vice

That chartreuse is green, I assume?

I think you're way too hard on yourself--that's downright sparkling compared to mine. Do tell what Ong had to say about gougeres when you've got a minute. I think we're going to pass some around before the big meal, too. For a number of years, I've used a recipe that I think started out as Keller's from TFL. I'm always game to change things up though. And thanks for bringing Busboy's post to our attention. Great read. It actually made this tyke fancy a wife and house and all the other trappings of responsible adulthood that come with.

If any of your guests fancy a cocktail after dinner, you can press that armagnac into service in a Brandy Special, a plain ol' brandy cocktail gussied up with a couple dashes of curacao. Here's what Erik had to say in the Savoy topic: That is not hyperbole.

Crab dip, poutine, pulled pork. I really wanted the crispy headcheese with a fried egg and pickled veg, but they were out. In fact, practically the whole menu called out to me, which I can't say it did in the past. Absence making the stomach grow fonder (I was a regular at the Fez for a few years starting way back in '02)? Perhaps. But I'm pretty sure it's a more ambitious and varied menu than it was some years back. I'm tempted to say the execution has improved as well, but take that with a grain of salt given my limited sampling.

I've had good experiences from all of the following: Astor Wine & Spirits BevMo DrinkUpNY K&L Beltramos Saratoga Wine Exchange Binny's (Sam's actually, which was bought by Binny's) Places worth mentioning that I haven't actually bought from: the already mentioned Hi-Time (best rum selection ever?) and Mount Carmel (awesome amaro selection).

Nick's is a great suggestion. Even if you've been a while back, they've really stepped up their game lately. You know who else has? The Red Fez. Haven't been in at least 4 years, stopped by tonight. I can't think of a place serving better bar food (I'm probably underselling it a bit here) in Providence, or anywhere for that matter.

So after all that, and a promise to be more punctual next time, what's new and exciting in our little state? On my radar: Persimmon, and now Persimmon Provisions. Never been (well, haven't had a chance for the latter), but everything I've heard sounds very promising. Watching the twitter feed of La Laiterie's Ben Sukle is increasingly, mind-bendingly awesome. I'd love to do their tasting menu. Any idea if it's still only offered Friday and Saturday (which, over the course of my visit, are entirely obscured by the holidays -- #*@%)?

I'm afraid this was directed towards me. I'm embarrassed that it's taken me til the eve of my next trip back to Rhode Island to report back on the previous one—-apologies all around. Luckily I did have some notes (some more complete than others) to jog my memory. Cook & Brown I stopped in for a quick bite and a drink served by our own Chris Amirault, a consummate host despite the fact that he was flying solo on a busy night. He and his colleagues behind the bar have definitely put together the best cocktail program that I've encountered in Providence thus far. I started off with the Famiglia Royale, a Negroni on the rocks, topped up with prosecco. Such a simple tweak to a classic, but very well conceived. It was a great way to cut through what, at the time, was a very humid Providence summer. I now have this little gem tucked away and will be repurposing it as a brunch drink, served up in a flute, as soon as the opportunity arises. To eat, I had a small plate of bluefish prepared two ways: fritters, crusted in coarse breadrumbs (panko?), and nicely balanced by the horseradish mayo beneath; and rillettes atop crostini. Some pleasantly bitter baby greens alongside offset the richness of the fish. And thus the craving of this homesick New Englander for one of our great summer treats was sated. After a brief chat about various intriguing bottles behind the bar, we settled on rum for the next drink, specifically the Doctor cocktail: Smith & Cross Jamaican rum, a slightly modified version of Erik Ellestad's Swedish Punsch, and lime juice. This was a lovely showcase both for the rum and the Swedish Punsch. I'm angry that I had overlooked this in Vintage Spirits and Forgotten Cocktails for so long. It beats an apple a day by a mile. So thanks again to Chris. He kindly introduced me to Nemo, Cook and Brown's chef-owner, and some folks around the bar (one of whom I actually knew but had never met in person; Rhode Island, small world, and all that). My overall impression is that C&B is a top-rate neighborhood joint, but also one that aspires to be and succeeds at being much more. I'm very jealous of the locals, and look forward to my next visit (which will hopefully be soon). Chez Pascal head cheese, sauce gribiche country pâté, candied fennel duck liver mousse, carmeleized onions pork rilletes, pickled red pepper cornichons, pickled fennel and carrot Why has it been so long since I've been to Chez Pascal? They gave me what was, without a doubt, far and away, the best head cheese I've ever had. Ever. So delicate, so rich. Where other head cheese comes in firm slices, this melted. Is it just a more refined aspic holding all the face bits together? Other standouts included the pickled vegetables and the pâté. I confess that I've never been excited about rilletes of pork or duck—they always seem devoid of flavor relative to the unshredded meat, which is curious (contrast with salmon rilletes, or bluefish like the above, which never fail to please). These continued the trend. All told, Matt Gennuso might be doing the best charcuterie in the state right now, and so it's in everyone's interest to get back there and try it. La Laiterie Charcuterie platter of rabbit mortadella, pâté de campagne (pork, pistachio, smoked bacon), and chicken liver mousse. The liver flavor of the mousse was way too strong, and I like liver. Mortadella and pâté were both good. Heirloom tomato salad, burrata, avocado, purslane. How can you not enjoy a salad like this at the height of summer? Also, since when did RI restaurants discover purslane? I think I encountered it three separate times on this trip. Baby octopus, charred corn, green cherry tomato Soft shell crab, pork belly, (unidentified large-leafed herb?), two sauces (one remoulade-like, the other a coarse chili sauce) Grilled sea scallops, grilled white peach, potato, turnip puree, green goddess?, peach molasses Pork head torchon, grilled peach. Torchon was like a fried doughnut filled with pork, intoxicating. Other notable mentions include a chicken liver mousse at Nick's on Broadway that was textbook perfect, and the mutton curry at Not Just Snacks. In our prolonged separation, it continues to haunt my dreams.

