Margaret Pilgrim
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Posts posted by Margaret Pilgrim
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Bertrand Bley's Les Papilles. Strictly speaking, a wine shop, wine bar, epicerie. But Bretrand's warm welcome and the kitchen's superb food make it a "must go" for us every visit to Paris.
No choice menu consists of a garnished soup with the tureen left on your table, followed by a casserole of an exquisite protein that can be anything from pork breast to rack of lamb or duck breast, all served in a fine sauce with appropriate vegetables. Then a small plated cheese course and most often some special take of panna cotta. All this for 31€, last visit. Wine is off the shelf price + 8€ corkage.
We'll be there in a week! Cheers!
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Rather than what would people like to see, I think the question should be what things, people and places in the various Paris neighborhoods do YOU love? What places have been most memorable to YOU? What places or situations have YOU found unique and unforgettable?
Walking tours of Paris are ubiquitous, both in print and on pavement. What you bring to these experiences is what will set you apart from a $20 guide book.
For every hour of one of your tours you will probably (necessarily) spend 100 hours of walking and introducing yourselves, asking questions, making notes, taking pictures. A tremendous amount of work, but what fun! Enjoy.
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This shop is unique. Paris is chock-a-block with elegant pastries, but Aurore Capucine is completely over the top. Totally absurd fantasy cakes and sables in outre perfumes such as violet, rose, rosemary or thyme: a veritable peak in to the mad-hatter's pantry. Specialty teas, teapots, cookie jars, tea party accoutrements a bonus.Pastries:... Aurore Capucine, nearer to Ferme St Hubert.
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Le Temps de Vivre is the subject of Patrick Moon's book Arrazat's Aubergines. A good read that also covers other local gastronomic highlights. The restaurant struggled with the upgrading of the Lodeve bypass that caused dreadful bouchons for at least two years. They have keep going and you always know Laurent will be personally preparing your plats. His mentors were the Pourcel's at Le Jardin de Sens in its heyday.
For what it's worth, I received the following in a 2010 email from Patrick Moon: " Le Temps de Vivre closed a couple of years ago, after Laurent and Laurence split up."
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We had planned to go to Une Ile in Angers, just over an hour from Paris by TGV. Lunch reservations made, train schedule researched from home. All systems go. Then we went to the SNCF boutique to buy the train tickets and found that the short notice fare was 270€ instead of the well under 50€ I had seen on the net. We canceled our lunch reservation and will enjoy this outing another time when I buy the tickets in good time.
This is a sweet address. http://www.une-ile.fr/
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As someone who has dined at Spring from its earliest days through several meals at its new space and incarnation, I urge you to discuss your recent experience with Daniel personally. There are always bugs in new operations that need to be addressed. I assure you that, while he is stretched thin as he continues to define the boutique, the upstairs and finally the wine bar, he is most interested in your experience and pleasure.
Drop in or write him. It is a service to him, to future diners and to yourself.
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If Paul is going to be in Paris with the frequency he suggests, there is no reason he can't book ahead at Frenchie (although I personally find no reason to go back after four decreasingly satisfying visits), Rino or Chateaubriand. If all other means fail, do a walk-by during open hours, stick your head in and book ahead.
Sadly, spontenaety at hip restaurants died a long time ago.
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Certainly extra virgin olive oil is certainly popular, and bacon is almost on its way out. How about beet? or tomato? or artichoke?
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Your arrondisement is a hot one for excellent moderately priced dinners. Note that 16e may be a hike from your hotel.
In the 15e, check out Alfaria, Beurre Noisette, Le Grand Pan, Cristal de Sel, Le Troquet and above all, Jadis. Depending on the location of your hotel, certainly don't overlook Le Regalade in 14e, also Le Cerisaie, Jue de Quilles, Cantine du Troquet, Le Severo, Les Petites Sorcieres. You chose your hotel well. Enjoy!
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Interesting but not surprising. When did you (and we) say that?
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Nice address, Parigi. I'd love to see more referals like this.
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I can't believe there have been no replies/comments to this! What do people think of these results?
Michelin fatigue, perhaps? Or worse, a case of "whom cares?"
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Oh, please include Le Mimosa in Saint Guiraud. For a number of years we have enjoyed a fine dinner, cooked by Bridget accompanied by David's superb wine pairings, either wonderful local choices or from his considered and sophisticated list of wines from farther afield. After being so cosseted at the restaurant, we fall into a luxe bed at their adorable hostel a few km away in St. Saturnin de Lucian.
Actually this thread makes my mouth water as we look forward to enjoying the Pugh's hospitality early next month.
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I have two exceptional table d'hotes to recommend.
La Forestiere is a special lodging in the foothills west of the wine trail, a lovely refuge from the delightful but touristy villages along the trail. Eric is a hunter and a professional game butcher; Catherine is a suberb home chef. Meals were copious and special. Rooms were stylish and very comfortable. A superb address.
