ajay

I have second hand reports that suggest the new restaurant has not yet found its mark, but alas no direct experience. The one other thing that struck me is that apparently Chef Bouley is handling the desserts himself. Last I heard, he has not yet found a new pastry chef to replaces the great Mssr. Yosses (sic.) [i thought the "sweet pleasures" dessert was among the best in NYC]

Stu, Thanks for the list of l'astrance menu items. If ordering a la carte becomes necesarry, which items would you suggest as providing the best examples of the kitchen's skill and which are the most interesting/unusual?

There is some information scattered about the various threads, but I thought it would be useful to concentrate basic, useful informaiton into one thread. For example, as I understand it, a service charge is included with the price of all? menus and dishes. What is the custom of additional tipping? In NYC, requests for ice (tap) water are generally accepted and filled without problem or adverse reaction on the part of the staff--especially at the top places. Is it customary to order bottled water in France? If so, would not ordering bottled water send the wrong signal to the waitstaff and result in a poorer experience? (Here i seem to recall Bux saying he believed his experience at maisons de Briecourt was diminished because he did not order an appertif). There's also a discussion about how language barriers can impede the quality of a meal. Opinions on this front would also be welcome. Finally Seve KIc has posited the notion that mentioning a chef's cookbook may potentially earn the diner a better experience. Are there other strategies to enhance a restaurant experience?

I'm very pleased to report that I have managed to secure a lunch reservation at l'astrance for my upcomming trip to France!! If it were up to me, I would force everyone at the table to order the surprise menu (menu l'astrance) but given the fact that one of my party is a vegetarian, I have to face the fact that the restaurant may not be able to accomodate my desire to have this menu and my mother's dietary requirments (no fish chicken poultry etc, but she won't make a big deal about stocks). Therefore, I would grateful for suggestions on how to best maximize the experience while pursuing an a la carte strategy. I am glad to hear that only speaking english will not be a problem at l'astrance. However, we also plan to dine at several three stars and I wonder if anyone can comment on the relationship if any between lack of french and diminished treatment at Troisgros, Arpege and Gagnaire. Also, because of the vegetarian, ordering strategies, especially at Troisgros and Gagnaire would be much appreciated. Finally, (and yes i realize this post is now way off topic) we have an open day of dining in Lyon and Paris (dinning in Paris would, however, either preceed or follow a meal at a three star or l'astrance so something on the lighter side is sought). Some suggestions about good, traditional food would be welcome. Also, if anyone has info or an opinion on Goerges Blanc's bistro establishment in Lyon, it would be welcome.

I have got to asK: what is carbonic masceration? How does it differ from normal masceration (sic)?[as you can tell i'm not familiar with the wine making process...]

Suvir, I eagerly await your compilation of reviews.

Christopher, We've heard several indications that if one orders a wine and then does not like it, it is the customer's responsibility to suck it up (or down, as it were)--unless the wine is grossly misrepresented by a sommelier. On the other hand your post on the champaigne thread suggests that Grammercy Tavern will accept such a bottle back (i assumed it was without charge). What is the restaurant's policy? Generally, I wonder why restaurants, especially at the higher end, are not more explicit about their policies in this regard. SInce we're on the subject, I once ordered a half-bottle at CB, and found it was not to my liking, and the captain graciously replaced it...I had always thought this was the norm rather than the exception...

In our house, weekend foods include things like bateta puwa (potatoes and rice flakes?) uupma (rava), which is a form of cream of wheat. Dinner items usually tend towards "junk" foods like bhajia (i'm not sure if bhajia and pakora are the same or if not what the subtle differences are) especially methy but all vegetables. Pav Bhaji is also a favorite. Other dishes include khandvi, and thali dhokra. Foods like idli and sambar, staples of south india are likely to be consumed on weekends in our gujrati household.

Salaam Bombay definatley sounds worth a trip...thanks for the tip...i'll report back when I go.

where is salaam bombay, and what kind of food does it serve?

