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jmacnaughtan

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Posts posted by jmacnaughtan

  1. I wouldn't say that I've mastered lemon curd, but at least I can whip up a good one using three different techniques, and have learned how to adjust tartness and mouth feel pretty well. The people I give it to all seem to enjoy it, which is most important and satisfying.

     

    In an earlier post, you said  "To make it even better, add a touch of gelatin when it's hot, leave to rest overnight then whip it up.  The gelatin makes it freeze stable, so you can use it in a bûche or entremets."

     

    Is that similar to a chiboust?  In any case, I don't know what chiboust, bûche, or entremets are.  However, I do like the idea of using a curd for other recipes, and have just started looking at how these recipes can be used in tarts.

     

    It's not really similar to a chiboust- it just makes the lemon curd that much lighter and creamier.  A chiboust is always lightened with Italian meringue and set with gelatin.  A vanilla chiboust is traditionally used to make a Saint-Honoré.

     

    An entremet is, essentially, a mousse cake.  You have a cake or pastry base, a mousse to act as the body and at least one insert to add a new flavour and/or texture.  This is assembled in a cake ring or mould, frozen, then unmoulded and finished.  This is an example of a complex entremet, but they can be much simpler.

     

    A bûche (de Noël) is a Yule Log.  Traditionally it's a rolled sponge, filled with buttercream or ganache, then decorated to look like a log.  Modern ones are made like entremets using a half-cylinder mould, giving chefs much more flexibility about what they put in them.

     

    The whipped lemon curd works beautifully as an insert to an entremet or bûche (like this one, second down), or to fill a tart.  The chiboust is much lighter, and could be used in the place of a mousse or to fill a tart shell.  Or, even better, use lemon marmelade, lemon curd and lemon chiboust for a tart.

  2. I always add my butter at the end, after the curd has been removed from the heat.  That was one of the riffs on the recipe that I used. 

     

    In addition, to keep things simpler, I used three whole eggs instead of two yolks and two whole eggs.  Anyway, I like making curd with whole eggs ...

     

    That's what I tend to do as well.  I already have more than enough egg whites kicking round the freezer without generating any more.

     

    Now you've mastered lemon curd, you could take it up a notch and make a lemon chiboust- adding gelatin to the hot egg/sugar/lemon mixture once cooked, incorporating the butter and while warm folding in an Italian meringue.  Works beautifully in a lemon tart.

  3. Thanks for the push to making the curd in a saucepan directly over the heat.  I made a small, personal batch this evening, riffing a little from this David Lebovitz recipe: http://www.davidlebovitz.com/2009/12/improved-lemon-curd/ .  The curd was completed in ten minutes, start to finish (including measuring and prepping the ingredients), and it turned out pretty well.  I'll definitely use this technique in the future.  I like the simplicity, the speed, and the easy cleanup ... perfect for spur of the moment curd.

     

    That looks like a pretty reliable recipe.  I'd still add the butter after- you get a stiffer, more spreadable and manageable consistency when you blitz in cold butter rather than cook it all together.  Otherwise, it can tend to be a little gloopy.

  4. Agar is used completely differently, and gives a completely different result to gelatin.  Unfortunately for you, there are really no other gelling agents that give the flavour release and melt-in-the-mouth texture of gelatin.

     

    If you're concerned about the ethics of it, I'd recommend abandoning gummy sweets and switching to chocolate.

    • Like 1
  5. By definition, a brine contains salt.  If you want to get the cider flavour into a chop, you could reduce some cider and inject it.

     

    I'd probably just cook it normally and make a cider sauce.  Much less effort, and the cider flavour will almost certainly be more pronounced than just soaking the raw chop in it.

  6. Maybe I'll give that a try when making the next batch. It'll make cooking the curd a little simpler.  I've always used a double boiler - that's how I was taught.

     

    Double boilers are fine if you have the time and are scared of curdling it.  Some recipes actually call for boiling the juice, sugar and egg mixture, but I really don't like the texture you get from that.  Take it to 80°C, strain and let it cool to about 40°C and blitz in the butter (lots of butter), and you're golden.

     

    To make it even better, add a touch of gelatin when it's hot, leave to rest overnight then whip it up.  The gelatin makes it freeze stable, so you can use it in a bûche or entremet.

    • Like 1
  7. Hi everyone,

     

     just a quick question about swiss meringue,  since the sugar and egg whites are being cooked over a double boiler, is it really nessary to dry the piped pieces in a oven?  Could you possible just pipe and leave at room temp. overnight?

     

    I only ask because I am making decor pieces for the buche de noel.   Any insight would be helpful with production work.

     

    Matt

     

    Cooking it over a water bath is more about dissolving the sugar and pasteurizing the whites.  You really need to bake/dehydrate them to get a crisp result.  Otherwise it'll just be like an Italian meringue, but with a leathery crust and no shelf life.

  8. As far as I can tell, the recipes are the same but the technique differs.  From what I've read in Greweling's book, for piped you pour the cream over unmelted chocolate, mix, leave to cool then agitate, and for slabbed you use melted, tempered chocolate and pour it directly into the frame.

     

    However, there are people around here who know a lot more about this than I do...

    • Like 1
  9. I'd recommend using something fairly stiff, like marzipan or gumpaste.  Put a bit in each cavity (enough to fill, not much more), cover it with parchment paper and roll a rolling pin over the top.

     

    Otherwise, you could pour tempered chocolate in for solid pieces.  There's no way that 31°C will be hot enough to damage it.

  10. I recommend doing a bûche de noël.  If you choose not to do a traditional rolled one, you can make the cake, mousse and insert(s) using whatever flavour you want.  Just make a long bûche, freeze it solid then cut off the length you need and glaze it.  They look spectacular as well.

     

    Philippe Conticini's ones look pretty good this year, if you need inspiration...

  11. A simple pound cake (quatre quarts) with good quality organic butter (Spring Hill) and freshly milled flour (Sonora from Grist & Toll).

    It was a bit dense but the flavor was excellent. I enjoyed it with some quince jam and a cup of tea.

     

     

     

     

     

    Looks good.  If it's a bit too dense, I think it's because your batter is too firm.  Try softening the butter a little more before incorporating the other ingredients, it might help.

  12. I thought this would belong in this thread.

     

    I picked up a monkfish liver today, and it reminds me a lot of foie gras.  It's also pretty big (the knife on the right is 12").  I'm just going to sauté it with butter, then make a sauce with cream, garlic and parsley, served with parsnips.

     

    Monkfish liver.jpg

     

    Well, there's a first time for everything.

    • Like 1
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