Dave the Cook

My guess is that would depend on how good you've been this year ← To whom? It's not yet too late to start kissing up.

That is one of those things that I do not want to know. ← While living in the first house I owned, a tiny movement caught my eye as I pulled the chef's knife out of the block. I peered down the slot and saw the unmistakeable silhouette of a cockroach, his wiry attennae twitching in the shadows. There was one in the cleaver slot, too, and another where the steel lived. I'm not a messy cook, nor a poor housekeeper. The house had been infested before we got there, it turned out -- not just roaches, but powder post beetles and some kind of water bug the name of which escapes me -- everything but termites. We moved shortly thereafter. This was 20 years ago, and thinking about it still gives me shivers.

I've done this. I've also used smoked sausage, or a combination of ham and sausage. I've never seen anything other than these small hocks. They do a decent job for the task at hand, and they're so cheap that I never really considered the value proposition. But the real question is, where do you find foreshanks? I want to try this.

Sorry! I went away for a while, but I was not idle. I had to take a few days to get the rest of the house in order. Here's a quick update; I'll elaborate this weekend, and provide some pictures. But first, thanks to everyone for hanging in there. - I lost my chance at the worktable. Or maybe I never had a chance. Anyway, it's in the living room, and already loaded with books. Back to the drawing board. - The ceiling is probably doable, but I can't put the household through it. It would involve removing a 6' x 12' cage of 2'' x 4"s and sheetrock, as well as some electrical work (for some odd reason, the fluorescents are switched in the dining room on the shared wall). I realize patience is a virtue here -- part of the trade-off for a tiny budget -- but I can't afford the disruption. It's a good project, but one for another day, considering how much more I can get done, and how much sooner I'll have a workable space, if I avoid this temptation. I will, however, take down the aluminum grid, and hide the bare fixtures with some kind of decorative cover. - The floor is going in on Saturday. - Undercabinet lighting on Sunday. With any luck, I can wire them into the fixture over the sink, so they'll all work off the same switch. Also Sunday: cabinet knobs and pegboard. The tool chest is turning out to be elusive, so I'll mount pegbpoard all the way down the wall where the chest was going to go, and bide my time. The chest is the least of the necessities, and I might find that I can work without it. - I located a 14 x 24 x 72, 4-shelf Tabco rack at a cool place called Restaurant Solutions. Tabco is almost an exact knock-off of Metro, right down to the 1250 pounds-per-shelf capacity. At $108 (new), it was a litte pricey, but it will work as a pot rack and utility shelf, and finding Restuarant Solutions was worth it. Excellent people, great inventory, and good prices (9-inch springform pan for $8!). I'll be spending a lot of time there. - I have a line on someone who's redoing their laundry room and has some Mill's Pride base cabinets in white. Since this line is still in production, I could add matching pieces to make my worktable. Once I know what's in the offing, I'll draw up a plan. Expenditures so far: $108 for shelving, $20 for primer, $50 for tile, $18 for tile adhesive, $20 in miscellaneous tools and supplies, $85 for undercabinet lighting, $8 for pegboard. Total: $309. I've got a question about knife storage. Where's the best place to put them for safety and accessibility, and what kind of storage strategy would be best? Another question: who's going to give me a new red KitchenAid for Christmas?

In my experience, nearly everything is better with an egg on top.

The point of giving the hocks a long head start is to have a well-developed stock before you put the peas in. Yeah, it's a longer recipe, but it's unattended time, and I think it gives a heartier result.

Has Frog Commissary fallen out of favor? I've never been to one of their catered affairs, though I went to Frog once somewhere around 1982, and was quite impressed. I'm on my second copy of their cookbook, having worn the first one out.

I simmer them for an hour or two, then remove them before adding the peas. When the soup is almost done, I remove the meat and throw it back into the pot.

Jack's right that this is technically a gratin. But I'm guessing the chef is after that brulee-like snap to the top. I also agree with Jack that sugar is not likely to work from a taste perspective. What about a potato chip (crisp for the English among us), cut to size and deep fried, then laid on top at the last minute? If your serving dish is too big for a single slice to cover, a layered effect might work -- or maybe you could try creating your own Pringle-type chip from pureed spuds.

Same here (thanks, Monica). The article is very, very nice work. We're all proud of you.