Suvir, Your post is very intruiging...I hope you will speak more on desserts made from chikcen lamb and venison; I 've never heard of such things. I recall having burfees (I'm really not sure about the proper transliteration) made from fruits and cahsews and hulvah made from carrots, but even here, the sugar overwhelms all of the subtelties of the dessert. (Come to think of it, high sugar levels permeate gujrati cooking, but that is a separate thread.) Also, you mentioned "cakes" as Indian desserts. I would very much like for you to elaborate on this point. I never thought of cakes as being Indian at all. I always assumed they, like all breads made with yeast, were recent imports from the west. How much of these assumptions are sheer ignorance, I confess, I do not know but I eagerly await any knowledge you care to impart.

Why does one want ice crystallization on their cider? and what is the proper amount?

I just realized that aside from kulfis, I have never really seen the incoroporation of fruit into many indian desserts. I wonder why that is.

I have to say that as an individual of Indian (gujrati) origin, I also don't find much in Indian desserts to reccomend them. Almost all of the sweets made or consumed by my family are cloyingly sweet. Examples include Jaleebi and hulvah. I do admit, however to having occasional cravings for kulfi (a sort of ice milk) and goolab jamum. But these desserts are not as interesting or multifaceted as most european/american desserts. In the interests of full disclosure, i am in no way familiar with Indian haute cuisine or all of the dishes outside of the gujrat reigon, so the desserts may exist and I could just be ignorant. I eagerly await the opinions of the experts.

Despite the danger of sounding ignorant, I must ask what people mean when they suggest that salt (i gather in large quantities) can be used to bring out the deep flavors of a dish? I seem to recall reading such a comment in an article discussing the cooking of Christian Delouvier of Lespinasse

I'm faced with a conundrum: during our time in the provinces, it is realistically only possible to visit either troisgros or veryat in megeve. Given the fact that the party inlcudes a vegetarian, and cost of the meal (though the same doesn't apply to logging) is no object, some reccomendations would be much appreciated. I have read the kobe beef (though no one in the party eats beef, for religious reasons) and frozen truffle threads, but would like anymore information on Troisgros and haven't been successful in finding much on Veryat. A table has been requested at Gagnaire and a reservation obtained (over the phone) at Arpege...tomorrow i try my luck at l'astrance...

I take it, then, that Msr. Bouley has not had trouble obtaining top quality supplies. Trouble with suppliers nonwithstanding?

I take it then that Steve P, Bux and Cabrales would dispute the fat guy's characterization of Arpege's food: As for the food, I've not been impressed by what I've tried, much of which had the consistency of baby food without any of the explosive flavors that the three-star promise requires. [from ]http://www.fat-guy.com/article/articleview/88/] I read Steve P's description of his meal with interest, but the fat guy has me feeling a little uneasy with the choice of Arpege...

Given the information on tasting menus, which I would very much like to try, I'd love to tell the vegetarian to take a hike, but alas, I cannot do that to my mother. My budget is large for this trip, but my time is short--I will be in France for a total of seven days, but figure that we will need to allocate at least one day for jet lag, leaving only six days. My time has tenatively been apportioned as follows: three days and nights in Lyon and vicinity and the remainder in Paris. We have no problem in taking long trips in search of meals--I'm wondering if a trip from the Lyons area to either Georges Blanc or Jean Michel Lorraine ( i don't know the name of the establishment) would be in order. I've been to Paris once before, but have never eaten haute cuisine in France before. I have read the post on Arpege with interest, but without any information on Gagnaire, it's difficult to decide which i would prefer. I tend to prefer innovative cuisine, but i think that's because I define all of the haute cuisine that I have enjoyed in New York (primarily ADNY Lespinasse J-G Cafe Boloud and GT) as innovative and not classically oriented. Earlier this afternoon i attempted to call Troisgros but got a busy signal...am i too late to reserve places other than l'astrance and gagnaire?? Any other sage advice is welcome.

