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According to Michael Klein's "Table Talk" in the Inky, "Tacconelli's Pizzeria, the Port Richmond landmark dishing out brick-oven-baked thin crusts since 1946, has added a second location: It's at 450 S. Lenola Rd., Maple Shade (856-638-0338) and is run by son Vincent. It's dinner only - take-out and eat-in - Tuesdays through Sundays. Unlike at Port Richmond, you do not have to call to reserve pizza dough." Courier-Post has photo of oven here.

Last (oppressively muggy) Sunday night, sampled from the July menu (well, they were closed until 7/19). Not much help I guess for anyone going there now, but here goes: Amuse: Crab (?) raviolo Starters: Marinated Octopus -- nicely chewy, tangy Corn/Clam Chowder -- topped w/four plump, fried Ipswichs, very corny, very thyme-y Mid-Course: Tuna Basquaise w/polenta -- seared, rare tuna excellently paired w/a peppery, smokey sauce. From my experience, a different flavor direction for Bryan. Leek Quiche w/potatoes and mushrooms -- individual quiche, split to share. Very good crust, though too thick, overwhelming the somewhat meager filling. Well seasoned. Sauteed paper-thin potatoes and mushrooms. All sauced with a delicious, thin-ish pine nut pesto. Instead of the latter, I really wanted to have the pissaladiere topped with bleu cheese, but my wife's allergy to the latter nixed that choice. Mains: Roasted Salmon -- can't remember the accompaniments. Salmon was, well, salmon -- never my fish of choice in restaurants. This was, as I recall, just fine. Tilefish w/beans -- first time I've tried this fish. Apparently, its taste has been compared to lobster or scallop. In fact, tilefish feed on crustaceans. It was fairly meaty for a white-fleshed fish, but rather mild with a peculiar, but not unpleasant, finish, somewhat like the aftertaste of a scallop. The beans in a bit of broth paired very well. Dessert: A sorbet (shoot, my memory fails me) on shortbread with ginger semifreddo -- the sf was creamy but not overpoweringly so. It's a good alternative on hot summer nights to the well-known chocalate desserts and cheeses offered. Tab: $85 + tax/tip.

Was discussed awhile back here. Be sure to check out the Portland Mercury article.

Hi mjg & hndapwrman: I used Pittsburgh last year as a base for seeing Fallingwater. I had De Luca's so high on my list that I was out the door of the hotel at 7AM to make sure I didn't have to wait. Cool place, great breakfast, terrific neighborhood, from the little I saw of the Strip on an early Sunday morning. I did two dinners: Isabela, which, despite the kinda boring decor, served very tasty, contemp-American food (e.g., Jamison Farms lamb). Went back up to Grandview the next night and tried LeMont, which appeared to be a sorta landmark restaurant (right?). Very pricey, food only OK. Both restaurants offer splendid view of the river. Didn't get a chance to try a Primanti Brothers sandwich. And BTW: I assume those sandwiches haven't been labelled a security threat at Heinz Field, right? Almost makes it worth changing allegiances...

Could it be a smoking thing? Last time I was there, I was initially seated on the 11th Street (eastern) side of the room. When I asked if I could smoke, they immediately moved me to the other side of the "divider", where an inordinate number of people seemed to be smoking and were, coincidentally, Asian.

Yeah, I almost expected him to say, "Hey, Jean-George, can you hold on a minute? I got Daniel Boulud on the other line." Not my idea of fun. Idiotic description of ingredients ("What's dungeness crab?" "It's a crab from Dungeness, WA."). Manufactured freneticism in the crowd ("Wow, let's see Todd flip that pancake again in slo-mo!!") So, I-M-O, it sucked. To me, I didn't think it was funny. I didn't enjoy it. If FTV wants to descend to offering "silly fun", they've lost one viewer (well, I'll keep watching MM), but I guess they think they'll more than make up for it with new viewers.

Jas.: Went to PG Friday night and took yr suggestion (from CH) on chilaquiles -- beef verde ($9). They are truly excellent. The tortillas were soft but not gooey, the sauce was delightfully tangy, and the beef was nicely grilled (in contrast to my last visit). Again did the sopes ($8) and again they were outstanding. My wife had the shrimp something (spicy w/chunks of peppers) ($12), which I thought was only OK. Have you tried Rio Grande yet?

True about Vilanch. And, he seemed to be eating every morsel of each dish (prompting the "BFP" comment) -- contradicting the commentators, who discussed the technique of proper taster sampling.

Dunno about "so bad, it's good." Seems rather all-around bad. Floor host "Sissy" Biggers commentary consisted of "Kerry is now taking a stainless steel bowl" or upon learning what Simon was chopping, "Oh, vegetable ... dice". The WWF-style guys yuking it up over sea urchin gonads. And the tasters: a bunny, two TV "stars" and an unkempt comic. Like tommy, I couldn't get over the mantra "I didn't think I was gonna like this, but." The bunny confessed to being a "french-fry gal w/lotsa salt", the comic, to being "a big fat pig." Did anyone notice that at the "2-min to go mark", Simon (whom the FTVN website lists as "Kerry Smith") looked pretty worried about the Bay Seasoning sorbet? It looked reallllly soupy in the shot of the maker. Yet, it served up like water ice. hmmmm. My tivo keeps listing this sh*t as IC/Japan battles. I've now deleted it from my Season Pass, and I hope never to see an episode again.

