Louisa Chu

menton, you're so welcome! Let me know when you're coming to town! And I must say the weather's gorgeous in my neighborhood - heat and all - the parks and river really cool it off. And the warm summer nights are insanely romantic. And merci from Karli - yes, that's my girl. fresh_a, I live right across Bosquet! What's in Square de Robiac? Is there a school? I always mean to check it out but am concerned about cornering an unsuspecting kitty. Yes, those crepes - they drive me crazy.

Actually, they lit the new glittering lights around 11:20PM - about an hour half ago. Uh oh, my sister's watching the live coverage on TV and she says they're doing the Macarena - we got in just in time! We walked out about 10:45PM - with plastic cups of chilled rose wine in hand - and just followed the music. We stepped out of our building onto rue de Grenelle and walked towards the Champ de Mars - which we can see from our balcony just three streets over. We exhanged greetings with our favourite neighborhood cafe couple - they have the handsomest Shepherd/Husky mix named Doogie. They were open exceptionally late - all the tiny round sidewalk tables filled, people drinking everything from beers to those bright green mint-syrup flavoured drinks they favour here. At the corner, down rue Augereau, a crowd blocked the road so we headed over. A band was playing at the mouth of the little L-shaped, cobblestoned rue du Gros Caillou - reggae as we walked up. The orange-awning-ed Cafe de Champ de Mars had set up a table as a temporary bar, selling bottled water and beer. We worked our way up to rue St. Dominique and turned towards the Tower. Passing Le Dome - not THE Le Dome, just a cafe - I saw an old man, wearing a suit and hat, carefully walking, while eating a supersized serving of frites, covered in mustard. The cafe was also taking advantage of the crowds with a long outdoor table selling those frites - 4 euros! - drinks and baguette sandwiches. We started towards the Tower again, but someone set off fireworks and Karli - uncharacteristically in harness and on leash - pulled us to what she considered the safety of the entrance to her vet's office on Bourdonnais. We managed to coax her into the park once we reached our street again. Just before the dusty side path, an enterprising family sold sausages and meat and onion kebabs right off the grill - on baguettes as sandwiches - and again those cold drinks. The bike path was actually not packed and the center lawn while full had a few open patches. We found a spot on the lawn right in front of the Peace Memorial - front right corner, facing the Tower - where we normally have evening dog play group. The Rolling Stones-sized stage set up at the front of the next lawn has been the setting all day - or at least the few times I ventured over - to an unfortunate assortment of Euro disco bands. Sadly this act was no exception. Just before 11:20PM, the band mercifully stopped and the gold Tower lights went dark, from the base up, in three phases. They were supposed to stay off for 10 minutes - for suspense - so we watched while Karli played with a Pug and Jack Russell. But seconds later, at the collective gasp of the crowd, we looked up just in time as a flutter of lights went up the Tower - and the glittering ones went on. We'd almost missed it. These lights are so much better than those that went up for the Millennium! The previous lights had an unnerving quality while these - though also bright - glitter, twinkle, and sparkle. OK, drunken, shouting idiots passing under my window. I'm contemplating water balloons. Damn - no balloons. Still shouting. Considering water. We made a pass through the park - relatively, surprisingly clean - and headed over to Cafe Roussillon on Grenelle at Rue Cler - another official site of the Fete. People dancing in the street to music but no live band. Down Rue Cler, a ghost town except for the crepe stand at Cafe du Marche - which Marion Cunningham once said was one of her two best meals one a particular trip, the other at Taillevent. Around La Motte Picquet, where at the corner, the crowd poured down into the Metro at Ecole Militaire. And around again up Bosquet, where at Malone's we actually found music we liked - kind of an acid jazz thing. Joined the throng for a bit then headed home. Crowds gone. Just a few stragglers left. But my downstairs neighbors' are having a party - warning note posted next to the elevator this morning - and they're actually blasting disco. Why can't neighbors' music ever be good?

