Louisa Chu

Margaret, thanks so much for the reminder. Bux, chestnut spread on croissants?! Talk about gilding the lily!

Definitely the Cantine team - not Clos des Gourmets. Where did you hear that? Sorry I forgot to say so before - thanks so much for your post - it's so cool to hear all the details from a diner's perspective - having heard so much of my friend's in the kitchen. And welcome to eGullet.

Bruce, I've got a soft spot for Benoit too - my first Michelin starred restaurant experience. I went as the guest of a friend - who's been going there since she was a kid. Ballotine - I love that preparation - so old school - deboned whole bird, stuffed, wrapped in a torchon, poached, then allowed to sit for at least a day - much more complicated than a terrine - a lot of fun to make. Mouton's sheep - but for cheese it's brebis - ewe. But are you kidding about the 4th - and having a star? The 4th's full of bargains - it does include the Marais - and even Le Violon in the 7th has a dinner menu for 80 euros a person. vserna, but does anyone recommend L'Ami Louis anymore? marcus, I've been there for a weekend dinner at it was fine. My friend tells me it's always the same. Bux, just up from the Hotel de Ville - right across from Monoprix.

JJS, banish the thought that Chef Piege will go off his game. If anything he'll ramp it up. I should be under his rule at that time - and I'm afraid, very afraid.

Just thought I should mention that a friend of mine just finished his stage at La Cantine - tough but great people - and the whole Cantine team is moving over to the two star Les Muses.

Lesley, will try to find out - and let you know.

At this point dog and I are definitely in for either Saturday - anytime - or Wednesday night.

My initial panic has subsided a little - he's not leaving until February says the article. He's the reason I'm at ADPA at all. No word as of yesterday amongst us regular working stiffs - saw him chewing out staff early Tuesday morning as normal - but I'm sure it's the buzz today. Thanks for the news!

Hi Jennifer - welcome to eGullet. For high-end cooking classes in your own home, PM/email me - I might be able to help you there. Yes - I'm doing cooking classes - but on a very limited basis! In someone else's home: Patricia Wells - thanks fresh_a for the link - but she's booked until April. Promenades Gourmandes - Paule Caillat is very charming. Other high-end options: Le Cordon Bleu offers short gourmet courses from one to four days. They also have a luxurious package with the Georges V. Ritz-Escoffier is also highly recommended. Good luck!

hollywood, thanks! I goofed - I thought it was last week! You can listen online to the live simulcast on Saturday or archived starting Monday. Good Food/KCRW/LA tana, thank you! And thanks too for the news on Evan. In Carp?! Home of my favourite burritos - Beach Liquor - the chorizo and egg with tomatillo salsa - no good Mexican/Mexican-American food in Paris!

Fat Guy, what digital equipment does Ellen use? I didn't see specifics in those pieces or on her site - but did find a big gorgeous pic of bacon!

Jon, thanks - didn't know about Rococo Chocolates before - so cool. Pity about the duck.

Whoa. What's the story there? Not continuous "Since 1928"? I've only known them for a few years - used to see the billboard on the drive up from LA all the time. Then stayed at the airport Hyatt where they were sponsoring some event and got invited to an IT'S IT all you can eat - apparently I can eat an alarming number of them. Always want to buy a case at the factory - right next to the hotel - but can't handle it. One of my favourite IT'S IT moments - long hike through Sequoia, followed by an IT'S IT at sunset. I really miss California too.

Bux - La Sologne! I was down three years ago this November - game season. Started seeing whole wild boar and fully-feathered pheasants in the markets. Then a Saveurs cover story hit - and I think the same week an article by William Grimes. God, when you talk about chocolate in a lievre dish it strikes the same chords as blood - so enticing, so primal. It reminds me of when Albert Adria talks olives and chocolate - seems so revolutionary, but fundamentally of the region. Maybe that's it - that we need to delve back into the interiors - to dark and murky roots - to things that can still stir us - and disturb us - in France.

Copying this from the Pierre Gagnaire book thread: Pierre Gagnaire will be doing a book signing at Librarie Gourmande on the 27th from 17:00 to 19:00!

Pierre Gagnaire will be doing a book signing at Librarie Gourmande on the 27th from 17:00 to 19:00!

OK, so the book comes out a week from today but the restaurant's closed Saturdays so hopefully they'll have it the Friday before. Oooh I cannot wait.

Michael, chefg - promise us you're documenting this a la Adria! Reading your list, at first they seemed a bit discordant - until the taste memory kicked in. I can't wait to see what you do with the temperature and textures - why trout roe specifically, which crabs and truffles, the nature of the coconut, the composition of malt, etc. You literally have me salivating. As to the vapor issues - discussed this at length with the incredible Amoretti people - Jack and Maral Barsoumian - with their Edible Perfume sprays - they sponsored Albert Adria at the World Pastry Forum in Vegas this summer. Theirs is a product more precise - now the question is a more precise method of delivery. We were talking vials to sprayed linen napkins presented in a sealed container - just a few thoughts. Thanks so much for sharing this with us!

Joyce, Thanks so much for your reply! The next time you're here I hope we can all get together with my friend Monique Wells - who wrote La Cuisine Noire Américaine/Food for the Soul - inspired by American expats in Paris who wanted a taste of soul food from home - preface by Alain Ducasse himself. Thanks again!

The guest chefs will be cooking at the Relais - not ADPA!

