Elissa

Why such ceaseless contention? No one criticized either restaurant for sheding or heeding traditions or promoted non-change. I have had one remarkable meal at Nobu and some spectacular hits and misses at Tabla, but I don't think of either establishment as Japanese or Indian so much as places whose new approaches were wrought here in New York so there. I was rather wondering if when foreign cuisines, or musics remake themselves on these shores they become something new. The strange case of Edmund Burke comes to mind. Not impressed by the French and their violent Revolution, Burke rather said that without prejudice all would be become, as SF put it, bland: "Those who quit their proper character to assume what does not belong to them are, for the greater part, ignorant both of the character they leave and of the character they assume."

Nope: once, in Nice granted, a bag lunch had a french baguette spliced spread with butter and loaded with chocolate that melted, foil-wrapped, for 4 or 5 hours.

Yes.

don't these dolphin fish change color dramatically when you catch and pull them from the water into your boat? i think remember one off the coast of devil's island that ran through rainbow flops on deck

The bread bar at Tabla and the sushi bar at Nobu: aren't they both American?

- Fuuddhist Psalm

Plus in Hartford you're not far from Mark Twain's house. Would have liked to have a meal there. brakeman?

DF and NT's seem to offer service and food as rejoinder. Amagansett wine over Franey's in Springs? Round Swamp fish like that of a fishing village, but smells better. More fun too than Amag Farmer's Mkt. Readymade Bonac BurgerS at the cash registers are good: Rolls with bacon and butter. Do you have Moby Dick handy? Somewhere Ismael lists whale jellies and fats, their names and how one distinguishes between. Don't the Japanese eat whale? I'd like to propose a lighthouse restaurant in the hamptons that doesn't serve whale (!) but anything else Jinmyo might want to make. Stone basements full of wine.

Have you ever noticed a dearth? Seasonal cooking must make things difficult. I like the place across from the bowling alley for striped bass. Also Tommy at the Cafe in Amagansett knows how to cook. Formerly of John's. The Fish Farm in Amagansett at sunset Arcadian. And of course the golf course cafe. Usually I suffer with goods from the farm stands. The pink piggy perhaps the best? Anyone been to the seafood place: is it Richard's?

swordfish chili and freshly grilled xxx at the fish farm up cranberry hill road in amagansett.

also lettuce not forget cream cheese / creme fraiche / chevre with smoked fishies or the most delishious Indian fish baked in yogurts How does the treatment of yogurt and cheese compare re: dairy and cooking? Do the two together ever make you wish you'd eaten something else?

oopsi: TappanZee

This evening I attempted an anchoiade. It started with just anchovies (the salted Italians, soaked in H2O then cleaned and fileted) mashed with thinly sliced garlic. Then I added some olives, splashes of lemon and evoo. Became more of a tapenade. Made a fine dinner with a bit of cheese and a glass of wine. Though prefer freshly whisked vinagrettes for salad, I do have a weak spot for Cardini's Caesar dressing and keep one on hand. Never tire of fresh pestos in the summer with basil, mint, cilantro, parsley. Adore Madhur Jaffrey's Lal chutney: red pepper, mint and almonds.

Xavier's in Piermont, just under the GWB not a bad joint. Wine list a bit limited, but of the couple few times I've eaten there the food was v. good twice. Best preceeded with a short walk on Bear Mountain and a stop in all of Nyack's used book shops.

Keep the grated parm from your fra diavolo if you wish. But can't something be said for anchovies and parmesean? Isn't this match the heart of a Caesar? Are Caesars strictly for tourists? In her Italian Food Elizabeth David writes of Sole with Parmesan, Sogliole alla Parmigiana.

I had a 1989 St. Joseph the other day that tasted like chocolate bacon. Hence my new website: chocolatebacon.com

Thanks Jim, those are they. Magnificent Japanese gardens in PDX too.

Are tourists invited?

Anyone know the gentleman and his company making whiskey and brandy and kirsch and slivovice etc in Portland? Pears in bottles, the whole bit. Amazingly good stuff that even compares favorably to Euro hooch. He has people over for tastings and tours; definitely something to which I'll drag my friends next I'm there. Or go solo...

thanks jason, lurker and vivman here's to the future of kurdish, turkish, sephardic and muslim feasts

In 1990? opened a place in NW on 23rd perhaps. Mediterranean and slamming. Still remember meals there. Young people, an oriental woman i think. Are they still there?

concurred: this 400 for 20 min recipe deelish; also good with evoo snp added somewhat later, with a hint mashed garlic, lemon juice and parsley chop. grated pecorino at the end (wartime reggiano) melts to crisp.

arent jacques pepin fille and her brand new hubby-chef (congrats) opening a new spot? and what's the cool joint down under the bridge in se?

good enough for me. somewhere i read to skin the really dirty ones so have too done that, but never use water.

The rare strip last night at Sparks: an even sear showed off the fibers and made the meat just enough done. Pretty marbliing; spinach good. Rolls actually not bad. Brought a Valderiz Ribera del Duero. $30 corkage. But unless you just klobbered and dragged your steak to your camp fire I must ask, why no bordelaise? Or chimmichurri or horseradish or something. And so much: the fellow with whom I went ate the whole thing and found himself of course uncomfortably stuffed. We both had 'Sirloins' from the menu, only that and filet were listed. Just now do I see that Wilfred mentions to ask for a double? Chocolate cake best to avoid. Faint whiff of grampa cigars in a den of swaggering Karl Malden and Gene Hackmans. While the Old Homestead's downtown meatmarket prohibition BUtterfield8 John O'Hara docks steaks may have more heart, Sparks' were seared exsqueezitely. Which Manhatta steak is the most film noir?