[AGHAST] [/AGHAST]

Thought I'd look into browniebaker's citation, since: (i) it appears to be a response to calls for examples of eG "elitism", and (ii) the PIB recipe sounds, umm, intriguing. Lo and behold, the case involves the the "skewering" of eG's Recipe Czar in one of her very first posts. The "summary dismissal" consisted of Jin's query, "Marlene, I mean no offence at all. Really. But what is that about with the nuts and honey and sugar and meat?" Marlene's reply ("Don't think anyone here likes it though. sorry, I guess I have basic tastes in food") prompted the quite common eG expressions of support for a newbie with an unusual post (including from posters on the instant thread) and good-natured ribbing of an oldbie. So, the example proves the contrary point: it was the critic who really got "skewered". Some of the posters here seem to mistake the stating of an opinion with a "sense of superiority". On eG, IMO, charges of the latter seem to come most often from those unable to offer a cogent defense of the former.

I remember reading in the Inquirer a number of years ago what I thought was an interview w/someone about Frank's. I remember the discussion about black cherry stemming from "vishniak". I've searched the Inky archives in vain, though I did find an interesting story about Day's, whose black cherry I very much enjoy. I can't link to it, so I'll include a brief quote that, I believe, is just under the fair-use limits on eG: From "Day's Returns to the City -- A Son Revives Family Soda Operation", by Joseph N. DiStefano, Inky, 9/1/97. The article is an interview with David DiGirolamo, who was having success reviving Day's, which was founded by his father, Alfred "Freddy Day" DiGirolamo, in 1947. The bottling plant was located for 20 years at Front and Tasker. According to the article, citing DiGirolamo, "Day's was one of 63 independent soda bottling plants that dotted the city at the industry's peak in the late 1940s. Among the biggest at that time were Frank's and Primo in South Philadelphia, Gruber's in Fairhill, Javies in Manayunk, Puerto Rico on Germantown Avenue, and Sweetie in Northern Liberties. Although the bottlers are gone, a few of the brands, notably Frank's fruit drinks and Hires root beer, are still marketed by out-of-town bottlers who have bought the names and formulas. DiGirolamo says those brands have endured because they slake Philadelphians' peculiar thirsts. He says Day's tries to do the same: The cream soda is clear - not brown, like some national brands - because clear, he says, is how locals like it. The black cherry is called wishniak, a Polish name picked up by Jewish-owned city bottlers like Frank's a century ago."

The Business section of today's Inky featured a nice piece on El Mercado and its manager, Elvin Padilla.

I've eaten at the Mercado a couple of times. It's a lunch-time thang, and not all vendors are open everyday. The taco place is run by a real friendly couple. He takes orders, she cooks on a little grill in front of your eyes. Unfortunately, they don't make a very good taco -- nothing compared to the WashAve places. There's also a Salvadoran vendor (who's been closed all three times I've been) and a baker who comes in on the weekends. Produce also looks good, though not a great variety. That said, the Mercado is an undertaking that is to be supported. Norris Square been down so long... Now, the locals (and they run the gamut) have a tidy, friendly place to shop and get info. The backers hope that continued support will generate more (and better) vendors. I'm with 'em on that.

After reading the Riesling thread with interest, and having returned from a recent trip to a wine grower in the Pfalz (Weingut Ratzenberger in Bacharach), I thought I might offer a translation of the "How to Read a Wine Label" primer from the WeinGuide Deutschland 2003, which I studied prior to my trip. The Guide offers other useful infos, like grape varietals, which I'd be happy to reproduce here if anyone wants. The Wine Label German wine labels are so detailed and precise that hardly anyone understands them. We will attempt to help with an explanation using a sample label. Required Information: 1. Producer or Bottler. The terms Schloss, Burg, Kloster and Domäne are reserved exclusively for bottlings by a producer. Estates may also use the term Gutsabfüllung (i.e., "estate bottled"), but cooperatives must list Erzeugerabfüllung (i.e., "producer bottled") on their labels. 2. The Official Testing Number must be included for all Qualität and Prädikat wines. This number is comprised of several identification numbers. In the example, the number 7 stands for the testing agency of the growing region; 763, for the town; 19, for the grower; and 20 means the 20th annual testing of the grower measured in the current test year, here 1993 (= 93). Table wines must list a lot number, from which the bottler of the wine may be determined. [i can give more details about this very Germanic coding system if anyone wants.] 3. The producer’s or bottler’s location must be indicated, including the country. For Germany, the letter "D" is sufficient. 8. The volume of the bottle must be indicated, e.g., 0.75L or 750 ml. 9. The growing region must be listed for Qualität and Prädikat wines. 10. The alcohol content must be provided. Voluntary Information: 4. The name of the village and the vineyard designation where the wine originated may be included. 5. The type of grape from which the wine was pressed may be listed; two types may be given. 6. The year in which the grapes were grown may be indicated. Note that Eiswein harvested on, e.g., January 2, 2002 will be considered a 2001 vintage. [Ratzenberger remembered harvesting one Eiswein growth on Christmas Eve]. 7. The quality level is determined by the sugar content of the grapes, the so-called Mostgewicht [determined by using a refractometer; don't know the translation] . Each growing region has its own specific requirements. For example, wines designated Prädikat (Kabinett, Spätlese, Auslese) may not be "enhanced" prior to fermentation. [i found this to be a little dodgy; there's more detailed info elsewhere if anyone wants.] 11. Style. Depending on acidity, a dry (trocken) wine may have at most 9 grams of sugar, and a semi-dry (halbtrocken), at most 18 grams. Hope this helps.