A family emergency forced me to cancel reservations at the newly reopened Bouley. I'm told they don't even begin a la carte service until Friday, but I am wondering if anyone has been, and would care to share an experience. Alternatively, I am also interested in the thoughts of fellow egulleters on how Bouley will stack up against the fine dining establishments in the city. Also, will Bouley have the same staff as the old Bouley Bakery? If the staff were the same, would the restaurant count as 'new?'

I have just confirmed plane tickets for March 15 to Paris. I've been considering two to three blow-out dining experiences. Based on information gleaned on these boards and other places, I am thinking that i would like to eat at Gagnaire Troisgros and Arpege (alas, bras and veryat are closed until april). Are there alternatives others would reccomend? However, one member of the party is a vegetarian--would this be a problem at any of these establishments? The vegetarian refuses to eat any meat or seafood (dairy products are ok). Is one place better suited for her than others? Second, none of the members of the party speak french. Will communications with the staff, and ordering present a problem? Finally, and perhaps most importantly, what is the appropriate process for making reservations? SHould one phone first (even though i don't speak french) or e-mail? WOuld staying in the inn at Troisgros improve the odds of acquiring a table? Also, is it possible to commute between Troisgros and Lyon in a day, or is that pushing it? Thanks for the speedy replies

Steve (Plotniki), Do you have any special techniques for "separating the wheat from the shaft?" If so, do tell. Does the Craft Bar pruport to have the same mission as the restaurant? If so, what precisely is the difference between the two establishments? Do they allow you to sepcify at the Bar how you expect the food to be prepared??

I'm a bit confused by the terminology used here. What precisley does it mean to say something tastes "gamey?" I ask because the term has often been used to describe the tast of venison, which i'm sure no one would mistake for grouse pheasant or squab.

Fat guy, what would you consider a compelling reason to order the tasting menu?? Would the reccomendation of the waitstaff be sufficient--because almost everyplace i've been, they reccomend the tasting. I concluded a light dinner at Babbo and found it to be quite simply the best Italian food i've had in the Big Apple, and one of the better restaurant values (where value is defined as the relationship between what you pay for and what you get) in the upscale category. I sat at the bar, and contrary to my other experiences, the meal still began with an amuse--a chick pea bruschetta that was simple and competent. It was mainly a study in the contrasting textures of the bread the chickpea and some olive oil, though there were some spices present. I proceeded to the lamb's tongue vinigrette with hedgehog mushrooms, peccorino cheese and a quail egg. This being my first experience with tongue, I can't comment on it in relation to other preparations, but I will say this dish was amazing! The contrast in textures (tongue, egg, cheese and mesculin) was fabulos, and the dish was unctuously rich. I can see how that might be a turn-off to some, but it suited my mood quite well. Next came the signature mint love letters, which are raviolis (8) stuffed with mint and ricotta? (i forgot to ask) bathed in a sauce of tomato and lamb sausage. My first impression was that the dish was in fact spicy--the moniker was no affectaion. In my opinion, the level of spice equalled that of several of the "hot and spicy" dishes at Grand Szechuan. The mint love letters were a revaltation about how tasty and seductive the combination of lamb and mint can be; i'd never understood this combination before, but all I can say is wow! this is a dish i will dream about for some time to come. The meal concluded with the choclate hazelnut cake with hazlenut gelatto and some candied orange peel. Again, i believe this rendition subtly elevated itself from the sea of mediocre "chocolate attacks" available in this city. I could actually taste the hazlenut. the chocolate was thick and bitter--without being unbearable and retaining a bit of sweetness. All in all, i was quite impressed with Babbo and plan to go back. The tasting menus looked like great bargains, but the dishes didn't sound as interesting to me. Has anyone actually had experience with said menus and wine pairings?

I was hoping someone could clarify a couple of points: 1. Where is Sugiyama located? 2. Is it difficult to get a reservation--esepcially at the sushi bar? 3. How much more expensive should one expect an exemplary meal to run?