Richard Kilgore
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Posts posted by Richard Kilgore
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I had lunch at the First Chinese BBQ in Carrolton (Beltline at Josey, NE corner) one day this week. My first time at any of their locations. Ducks hanging, trays of tripe, a deeply orange-red roasted pig's head as you come in. Large black and white photos of China on the walls.
The menu is huge. It must have been six to eight pages, and much looked interesting. Each menu item is listed in Chinese characters, English and Vietnamese.
After exploring the menu for ten minutes, I asked my server what she would recommend from the BBQ section. She was very helpful, saying that she liked the roast pork and the BBQ duck, and that although the two did not come as a combination on the menu, she could create one for me. She warned me that most non-Asians did not care for these choices and preferred the chicken items. I went with her favorites.
The pork was cool, in small chunks, with a crisp, crunchy skin. The duck was warm, crisp and delicious. I was a little puzzled by the pork arriving cool, so I asked. She immediately offered to warm it up, but I said I preferred to eat it cold if that was the usual. She pointed out that they serve it cold to keep the fat crisp. Of course.
She then went out of her way to say that it is the best Chinese restaurant in the Dallas area, not like the others, and that she was not just saying that because she works there, and that it is a favorite of Chinese and Vietnamese people. I can't say, since I have not eaten in all the Chinese restaurants in the Dallas area. But she was one persuasive woman.
I'll be back.
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Okay, here's a working link to the Mountain of Hope article, kindly provided by Dai Huynh.
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Thanks for trying LDLee. The link, however, takes me to a search page, and there is a charge for searching the paper's archives.
nacho -- Thanks for the two links.
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I often do them in a Romertopf clay pot, with 10 minutes or so under the broiler at the end. Many variations of seasoning rubs. Sometimes I rub it with a good French mustard also.
I usually deal with the garlic by thinly slicing cloves of garlic, making 30 or 40 slits all over the loin, and inserting the slivers of garlic.
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Wow! Linda, that looks delicious. And looks like you do have a bit of the plating artiste in you after all.
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Good. Just wanted to make sure I wasn't about to do something I was going to regret.
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I would like to hear a little more advice on herb container gardening in Texas. Are there some herbs that can't take the heat?
The herb guru at my local Whole Foods did confirm what someone else told me --- that you can't put Rosemary and Clinatro in the same pot, because they will effect each other in such a way that their flavors will mix, with one tasting like the other. Has anyone experienced this? Any other quirky combinations? Or ones that really work well together?
Any specific recommendations for potting soils? Commercial or mix-your-own?
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It's chunk charcoal, Linda, rather than briquettes.
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I finished soaking and oiling my Rifi last week, but didn't have any ashes at the time. I now have some ashes from chunk charcoal that I can use to age my Rifi. Is there any reason that will not work? Any reason to burn wood instead?
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Finalists for the IACP 2005 Awards were announced tonight. Here are the Texas writers among the finalists.
Cookbook Awards Finalist
“The Tex-Mex Cookbook: A History in Recipes and Photos”
Author: Robb Walsh
Publisher: Broadway Books
Editor: Jennifer Josephy
Price: $17.95 U.S.
Bert Greene Journalism Awards Finalists
In the Newspaper Category:
Dai Huynh
"A Mountain of Hope"
Houston Chronicle
November 28, 2004
Robb Walsh
"Sex, Death and Oysters"
Houston Press
March 25, 2004
In the Essay Category
Kitty Crider
"Anything for Mother"
Austin American-Statesman
May 5, 2004
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I am a little late to the party, but decided to do the Short Ribs with Rosemary and Porcini. I opened a bottle of Australian Wishing Tree 2003 Shiraz. I had a sip of it and think it should do well. More to come.
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Thanks again to Nancy for spending the week with us and taking the time to respond to so many questions and comments. Thanks also to all those members who participated in this discussion. And finally, thanks to those in the wings who helped make this possible, including Dave Scantland (Dave the Cook) and Brooks Mayhew (Mayhaw Man).
Stay tuned for future events in the Conversations with Texas Food Writers Series.
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The Conversation with Nancy Nichols is now closed to new questions and comments from members of the eGullet Society, so that Nancy can respond and make her final comments today.
