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Dakki

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Posts posted by Dakki

  1. Do Mexicans leave much of the matrix in when making manteca? It's so much browner and more flavorful, with more bits floating in it, than regular white American lard.

    My Mexican neighbors render lard and sometimes it is separated so the clear fat that cools into the finer white lard is saved to use in pastry and the rest is cooked longer so it has a sort of "roasted" flavor. This is the stuff that is used to cook carnitas and other meats, poultry, etc.

    This sounds about right. The lighter stuff with little pork aroma is called "manteca blanca" (white lard) while the browner stuff with its stronger smell is just plain "manteca."

    In Andalucia they also use "manteca colorada," which means red or colored lard and is flavored with paprika (thus the red/range color) and spices.

  2. I don't think Taco Bell is imitating Mexican food at all: after all, I'm told the TBs in Mexico City specifically push the product as American food.

    They were in Mexico City from I think '92 to '97, then reopened with a single restaurant in Monterrey (my hometown) in '08 only to close again a year later. I wasn't aware of them the first time around but my impression for the second round was that they were hoping to cater to USA business travelers by placing the restaurant on the road to the airport.

    I might be misremembering but I think one of the financial magazines rated opening those restaurants in Mexico one of the 101 dumbest business decisions of all time.

    EDIT: Anyway, they're not in Mexico anymore.

  3. Based on the number of times I've set off the smoke alarms when sautéing over high heat, I'd say it's pretty clear that I'm exceeding the smoke point of something in that pan, anyway!

    Not directly related to the smoke point per se, but is it possible some of the most volatile components in a fat will vaporize at a lower temperature, producing "smoke" below the "smoke point"?

    This would have some (probably minor) effect on the temperature of the pan as well, if it's correct.

  4. I was taught 5:1 "good" olive oil:vinegar (and the joke about being a spendthrift with the oil and a miser with the vinegar), except for balsamic vinegar, when the ratio should be 3:1. Now you have me wondering if one should vary the ratio according to the oil being used as well. Bacon fat emulsions seem to soak up quite a bit of vinegar before achieving the desirable tanginess for a vinaigrette, for example.

    'Course it also depends what's in the salad. And in certain climates, an emulsion with bacon fat isn't a practical proposition in the first place...

    When it's a simple green salad (a single variety of lettuce) with a classic vinaigrette, my taste falls in at the "very little vinegar" end of the spectrum, relative to either 1:3 or 1:5. I think people who quote ratios are aiming at scientifically pure emulsions, but in the kitchen I want to eat my food, not paint it.

    I suspect that's about right. Getting the balance of flavors right is much more important than the stablest emulsion possible.

    BTW, chop some bacon, fry it crisp, remove to drain, wilt some dark greens in the drippings, set the greens aside, then give the drippings a generous shot of vinegar, a little prepared mustard and a generous amount of pepper. Mix it up, scraping the pan until the drippings emulsify and toss everything together with some croutons and blue cheese.

    Bachelor cuisine at its best.

  5. What to use neutral oils for ? There's a convention that good salad dressing is all about good oil; another convention says salad dressing should be an emulsion of 3:1, oil:vinegar. Your favourite and mine, doyenne of French food in the UK Elizabeth David poo-poo'ed that last, firmly in the good-oil camp and suggesting just a very little vinegar.

    I was taught 5:1 "good" olive oil:vinegar (and the joke about being a spendthrift with the oil and a miser with the vinegar), except for balsamic vinegar, when the ratio should be 3:1. Now you have me wondering if one should vary the ratio according to the oil being used as well. Bacon fat emulsions seem to soak up quite a bit of vinegar before achieving the desirable tanginess for a vinaigrette, for example.

  6. Tuna noodle casserole and this one dish (can't remember the name) that's basically tuna, white sauce and sliced green olives, with maybe some canned green peas, generously peppered and served over toast. Yeah I must've lived in a trailer park in a past life.

    (Also I think both of those dishes are better with chicken).

  7. 24th ANNUAL ROBERT E. LEE MEMORIAL CHILI COOKOFF AND CHILD BEAUTY PAGEANT

    Shalmanese: CHILI! Getcher chili right here!

    Attendee: That smells mighty good. Say, I ain't seen you here last year. Where you from?

    Shalmanese: (as he pours out a bowl) San Fran- *cough* *cough* Dallas.

    Attendee: Dallas, huh? Lets see what BIG CITY chili tastes like! (accepts the bowl and tastes, looks surprised) My, that's good. I can really taste the spices.

    Shalmanese: Ah, that's because I toasted and ground them right before putting them in the pot-

    Attendee: (Defensively) What's wrong with spice mix from the K-Mart?

    Shalmanese: Well, fresh ground just tastes better, you just said so yourself-

    Attendee: HELP! I'M BEING OPPRESSED BY AN ELITIST!

    I'm kidding, of course.

    I suspect the recipes linked in your original post are a rough approximation of the actual competition chilis, which use the somewhat more skill- and labor- intensive fresh broth, toasted and freshly ground spices, and probably a "secret ingredient" or two to make them competition-worthy. That's pure speculation on my part so take it with as much salt as you want.

  8. I should know better than to post this, but...

    Chili -does- belong to a different world of cooking to the stuff we (usually) talk about on eGullet. Like casserole, the dish itself resists overrefinement. (I think Heston Blumenthal made a mess of it in that sense with his perfect chili. We made his recipe once, going to great trouble to procure the Indian chiles he used. The dish was good, but it was not chili). Then, there's an ugly strain of reverse elitism that pervades popular culture in the USA. Chili has been embraced by righteous Real Americans as their native cuisine and any attempt to to tart it up with duck broth, freshly ground exotic spices and Kobe beef or whatever will produce hoots of derision from the crowd as an attempt to turn their patriotic, gun toting, Confederate flag flying dish into liberal heathen ethnic frenchified haute cuisine *spits*.

    For the record I like pouring it into a bag of Fritos and my brother was local champion for a couple of years. :smile:

  9. Thread necromancy!

    Started watching this last night, starting with the Medieval episode. I really like the idea of using the techniques and equipment of modernist cuisine (or whatever we're calling it this week) with obsolete recipes, and I've enjoyed Heston's (Sir Heston's? Mr. Blumenthal's? Chef Blumenthal's?) In Search of Perfection and Kitchen Chemistry. I think inviting a bunch of B-list UK slebs who are (probably) unprepared to appreciate the food wasn't the wisest choice.

    About this episode in particular, the pigeon pies looked doable (if difficult, at least for me), and the dessert was the cleverest bit. The guests' reaction to the lamprey was the most cringe-worthy moment in the show. (In comparison, the Latvian fishermen came out looking good - so did the football fans who tried the pigeon pie).

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