JFLinLA
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LA Times Food Section -- March 24, 2004
Brief summaries and links to individual articles are provided below. The LA Times posts their restaurant reviews, and some other Food Section articles, in the Calendar section on-line even though they appear in the Food section of the print edition. Further, one is required to register separately to access the Calendar section and pay a fee if you don't already subscribe to the paper.
"Delivered in an ingenious Package, it's simply the world's most perfect food." That's what Emily Green has to say about The essential egg. Find out everthing you need to know and more. For details on everything from shell color to free-range eggs to egg grades, read An egg primer. Recipes provided for Eggs Benedict, Meringue layer cake, and Spinach and parmesan tart.
Prickly, but tender at heart is Russ Parsons' ode to the artichoke (doncha just know it's spring). Russ recommends braising to transform your choke and provides recipes for Artichokes braised with saffron, black olives and almonds, Artichokes braised with green onions and sugar snap peas, and Artichokes braised with prosciutto and cream. And to make sure you prep your artichoke correctly, be sure to read Take a little more off the sides. (By the way, I hear Russ and everyone else was terrific at the Good Food event on Monday night at the Geffen Playhouse.)
There's perhaps nothing more civilized than the tradition of afternoon tea. Valli Herman says that the swanky Peninsula Hotel in Beverly Hills does it just right in A tender scone, a spot of tea. She provides recipes for The Peninsula's currant scones and Fresh, seasonal fruit tarts.
While everyone is worrying about wine, David Shaw is obsessing about wine glasses in A delicate case of glass warfare. Apparently there is a battle going on between wine glass makers Riedel and Spiegelau.
The Wine of the Week is 2003 Warwick Estate Professor Black Sauvignon Blanc.
In Culinary SOS, Cindy Dorn provides the recipe for the Waldorf salad from the Edendale Grill in Silver Lake.
S. Irene Virbila raves about the new Patina at Disney Hall in Still ahead of the curve. In downtown LA, not West Hollywood, Angelenos are staying out late despite our reputation as an "early-to-bed" city. She gives the place 3 stars and recommends the caviar service, pickled beet and orange salad, sautéed foie gras, Maine lobster and artichoke fricasse, wild salmon with melted leeks, braised veal cheeks with parsnip purée, cote de boeuf for two, caramelized apples with Linzer dough, chocolate crème brûlée with peppermint sorbet. However, the private chef's table and 6-course chef's table menu sounds appealing too.
In Restaurant Journal Leslee Komaiko says chefs are "going wild for undomesticated greens." Clementine in Century City has set off a rush for more "high-end bakery-sandwich joints." Border Grill in Pasadena is closing, changes at Citrine and Mis opens in West Hollywood.
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I'm not speaking from personal experience here but my friend who makes her own fish every year buys the fish already ground. There's a place she calls, tells them what mix of fish she needs and the amounts and she shows up and gets the various types of ground fish, heads & bones in another bag, and even ground onion if she wants. She claims that you can't grind it up as well at home. Besides, that saves a lot of time. I've tasted it and it's great. I can dig up her recipe if you like.
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There's a small part of me that wants to buy one but I'll try to restrain myself.
Aw shucks, c'mon. I think you owe it to yourself and to us to check this out. Clearly it is pure research, right?
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My mother's Passover "noodles" were indeed julienne omelet. Although she might have added a smidge of matzo or cake meal for body.
My first experience with kosher l'Pesach imitation noodles some years ago was disastrous! Dropped them into the soup and they disintegrated ... only evidence that I had put them in? White "powdery" goop on the bottom ... this year I see they have reinvented the concept ... a few wheat pastas now available ... me? I'll do without pasta for the full eight days, thank you!
My MIL makes Passover noodles from eggs and potato starch. I suppose I'll have to learn how.
Grandma Yetta (z"l) told me stories of being a little girl in Poland and carrying the cholent pot to the town baker on Friday afternoon (I guess). Each of the townspeople would leave their pots overnight and retrieve them on Saturday afternoon. At least that's how I remember the story.
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Anybody know anything about a place called Bread & Porridge on Wilshire Boulevard around the city line between LA and Santa Monica? I was driving by at around noon today and noticed a large crowd gathered out front. Sort or reminded me of the crowd I often see hanging out at O'Groats.