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Nancy, I am curious as to how you made the transition from LA events coordinater and caterer to the stars to food writing?
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Nancy, looking forward, what would you like to see in the Dallas food scene that is not there or there in too small a measure? What are we missing?
Similarly, what is missing in Dallas food writing? What is not being written about for whatever reason, that deserves to be written about?
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Thanks to Nancy and everyone who has participated in the Conversation so far.
We will continue to take new questions and comments until 1:30 p.m. CST today, and then let Nancy respond to them and make any final comments she wishes to make before we end.
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*****
This brings up another point, shall we say the opposite end of the spectrum, “avant garde” cuisine pioneered by El Bulli's Ferran Adria in Spain and by the likes of Chef Grant Achatz of Chicago’s Alinea (and previously Trio). What are your thoughts about their approach? Too serious or gimmicky? Or is it good food taken to the next level?
Elie
This question raised by Elie seemed to get lost in the ethics debate. I also wonder what you make of the culinary avant guarde and Ferran Adria? Do you think Dallas would be receptive to the dining experince provided by a chef such as Grant Achatz? If not, why so?
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Good morning one and all. I am looking forward to a "meaty" debate on the topics raised in my article. I certainly stirred a hornet's nest of public opinion, especially in the restaurant community. Thanks for asking me to this forum. Now I have a place to discuss, publicly, some of the fall out.
Nancy, can you elaborate a bit about the "hornet's nest of public opinion, especially in the restaurant community". And can you clarify what the "fallout" was from the article. The issues you addressed in your article have obviously stirred up quite a debate in the Conversation thread, but you were referring to the response in Dallas and have not had the opportunity yet to discuss that here.
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The lachamba pots are soaked and oiled and baked. Recently, I was told to simmer the la chamba pots in milk to make them even stronger.
I am getting confused as to what to do. The insert sheet that came with the la chamba pot did not mention oiling it. Just heating it in the oven at 400 F for 30 minutes 3/4 full of water, cover off, after washing with soap and water and rinsing. I have done that and now see tiny crazing in the finish. Are you suggesting oiling it, too. If so, at what point. If I simmer it in milk, at what point do I do that? Both oil and milk treatments? Is the tiny crazing normal? Like Fifi, I simply soaked the lid in water. Should I be doing something else to it, too?
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I guess the flip side of the question about pet peeve's would be what dining trends have you seen in recent years that you applaud? Any emerging trends, Nancy? What would you like to see more of?
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Nancy, perhaps we could broaden this issue a bit. What other trends (or established practices) do you see that bother you as a diner and a critic?
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I want to add a symbol that rates the noise in a restaurant in our listings.
I think that is something many people would like to see.
Perhaps an ear muff symbol with a decibel rating along side, Nancy. Or how about a one ear muff to a five ear muff rating?
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Welcome Nancy. Thanks for joining us for this first in a series of Conversations with Texas food writers.
In your article, you appear to point to two levels of inconsistency in Dotty Griffith's review. In addition to the confusing four star rating in the context of an overwhelming ratio of negative comments to postitive comments, you also focus on a glaring internal contradiction in her discussion of a single dish.
She noted that “a half-order of pappardelle with Italian sausage and pancetta wasn’t overwhelmingly buttery, but the sauce was so rich that more than a few bites of the large portion quickly felt filling, then cloying.” In the next sentence, though, she said the dish was “worth an encore.”This raises a question about the editing process in restaurant reviewing. Anyone can write a sloppy or internally contradictory piece for a variety of reasons, some of which may be out of their awareness. On the surface of it, the above quote appears to be something that an editor would question if it came from a relatively inexperienced writer. But it sometimes happens that even succesful, established writers in any field run the risk that their publishers stop providing them with solid, consistent editing support. This happens in book publishing too often.
So what level of editing do you provide your reviewers? What do you see as the proper balance between the reviewer's right to express their views and editorial responsibility?
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Cooking with "All About Braising" by Molly Stevens (Part 1)
in Cooking
Posted
That site lists them as out of stock, Linda. I have one that I picked up last year. They are made in New Zealand. It is not enameled like that the one described on that site. It appears to be aluminized steel instead. The shop I got mine from was discontinuing carrying them, and I have not seen one elsewhere.