JAZ

I'll leave aside the point that a true gimlet is made with gin and just concentrate on the lime juice. It's long been my contention that a gimlet is made with Rose's, and only Rose's, but I've been to some high end restaurants (and read about others) that feature gimlets made with fresh lime juice and simple syrup, with the implied reason that fresh lime is "better" than Rose's. I'm not sure where that idea arose, but I think it's a perfect example of over-refinement. I've never seen a gimlet recipe in a cocktail book (and I have more than a few) that calls for fresh lime instead of the Rose's, although a squeeze of fresh lime is a welcome addition. Besides, if Rose's is good enough for Philip Marlowe, it's good enough for me. PS: Ellen, what's this about two versions of Rose's? Is one a premixed gimlet that contains alcohol? If not, what's the reason it can be sold in liquor stores only? Granted, liquor sales in California are decidedly more liberal than in New York, but I've never seen or heard of two versions of Rose's.

This should get you there. the beginning

As is obvious to anyone who's read my column on The Daily Gullet, I use the first person exclusively. But that's because I tend to write about the personal aspects of cooking. Overall, I'd have to say it depends entirely on the subject, the writer, and the approach. Think of the difference between Harold McGee's two books -- On Food and Cooking and The Curious Cook. A first person voice in the first would have been really strange, but it's completely natural in the second, because that book is more informal and more, well, personal. What I tend not to like is the intrusion of a first person voice at the end of a piece that's written "objectively," with no personal voice, for 9/10's of the whole. Then it's jarring to me.

Thanks for the opportunity to experience Paris and the Cordon Bleu vicariously. I look forward to future glimpses into the stage life. PS The description of your tuna dish is making me salivate.

JAZ, would you mind posting it? That sounds great. I'll have to get it from my mother, but as soon as I do, I'll post it. I'm going to experiment with a balsamic version.

Starwberries and balsamic are such a good combination, I imagine that a jam made with balsamic would be great. My mother makes a freezer version of strawberry jam -- with less sugar and a shorter cooking time, it always tastes much fresher than the usual type. But you do need freezer space to store it.

As far as I know, distilled spirits aren't damaged by heat, or at least not by temperatures that you'd reach outside the oven. Sunlight is a different story. Just as prolonged direct sunlight will fade the color of fabrics, it will also affect the color of brown liquros, lightening them up gradually. So keep those bottles out of the sun, but I wouldn't worry about the heat. (Vermouth and other lower alcohol aperitifs, on the other hand, should be kept cool.)

I've done this sort of thing a few times. For example, a very good friend of mine used to cook Easter dinner every year. One year he had just moved into a tiny studio apartment and had left almost all kitchenware behind with his ex. So we had the dinner at my apartment instead. I knew all the guests, though, so it wasn't as if I was serving total strangers. At my friends' parties, I tend to end up in the kitchen "helping" (read "doing most of the cooking") but I often prefer that to hanging around with nothing to do.

Oops. I copied the recipe from the wrong file. (No, wait -- it was a test to see if anyone was paying attention. You passed.) The amount of mustard is a tablespoon (Dijon type). This gives a pretty strong mustard flavor, but I find the salad ingredients can stand up to it. Fee free to use less if you're not a mustard fan. For the record, I've corrected the recipe in the archive. And thanks -- I'm glad you liked the article.

Lamb kebobs marinated in lemon juice, olive oil, garlic and rosemary (used the rosemary branches for skewers) Rice and bulgar pilaf with dill Turkish carrot salad (grated carrots dressed with a yogurt/cumin/mint dressing) Tzatiki with pita bread to start