Well, if my ceilings had glitter, I'd just replace the fan with a mirror ball and call it done. That's a pretty compelling endorsement. I've had both laminate and tile counters, and never had a problem with either, so I suppose a lot of it has to do with 1) what you learned to cook with; 2) what kind of cook you ended up being; 3) your tolerance for "imperfections," or, I guess, your definition of imperfections. And I'm waiting for fifi to register an opinion here, as I think she's a laminate person. Right now, I'm leaning towards a red laminate top with an inset tile or granite area. Partly, I'm thinking about the point when I have to change out the rest of the counters. I will always be able to afford laminate. But if I can afford granite or maple for the big runs, replacing the work table top as well won't be that much more. You're right about the ceiling, Susan. But whatever happens with that won't change what I do about the counter. I can measure and get the top ordered while I explore the upper atmosphere. I used to have access to huge amounts of redwood, intraining. It's really amazing and beautiful stuff.

The more I think about it, the stranger this ceiling thing seems. For instance: -- the top of the light "box" is finished in that "cottage cheese" (andiesenji's term; Usually I hear it called "popcorn") style. Why do that if you're going to cover it up with a dropped grid? -- the ceiling in the adjacent room is eight feet -- the same height as the top of the light "box." -- there's nothing above the kitchen that accounts for the dropped ceiling. The room above has same floor level as the rest of the upstairs. So I'm almost convinced that this is an entirely cosmetic (and stupid) modification, as several of you have suggested. I'm sure this has been keeping everybody up nights. In the absence of blueprints, is there any way to prove this other than cutting a hole in the light box and looking? And if it turns out that there's another ceiling in there, what do I do? If not, for sure we're looking at some sort of track or monorail lighting for the far side of the worktable. Or, given that the existing fluorescents pump out plenty of ambient light, maybe I can do something stylish with two or three mini-pendants over the table? As for the table itself, I'd like to go a round or two about the best surface. I know it's well-trod ground, but it's always fun because we never settle it. The choices are: granite, butcher block, ceramic tile, laminate. So far, we're doing well enough on budget that I think any of them are possible, though as always, any money saved goes towards replacing the range. Please discuss.

With the trend towards massive cast-iron grates on gas cooktops, the responsiveness that people like about gas has actually given way to slower heat-up/cool-down periods. Something like a DCS, though it has a higher energy output, isn't much faster to get heat to the pan than a good electric, and it retains a lot of residual heat as well. Luckily, you can always move things off the burner. I'm amazed at how many people overlook this possibility.

Rather than add a bookcase to the back, I'm thinking I'll add on to the end with something maybe 24"w x 34"h x 12 d. This will let me extend the work table another foot, as well as provide some support for a somewhat oversized top. (Would a drawing help here?) I won't be able to get all of my cookbooks in there, but I can put the essentials in it. I like the idea of setting the backside up as alternative or additional eating space. I'm still investigating granite vs. wood. (If we had an Ikea here, the wood would be hard to pass up.) The worktable itself really just needs sanding and painting. It's a very sturdy piece that my parents had custom built about 40 years ago. It's in two parts: the base, which is what I want to use, and the top, which is a bookcase of the same width. The interesting thing is that the bottom of the bookcase is actually the top of the cabinet, so that when you take the bookcase off, the cabinet is topless, making it about 34". I'm six feet tall, so this is almost an ideal height. I like stainless knob with white cabinets, too, but I think red is essential for this application. marie-louise, I have exactly the same question about the ceiling. There is a room above the kitchen, but it has a level floor. So why make part of the ceiling 7 feet, and one part eight? Ductwork is the answer that came to mind, but it's an odd solution for a problem like that. I'll see if I can find out anything else. The lights do cast shadows on the existing counter, but 1) they're not too harsh, because the sources are widely arrayed; 2) undercabinet lighting will soften them even more. But I do expect a problem with the worktable. I need a plan to get light onto the surface from the other side. I wish I hadn't sold my Dremel when I gave up building model cars.

The cabinets are done: This is also a good illustration of the next problem, which is the lighting. The main lighting comes from above a suspended aluminum grid. Here's a closeup with the translucent panel removed: and another: The rest of the ambient light comes from a 42" ceiling fan: Here's how they lay out over the floorplan: As indicated on the layout, the grid has a total of eight four-foot fluorescent tubes. THis representa formidable amount of light. Given the proposed floorplan, do I need to add more light? If I do, where and how? Speaking of the floorplan, I might have found my worktable: It's 48 inches wide, 18 inches deep, and 35 inches high. And it's free.

Oops. I forgot those pesky Kelvins. Thanks.

Right. But obviously, a proportional figure would make more sense; the difference between 250 and 225 is 10%, but between 450 and 425 is about 5%. I found that some things worked better at a lower temperature, but some improved greatly by leaving the oven hotter. In the end, it's like any other piece of equipment: keep it clean and calibrated, and practice, practice, practice.