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LA Times Food Section -- March 17, 2004
Brief summaries and links to individual articles are provided below. The LA Times posts their restaurant reviews, and some other Food Section articles, in the Calendar section on-line even though they appear in the Food section of the print edition. Further, one is required to register separately to access the Calendar section and pay a fee if you don't already subscribe to the paper.
No celebrity chef would be caught dead without a website. Regina Schrambling provides The dish on chefs' websites and tells which ones worth a darn as opposed to those that are only shameless self-promotion. Web addresses for web sites of some of the better-known chefs as well as a recipe for Cucumber, crab and mango hors d'oeuvres.
Chocolate and meat? Remember when most people thought that was strange? Well now most people have at least heard of mole, even if they've never tried it. Barbara Hansen's article Chocolate and spice tells all about mole -- where it came from, where it's going, some favorite places to sample mole around LA, and a long detailed recipe to make mole poblano for the really adventurous.
Moving beyond cerveza lite is David Lansing's reminiscince of the month he spent living in Mexico this past fall. Find out everything there is to know about Mexican beers.
Culinary SOS provides the recipe for eggplant tapenade from EM Bistro on Beverly Boulevard.
Susan La Tempa has gone bananas . . . and mangoes, papayas, pineapples and other tropical fruits in this article A passion for the tropics. While the exact fruit may vary from season to season, tropical fruits are available all year round. Recipes for coconut cupcakes, Pineapple mojito, Candied papaya parfaits, and Macadamia-guava tea bread with tropical fruit salad.
The Wine of the Week is 1995 Bodegas Muga Prado Enea Rioja.
For the ultimate control freak: cook-it-yourself is by David Shaw. He discusses the trend of restaurants where diners cook their own -- everything from fondue to Korean barbecue to shabu shabu. But, the trend leaves David cold.
In this week's review, With jazz that swings and steaks that sizzle, S. Irene Virbila profiles the grill and jazz club Vibrato. Before we get to the food, this is apparently where all the jazz aficionados in town are hanging out. Located at the top of Beverly Glen and partially owned by musician and record company owner Herb Alpert, she gives the place one star. Recommended dishes are Oysters, grilled lamb chops, Kansas City steak, pounded veal chop with mozzarella and tomato sauce, braised spinach, half and half (fried onions and potatoes), warm bread pudding, and Dr. Bob's ice cream.
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I think we need an eGCI course on this.
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In a related lemon curd question, can you use it between cake layers? How well or how long will it hold up? Will the cake get soggy?
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Can you also post a photo?
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Depending on your viewpoint, Langer's has the best or second or third best pastrami in the world. It's at 7th & Alvarado, only open to 4 pm, closed Sundays. Just ask for the hand cut pastrami on the excellent rye bread. There's actually an entire thread about our visit to Langer's on this very board! With photos.
Langer's -- Yum!
eG Lunch -- Fun!
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Long story short: Cooking is fun!
Well, most of the time it's fun.
But really, it's my creative outlet.
It's (usually) for the people I love.
It's a way for me to stay in touch with family traditions, teach them to my kids, learn about other traditions, and create new traditions.
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LA Times Food Section -- March 10, 2004
Brief summaries and links to individual articles are provided below. The LA Times posts their restaurant reviews, and some other Food Section articles, in the Calendar section on-line even though they appear in the Food section of the print edition. Further, one is required to register separately to access the Calendar section and pay a fee if you don't already subscribe to the paper.
Hot Maple Drive chef Eric Klein likes to serve up the Flavors of Alsace whether he's cooking at home or at his restaurant. Bring your Riesling and Russ Parsons will fill you in. Read to the end of the article for recipes for Choucroute and Apple Tart. If you're going to make the Choucroute, you will need to know Where to find the sausage and sauerkraut.
In his accompanying article, Russ helps us in Appreciating Alsace's many charms. This is about the wine from the region which Russ insists is wonderful and reasonably priced. Read to the end of the article for information on the best of the Alsatian wines Russ and crew tasted.
Come here often? It's more than a line in this Susan La Tempa story about restaurants and their regular customers. Find out what the customers get and how the restaurants benefit.
Donna Deane says to Make them a sandwich in this article about what to do when you're tired of winter fare and spring has not yet fully sprung. Not just any sandwich, these are "salad" sandwiches but with a twist. Find recipes for Curried chicken salad on nan, Egg salad sandwich with dill, and Dungeness crab salad sandwich with Meyer lemon.
In Culinary SOS, Cindy Dorn provides the recipe for Chocolate pecan caramel tart from the Napa Valley Wine Train.