The significant other of a friend of mine is so awful at restaurants that I won't go out with them anymore. I've only eaten out at restaurants with her three times, but each time, she sent at least one dish back. Here's what happened at the last dinner out: She ordered a vegetable spring roll appetizer and an entree of halibut or salmon, but the fish was paired with with some kind of bean puree, which she didn't want. So she asked the waiter to substitute "some other vegetable" for the beans. Anyway, the spring roll came and was beautiful (and good too). I'm not sure why she didn't like it, maybe because it was fried. She divided it among the rest of us and asked the waiter for a simple green salad. So her salad arrived when the rest of us were practically done with our starter course. She ate about half of it. The entrees arrived and hers came with some roasted root vegetables. Now, obviously, the vegetables were meant to go with a meat entree -- they seemed to be tossed in a demi-glace. Well, on the one hand, she doesn't eat chicken or red meat and the vegetables weren't particularly well suited to the entree, but on the other hand, she already requested one substitution and didn't specify what sort of vegetables she wanted. So, I don't know, if it had been me, I'd have just eaten the fish (which she said was excellent). Instead, she called the waiter over to check on what was on the vegetables. When she found out, she asked him to remove them and just bring the fish back with some lemon wedges. So then, apparently, the fish was past its prime, because then she bitched about that (to us, not to the waiter, merci a Dieu) and finally just asked for it to be put into a container to take home. Now the problem is that her SO keeps asking me to meet them for dinner and I have to keep making excuses. But no way am I going to a restaurant again with her.

I also would say cardamom or coriander, but if your market doesn't have cumin, it may not have those spices either. As Suzanne mentioned, cinnamon may be the way to go; just doen't overdo it. Or allspice, again in small amounts.

Suzanne: TC Boyle did write at least one food story...I heard it on"Stories on Stage" on NPR a couple fo years ago. A brilliant, funny, tender piece about a chef and a food critic. I would be grateful if anyone could tell me the title. And I am with you about Trillin. Funny, but never forced. Maggie, I asked the same question in a previous thread (I didn't even know TC Boyle was the author -- you provided that information) and Suzilightning came up with the title: "Sorry Fugu," which is apparently reprinted in T.C. Boyle Stories. I read it first in Harper's Magazine and loved it.

This is similar to my coleslaw, except my dressing is a lot less complex - usually just rice vinegar and canola oil, with a little sesame oil for flavor. Yours looks much better; I'll try the next time I make slaw. Well, that's the official version. If I don't have all the ingredients, I use what I have. The hoisin is essential, though, I think.

Celery Root Salad with Ham and Gruyere Serves 8. 1 medium sized celery root 4 green onions 8 oz smoked ham 6 oz Gruyere cheese 1/4 c minced parsley 2 T minced dill Dressing 1 T lemon juice 1 T red wine vinegar 1 T dijon style mustard 1 clove garlic, minced 1/2 c olive oil salt and pepper to taste Peel the celery root and julienne. Blanch in boiling salted water for 1 minute. Drain and plunge into cold water. Drain and dry. Place in a large bowl when cooled. Cut the ham and cheese into thin julienne. Thinly slice the onions. Add ham, cheese, onions, and herbs to the celery root. Meanwhile, whisk together the mustard, lemon juice, vinegar, garlic, salt, and pepper. Add the oil slowly, whisking, until thick and blended. Gently toss the salad with the vinaigrette. Adjust seasoning. Keywords: Salad, Intermediate ( RG331 )

Quesadillas with Smoked Turkey and Roasted Red Pepper I usually make these as bite-sized miniature quesadillas, but it's faster to make full sized quesadillas and cut into slices. For a dip, increase the sour cream by about half, spread in a baking dish and top with additional cheese. Bake for 15 minutes at 350 degrees. Do not overcook or the sour cream will curdle. 1 c diced smoked turkey (or chicken) 1/3 c green onion, chopped fine 3 c shredded jalapeno jack cheese 1/4 c diced green chiles 1/3 c diced roasted red pepper 2 T minced cilantro 1/2 c sour cream 1-1/2 tsp ground cumin 1 tsp chili powder 1 tsp salt (or to taste) 8 to 12 flour tortillas vegetable oil Mix all ingredients except tortillas and oil, adding additional sour cream if necessary to bind. Using a 2-1/2 or 3 inch pastry or biscuit cutter, cut out rounds from tortillas. You should get six to nine rounds from each tortilla, depending on size. As they are cut, keep rounds covered with plastic wrap so they don't dry out. Place a tablespoon or so of filling off center on a tortilla round, spreading it out slightly, but leaving a small margin at the edge. Carefully fold over other side, forming a half circle shape. Repeat with remaining tortilla rounds. (Can be made ahead to this point. Place on a baking sheet in single layer and cover with plastic wrap. Refrigerate until ready to cook.) Heat a large skillet or griddle over medium heat and brush generously with oil. When hot, add quesadillas in single layer. Cook one minute or so, until golden brown. Turn and cook other side another minute or until filling is melted (if quesadillas have been refrigerated, they may take slightly longer). Remove to plate. Brush pan with additional oil between batches. Keywords: Hors d'oeuvre, Appetizer, Easy, Tex-Mex ( RG330 )

