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Richard Kilgore

eGullet Society staff emeritus
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Posts posted by Richard Kilgore

  1. I got around to doing the chocolate madeleines. Here they are with the batter in the silicon forms.

    gallery_7582_414_69129.jpg

    Cooling on the rack.

    gallery_7582_414_832064.jpg.

    And the finished madeleines.

    gallery_7582_414_289264.jpg

    They turned out with holes on the ribbed side. What do you think this was due to? The mini-madeleines got humps, but the larger ones did not. I think I should have baked them a couple of minutes longer. The dough rested and chiled in the fridge for about 1 1/2 hours.

    I will simply echo what Dorrie says in the book and what others have said here: it's amazing how chocolaty these are using only a small amount of cocoa.

  2. There has been a dramatic improvement in pastries at La Madeleine over the past year or so. A manager at one location told me they bake most items at each location, rather than at a central commissary. So Pastry-Eating-Companion (PEC) and I had breakfast at La Madeleine this morning. Not your high protein breakfast: she and I shared Creme Brulee, Strawberry Napoleon, Strawberries Romanoff and Tiramisu. Simple things for the most part well done. The top cake layer on the Napoleon was a little tough (stale?) which made for a bit of a mess when cut by PEC. The creme brulee was creamy and good, but perhaps not as flavorful as I prefer. On the other hand, PEC considers herself to be an experienced judge of Tiramisu, and pronounced this the best she has ever eaten.

  3. Thanks to everyone for pointing out the obvious regarding the Orka mitts. Although I had noticed in stores how stiff they are, the practical effects of that were not sinking in for some reason, and you have, yet again, saved me from wasting my precious kitchen dollars on unnecessary tools.

  4. There is some variability in the responses that people have to caffeine and to withdrawing from it. And we tend to get more sensitve to its effects with age. The shakes, yawning and headaches, as well as a dysphoric feeling are all symptoms related to what we now call Clinical Caffeinism. Most find it easiest to withdraw by slowly decreasing the amount of caffeine consummed daily. As others above have suggested you can try cutting it back 20-25% initially, and then another 20-25% in the next step, and so on. You can stay at one level for several days (try three) before reducing the % for the next step down.

  5. Afraid I don't know a Canadian supplier. I was going to recommend the heirloom grits from Anson Mills, since I have cooked them several times recently and they are far and away the best I have ever eaten. Ever. You would have to email them to find out if they could ship to you. Here's a thread that may interest you on Anson Mills grits, spun off a New York Times article on Glenn Roberts and his heirloom grits, polenta and other corn meal products.

  6. Yes, this is for homemade ice cream and sorbet. I just started making it in one of those inexpensive Cuisinart machines, and packed it into pint deli containers for the reason you mentioned, Rachel. I also covered partial containers with plastic, Susan, and it does help. While all this worked fairly well (actually better than I expected), I wonder if something a little heavier, thicker like the plastic containers that sherbert comes in would be better than the thin plastic deli containers.

  7. Does it make a difference what kind of container you store a small amount (say a pint to a quart) of ice cream in the freezer? Plastic deli containers? Someone told me to use something like the conatiner that grocery store sherbert comes in, which is thicker than a deli container, but where to get them? Other ideas?

  8. Plano CM is now two bottles shorter of Blood Orange. Everyone is right -- this is very tasty stuff.

    And even better news on the butter front. There are now two choices for Plugra. You can get an 8 ounce block for $3.99 or a 16 ounce block for...$4.79. I had to make sure that these were not two different qualities of Plugra, so I checked with the butter foodie on staff and she said both are the same. They have quite a selection of French, Czech, Danish and English butters as well, but she said the Irish one is "to die for". But fearing death, I took home the big block of Plugra and my refrigerator is over flowing with butter right now, so I'll have to try the Irish one another time.

    I also sampled the gelato -- the mango is great!