The Wine of the week is 2002 Fairview Estate Goat-Roti from South Africa.
"Have you ever gone to a restaurant with someone who behaved in a way that embarrassed you? Yeah, me too." That's the opening of David Shaw's Matters of Taste column, The rude, the bad and the ugly. Restaurateurs are reluctant to talk about rude customers by name but David got them to share their favorite stories of badly behaved customers. This one is funny.
In the Counter Intelligence column, Charles Perry says to Come for the kibbe and stay for the ghreibeh in this profile of Lebanese restaurant Yasmeen's in South Pasadena. The best dishes are lamb kebab, kibbeh, chicken shawarma, chicken kebab, chocolate cake.
A globe-trotting chef lands in Santa Monica is this week's review by S. Irene Virbila. It may be loud, ultra-hip, and have a hunk at the velvet rope at the door checking names. However, the food is good and getting better at Cinch, the four month old hot spot in Santa Monica. The globe-trotting chef is Chris Behre. She gives the restaurant 2 stars and recommends the sushi items, tempura roll, tataki of Wagyu beef, sweet corn soup with shrimp and lobster oil, seared scallops with roasted Jerusalem artichokes, soba noodles with twice-cooked pork, roast pork stuffed with dates, grilled aged rib-eye, Fuji apple pie, s'mores.
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During my undergrad days at Cal we used to head to Oakland for this sort of thing. That was a really long time ago.
Go Bears.
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I think their tasting menu varies. When we were there last summer I had the tomato menu and it was great. Of course, it's hard to go wrong with fresh tomatoes in August. It even included a tomato dessert but I did have them substitute something else.
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The pile of hamantashen I brought to the office are almost gone already. I made these last afternoon/evening using a double recipe of the yeast dough I posted in the eGRA. Here, I've got poppy, prune, raspberry, blueberry/cheese, almond, apricot & pecan/caramel. For the kids at home, I've left some almond, pecan/caramel, chocolate using nutella, and raspberry for the one kid that eats fruit. Both kids packed some in their lunches for today. I've got one more piece of dough in the fridge which I'll finish up some time this week with poppy (home-made filling) for my husband when he finishes the batch I made him late last week.
The ones made from the cookie dough recipe for the carnival were a big hit . . . as always.
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Chris -- Downtown! You were downtown and you didn't call! I could have been your assistant! Honest, I don't take up much space.
Just kidding. This sounds great and I look forward to reading your article and seeing your pix.
Jody
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About a year and a half ago I "upgraded" to the 6 quart with the all metal paddle. Prior to that I used the 5 quart regularly with the enamel paddle. While there was some slight "chipping" at the top where it attached to the mixer, the rest was fine . . . and I used it lots for close to 15 years! For the various complaints about KA, their customer service is supposed to be fabulous. I'd call them. First, they can tell you how to adjust your "planetary action." Secondly, they might just send you a new paddle for free.
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Oy, how many are you planning to make? The Judy Zeidler recipe I gave you easily makes 5-6 dozen of the smaller size (~3" disk of dough before folding).
[How many? Like I should even raise an eyebrow -- the leader of the "assembly line" producing 700-1000 in under 2 1/2 hours, plus the dozens I make for me.]
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LA Times Food Section -- March 3, 2004
Brief summaries and links to individual articles are provided below. The LA Times posts their restaurant reviews, and some other Food Section articles, in the Calendar section on-line even though they appear in the Food section of the print edition. Further, one is required to register separately to access the Calendar section and pay a fee if you don't already subscribe to the paper.
California East, by S. Irene Virbila, profiles the new New York establishments from California's own Thomas Keller and Masa Takayama. It also tells about the Time Warner Center at Columbus Circle which, it seems to me, is a mall for foodies. In addition to Keller's Per Se and Takayama's Masa, it has a 60,000 square foot Whole Foods Market and will soon have eateries from Jean-Georges Vongerichten, Gray Kunz and Charlie Trotter. There already appear to be three threads going on the New York board talking about this. Click here to chime in on or find out what they are saying about Per Se, or here for Masa, or here for Jean-Georges.
No time to become the wine connoisseur you hope to be? Never fear. Corie Brown suggests getting a Personal Wine Wonk. That's "A knowledgeable wine merchant who specializes in highly personalized service knows just the questions to ask to lead you by the hand to find exactly the right bottle for the dinner you're making. Or the party you're attending. Or the gift you're offering." The good news is they're easy to find in the small, neighborhood wine stores around town. The article provides a list of six such places from Pasadena to Santa Monica.
