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Andrew Fenton

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Posts posted by Andrew Fenton

  1. Leaving aside carcinogens, it's hardly ridiculous to want to avoid charring your food. What makes grilled food taste good is the browning, from the Maillard reaction. Charring comes from overheating the food (from exposing it to open flame, etc.), and it doesn't taste so good: a little bit is fine, sure, but who wants a carbonized burger? A technological fix to prevent charring sounds reasonable enough-- though I'd rather buy a less expensive grill and rely on technique instead.

  2. Just remembered another exception. In Rome, Da Franco ar Vicoletto (in the San Lorenzo neighborhood) has a seafood lasagna, with cheese and shellfish:

    gallery_7432_5075_20303.jpg

    The restaurant calls itself "Piccolo Molise", but I don't think that this is especially characteristic of the region. Could be wrong, though.

  3. When we eat in Trastevere we go to Paris or Antico Arco, which is on the Gianicolo.

    Antico Arco is absolutely worth going to. Walk home afterwards and you can work off your meal.

    I'm not crazy about Trastevere; there are a ton of tourist traps, and after a year of living nearby (in Monteverde, just up the hill), I never found anything all that great. Still, Dar Poeta makes a good pizza. So does Ai Marmi (on Viale di Trastevere), but the really good dish there are the fagioli al fiasco.

    In Testaccio, my favorite restaurant is Antico Forno (via Amerigo Vespucci), which is a simple, no-nonsense Roman restaurant. Their homemade ricotta is out of this world, and I really like their trippa alla Romana and coda alla vaccinara.

  4. What a clever idea, Peter! Something like a cross between planking salmon (which I love) and parchment cooking- and it's gotta be cheaper than buying those cedar planks. I'll have to keep my eyes open for appropriate veneers, and give this a try.

  5. Unfortunately, I'm not going to make it out to Shady Brook Farm this weekend. But scrounging from orchards is a great idea. We're planning to go fruit picking a couple of times this summer; I think I'll call ahead and find out if any of these places will sell me some wood scraps.

    Otherwise... I kind of agree with this sentiment:

    Those 10# bags of hickory or mesquite available at Lowe's may be relatively pricey, but they make up for it in convenience.

    Did I mention how small my garden is? A cubic foot of wood is about all I can really justify. So if the orchard thing doesn't work out, I'll try ordering something cool from barbecuewood.com.

  6. Seems like the only advantage-- other than personal preference, of course-- of serving rice pudding cold is that it firms up. Warm rice pudding always has more of a porridge-like texture. Which is good, too, especially straight from the pot.

  7. I confess, I knew that there were some serious smokers on the PA board, and I was hoping that y'all would reply. I wasn't disappointed; those are some great suggestions! I'm not totally sure yet how much I'll need; a cord, or even a quarter of a cord, sounds intimidatingly large. But these are some good places to start.

    And JohnnyH: I'll be waiting for my invitation to your BBQ... :wink:

  8. This place really is terrific. The soup dumplings had some texture issues-- a couple were torn, a crying shame-- but the filling had this amazing, rich, meaty flavor. And a bowl of noodles with roast duck were great. I'm looking forward to a return.

  9. After moving from an apartment to a big-kid house, one with a backyard garden and everything, I did the only natural thing: buy a grill and smoker! My induction into the Ancient and Secret Order of Smoked Butts came this weekend. After certain handshakes, Latin chants and unspeakable rituals (everything being unspeakable at 6:15 AM), I fired up my rig:

    gallery_7432_3413_31728.jpg

    Yes, I called it my "rig." At this point, the wife started rolling her eyes. What does she know, the unbeliever? I'd convince her later; as you can see here, however, the small creature who shares our house was much more impressed. Clearly she has impeccable tastes.

    Anyway, the butt (brined 24 hours in salt, water, and a little eye of newt) went on the smoker at 7 AM. Maintaining a constant temperature of 225F was not without its challenges: the various spells, incantations and openings and closings of the damper were met, at times, with massive fluctuations. Eventually things seemed to reach an equilibrium and at 10:00, I left to pick up some supplies at the store.

    Returning, I found a horror show: the temperature had spiked to 280! With curses on Vulcan, Pele and Agni, I closed the damper and opened the chamber briefly to cool things down. I thought I had things under control at that point, but those curses seemed to jinx things: the temperature started dropping, and I couldn't stop it. Opening the dampers, adding more coals... nothing worked. To make matters worse, it started to rain! Eventually, at noon, the temperature dipped to 190 and I gave up the struggle. My butt would have to languish in my kitchen oven.

    Which worked fine, actually. After a couple of hours in the oven, my butt was ready to show to the world:

    gallery_7432_3413_100236.jpg

    gallery_7432_3413_149780.jpg

    My contribution to the world of pork porn! And delicious, too.

    At this point, I'm at the "lessons learned" stage of things. And I'm wondering: what made the temperature drop like that? The rain might have played a part. I think, too, that I may have choked the coals a little: there was a LOT of ash in my firebox. I suspect that I may have added too many coals and wood chunks. Next time, less of that, and more fiddling with the damper! But I'd like to hear any insights y'all might have.

  10. I need to make a more concerted effort to get over there for the Friday lunches.

    Ditto. There's really no excuse for me not to be there all the time!

    Anyway, I made two trips-- roast lamb (yum), moussaka (good, but cold-ish. that's the one problem with the festival: insufficient heating), spinach pies, loukoumades a-plenty, gyro, dolmades, and lots of cheap retsina. Opa!

  11. Thanks for adding your two cents to the shrimp and grits pot! That more or less confirms my suspicions about the dish. In a way, it's a little bit like the Italian equivalent, polenta, which as I understand it, wasn't often seen in restaurants (certainly fine-dining restaurants) until recent years. Even now, it's a very homey dish. Oh, and this

    he best dishes I've had, though, have been in private homes.  Savannah has a far richer history of great hospitality in homes than in restaurants, FWIW.)

    is very true in my experience as well.

    I don't know that I agree about Johnny Harris. I love the place, and it's worthwhile to go just to see that cool dining room (and imagine the glory days of fifty-sixty years ago). But the food is only okay. Though I give them credit for serving barbecued lamb; I've never seen that outside of Kentucky.

    I'm rather flabbergasted that Philadelphia has a "Geechee Girl Cafe."  For those in my particular neighborhood, "Geechee" is a pidgin dialect -- very difficult to interpret sometimes -- of English and at least a couple of African dialects, and very specific to Southeast Georgia.  Is there a menu available on-line, and would the foods be mostly recognizable to a coastal Georgia native?

    Here's the menu. It goes beyond straight-up low country cuisine, though the influence is clearly there, and my understanding is that many of the dishes are based on the chef's family recipes. They also regularly have special dinners that feature a more specific cuisine. I haven't eaten there in a couple of years, though we have plans to go next week. Looking forward to it.

  12. The St. George's festival is back! This weekend: Thursday through Sunday, if I'm not mistaken. Normally I'd skip work on Friday and get lunch, but I've got jury duty. Stupid civic obligations! Ah well: that leaves more than a few other times for me to stuff myself silly with loukoumades...

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