They're also lighting the tower tonight at 11PM! Menton, just for you I'll brave the crowds!

Bux, urinoirs! I never saw those - only you could make me wish I had. But that smell may be changing - I read/heard that they're scenting the Metro with perfumes - details here. And I do love the 14 - especially the underground garden at Madeleine.

A comment and a couple of questions. The "stovetop" creme brulee in Julia's Mastering 1 did not work for me at all. It did not set when chilled and when baked in a bain-marie by the time it did set the texture was too firm. What went wrong? When referring to a creme brulee - especially as a layer in an entremet - is it understood elsewhere that it does have a burned sugar crust? That apparently is not the case amongst the French who understand it to mean primarily the custard. What does Bau say? Sinclair, I'm fascinated as to how the pyramids might work. Mold them like a creme caramel - to stick the sugar - freeze solid, unmold, sugar, brulee? I have no idea, but can't wait to find out.

Mark, yes, a fellow walker! Sure it's totally feasible. It's a hike but feasible. And if necessary you could also easily walk to Montparnasse. I just have no idea how this neighborhood's going to be on race day. And then there are the strikes. David, nope, not a fan of the Metro. And under normal circumstances, to get to Montparnasse, I'd either walk or take the 92 - on Bosquet - which ends right at the station. To take the Metro would be double the time. Plus, on the bus, you can see where you're going! What's the neighborhood like during these massive events?

Pan, I don't know the law here, but it's what's done. And I suspect we know what they're looking for. And the story's just starting on the stage ... fresco, thank you. And yes, the diploma's big. I was just thinking that it will cost a fortune if I ever want to get it framed. Maybe I'll magnet it onto a big walk-in fridge door someday. And thanks, I do hope I get to do both.

Mark, that bus stop is on the race route - it will be closed that day. Even if you took the Metro or took a taxi I don't think you'd have enough time to get around town and then get out to Chartres. I know you're not a lounger but this is the other extreme! menton, Karli's OK - I remain indignant. Bisous from her too!

Mark, I know that hotel well. It's right across the street from my laundromat - yes, oh what a glamourous life I lead - very charming and nice staff - they never mind when my dog just runs into their breakfast garden. Oh god no, don't take the Metro - I hate the Metro. Besides you'd have to hike it all the way over to Ecole Militaire. Take the 87 bus at Bourdonnais/Rapp right to Maubert Mutualite. Take it from Cluny back to Champ de Mars/Bourdonnais. Use the RATP site Route Finder to figure out how to best get around. But just re-reading your post, not on the the Saturday of the start of the Tour. All transport in the area will be a nightmare. I know nothing about the Chartres tour - sorry. But you're trying to take in the market, the start of the Tour and the trip to Chartres all in the same day? Is that right?

Mark, I used to live right up the street from this market - and I do mean up the street. I lived on Avenue de la Montagne Ste. Genevieve - which is uphill. And it is open Tuesday, Thursday, Saturday. I can absolutely assure you of this because not only did I walk by Maubert-Mutualite just about every day, but we had a rental car that was towed on both a Tuesday and Wednesday because of the market. Don't ask - ex-boyfriend just wouldn't listen. Saturday's the biggest day. On the weekdays it's mostly just food, but on Saturdays there are a lot more vendors. So having said that, it might just be worth the special trip - if you tie it in with the original Maison Kayser on Rue Monge. And then you'd have to visit their little know bio/organic patisserie as well. And then there's Diptyque right around the corner - if you're into scented candles, and c'mon who's not - where they gift wrap each candle in layers of jewel-toned tissue paper - for free. You could also have a drink or lunch at Balzar which everyone loves - but I still hold a grudge against them because they stepped on my dog's tail but then did not aplogize to her.

Thanks for the gorgeous pix! What was lunch?

A Beef Wellington tip - layer a crepe between the puff pastry and the beef/duxelles/foie gras. This keeps the moisture contained and the puff pastry from getting soggy.

