even tempting desserts plus darling service. Aps and pies were so revelatory that four of us literally fought for tastes of each. Menu changes daily to reflect what's fresh and good in the market. I only wish I didn't have to drive across town to enjoy this sweet place, else I'd eat here once a week.Gialina Pizzeria just opened in Glenn Park. -
Just home from a superb meal shared by four of us. Can anyone tell me for sure what the coating is on the cauliflower or scallops? And cooking technique? Perhaps used on the brussel sprouts on earlier menus? My husband says he will keep me around if I can replicate either of these dishes.
Ethereally light and not a trace of fat. The cauliflower and the scallops, not me. -
In order to work up an important appetite,
please, please allow enough time to walk throught Troyes' fabulous ancient tool museum. Even I, a complete ignoramus when it comes to things mechanical, was enthralled with this extraordinary collection. Many if not most of them have a direct connection with growing, harvesting, preparing food including animal husbandry, or making tools for doing the same. -
Thanks, Pti. Definitive, as usual.
The power of Michelin - Merged topics
in France: Dining
Posted · Edited by Margaret Pilgrim (log)
And for the past several years I have been taking this personally, that I was choosing our restaurants and ordering our meals badly. I can't decide whether your comments are reassuring or devastating.