ianeccleston
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Posts posted by ianeccleston
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Has anyone else tried the 'new' Italian Beef at Brown's Chicken & Pasta? It isn't bad, especially considering that it's from a chain. It's certainly better than the standard beef you get at most hot dog stands. It doesn't hold a candle to Al's or Johnnie's, but it does the trick.
BTW - good news for north-siders: there's a location of Al's opening up in Evanston.
Ian
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For making duck confit, is there much of a difference in taste if you use pork fat instead of duck/goose fat?
I have access to cheap rendered lard at the mexican markets here in chicago - a gallon goes for about $5. A couple of cups of goose fat goes for more than that! The pork lard that I get from those markets isn't perfectly clear - it's a bit porky. Would I need to strain it or some such thing?
Thanks,
Ian
edited to say: Paula mentions lard as a substitute for poultry fat in the book.
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Too much stuffing might have been the problem. Generally, I tend to overstuff: tacos, crepes, zucchini, you name it. I actually scored the top of the squid to make the pork more exposed, but the squid was still a bit overcooked (but still tasty). I'll try stuffing it with less pork next time, thanks.
I'll second the thai pork-stuffed-squid soup. Good stuff. There's a nice recipe in Thai Food by David Thompson.A problem that I have with stuffed squid is the 2 minute/2 hour problem, that is, either cook it for 2 minutes or 2 hours. That time frame doesn't always work for the stuffing. Using the pork-stuffed squid as an example, the pork was underdone by the time the squid was done, and by the time the pork was done, the squid was a bit tough. Do any of you precook your stuffing ingredients, or precook the squid?
Hrm.. I've never seen the stuffing precooked. When we did it it was always very small squid so there wasn't that much stuffing. Maybe a tbsp? It's usually very quickly blanched so I don't remember tough squid or raw pork. When we served it the squid is sliced across into rings. That might have helped? I don't know. I'm sorry I wish I had more to add. I'll try to make this dish and see if I notice anything with the timing etc.
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I'll second the thai pork-stuffed-squid soup. Good stuff. There's a nice recipe in Thai Food by David Thompson.
A problem that I have with stuffed squid is the 2 minute/2 hour problem, that is, either cook it for 2 minutes or 2 hours. That time frame doesn't always work for the stuffing. Using the pork-stuffed squid as an example, the pork was underdone by the time the squid was done, and by the time the pork was done, the squid was a bit tough. Do any of you precook your stuffing ingredients, or precook the squid?
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I'm afraid if I put truffles in this my husband might have a heart attack from the shock when he learns what I have spent this weeks food budget on. Wendy, your idea does make me think that mushrooms will be good, there is a dried black chinese mushroom that I sliver and add to things for color and crunch now and then. They call it the ear mushroom, I think. Or I could pick up some dried black trumpets for more flavor. Yes, that's it. I think that's what I'll use. Dried black trumpets.
By the way, it's great to have this thread to see how people create their recipes for terrines. Having only made basic terrines is nice to see how other people put together all the component parts. Hurrah, egullet!
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I thought the story was funny, but it was so unnecessary for her to put down the egullet testing team.
Her testing methods were a bit sloppy. I question why anyone would make a fava bean cassoulet in the middle of winter? Why mix up "Nine pounds of fresh fava beans, husked and peeled." with nine pounds of husked beans. The recipe calls for
peeling one cup.
Why would a cookbook reviewer test a recipe in an uncalibrated oven and then complain that the food burned? And why did she substitute a crucial ingredient and then complain about the results?
An interesting side note to her review: more inconsistencies in her last article for the LA times at http://www.latimes.com/features/food/la-fo...-headlines-food
An article in last Wednesday's Food section about food to serve while watching the Super Bowl incorrectly described the recipe for Buffalo wings at Anchor Bar in Buffalo, N.Y. The article said Anchor Bar fries the chicken wings, pours Frank's RedHot sauce on them and offers bottled blue cheese dressing on the side. In fact, the Buffalo wings there are cooked, then tossed with a proprietary sauce that comes in four flavors; the blue cheese dressing is made in-house. Also, retired football player Mean Joe Greene's last name was misspelled as Green. Additionally, an accompanying article describing Frank's RedHot incorrectly stated that this sauce is the "secret ingredient" behind Anchor Bar's wings, which are not made with it. -
My vague recollection is that America's Test Kitchen tested a number of mail-order steaks, and Omaha Steaks were not recommended.
Ian
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I'm sure there are more knowledgable people here at EG - but for my part I'm happy with my Kitchenaid sausage stuffer/grinder attachement. It's the only one I've ever used so I can't compare it to others, but it seems to work well enough.