  9. <p><font size="2" face="Arial,Helvetica,Geneva,Swiss,SunSans-Regular">Sam and others, please take a look at these images of a new pan that we are thinking about bringing to the US that seems appropriate for this thread.  It is essentially a wok with a 5.5" flat area on the bottom.  The diameter at the top is 11" and the hieght is 4".  It will include a stainless steel grate for steaming and smoking(?).</font></p>

      <p><font size="2" face="Arial,Helvetica,Geneva,Swiss,SunSans-Regular">I would appreciate any feedback and will likely offer a special price on a pre-order basis for members here, if interested.  I haven't established what the price will be yet though...<br>

        I<a href="http://copperpans.com/Media/NewPan4.jpg">mage 1</a><br>

        <a href="http://copperpans.com/Media/NewPan3.jpg">Image 2</a></font></p>

    Is the pan ss lined copper? How thick is the copper?

    Smoking?

  10. I use a small quantity of coffee each week, so I buy 1/2 pound from my supplier, who roasted it within 48 hours of my purchase, freeze it in small glas jars (1/2 cup size), and use as needed. Works well.

    I have not frozen fresh (unroasted) beans, but people here do it all the time.

  11. From a recent Texas Food Media DIGEST entry by Raynickben:

    The Dallas Morning News: Food and Wine

    As promised it is the results of the Italian Sausage contest.  Article by Kim Pierce.

    Results.  Central Market is not going to be happy.....

    From the article

    Despite a relatively small Italian population, Dallas is wild about Italian sausage. No fewer than 11 places custom-blend their own.

    But no matter how good the individual blends might be, the legacy of Al's Import Foods — gone since 1995 from the corner of Park Lane and Greenville Avenue — still influences local tastes. The store's sausage is still held up as the gold standard in Dallas.

    Kuby's sausages have been a long time favorite of mine. What are your favorite sausage makers in the DFW area?

  12. Just say no...tactfully. "Oh thank you anyway, but I really want everyone to be able to taste the different brownies without any other flavors. Maybe next time." or "Yes (with a smile), I really prefer to serve them as they are."

    Or less tactfully, as you suggest go armed with a bottle of Heinz,"That's just fine. And I assume it wouldn't be sacrilegious if I topped your roast/casserole/brisket/whatever with a little ketchup would it?"

  13. This is a cookie that takes strong arms, strong hands and a strong pastry bag.  I made them once again as a re-test and then decided to leave them to the big boys.

    I totally agree about the stiff dough. My friend and I made 4 batches of the sable before the Christmas holiday as part of our holiday cookie box. Between the two of us, we bursted one very sturdy pastry bag and ended up with two very sore forearms.

    We added orange zest to the dough and garnished with candied orange peel. I liked the texture of the cookie and the piped cookie makes for very nice visual attraction. However, I would need some convincing before making this recipe again.

    So is everyone saying that the disposable bags are likely to burst and I need to get a canvas bag to do these? I really like the visual appeal and want to try them at some point.

  14. Not only is it worth the extra money, the extra money isn't worth thinking about. Although Logic is 50% more than standard finish, that 50% comes to all of $5 on a 12-inch skillet (through Amazon, where both are discounted. You couldn't pay me five bucks to season one of those.

    Absolutely correct. In order to season the raw cast iron I previously ran them through the oven three times for about three hours each treatment, which invovled rubbing them all over with bacon or bacon drippings. Then frying chicken in them once or twice before using them for anything that might stick. The Lodge Logic version is an absolute bargain.

  15. Your tart looks great, Alberto. That's one I'll have to make at some point.

    Seth, in trying to imagine the Savarin, I also thought that chocolate whipped cream might not be the best match for it. Simple whipped cream and berries sounds good to me. I may make this in mini-Savarins and try it both ways.

    Alberto and Seth -- this sorbet was made in an inexpensive Cuisinart ice cream maker. I would do it again with variations: walnuts or pecans, rum soaked raisins, orange or lemon zest.

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