Bux, Steve's creation does sound amazing! Wish I could have seen them. But foie gras in chocolate cups the rage in Paris? Where do you think this is? Spain? Moby, I promise, promise, promise you - I'm taking notes. fresh_a, you said it.

Bux, yes, thanks so much for bringing this thread back up - I don't know how I missed this either! And yes, it is highly unusual for a stagiaire to be given any position of authority - when there are chefs de parties, demi chefs de parties, commis, apprentices, and even other more senior stagiaires waiting hungrily in line - even more amazing when that stagiaire is not fluent in French. So big congratulations Simon - that was a miracle - for better or worse. As for the French 35 hour work week - like most things in France it's enforced rather sporadically - for French and non-French workers. My only complaint about Simon's post is that it's my day off and his gripping all too familiar story kicked my adrenaline level back up.

Pan, thanks. And maybe my sister will do her own La Sexe et La Cite! Moby, patisserie - I'm doing pastry right now! No fat livers! Yet. But our walk-in is right next to the gastro cuisine merchandise reception - so I never quite know what I'll see when I come around the corner in the morning. Some days it's the Brittany lobsters, others it's spindly-clawed langoustines. And then there are those rows and rows of little softly feather-headed Bresse chickies. So I guess it's only a matter of time before I'll see the foie gras. This week was hard. A lot more people back from vacation - staff and clients - so you really feel the pressure stepped up. But really good. I'm finding I'm really drawn to boulangerie - maybe not so surprising since I loved it so much at CB. Waiting for the pastry chef backlash! Last week was my first week hands-on in boulangerie and it seemed quite hopeless. The gastro boulanger - Jerome, the one guy dedicated to ADPA bread - is so cool - young, 26, wiry, funny, fellow rockclimber - who makes the most incredible perfect bread - little dynamic works of art in dough. We do these small loaves - you might remember them, the ones with the the ends that curl up like tendrils - and he let me try 2 dozen the first day - really getting a good-natured kick out of the hapless results. This week - about 2 dozen more attempts later - I got those tendrils! I couldn't believe it! Michael, no Frederic Robert! I thought he was there too! I have not gotten the full story on that one yet. The ADPA pastry chef is Nicolas Berger - who helped open ADNY with FR. He was chef at Laduree - Jerome worked with him there. We underlings speak about Chef Nicolas in hushed, reverent tones. He reminds me of the best martial arts masters - quiet and unassuming with lightning fast reflexes. I saw him pick a sliver of apple off the outside of a Tarte Tatin pan yesterday - while it was bubbling on the fire. He seems to have 360 peripheral vision - correcting my piping technique with the apple beignets for example - a little too thin - with compassionate, precise direction - lift the bag and let the batter fall more fully. He does have freedom to develop his own desserts - but does them on one counter in our tiny little kitchen - they were working with fresh lychee, julienned rose petals, and Soho lychee liqueur the other day. Michael, you're jealous?! I'm embarassed. K, I do love the shaking elbows - or sometimes wrists - thing too. It's such a primal thing to touch - reinforces our tribe. No graham crackers! And thanks so much for your kind words - I'm trying.

Bux, oh yeah, PH documents his creative process. He talks about the often very emotional inspirations for the pieces. Michael, Lesley's question was right on - actually PH does still have La Cerise sur le Gateau in the shop - it's one of the classics. 5.50 for an individual portion or 50 euros for a cake that serves 6 - yeah, I know that seems weird - the price difference - but I'm told the deco on the whole cake is amazing - that one you should order ahead. Roz, you are so right about the patience of the PH staff! I can't tell you how many people - myself included of course - have a million questions for every single thing in there! But you never feel rushed by the staff - or following clients - I suspect because they know they'll behave the same. Sinclair, oh you bring up my guilty secret - I'm such a luddite - I have photos but I don't know how to upload them yet. I will try to post some soon. Some of the new work does resemble previous collections - layers in glass, etc. - but I really feel that so many need to be photographed well cross-sectioned too - like pH3's - which look just like white chocolate balls - but seriously layered interior. And then there's the texture and taste. I'm crazy for the lemon compote/hazelnut praline - smooth white choc, crispy praline, contrasting acidity - addictive balance - thank God they're a little bigger than bite size. Moby, no web page - yet. Paula, just one PH shop on rue Bonaparte. Are you thinking of the address on Vaugirard? That's only for special order pickups. The line is really not that bad if you hit it on off hours! I've been there a few times with no line and when there is one it moves pretty steadily. Decisions? Just get one of each. Seriously. That's what my friend Alexandra - think younger, hipper Auntie Mame in Dior - did for me - to educate my patisserie palate. It's shocking that most prices are only about 5 euros per individual portion - so that's what? Like 50 euros? Do it! An indulgence everyone should take at least once in their lives.

Paris food news with Gerard Deparidieu and Luc Besson?! It's funny GD shops at E. Dehillerin fairly often. Also want to add that while Chef Yannick Alleno moves from the two-star Les Muses to Le Meurice that Chef Jean Francois Rouquette of the one-star Cantine de la Bourdonnais will be taking over at Les Muses - bringing along nearly his entire team - a CB friend of mine who staged with them was invited along. Rouquette is a protege of Christian Constant - of the one-star Violon d'Ingres - and I'll ask him about the rumour next time I see him - which is almost every day at his new Cafe Constant.