And farther west, in the middle of the Jura, in the fairyland village of Chateau Chalon, famed for extraordinary vin jaune:Le Relais des Abbesses. Again, a superb site, a talented chef and lovely rooms in an historic village abbey. A wonderful visit.
Both excellent sense of terroir.
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This is a wonderful thread. The TGV can take you to so many fine destinations. As already suggested, Maison Pic, certainly Lyon and Dijon. Let's not forget Avignon to the south and delightful Bistrot Yopala in St. Brieuc (Britany). Then there's Strasbourg and even Lille.
I would also consider taking a rental car instead of a cab. SNCF has a relationship with Avis that provides the cheapest car rental that one picks up at the depot, often just asking for the key from the ticket agent and returning the same to the same. For a day's rental, you have a slightly larger range than a cab and the freedom it provides.
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We used Chateau Mont Dol as our base for visiting Mont St. Michel. It is a chambre d'hote between Cancale and MSM, within convenient range for also isiting Dinan and St. Malo. The owner is the ex chef at the French Embassy in London and offers a superb evening meal besides a copious breakfast, all local produce and specialties. Lovely people, and very nice rooms. Difficult to reserve but worth the planning.
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TGV to Besançon.
Car (maybe 50km) to Arbois.
Château de Chavaneschambre d'hote in a vineyard just out of town.
or in town,
Le Closerie les Capucineschambre d'hote in
Arbois.
Dine or stay at Jean-Paul Jeunet in Arbois.
Visit neighboring famed hilltop village of Chateau Chalon, the vineyards shown here:
This is God's country.
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Amen. One of the best holidays in memory was a Christmas Day in London. Our son was flying over to join us and we'd planned to book at a classic hotel restaurant. When I heard the price, I turned heel, headed to Harrod's, bought a king's ransom worth (but less than the restaurant cost for three) of indulgences. We poured the bubbly, pulled the detonators on our "crackers", donned our paper crowns and had one of the, hands down, best holiday meals in any of our memories.This local wimp agrees with all the others.
And the Champs is absolutely frightening on New Year's Eve.
Since you have an apartment, by all means get your collective weight in foie gras and seafood and bubblies, put on a Callas cd and toast the Nouvel An.
In addition, I always have the feeling that one is considered/treated like an amateur on New Year's Eve (or prom night...).
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deleted because of faulty link
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I don't know "families". Can you explain? Thanks.
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Someone should mention that perfect ice cream depends on the taste of the beholder. For instance, I have found that coffee flavor ranges all over the map from intense espresso to something akin to molasses.
So I'd ask, what flavors will you seek? Caramel au beurre sale is a darling as is bacon. Repost when you have set your goals. Also, consider if your are looking for soft or firm, with or without a topping. Paris will not disappoint but you would do well to have a plan.
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I am not especially familiar with Daniel Rose or really Aizpitarte either of course, but I cannot picture the latter working at his best (or maybe wanting to work at all) in a very 'formal' kitchen.
Yes, they do have completely different work patterns. In the original location, Daniel has always been 100% hands-on and involved with every plate. Aizpitarte, on our visit, took orders and retreated behind the bar where he held court for the rest of the evening. He never entered the kitchen that I noticed.
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We visited Les Papilles twice during our September stay in Paris. And once again, an excellent meal followed Bertrand's warm welcome. The first evening, the soup was a cool and refreshing cucumber gaspacho garnished with mint, dill, lardons and mini-croutons. The cocotte held rare duck breast with baby potatoes, carrots, snow peas and braised garlic. We opted for some frizzie salad rather than the suggested cheese course so that we'd have room for coffee creme brulee.
On our second visit, the soup-plate was stunning
even before the mushroom gaspacho was added.
Rosy cote d'agneau cut into chops for easy serving sat atop ratatouille in the copper pot. Two chops per person. Tender as love and delicious.
The cheese was St. Nectaire served with salad and fruit compote, dessert was mirabella panna cotta. Lovely and we are definitely "saite". What a bargain at 31€ for the four courses! As usual, we let Bertrand choose wine for us from his interesting collection. (7€ corkage and you can take back to your hotel what you don't finish.)
We can't go to Paris without at least one meal at Les Papilles. We love this place.
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It's a no-brainer, but if she wants a 'once in a lifetime extraordinary vegetable based meal', she should consider l'Arpege. That said, we have found that when we travel with vegetarian friends, particularly if we mention the preference when we make the reservation, essentially no restaurant has failed to come up with delightful and creative dishes.
Paris recommendations needed
in France: Dining
Posted · Edited by Margaret Pilgrim (log)
Rino. 4 small-moderately sized courses = 45€ Very beautiful, elegant and completely delicious. Sweet service. Very small; reservations absolutely necessary. ETA Decor is minimum in this almost storefront restaurant. The food is everything.
46 Rue Trousseau
75011 Paris, France
01 48 06 95 85
Subway: Ledru-Rollin