Cheers,
Ian
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The Deal Maker? Asked if he likes food, the future Mr. Duck said, “I’m a goldfish. I eat everything that’s put in front of me.” On our first date we went for drinks followed by dinner in a nearby restaurant. I was all set to order when the waitron came and told us the specials. Duck was one of them. “I’d like the duck,” I said. Not realizing that it was the most expensive item on the menu. Note: on a first date (or second or third for the matter), I never order the most expensive item on the menu. But I heard duck, and when it presents itself, I must call the duck. I offered to split the check, but being the gentleman he was, paid for the entire bill. And he called the next morning as he said he would. So five plus years later, we’re still exploring the food world together.
What a sweet story. We should start a new thread just for "Deal Makers!"
I'm told that my deal maker came on my first date with my wife. Carrot-ginger soup, and pear and blue cheese salad. A success even though the meal was at my studio - the table was just next to the bed. When I had two guest come over one of them would sit on the bed instead of a chair.
Edit
Ah yes, the Deal Breaker: the girl that didn't know what an egg roll was. C'mon. Never even HEARD of an egg roll?
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*bump*
I thought I'd share this failure in the kitchen so others don't make the same mistake: I made a double batch of lasagne noodles and left them out to dry, per Marcella's instructions on drying pasta. Unfortunately, the noodles curled up, and broke in many places, owing to how brittle they became. Next time I'll freeze them, or use them day of, unless someone has a better idea.
Ian
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Pork stew with winter squash - that's what I did with my last leftover pork shoulder, and it turned out great. Ravoli are a nice use for leftovers too...
Ian
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I used the Cook's illustrated method as well, and got really good results too. The only issue I had was that my mom didn't have a V-rack (I should have asked and just brought mine), so I had to use a flat wire rack set on some carrots and celery. Ths didn't work all that well, bu whatever. This method (or maybe it was the bird) produced an excess of pan juices. So much in fact that the bottom of the bird was swimming in it, and I had to drain the pan 3/4 of the way through. It did make for some kick ass gravy though.
I too did not have a v-rack. I made an impromptu rack out of two burner grates wrapped in tin foil. It worked pretty well.
Ian
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The Cook's Illustrated version worked well for me:
21 pound bird
Overnight brine - 1/2 salt to one gallon water
6 hours out of brine to dry off
buttered & salted outside of turkey
roast, unstuffed, at 1 hour at 425, breast-side down, with carrots, onions and celery inside the bird and in the roasting pan
2 hours at 325, breast-side up
1/2 hour rest.
Great!!! Although I still have 4-5 small burns on my hands from flipping that damn piece of meat....
Ian
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Ka-BUMBPT.
I had to make Thanksgiving dinner early this year, and went super-trad: turkey, squash, dressing, gravy, cranberry sauce, brussels sprouts. Since it was going to be the basics, I wanted to do them very well, and thus turned to Shirley Corriher's mashed potato recipe (based on Jeffrey Steingarten's version). Basically, you slice taters in 1/3" slices, simmer at precisely 160F for 20 minutes, cool down immediately in running water, and then finish with a quick five minute boil, mashing/ricing, butter, pepper, etc.
Did the first steps using yukon golds through the cooling, and I'm here to tell you that the water was at 160.0F precisely. Roasted some garlic and heated cream, mashed garlic, salt and pepper on stove. When I was just about ready to serve everything, I put the potatoes back on the stove, brought plenty of water to the boil, and set the timer for five minutes. Beep. Not done, no problems, it's all good.
Few more minutes. Beep. Still not done. (Sliced turkey now cooling on the sideboard.)
Five more. Beep. Beep. Not done. (Family drooling.)
Ten more. Beep. Beep. Beep. Beep. Not done. (Family toying with knives at table.)
Screwed, I drained them, mashed them, added the cream, and served them. 1/3 of the mess consisted of little nubs of uncooked potato.
What the hell happened? Any tuber technicians out there?
Chris,
According to the Potato Primer Course, the potatoes are cooked TO 160F, not AT 160F.
The trick is to pre-cook the potatoes to about 71C/160F for about 30 minutes and then cool to room temperature or below. The starch swells and gelatinises in the cells, but the temperature is not hot enough to melt the pectic material and break or separate the cells The ensuing cold step is essential, as it causes the starch to retrograde and fix. Temperature control is critical. Use a digital thermometer.Is that right?
Ian
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My problem: I love stuffing, and I love the flavor it gets when it absorbs juices from the bird. I understand that current fashion is to leave the bird unstuffed, as the stuffing may not reach a high enough temperature inside the bird, but what do I do to get that flavor then? Add pan juices to the mix and bake it while the bird sits? Something else?
If you want to get a nice poultry flavor, you might add a bit of brown chicken stock to the dressing as it bakes, that might do the trick. I'm making chicken stock tonight for that same purpose.