I used to go quite often to Golgotha in Kreuzberg. It's a huge, open-air kneipe/cafe up on top of, well, a hill. Paris Bar in Charlottenburg in the Kantstraße was always pretty funky, though a bit pricey. And I don't think it exists anymore, but I used to love to go to a chicken joint called Hühner Hugo, hard up against the wall near Checkpoint Charlie. The place was always packed. Their two claims to fame: (i) due to their secret preparation, you could eat the entire chicken, bones and all, and (ii) JFK allegedly stopped by in 1963 . [bTW: day after tomorrow is 40th anniversary () of Ich bin ein Berliner.]

Things keep looking cloudier for Neil Stein's empire. Saturday's Inky reported that Huge Debts put Restaurateur in the Soup, citing a figure of $7MM. I, for one, certainly hope he can extricate himself from the morass created by the Avenue B debacle. I'm no pro, but given the notoriously tight margins in the restaurant industry, that seems like a tough nut to make, even if chipped back in bankruptcy court.

Coupla duck purveyors: Godschall's Poultry in the Reading Terminal Market (+ all other varieties of fowl) -- all fresh, all good Halteman Family Country Foods in the RTM. Frozen duck legs, but truly local (from the stock of one of their friends in Lancaster County). They are more meaty and less expensive than Godschall's. I've used 'em for ragu and confit. Delicious. Sonny d'Angelo's in the Italian Market. Sonny got Muscovies, I think. But since he tends to purvey quality products, his wares are usually a bit pricier. But his shop is such a trip. Want lion? kangaru? water buffalo? He's got it all. With the local fresh choices available in CC Philly, I try to stay away from d'Artagnan, other than specialty stuff (like duck fat).

I found this Siena B&B on her website for a trip last fall. Though outside the city walls, it was an utterly fantastic place, what with local farmers shooting quail in the fields as we drove up. The common rooms and our expansive guest room were incredibly appointed, lots of beyond-antiques and so lying about. The only complaint was the once THEY voiced: it is expected that you take in one dinner with the sisters at the villa, and they were disappointed we could not accommodate that.

I suppose everyone remembers Episode 1 (hbo, that is) where da G was here in Philly taking part in cop training. He really wanted to take someone down. Respect!

Cross-cultural comparisons can be had as well by checking out the Italian Market festival, also the same weekend, which is being resumed after a 3 or 4 year hiatus. They're closing off 9th Street from Catharine down to Federal (I think), with a stage for live music at the north end (did someone say Bobby Rydell?). Here's the Daily News blurb. As for the St. George's thing, I agree with the above -- it's really terrific. Raised on Detroit's Greektown fare and the cooking of my father's family, I'd say Katie's right on with her ref to the black-clad "church ladies"; their homestyle cooking gives true meaning to "comfort food". It's all good, esp. the 10 or so pastries they offer.

Just to give you a bit of insight, I pass on a column from the Local section of Tuesday's Philadelphia Inquirer, PA Liquor Rules Cross the Line. It cracked up my wife over morning coffee, since we rent a car every 6 weeks or so and head over to South Jersey to load up on liquor at Canal's and wine at Moore Brothers. She always breathes a sigh of relief when we hit the PA side of the Ben Franklin Bridge and round the the curve heading south on 6th Street. I've told her to no avail that while years ago LCB (I think) undercovers would lurk in NJ liquor store parking lots and nab buyers when they tried to cross the bridge, today this is pretty much no longer the case. Being German, she still shudders and says to herself, "Schmuggler". But at the fines listed in the column, I'd be in for a hefty penalty. I usually get at least 3 cases of wine, maybe 10 bottles of liquor, and a case of beer. A stop would hypothetically land me a fine of $1,390 (along with forfeiture of my purchases). Talk about policing a monopoly...

"Love, soft as an easy chair. Love, fresh as the moooorrrrnnning air." SOOO bad I can still remember. Now, what are the words again to "Gotta Fly Now"?

Two state representatives from Philadelphia bring harsh light of day onto nasty Harrisburg politicking. One goes toe-to-toe with Bill O'Reilly and, amazingly, comes out on top. French Rejection

Katie: I was wondering if I were loco, for you always make eminent sense. I was reminded of that line from The Tempest: "You cram these words into mine ears against the stomach of my sense." Maybe there is a problem, based on Allie's post. And Scoats has a point, too: Just tell your customers that the police have banned BYO, and it's "end of story". Just too bad...