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Richard Kilgore

eGullet Society staff emeritus
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Posts posted by Richard Kilgore

  1. My experience is also that it heats a little faster. A heat diffuser on the burner helps when I want a slow simmer.

    Take a look at the ChefMate at Target, also. Especially for stockpots. Chefmate stockpot (8, 12, 16 qt.) lids have a steam vent and Tramontina lids don't. You may want to do a search for the old Chefmate thread.

  2. This is simple food, and I have no desire to turn it into something exotic. Fucking tasty, yes. But it's still Brunswick Stew.

    Stew with chicken, without game, can be very, very good, but is....well, chicken stew.

  3. I have a few pieces of Tramontina, which is an A-C knockoff similar to ChefMate (about which there is a long and enthusiastic thread). Tramontina and Chefmate are good pans, but I think they are of a slightly thinner construction than A-C. It's made in China and consequently goes for about 20% of A-C. And it works well and cleans up well.

    If that saute pan is 12", it's probably closer to 5 qt. capacity, a good size.

    You did well.

  4. Suvir --- I agree that the EH pie dishes make a more attractive presentation, all in all. I tried it in le coquelon simply to make it an even higher fruit to dough ratio, similar to doing it in a dutch oven. I think the next one will be peach, blueberry, and red rasberry, unless I can find some apricots to sub for the peaches.

  5. The Dallas Morning News ran an article this week, too. I am not sure about the other major Texas papers, but I bet all are covering this issue. It appears to be an attempt to remove some of the sugar-loaded junk food from the schools, but with some odd inconsistencies. Not exactly an Alice Waters initiative, but....

    Anyone with children effected by these changing regulations in Texas, or elsewhere?

    I am sure all states have regulations about what foods schools offer to children. Are other states doing something similar?

  6. I always look to A.D. Livingston in these matters. A.D. writes the culinary column for Gray's Sporting Journal. In his thin, but informative book on Cast Iron Cooking, he points out that "according to The Art of American Indian Cooking, the original Brunswick stew was made by the Powhatan, Chickahominy, and Cherokee tribes." The book also says that the name "Brunswick Stew" came from the British settlers at Jamestown. A.D. says the stew contained meat from small game and fowl, along with native American vegetables --- corn, beans, tomatoes and potatoes. His long, slow-cooked recipe for 8 - 10 people calls for 5 gray squirrels, 3 fox squirrels, 2 cottontails, or 2 tough pheasants, though his preference is cottontails or small marsh rabbits. He likes to fry salt pork to add flavor to this relatively bland dish, but drains off the fat. If you want the rest of his recipe, I'll send it to you, but he points out that there must be a thousand recipes for Brunswick Stew.

    Richard

  7. Suvir - I see you have moved on to bake other things. I am still on the cobblers. You mentioned the preference for a high ratio of fruit to dough, and I have found a piece that provides a better ratio than even the 12 inch EH pie dish. There is an EH piece usually called a "handled pan" in the U.S. It will hold about eight cups of fruit and has an interior top diameter of only about 7.25 inches. I baked the fruit (peaches and black plums, sliced peel on, maybe two tablespoons sugar to keep it tart, and two tablespoons flour, sprinkle of nutmeg) for thirty minutes at a little over 400 degrees to bubbling and boiling before topping with Varmit's biscuit dough. I believe the scorching hot fruit helped prevent the dough from being gooey on the bottom at the end. The best yet in my kitchen. I'll probably try one more over the next week.

    Thanks again Suvir, Varmint and Tana.

  8. Got the picture. Partly he is trying to get you to fix a problem that he is unwilling to deal with --- the dessert/salad guy. I think you can still take a consultant role with him and lay out the options (which I assume you already have), including the 10-inch-you-portion-it item, and let him choose. (Although from my personal view, I think going from artful to a slice of cake would be a mistake for a fine restaurant.)

    From his perspective he also may be anxious about reducing the size of the appetizers for fear of displeasing those who are accostomed to them. He may be so focused on pleasing customers by large portions, that he will not focus on other aesthetics or on managing employee issues. In which case there is little you can do, except not take his complaints personally.

    And if he "wants it all done for him" you have to charge him for that. One of his options. Apologies for stating the obvious.

    Richard

  9. Great thread. I am in a similar spot, so I'll be interested to hear what others say.

    I do recommend Richard Olney's Simple French Food if you are trying to learn to work without a recipe. His improvisational riffs are well written, illuminate and are wonderfully helpful. At least they have been to me.

  10. Bripastryguy --- I am not a PC, but from this consumer's viewpoint the 4 ounce size looks fine. As Mckayinutah pointed out, there may be a sales advantage in smaller portions. I have often not ordered dessert in the past due to the huge portions.

    So why not approach this by puting on your consultant hat and helping your chef-customer analyze what might prompt this kind of response from a diner, and what can be done to satisfy most (not all) of them. In other words, without becoming defensive, diplomatically explain or show him how garnish can set the dessert off aesthetically and give more perceived value. This is assuming this is a fine dining restaurant.

    Richard

  11. Jaymes - This would be a good one to add to the recipe archive if you have not already done so. I have done three or four versions, and they have all been delcioso. Thanks again.

    And yes...I know it's still summer. I just really like stews.

  12. Thanks, F-G. I have a scale on my list of cooking needs too, so I checked the price on one of their merchant links and the 3001T is under $50 shipped ground UPS. The 6001T that weighs to 13 lbs. is only $5 more. Black or white (3001 or 6001) is about $2 less. Looks like this should do it, unless someone has found something negative about these.

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