In a letter commenting on a previous article, Carolynn Carreno chimes in on the whole leaf lettuce debate in The whole Caesar story. A recipe for Original Caesar salad is provided.
In Cookbook Watch, Russ Parson's reviews Antonio Carluccio's new book "The Complete Mushroom Book." Read Inspired eye for the fungi which may just be "fungi-porn." Recipes for Pappardelle with porcini, Mushroom tortilla, and Pickled mushrooms in brine.
A nod to bouillabaisse diplomacy is David Shaw's Matters of Taste column. Before Frances Mayes brought us "Under the Tuscan Sun," Peter Mayle spent "A Year in Provence." In an effort to reignite interest in the region, tourism officials from Provence sent four of their best chefs to Los Angeles. Find out about their visit, food from the region, and a recipe for Scallops with celery root gratin.
The Wine of the Week is 2000 Chappellet Old Vine Cuvée, California.
In Counterintelligence: China, Linda Burum says to go to Mission 261 in Pasadena for "serious Hong Kong-style eating" including delicate trompe l'oeil dumplings (you gotta see the pix of these) and sumptuous deep-fried pigeon.
After Crate & Barrel, Gruyere and Emmenthal is S. Irene Virbila's review of Morels French Steakhouse at the Grove. She says that despite it's hokey decor and shopping mall location, it "may still be worth a visit." She gives the place one and a half stars and recommends the raw oysters, fondue, French onion soup, moules à l'aneth, baby spinach and smoked duck salad, porterhouse steak, grilled yellowtail, sautéed spinach, baby new potatoes.
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I've got a recipe that's just matzah, butter/margarine, brown sugar and pecans. Never had a problem with it.
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When all is said and done, I hope you'll post pictures.
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Here's another thought -- Blueberries on the bottom on top of the crust, then the white cheese cake batter, then a strawberry topping. Though I like the other idea with the white chocolate better.
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Every year I have the same thought -- why on earth am I making yeasted dough? they are so hard to pinch closed! I pinch and pinch and pinch -- last night, while the first two dozen were in the oven, I pinched and twisted the rest -- twisting the pinched ends and tucking them under the cookie. I get so frustrated when they don't turn out perfectly. Any hints?
I dip the tips of my fingers in a little water, shake most of it off, then run them around the edge of the circle of dough, then pinch. I'm sure it violates some rule of pastry chefs but the moisture helps glue everthing together. You could use some egg I suppose but this is easier.
Not Jewish and I don't think I've ever had hamentashen although I made tri-corner hat cookies with almond filling for Christmas this year. Anyway, all of the wonderful posts have made me want to try making some real hamentashen. I know I read somewhere on here about the shape when using a yeasted dough, but I can't seem to find that part now. Are the yeast ones still triangular with an open bit in the middle?Yes. The shape is what makes hamantashen, regardless of the type of dough.
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We had a lovely dinner at Joe's last August when, for a very few days, both kids were away. Great food, relaxing, no attitude. Never been to Josie's. Haven't been to Chinois in many years but I think Joe's would have a more relaxed feel . . . if that's what you're going for.
Passover 2002–2005
in Food Traditions & Culture
Posted
Oy vey. Pass the neurosis.
Actually, I remember as a kid going to my grandmother's house. She had remarried after my grandfather had died and she, her numerous step-daughters, along with my mother were in a whirlwind of activity in the kitchen. There were tables set-up zig-zagging in the dining room and living room. There were my 2 brothers and my boy cousins. My cousin Laurie and I were the only girls and, except for my brothers, we were the youngest. I remember mostly hanging out underneath the kids table with Laurie while the boys did their best to torment us though we did come up to the table for the Four Questions and other high points. For the second hand-washing, Grandpa would disappear into the bathroom for a very long time. Only years later did I figure out that the ladies had already prepared enough packages of afikomen for each and every kid. They hid them during this long bathroom break. After returning them to Grandpa later in the evening, we never received our reward that night. I seem to remember him at our house some time after Pesach, spinning quarters or Kennedy half-dollars on the floor which was our payment.
I'll be making Grandma's farfel muffins which is how I remember her most this time of year. I'll be making lots of other things too. I probably got my love of cooking from her.
I hope Elijah visits your home and that you all find the afikomen.