John, hilarious! But other than the old-school ring mold convention - which seems so incongruous - why did you feel that you ate at a cookery school? I have a friend who just started his stage there this week. 9AM to midnight - 3 hour lunch break - 7 days a week. I'll get his take this weekend I hope.

I am truly frightened. The Tour starts with a run through my neighborhood.

I don't know about the vendor but I have tried the oil. It's very good but I don't think it's worth a special trip to a market in Paris. You can buy it online or email them and ask where else you can find their stuff. I visited the mill down south and that definitely is worth a day. Moulin Cornille

Pan, thank you! In France - as in most of the rest of the world - they expect curriculum vitaes and not resumes from everyone including chefs - though not usually from lowly stagiaires - with age, marital status, number of kids, and photo. I suspect during the interviews they estimate weight and measurements. sandra, thanks! That sounds so good! I was thinking about doing a roast too but have always had more consistent results with chops - and I do like that bone. How's sugar work treating you?! Moby, you are too kind - and too funny - I am a little people! alacarte - yah, me neither! hollywood, oh my cooking is much more dramatic. Thanks so much - and I'm afraid the thought has crossed my mind to try to do both.

That's so cool. What kind of mustard?

Ruth, the potatoes were not too sweet at all. Fantastic colour and just a hint of that port aroma - incredible with the duck. I'll ask G if he remembers why he did them that way - if there was a method to his madness that time. And I did forget that the chefs did have another nickname for him - 007 - for his impressive and forever increasing collection of gadgets. And those leftovers are gone - but I do still have a whole unbaked Galette des Rois. Now that's a seriously good breakfast.

fresco, my country? Which? The US? Oh please don't just saddle me with one. China, the US, France - they're all mine, I'm all theirs. And please don't get me wrong. I don't have anything against drugs or alcohol per se. I just find the frat boy binges amusing - and annoying. I mean, speaking of opiates, my grandparents smoked opium. Puh-leeze.

fresco, I'm certainly no expert on drugs either, but you think inner city USA suffers from the above the way the rest of the world does? Mmmhmm ... And my family was the people escaping the horrors - as were our Mexican staff. We just didn't have a lot of time and money to blow - so to speak.

Yes. In my family's restaurant kitchens. After living the lives they'd lived - oh let's see, war, poverty, hunger, imprisonment, torture, etc. - we didn't need the quaint boredom of drugs and alcohol.

tan, I'd asked my CB chefs before about substituting standard French supermarket butter for dry butter. After blinking and staring at me - as if I'd asked the question in Chinese - and helpfully suggesting that I should really just go and try to find some dry butter somewhere - like asking my local patisserie if they'd sell me some on the side - they finally said that it might work to just leave the water out of the detrempe. So maybe that might work with Plugra or a "Normandie" butter. Just add water as you really need it. As far as my pastry stage/externship, I don't know now. I would love to stage at Herme but I just don't know if I can anymore due to forces beyond my control. I will let you know as soon as I do. I do have a good friend who's staging at Herme now so I'm getting the insider story from her. Will keep you posted. Dave, now you know. And if you and your beagle are ever in town, you are welcome to stop by and see our ever growing collection of black baggies.

Mark, to add to David's great neighborhood list Au Bon Acceuil 14 rue Monttessuy, 7th, 01-47-05-46-11 They just reopened - remodelled - a short block from the Eiffel Tower; modern bistro food; dinner menu - appetizer, main, dessert - for only 30 euros Violon d'Ingres 135 rue Saint Dominique, 7th, 01-45-55-15-05 Michelin 1-star - though arguably should still be a 2-star; comfortably luxurious; 3-course lunch menu only 39 euros

Why blue? I don't know. Because garbage bags are green? Doggie poop bags are black? I don't know - they just are.

Dry butter is not butter with flour mixed in. It is just low water content butter. It is an ingredient that is just purchased commercially in France - huge blocks, blue plastic bag.