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Margaret Pilgrim

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Posts posted by Margaret Pilgrim

  1. Where was my head when I forgot to mention our most favorite shopping spot: G. Detou on rue Tiquetonne, cross-street Montorgueil. Wholesale prices on hard to find and/or uber-expensive ingredients: vanilla beans, tonka beans, dried cepes and morels, griottes in kirsch, premium chocolate, powdered fonds, mustards, confitures and on and on and on.... We stop here every visit. A must.

  2. My favorite place to shop is in a regular old grocery store. You can usually find 3 or 4 types of salt and sometimes some interesting herbs and spices at 1/2 the price of the fancy joints.

    Monoprix and Carrefour are both excellent places to look for take-home items. Mustards in many flavors, confitures, candy, sauces. Many of these supermarkets have special aisles of "local products", excellent quality, beautifully packaged and very well priced.
  3. "like the old Polidor".....perhaps the Machon d'Henri on touristy rue Guisarde in the 6th (south of rue de Four, north of St. Suplice). The menu hasn't changed in some 20 years that I can attest to. However, there is a newish chef who really cares about the quality of the classic plates he turns out (again and again and again). Portion size has increased considerably in the last year or so, so seriously consider sharing a starter or going without. The main courses are huge. Note: many plates are sauced, so you might inquire and order sauce on the side if you prefer plain roast chicken or veal chop or steak.

    Henri has soul, if not haute cuisine. Also, it serves 7/7.

  4. .... beautiful, elegant-ish food with a light-ish touch that's not outrageously priced.

    Rino. 4 small-moderately sized courses = 45€ Very beautiful, elegant and completely delicious. Sweet service. Very small; reservations absolutely necessary. ETA Decor is minimum in this almost storefront restaurant. The food is everything.

    46 Rue Trousseau

    75011 Paris, France

    01 48 06 95 85

    Subway: Ledru-Rollin

  5. Bertrand Bley's Les Papilles. Strictly speaking, a wine shop, wine bar, epicerie. But Bretrand's warm welcome and the kitchen's superb food make it a "must go" for us every visit to Paris.

    No choice menu consists of a garnished soup with the tureen left on your table, followed by a casserole of an exquisite protein that can be anything from pork breast to rack of lamb or duck breast, all served in a fine sauce with appropriate vegetables. Then a small plated cheese course and most often some special take of panna cotta. All this for 31€, last visit. Wine is off the shelf price + 8€ corkage.

    We'll be there in a week! Cheers!

    http://www.lespapillesparis.fr/EN_presentation_bistroy.html

  6. Rather than what would people like to see, I think the question should be what things, people and places in the various Paris neighborhoods do YOU love? What places have been most memorable to YOU? What places or situations have YOU found unique and unforgettable?

    Walking tours of Paris are ubiquitous, both in print and on pavement. What you bring to these experiences is what will set you apart from a $20 guide book.

    For every hour of one of your tours you will probably (necessarily) spend 100 hours of walking and introducing yourselves, asking questions, making notes, taking pictures. A tremendous amount of work, but what fun! Enjoy.

  7. Pastries:... Aurore Capucine, nearer to Ferme St Hubert.

    This shop is unique. Paris is chock-a-block with elegant pastries, but Aurore Capucine is completely over the top. Totally absurd fantasy cakes and sables in outre perfumes such as violet, rose, rosemary or thyme: a veritable peak in to the mad-hatter's pantry. Specialty teas, teapots, cookie jars, tea party accoutrements a bonus.
  8. Le Temps de Vivre is the subject of Patrick Moon's book Arrazat's Aubergines. A good read that also covers other local gastronomic highlights. The restaurant struggled with the upgrading of the Lodeve bypass that caused dreadful bouchons for at least two years. They have keep going and you always know Laurent will be personally preparing your plats. His mentors were the Pourcel's at Le Jardin de Sens in its heyday.

    For what it's worth, I received the following in a 2010 email from Patrick Moon: " Le Temps de Vivre closed a couple of years ago, after Laurent and Laurence split up."

  9. We had planned to go to Une Ile in Angers, just over an hour from Paris by TGV. Lunch reservations made, train schedule researched from home. All systems go. Then we went to the SNCF boutique to buy the train tickets and found that the short notice fare was 270€ instead of the well under 50€ I had seen on the net. We canceled our lunch reservation and will enjoy this outing another time when I buy the tickets in good time.