Thanks for volunteering! I'd start the class with a simple side-by-side comparison. It will require you to have baby back ribs twice in short order, but there are worse fates. Heat the oven to 325 F, no convection. Sprinkle salt and pepper on the ribs, and put them, meat side up, on a rack in a shallow pan. Roast them for an hour and a half, turning and rotating every 15 minutes. Consume. Now repeat, but drop the oven temp to 300F and turn the fan on. Note the difference in the finished product.

I think any of these grid systems will work equally well as wall organizers. To me, the most appealing thing about pegboard as a solution (especially if it's painted) is the homage to Julia Child and her green wall o' holes. It's not a commentary that everyone will understand, but I like that sort of thing. Against the yellow wall, though, I think white is the correct choice for color. (Good idea, Richard, but after stripping the wallpaper, I'm done with that wall.) I'm with Steven on the need for a pot rack. I've been living without one for several months and it makes me crazy. The question is where to put it to that makes the most of the space without compromising utility more than absolutely necessary, and that's what drove the rack solution. Of course, mouting the rack against the wall would have pretty much the same effect. The other question is where to put the lids. One idea I had was to use these wall-mounted vertical wire racks. Comments? I've replaced individual tiles before. There is a technique to it. But I'll look into painting, too. On and effort/reward basis, painting might make more sense. I'm off to paint the cabinets, and I'll take some pictures of the ceiling and make some measurements, like how big that lighting grid is, and where the fan is in relation to the work and eating spaces. Thanks again, everyone. This has been really helpful. Fifi, I bought the tiles on the spot.

Lou Jane Temple is a member here.

This is a great idea. I was wondering where to put my indispensible reference cookbooks.Metro shelving: I've loved this stuff since I set hands on my first rack in 1975. (Wait. Did I say that right?) But I don't think it's strong enough to withstand the pounding and whacking to which I'm likely to subject it, and those tiny feet will either bounce around too much, or dig into my new floor. Having said that, I do see a potential use for this stuff. We keep forgetting about the 7-foot ceiling. A traditional pot rack will have to be very carefully situated to protect my head and preserve what's left of the sightlines in the kitchen. So I'm thinking about an 18" x 24" x 72" metro unit that would go between the wall and the new counter. A shelf could go at the very top, and another mabye 24 inches below that. It would be a two-story pot rack. Is that stupid? I agree that this stuff is easy to find, not just at kitchen outlets, but office furniture liquidators, too. This would cut the table down to five feet, but I'm glad to trade it for better access to pots and pans without fear of head injury. A six-foot piece figures to be pretty hard to get, anyway. And if I look for pieces to work with Hal's bookshelf idea, I've got a lot more flexibility. I've located two Re-Stores that aren't too far away. I'll check them out just on principle. I'm still up in the air about the top for the worktable. I know of a couple of stonecutters in the area, and I'll drop by and see if some sort of remnant (or hell, a cistom-cut piece) is a possibility. On the other hand, at the price, Hal's birch top is almost disposable. That picture shows the cabinets after priming. It's already clear that this was the right thing to do. I think they'll need two coats of paint. I'll do the first in the morning. The red/white concept is taking hold. First, it will work nicely with the pale yellow walls. Second, it gives me an aesthetic hook. For instance, those flowered ceramic accent tiles on the backsplash (they're blurry, but you can see them every few columns in a single horizontal row all the way down the wall) have got to go. I can replace them with a few bright red tiles pretty easily. The drawers and cabinet doors don't have pulls, but now I know what to do about that -- no pulls strikes me as unsanitary, anyway. I'm really liking this combination of utilitarian industrial and retro diner. Fifi (or anyone), what's your policy on finishing/sealing VCT? I called a guy that sells it, and he said five or six coats of good old floor wax. Is that better than polyurethane? It also happens that the new toaster (purchased separately, without my input) is red. Another omen.

Gas produces water vapor as a byproduct of combustion. Unless you have a convection oven, that water has nowhere to go. This makes baking and roasting less predictable than they are in an electric oven, and can make it harder to produce a good crust on these items. (On the other hand, some moisture in baking can be beneficial, and can actually promote crust -- breadmaking is a good example. The point is the predictability, since water generation will vary with temperature, altitude, oven contents and burner efficiency.) For me, the choice isn't between gas and electric, it's between convection and conventional. Vapor generation from combustion is nothing compared to the ability to circulate heated air in a controlled manner. Infrared broilers can be either gas or electric. For any given temperature, hot air rises at the same rate, regardless of how it was heated. Attendant vapor might make some difference, but in the end, you can't beat physics.