BTW, I've heard that stuffing the bird also makes it more likely that the white and dark meat cook unevenly - which is why I'm doing it out of the bird, as dressing, this year.
Cheers,
Ian
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*bump*
Has anyone tried Lidia Bastianich's recipe (scroll down)? She cores the sprouts, discarding the core, and then separates the leaves. Sautee with peperoncino, garlic and lots of EVOO.
Ian
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Cook's Illustrated has a technique: 425 degrees for the first hour, flip it, 325 therafter.
I'm still debating whether to stuff it or not, but it sounds like I'm better off not.
Ian
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I think one of Michael's points is that a media person might come on to a vitriolic thread, see that 'ianeccleston posted xxx on the influential egullet site' and have that make its way into a newspaper.
If you have been on egullet long enough, you you would know which members to trust by reading many of their posts over time. New members you might judge by their writing style. For entire topics, you might see where the consensus falls into place before arriving at an opinion about Doug Psaltis, or how you will go about making your boeuf bourguignon next weekend.
I suspect that many of the media members who write about food for magazines or newspapers regularly check in with egullet if they write about it, and have some sense of how egullet works, and probably wouldn't just arrive too quickly at a decision.
In any case, if a reporter were to pluck quotes or take things out of context from egullet, standard journalistic practices would have to apply. After all, it IS an Internet site with anonymous members. It would be fair to say that a large number of egulleters don't like Rachael Ray (and have been mentioned as such in the press). But chef / writer gossip? At the most it seems like any reputable journalist would have to dig a bit deeper than anonymous posts.
At its core, egullet is about the open exchange of opinions (and stories and so on). Anonymity facititates that, but is a double-edged sword: it either allows people to voice their honest opinion without fear of RL retaliation, or to demean or spew bile without RL repercussion (although these types of posts are generally not taken as seriously). Generally on egullet anonymity has been proven to be a good thing.
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Commentary from a Chicago Tribune columnist
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I think we're talking more about a Starbucks-type, coffehouse/cafe environment - one that caters to people there mostly to sit and drink coffee, but may also serve light food. Much more that than a restaurant or diner setting. As someone pointed out above, these environments are more likely to experience these sorts of issues, due to their generally less structured nature (armchairs facing out instead of tables where chairs face in, and so on).
"Coffee shop," to me, connotes more of a diner atmosphere.
BTW - this particular 'coffee shop' is half-way between a restaurant and a coffee shop. It's partly a high-end pastry/dessert bar and it's pretty small - only 8 tight tables or so. But there is a decent number of 'coffee to go' types as well, usually with some sort of line to the door.
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Say in the interest of keeping sane on Thanksgiving I go with the one larger bird. On other threads I heard mention of cooking at 250 with a 400 degree finish in the last hour for larger birds - has anyone had success with thi
I've done pretty large birds (20lbs) the past 4 or 5 years and used a high-heat method which literally halves the cooking time and have always gotten really positive feedback from guests...last year it was brined and high-heat roasted. although better, not significantly so.
what sort of luck have other people had with high-heat/shorter time?
How high? How long? Sounds interesting.
Ian
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Is there an ideal size of turkey for roasting? i.e. does a 12 pound bird cook more evenly and yield a juicier, tastier product than a 20 pound bird? (I prefer roasting a 3 lb. chicken to a 6 pounder).
I'm considering roasting 2 12 pound turkeys instead of a 20 pounder, despite not having two ovens (well, I have two ovens available, but 3-4 city blocks separate the two)
Ian
Yes. Go with the 2 smaller birds.
Thanks! Crap, now I have to figure out how to get two ovens going.
Say in the interest of keeping sane on Thanksgiving I go with the one larger bird. On other threads I heard mention of cooking at 250 with a 400 degree finish in the last hour for larger birds - has anyone had success with this?
Ian
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Is there an ideal size of turkey for roasting? i.e. does a 12 pound bird cook more evenly and yield a juicier, tastier product than a 20 pound bird? (I prefer roasting a 3 lb. chicken to a 6 pounder).
I'm considering roasting 2 12 pound turkeys instead of a 20 pounder, despite not having two ovens (well, I have two ovens available, but 3-4 city blocks separate the two)
Ian
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Out of towners used to head for the Hot Fish Shop, which also closed years ago.
I remember the Hot Fish Shop, I think, but thought it was closer to the Twin Cities? A Google search turned up no mention of other locations, and I can't believe anyone else would have been using the same name circa 1975?
In fact, I don't think I've ever been to Winona?
SB (whose memory isn't that bad?)(yet)(I hope!)
There was definitely a Hot Fish Shop right in Winona - my cousin used to work there. Alas, no more. But maybe there are other locations?
Ian
Things to do with avocados when you're dead
in Cooking
Posted
Halve avacado. Fill center with crab salad and top with tobiko.
Ian