Katie Meadow

Typically we have guests and make Coq au Vin on New Year's Day, but this year we are having Cheatin' Heart Chicken as part of a border meal; and that would be the Louisiana-Texas border. The cheatin' part is because I have leftover turkey gumbo sauce and I'm going to cook chicken in it for an incredibly easy dish over rice. Along with this will be buttermilk slaw and vegetable pickles (very fiery as it turns out, due to an unusually hot batch of jalapenos), both from the Homesick Texan cookbook (great gift, thanks hon!), chard in the manner of collards, and cornbread. For dessert there will be a very high-class jello mold (anything molded counts as southern, right?): fresh pure blood orange juice mold (nothing in it but gelatin and a coupla Tbsps of sugar) served with brandied whipped cream and chocolate cookies. Ooh, maybe I should sub bourbon for the brandy? There will be cheese straws and edamame for simple apps, so that's how the beans get in.

Living in New Mexico for a number of years during the late sixties and early seventies I've eaten my share of pinto beans. I did not become a big fan of beans then. It's only been the last few years that I branched out and began trying other types of beans and discovered how different they all are in flavor, texture, depth of pot liquor, etc. It's been so long since I had pintos from NM that I really don't remember what they were like. I have tried RG's pintos and found them a bit bland and typical of most pintos in that they don't hold their shape very well and tend to melt; great for refritos I suppose. What I always wanted from a pinto I discovered in rattlesnakes, which I am lead to believe is a cousin of the pinto. The only place I have found to buy good ones is Purcell Mountain Farms. I would suggest that anyone looking for a pinto-like bean with deeper flavor and firmer texture try them. If RG ever goes into the rattler business, I'm so there. Any dish you can call 'Snakes in a Pot can't be bad, and they don't taste like chicken. The Good Mother Stallard beans are my favorites of all Steve's inventory (of the ones I have tried so far, anyway.)

So far the best price for Ortiz that I can find is at Berkeley Bowl, and they are pretty reliable about keeping it in stock. They sell smaller cans of Ortiz and it is cheaper by the pound that way than buying a jar or large can at, say, the Pasta Shop. Still not cheap, but presumably because it is bonito--and therefore a smaller type of tuna--it has less mercury. Your cat must be awfully picky. I'm sure the fresh fish counter at the Bowl has something he will like.

Recently I've discovered Trader Joe's brioche bread. It is an extremely useful product--especially if you need stale brioche bread for french toast or bread pudding, since it is pretty much stale as soon as you buy it. Actually I very much like it for toast.

djyee, that looks yummy. Did you take a workshop from Kasma? I took one the summer before last, though we did not make that dish.

Wow, no new posts since 2009? Last year my daughter and I got Baking with Julia for my husband. It was a success. He's a pretty good baker, but has limited technique, and still makes some basic loaves he learned from the Tassajara Bread Book way back when, but he's starting to branch out. He makes a lot of bread for sandwiches, and it has to be toastable. Mostly we don't eat sweet breads. We own exactly two other bread books, besides the crumbling Tassajara and the Julia book: Glezer's Artisan Baking and an ancient copy of Elizabeth David's English Bread and Yeast Cookery, which I have rarely seen him look at. I want to get him another bread book, since he seems inclined to leaf through options when contemplating what to bake next. I'm thinking Reinhart's Crust and Crumb or Carol Field's Italian Baker. What are some ideas for more recent publications that you bread bakers have liked?

The only source of grease in these cookies is the oil from the peanut butter, so if DH drains off the oil before you make them that is the likely sticking culprit. I'm not much of a baker, and frankly the science of baking mostly eludes me, but in my experience most other recipes for peanut butter cookies use less pb and additional butter to compensate (not to mention flour.)

Don't recall a serious sticking problem. They are delicate though, and tend toward the crumbly, so you have to be gentle getting them off the sheet. Maybe a silpat or even just parchment paper would help. Perhaps some peanut butter has a higher oil content than others and has less tendency to stick? As for the sweet factor, I probably cut back a little on the sugar as well, since that's always my natural inclination. Did you start with salted peanut butter? Adams pb is in fact pretty salty if you just eat it out of the jar on a spoon.

Yes, great story. At least with this southern tradition you are on alert for the metal in your mouthful. One new years day a zillion years ago my family was in the the Yucatan and we were served venison. I got the buckshot and broke a tooth. The rest of the day is a blur.

Andie, my chile paste was rojo, made from dried New Mexico chiles that I prepared a la Rick Bayless. If you get some decent hot chiles you can make a lot of red chile paste and freeze it in small amounts. When I lived in NM that was the staple during winter and spring when fresh green chiles were not available, and it was very typical to add it to beans or posole at the end, often just serving it separately so people could add it to taste, which was good, because it was really fiery. In those days I'm guessing they were dried hatch chiles. But these chiles I used were absurdly mild, not typical for NM dried chiles. I've had better luck using a mix of dried pasillas and guajillos which are sold in bulk at Mi Pueblo. Different flavor, though. I'm sure beans for the new year is a tradition somewhere. I'm looking forward to trying the Mayacobas next.