Here's my recipe for an Asian-style cabbage and pepper salad. Asian style coleslaw

Spicy Asian Coleslaw Serves 6 as Main Dishor 8 as Side. The dressing for this salad is spicy, but not particularly hot. Add more chili paste for a hotter salad. For a more substantial salad, add shredded cooked chicken or grilled shrimp. 3 c shredded red cabbage 3 c shredded white cabbage 4 green onions 1 red bell pepper 1 green bell pepper 2 carrots Dressing 2 T hoisin sauce 2 T soy sauce 1 T plum sauce 1/3 c rice vinegar 1 tsp Asian chili paste 1 T sesame oil 1 T canola or grapeseed oil 1 tsp fresh grated ginger 1 T brown sugar To garnish 1/2 c chopped cilantro 1/2 c toasted cashew pieces or chopped almonds 1 c crsipy chow mein noodles Thinly slice the green onions. Seed the peppers and cut into julienne. Peel and julienne the carrots. Mix all vegetables together. For the dressing, whisk together all ingredients in a bowl until combined (or shake in a jar until mixed). Pour two-thirds of the dressing over the vegetables and toss to coat. Cover and refrigerate 4 to 6 hours, stirring occasionally. The cabbage will release some liquid. To serve, drain the excess liquid from the salad and add remaining dressing if necessary. Add the cilantro, nuts and noodles, toss gently, and serve immediately. * If you prefer a crunchier salad, dress right before serving instead of letting it rest. Keywords: Salad, Hot and Spicy, Easy ( RG329 )

Meyer lemons have thinner skins than Eurekas, are much sweeter and are more fragrant, with a hint of orange blossom in the scent (the Meyer lemon is thought to be a cross between a tangerine and a lemon). They tend to be smaller and rounder than Eurekas; the skins are smoother and slightly on the orange end of the spectrum. They're not as durable to ship, so you don't see them in markets as often, but they grow well in Northern California so around here, many people have their own trees.

It's never a waste to infuse vodka. Seriously, Meyer infused vodka is a great thing. Haven't tried to infuse rum.

"Non-yeasted?" What's the leavening, then -- baking powder? Are they like a light textured biscuit? I realize you can't post the recipe, but I'm curious about the the general method. Edit: never mind -- I'll check the recipe archive.

Well, after you've removed all the zest, you have to do something with the juice, right?

Salad of roasted beets, blood oranges and blanched beet greens in a champagne and orange vinaigrette. Chicken roasted on a bed of sliced potatoes and onions, sauced with a reduction of cabernet, balsamic and chicken stock finished with butter. To drink, an 83 Gigondas (hence the red wine sauce for the chicken).

Gremolata. Minced garlic, parsley and lemon zest.

I find that the flavor of Meyer lemons comes through best in relatively simple preparations with minimal cooking. Meyer lemon curd is great (if you're using a recipe for regular lemons, remember to cut down on the sugar). Lemonade with Meyers is wonderful, as are Lemon Drops and Margaritas. For savory dishes, try using Meyer lemon juice in a beurre blanc or a hollandaise, or aioli.