I'll be checking of course, but this is a condominium built in 1979. No basement, no crawlspace, not even an attic to speak of. I had the same thought (the right dresser would work, too), and spent a good part of the afternoon wandering through flea markets, crappy antique stores and furniture clearance outlets. Most of the ones I found were too low or too shallow. The rest weren't wide enough. The 2' x 6' space is perfect, and I don't want to give any of it back if I can help it. But I'm sure it's just a matter of time before I come across the right thing. I'll start checking thrift stores and yard sales tomorrow. As for the top, I'm thinking half granite or granite tiles, half butcher block. Any thoughts here? Let's talk pot racks. Unless I come across something at a yard sale, I don't see paying an outrageous price for a piece of nicely bent sheet steel and single-purpose hooks. Any reason I can't cobble something together from steel tubing and heavy-duty S-hooks? Or even a two-foot section of braced, ventilated shelving? Oh, one more thing: at one of the places I was at today, I noticed a few boxes of vinyl composition tile in a dusty corner. I got a chill, remembering Maggie's checkerboard vision. Sure enough -- two boxes each of red and white at 29 cents per tile. This is decent stuff, too. It's top of the line Domco, which usually goes for about $3 a foot. It's an omen.

Wow. What a lot of great stuff. Thanks, everyone. First, an update: you guys said paint the cabinets, so I did, sort of. They've been disassembled and primed, and I'll do a coat of paint tomorrow or Sunday morning, using some semi-gloss that still appears to be viable. There was also a hint or two that the wallpaper had to go -- enough of a hint that I felt I could act on my own inclination -- so it did. The walls are now a pale butter yellow (also a remnant). I'll total it up later, but so far, all I've bought has been a roll of masking tape, a 4-inch paint roller and cover, and a gallon of primer -- all told, maybe 30 bucks, for what looks like a huge improvement in the way the room feels. So far, so good, budget-wise and value-wise. I also took off the door at the lower part of the drawing -- it goes to the dining room, and never should have been there. There's a bunch of stuff to cover, and I'll try to capture it all, but I'll probably miss something. If I do, and it's important to the advice you're offering, bring it up again, please. How soon -- ASAP. I'll be doing all the work, unless I can find some conscripts. I'm pretty handy, but I can't do finish carpentry. If woodwork will be visible, I'll have to hire someone else to do it. Priorities: lighting, storage, workspace. These three are about equal, with aesthetics not too far behind. I'm a big believer in "form follows function," meaning (grossly oversimplifying), if it works well, it can't help looking good. On the other hand, I also like wit and a bit of whimsy, and I love conceptual design. (I once designed a trade show exhibit that was a stylized version of a wastewater treatment plant. It was constructed from components used to build municipal playgrounds.) I refuse to be concerned about the appliances. I'm too cheap to throw out things that work, so the dishwasher and the range are safe for now. On the other hand, I insisted that the seller buy a warranty for the major stuff. So I'll live with the range, while secretly hoping it dies. Based on a quick survey at Home Depot, I can do full undercabinet lighting for about $100. There is gas in the house, but not in the kitchen. I haven't checked, but I suspect it would be very expensive to make a gas range happen. The water heater and furnaces, both of which use gas, are upstairs. So is the laundry room -- I use "room" in a very liberal sense, as it's literally a closet. High shelves are not possible, as there is no such thing as "high" in this room. The ceiling is just a little over seven feet, except where the lighting is. It goes up a foot above the lenses you see in the ceiling. Speaking of lighting, no one has mentioned the ceiling fan, which must have been over a kitchen table in an earlier incarnation. It has to go. But that leaves a switched junction box in the ceiling -- something to keep in mind for lighting design. I can't discard the idea of eating in the kitchen. My original plan didn't include it, but it turns out to be non-negotiable. Loews says they don't sell the kitchen stuff here. But there are a number of outlets in the area, and I will check them out. Based mainly on what I've read here, I'm considering something like this: A -- A 2' x 6' worktable extending from the wall next to the door into the room. Something like this, though I'd hope to find something similar at a lower cost. If equipped with baskets, the shelves can hold onions, potatoes, tableware, linens, you name it. B -- A 36" or 42" drop-leaf table at the right wall. The worktable leaves enough room for two chairs. It's possible that I'll cut an opening above the table. The opening would face the living room, and would make a big difference in the apparent size of the kitchen. This wouldn't necessarily come out of my budget -- negotiations are underway. On the other hand, this is carpentry I can do, since my ugly technique will be hidden behind sheetrock. It wouldn't cost much, with free labor. C -- A chest like this to hold gadgets and stuff. I think I can get one used for about $100. There's room on top for the toaster and microwave (one of Fat Guy's disposable models, already purchased from Target). Thanks again, everyone.