So I made my version of Sopa Tarasca last night. The beans were soaked for about 4 or 5 hours first. White onion, a little bit of minced carrot and then garlic was sauteed in bacon fat, then the drained beans were added to coat and 6 or 7 cups of chicken stock. The beans were boiled for 5 minutes, then turned down very low. I added Oregano Indio, fresh thyme and a couple of small dried red chiles, and a bay leaf. While the beans were cooking I roasted some really nice canned tomatoes from Dirty Girl Produce that I bought at the farmers' market recently. After roasting I mashed the tomatoes up with their juices and a generous amount of chile paste made from New Mexico chiles. I had to add a lot, because for some reason these chiles were very mild. I sauteed another half onion, some garlic, dumped in the tomato chile mix and some salt, warmed it up and set it aside. After two hours I added some more salt and the chile mixture to the beans, simmered the pot another 15 minutes and considered it done. I forgot to buy any corn tortillas, so I served it with queso fresco, chopped cilantro, crema and a little raw white onion. Excellent with toppings. I'm sorry my chile wasn't hotter. The Bolita beans were very tasty, but they had more of a potatoey texture than I expected. I think I would have been just as happy using my Rattlers, but I like this technique of adding tomatoes toward the end; it is a different flavor than if the tomato is added at the beginning with the broth.

I don't believe I've ever knowingly eaten olive loaf. If they sold it at Barney Greengrass my parents must have either been clueless or careful to avoid it. I had to google it just to see a picture. Yes, it does look vaguely familiar with pimento-stuffed green olives, so I must have seen it in my peripheral vision once or many times. It seems there are two camps when it comes to nostalgia for olive loaf: those who swear by it on rye with mustard, and then this guy, although since his concussion he may not be very reliable. http://blogs.poughkeepsiejournal.com/bobmillersmusings/2011/05/29/olive-loaf-anyone/

Okay, I haven't had a first date in 30 years, but here's what I remember from first date meals. Don't overdo it on the rich sauce or red meat or the cheese or cream. First dates are usually--especially if you are cooking for someone--not the most relaxed events. Meals heavy in animal protein that are accompanied by dense red wines do not always leave one feeling witty or light on one's feet. And can the anchovies, unless you already know this person really well. Just a personal and somewhat different take on this.

Just back from an expedition to my local supermercado and noticed for the first time they are selling peruanos and flor de mayos in bulk. Dunno if I just missed them before, or if selling them in barrels alongside Pintos is a new thing for them. Anyway, two questions: is there a diference between peruanos and mayacobas, or are they essentially the same bean? How do you like to use them? Would they be good for refritos?

EatNopales, I'll let you know what I do and how it turns out at the end of the week. My beans are never fatty, since I defat my stock--whether pork or chicken--before using it. My plan is now to add roasted tomatoes and garlic at the end, along with the chile rojo and salt, for the last ten or fifteen minutes of cooking. In a traditional Tarasca, when is the chile added? Looks like from a variety of pix that a dried chile is added whole. Can't wait to try something new! Country, you might try the Rebosero beans. I've used them in place of Pintos (when I couldn't get my precious Rattlers.) They are very nice, and might be a good taste test along side RG Pintos and grocery shelf beans.

EatNopales, what would make the recipe something other than pre-hispanic? And another question: I notice that most recipes for Sopa Tarasca call for adding the onion and tomatoes after the beans are cooked. Typically when I make a pot of beans, be it for red beans 'n rice or a more New Mexican style, I saute the onions and garlic, etc. first, then add the beans and then the stock, whether chicken or ham based, so the beans cook in the stock rather than in plain water. If I am using tomatoes (I usually don't) I would think to add them along with the stock, or at least early on. Does this particular Michoacan soup get its character from adding tomatoes late in the game, which I can imagine would be a fresher taste?

EatNopales you've given me a good idea. Never had Sopa Tarasca, but I looked up some recipes and it sounds yummy. One of my dream trips is to go to Patzcuaro for Day of the Dead. Since I have some red chile paste in the freezer that I made with anchos and guajillos and plenty of chicken broth in there as well, I'm going to make my own deconstructed version of Sopa Tarasca. By deconstructed I just mean I prefer to leave the beans whole rather than blending them up, but I will use the traditional tomato, with fried tortilla strips and some queso fresco for garnish.