    This is a sweet address. http://www.une-ile.fr/

  10. As someone who has dined at Spring from its earliest days through several meals at its new space and incarnation, I urge you to discuss your recent experience with Daniel personally. There are always bugs in new operations that need to be addressed. I assure you that, while he is stretched thin as he continues to define the boutique, the upstairs and finally the wine bar, he is most interested in your experience and pleasure.

    Drop in or write him. It is a service to him, to future diners and to yourself.

  11. If Paul is going to be in Paris with the frequency he suggests, there is no reason he can't book ahead at Frenchie (although I personally find no reason to go back after four decreasingly satisfying visits), Rino or Chateaubriand. If all other means fail, do a walk-by during open hours, stick your head in and book ahead.

    Sadly, spontenaety at hip restaurants died a long time ago.

  12. Your arrondisement is a hot one for excellent moderately priced dinners. Note that 16e may be a hike from your hotel.

    In the 15e, check out Alfaria, Beurre Noisette, Le Grand Pan, Cristal de Sel, Le Troquet and above all, Jadis. Depending on the location of your hotel, certainly don't overlook Le Regalade in 14e, also Le Cerisaie, Jue de Quilles, Cantine du Troquet, Le Severo, Les Petites Sorcieres. You chose your hotel well. Enjoy!

  13. Oh, please include Le Mimosa in Saint Guiraud. For a number of years we have enjoyed a fine dinner, cooked by Bridget accompanied by David's superb wine pairings, either wonderful local choices or from his considered and sophisticated list of wines from farther afield. After being so cosseted at the restaurant, we fall into a luxe bed at their adorable hostel a few km away in St. Saturnin de Lucian.

    Actually this thread makes my mouth water as we look forward to enjoying the Pugh's hospitality early next month.

  14. I have two exceptional table d'hotes to recommend.

    La Forestiere is a special lodging in the foothills west of the wine trail, a lovely refuge from the delightful but touristy villages along the trail. Eric is a hunter and a professional game butcher; Catherine is a suberb home chef. Meals were copious and special. Rooms were stylish and very comfortable. A superb address.

    And farther west, in the middle of the Jura, in the fairyland village of Chateau Chalon, famed for extraordinary vin jaune:Le Relais des Abbesses. Again, a superb site, a talented chef and lovely rooms in an historic village abbey. A wonderful visit.

    Both excellent sense of terroir.

  15. This is a wonderful thread. The TGV can take you to so many fine destinations. As already suggested, Maison Pic, certainly Lyon and Dijon. Let's not forget Avignon to the south and delightful Bistrot Yopala in St. Brieuc (Britany). Then there's Strasbourg and even Lille.

    I would also consider taking a rental car instead of a cab. SNCF has a relationship with Avis that provides the cheapest car rental that one picks up at the depot, often just asking for the key from the ticket agent and returning the same to the same. For a day's rental, you have a slightly larger range than a cab and the freedom it provides.

  16. We used Chateau Mont Dol as our base for visiting Mont St. Michel. It is a chambre d'hote between Cancale and MSM, within convenient range for also isiting Dinan and St. Malo. The owner is the ex chef at the French Embassy in London and offers a superb evening meal besides a copious breakfast, all local produce and specialties. Lovely people, and very nice rooms. Difficult to reserve but worth the planning.

  17. This local wimp agrees with all the others.

    And the Champs is absolutely frightening on New Year's Eve.

    Since you have an apartment, by all means get your collective weight in foie gras and seafood and bubblies, put on a Callas cd and toast the Nouvel An.

    Amen. One of the best holidays in memory was a Christmas Day in London. Our son was flying over to join us and we'd planned to book at a classic hotel restaurant. When I heard the price, I turned heel, headed to Harrod's, bought a king's ransom worth (but less than the restaurant cost for three) of indulgences. We poured the bubbly, pulled the detonators on our "crackers", donned our paper crowns and had one of the, hands down, best holiday meals in any of our memories.

    In addition, I always have the feeling that one is considered/treated like an amateur on New Year's Eve (or prom night...).

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