I made this last night with Hayman's in place of Ransom. Great, great drink. I was blown away by how insanely floral it was. They whiskey fiend in me is tempted to double the scotch, but I fear doing so might cause everything to come crashing down. As it is, whisps of smoke and iodine linger in the background, barely insinuating themselves. The subtlety is definitely key. I recall Hayman's being sweeter than Ransom. If I made it with the former again, I think I'd tweak that scant 1/2 oz down to a 1/4. I bet it's awesome with Ransom; I really need to pick up a bottle (better yet, for those who have yet to get me anything, here's a reminder that there are nine shopping days left til Christmas...)

Max, Have you by chance picked up one of the inexpensive Lap-Pro meters? It would make a great gift for someone who makes fermented foodstuffs at home (i.e. me).

No, I haven't. Just remembered it was in the book. The price looks reasonable, but no idea as to the quality. I've been looking for some too so I hope someone in the know chimes in.

In Ad Hoc at Home, Keller lists Market Hall Foods as a supplier.

Yep, the pizza and pasta areas were serving then and the tables were wide open.

I visited around 11 on a weekday morning. There was no crowd (based on a single visit, so take it with a grain of salt). The layout alone might be disorienting for people used to the conventional parallel-aisle arrangement.

I came across this site a couple weeks back: www.getbutcherjobs.com. The vast majority of postings seem to be for the 'supermarket meat cutter' type position, but it could be a start. You can set up an RSS feed for listings in your area.

Doh, I remember reading that now (July was a long time ago). In other news, when I stopped in at The Counting Room last week, I asked Troy Sidle about the status of the next book. He didn't have any specific information other than to relate that Maks & co. are still working on it. I reiterated that its arrival is being eagerly awaited.

Any idea if the pamphlet contains only the recipes from the original book, or if new ones have been added?

Question for Mr. Wondrich, or others in the know: With the holidays approaching, Dickens's Punch seems a natural tipple. I was puzzled by the the mention that less sugar is needed if the punch is served cold than if consumed hot (given the general principle that perception of sweetness is dulled at cold temperature). My only guess is that the perception of alcoholic strength would also be elevated in a hot punch, and thus more sugar might be needed to balance the recipe. Thoughts?

Agricole

Might the order you added the ingredients to the tin have been different from usual (i.e., citrus + egg white before gin vs. citrus + gin before egg white)? At what pH do egg white proteins coagulate? Is it common to see lemons acid enough to coagulate egg white even when it's added last?

I use a teaspoon for a drink that is a bit over 2 oz pre-chill (more or less the proportions Erik gives here).

Sriracha is indeed an apt metaphor. Tired tonight (and out of Fernet), so Cynar and Bulleit over a single cube. Did the trick.

I wouldn't necessarily say that it's a Champagne-style beer, but last week I picked up a bottle of Goose Island's Sofie, which the brewery bills as an 'intriguing choice for Champagne drinkers and drinkers who are fond of Belgian Saisons'. I'm a proud member of both groups and the Sofie didn't disappoint. eta: proper prepositioning

Harold McGee's NYT column this week was on plant-based cooking oils. He heated samples of 15 oils in a pan by themselves. A tasting panel found that heat significantly degrades any initial flavor differences - all the oils were perceived as similar in taste after heating. It's an interesting result, but I wonder if a more realistic test might yield a different result. For instance, vegetables like eggplant and mushrooms can soak up quite a bit of oil when sauteed. Do differences in flavor survive the cooking process in such cases? While my gut says yes, my brain is skeptical that any vegetable could sufficiently insulate wicked-up oil to keep it below the temp at which flavor degrades (say the 350F mentioned in the article).

phenylthiocarbamide?