Mmm, 'snakes in a pot! Just curious, Andie, have you cooked the Rattlesnakes you got recently from Purcell? I made my first batch the other day and think they are really great. Better even than I remembered. And I received my latest order from RG with beans I've never had before: Mayacobas, Baby Limas and Bolitas. It will be interesting to see how the Bolitas fare in a straight up Mexican preparation, where I would otherwise use a Pinto or, nowadays, Rattlers. Also included were my two oreganos, and I'm planning to use the Indio in my Bolita beans. That is if I don't smoke it all first. Wow, talk about a sensation when you first open the jar. It's positively....ceremonial. About cornbread. To me, saying there is an authentic cornbread is rather like saying there is an authentic white bread. My latest twist on my own cornbread recipe is to sub a small amount of buckwheat for either the corn meal or the white flour. Yes, I do use some AP white flour in my corn bread.

Okay, this is funny. Two days ago I placed an order for beans and both kinds of oregano; it must have been a while since my last order, because I only just noticed the indio. Side by side taste test when they arrive. Often old beans really look old--gloomy or dusty inside the package, or sometimes there is a kind of whitish film on them. I wouldn't be at all surprised if beans sat around getting dusty in a bin for months in a warehouse and were then packed in plastic bags, only to sit on a grocery store shelf for another six months. If you are buying beans in plastic packages, if the package itself is dusty enough so you can't really get a good look at the beans inside, that's a good reason to stay away from them as far as I'm concerned. In all my orders from RG or Purcell I have only gotten beans that didn't seem really fresh once, and that was an order of red kidneys from Purcell, a year or two ago. I'm curious about Camellia beans. Does anyone have a good mail order source for them, some place with a good track record for fresh products?

To those who have never ordered RG beans: remember that the shipping is flat rate no matter the weight of the merchandise. You will pay the same shipping and handling charge for 2 lbs. as for 20 lbs. Get some friends to go in with you on an order and split the shipping--it does make a difference. And to further my dubious credibility as a shill for RG, order a jar of Mexican oregano. There are upscale spices that cost plenty more this, so it isn't a bad deal. I have tried buying Mexican oregano for cheaper at a variety of Mexican markets in my area, but it pales in comparison.

I can attest to the greatness of Claire Robinson's recipe--I have made it. The full recipe is easy to find on line. I use natural salted Adams chunky peanut butter to make these cookies, and golden brown sugar. I think it would be a shame to use Jif or other sweetened pb for these. Really it's just peanut butter and sugar masquerading as a cookie. And they are so easy you could make them in your sleep. Especially if you are on Ambien, in which case the only way you will know you made them is the depleted jar you find on the counter the next morning.

I suppose something could be determined by comparing canned red kidney beans to canned pintos or canned black beans, but the murky flat flavor of canned beans makes any taste test suspect. The best way to compare beans and find out which are your favorites or which go best in certain dishes is to use good quality fresh dried beans. I love certain beans and find others to be a bore, either in taste or texture or both. For many years living in New Mexico I ate nothing but Pinto beans. Now I have several other types that are my favorites. Pintos are wonderful for refried beans because they are actually a very soft bean and get rather melty. If you like a firm bean that holds its shape, there are plenty of other choices. In most all bean dishes that specify pintos I now use Rattlesnakes or pink beans. I hated red kidney beans when all I knew was canned or improperly cooked beans. Now they are one of my favorites; they hold their shape well, and have a wonderful texture and flavor. I buy the dark red kidney beans from Purcell Mountain farms, and they are excellent. I haven't tried those Southern iconic Camellia beans, but I would like to. I am guessing that in the south there is high turnover, so perhaps they are fresher there even though they are bagged. Unless you buy beans where other people buy lots of them, getting stale ones is to be expected. Good Mother Stallard are also one of my favorites. Black beans have a very distinct flavor and they hold their shape well, but they take a longer time to cook than some other beans. My experience is that they are often undercooked, especially when used in salads. I keep my beans in jars, and try not to buy more than I can use in three or four months; since we cook a pot of beans almost once a week, they are gone before they get stale.

Made a couple of opportunistic buys this morning that will be used next Sunday to make my Turkey Gumbo. One is a smoked turkey wing, and the other is a couple of smoked duck sausages that looked good. Can I keep these smoked meats in the fridge for the next week or should they go into the freezer?

David, I love those fried shallots that come in the plastic jar. Excellent idea to dress up green beans--I'm going to do that at my first opportunity. (Somehow my own childhood Thanksgiving escaped the green bean casserole, but I have indeed been served it as a guest at various holidays.) One of my favorite uses for fried shallots is as a mix-in or topping for an Asian-style coleslaw, added right before serving.

Sold. But just out of curiosity, if the roux continues to darken after it is off the heat, and if overcooking or burning is such an obvious danger, why not take the roux off the heat before it reaches the stage you desire, and let it finish itself off? Maybe I will find out the answer when I cook my first real roux. Thanks for the sensible responses!