Man

Who can say that this restaurant isn't good or isn't interesting, but... Has anybody had experience of excessive saltiness at the Ledbury? Because, for all the technical fireworks and impressive creations, heavy seasoning in some dishes (notably a skate) will remain more vivid in the memory. Unfortunatey I also found a small piece of plastic in my amuse bouche which, apart from demonstrating that the kitchen was not on fire (or maybe it was, which would explain the distractions) on that particular night, disturbed me less (shit happens) than the seasoning. Other question marks. The celeriac in ash is fun and theatrical and smells good, yes, but a bit of accompanying boar, so little and enclosed in a fried 'croquette' seemed pointless. And, closing your eyes and focussing on flavour, have you never experienced a celeriac preparation with better and more intense flavour? The dessert of olive oil pannacotta (plus accessories), served in a rather uncomfortably deep glass, I found rather inexplicable, especially in a tasting menu. There were also highlights. The best dish was a scallop tartare with frozen horseradish, incredibly fresh, delicate and beguiling, and the famous flamed mackerel, which deserves its success, in my opinion: a stunning dish. In general, amazing and extensive plays on textures, cooking styles, temperatures. And the service is sweet, truly professional and attentive but 'easy'. A strange evening, will have to return, as I had the feeling we didn't experience the best of this place.

I have never eaten at the Waterside Inn but I found the presentation of the dishes you photographed quite disconcerting for a 3*. I am shocked. No desire whatsoever to fork out much money for that. This year I have been (often more than once) to many 1* in the UK (though in Scotland and London only) where the food was not only very well presented, but also bloody good and in acceptable amounts (because I agree with you that excessively small portions become detrimental to one's ability to properly taste the food). So I strongly disagree with your main point. To detail in case anyone is interested. In Scotland The Peat Inn is is my favourite 1* in this respect (he 'sous-vides' what benefits from it, such as a loin of hare, and cooks 'properly' the rest, with lots of deep sauces), The Kitchin is a close second, and the Plumed Horse comes third (to complete my Edinburgh picture, Martin Wishart impressed me technique-wise but less palate-wise and appeared to be striving too hard for the 2* in the direction you criticise, but I've been only once, I know that many disagree, and I need to try again. I found 21212 pretentious and self-centered. And I think 63 Tay Street in Perth should have a star.). In London, Apsleys for example offers generous portions in complex and interesting dishes with top materials (though surprisingly the tasting menu is a bit of a disappointment compared to the stunning carte dishes - expensive, yes, but look at where you are), and its patisserie section must be one of best in the UK - it is really 'haute'. And in places like Texture or Gauthier or L'Autre Pied, which I love, quantity or quality of cooking have never been an issue (oh that Gauthier truffle risotto, I salivate just thinking of that, even if I believe there is mascarpone in there, which I would have thought despicable until I tried it...). I am a bit weak in the 2* department, I too like Hibscus and I too will be there again soon, and I am counting the hours to my first visit to the Ledbury tomorrow! But to repeat, I think by going around you find a variety of styles, at all levels, to suit all preferences - I don't detect all this uniformity.

PS: for those of you who watched masterchef last night, or who have been to Noma: the dish in the second photo looks quite Noma-esque!

Can you identify any Man? Yum! The fourth is obviously the 'fagottelli' (starter portion) and the fifth is, I think, what he calls a 'crepinette' (as the term normally indicates a kind of sausage, he is being humorous here), of which I have tried a lamb, but that doesn't look like lamb, veal perhaps? I am also noticing that in mine the spinach was the outer layer whereas in yours it is inside the pastry. In general, it is quite rare to have exactly the same dish at Apsleys, they seem to play on endless variations. Another of many reasons for its appeal, for me. Not sure about the others, though I'd certanly like to dig in them. Will add to my experience soon...

The only sensible continuation of this story is that the Top Chef in questions calls back and apologises. Anybody has the right to write a candid opinion. He (or she) who writes bullshit, will soon be found out. He will quickly lose all credibility and will be ignored. There are very many who write (I am grateful to all of them), but very few I follow and trust. Restaurateurs needn't worry too much about incompetent reviewers, the market will eat them up and they won't do damage. Restaurateurs should rather worry about obviously discerning customers who complain, and reflect. I would also say that if the above is true for every reviewer, it is even truer for somebody who pays stratospheric prices for a dinner. Spending hundreds of pounds on a meal entitles you to nothing less than perfection, sorry. In a simple trattoria-style place at £20 a meal I hardly mention it if I find a few beards in mussels. But when I am paying heavy money I do so for everything to be JUST PERFECT. If it is not, I can write it everywhere I want to, it's as simple as that. 'Stabbing in the back'? Please. Some celebrity chefs struggle to understand that those prices are not an entitlement that comes with the brand: they have to be earned every day, with every single customer, with every single dish and act of service. If there is an unhappy customer, just apologise: is it that difficult? Then again, the market eventually takes care of those who don't understand this principle. I have the feeling that the Top Chef, who is a great professional, will call back and apologise, if he hasn't already done so.

I agree with you. I go there every time I find myself in London and have the time, and on each occasion I am stunned by the quality and the generosity in everything they do. I do not understand the many negative reviews. I'm booked in for next week and can't wait.

I for one like to see photos of restaurant food, it gives me an idea of the dishes and helps me select where to go (even if the photos are bad I still get an idea). My time (not to mention money ) is limited and I have to make painful selections. Out of laziness I have stopped taking photos myself, but I am not in the least bothered by people at other tables taking photos of their dishes (there are other things that bother me). This is just to say that I appreciate the informative photographic efforts of many posters around here, and I hope they keep coming.

Brilliant report David, thanks. The fritto misto and the cotoletta di pollo look classily executed, better than in very many places in Italy! And the polpette, that classic of Italian home cooking and so difficult to find in restaurants (because of a 'natural suspicion' about what restaurants put in them...) made me dribble. I must definitely try it the next time I'm in London. PS: when the waitress said the polpette contained 'mostly pork' she might have been referring to the fact that there is an egg or two in the mix, not necessarily other types or meat or beef.

Nonsense. Leftover pasta goes into a frittata or gets ripassata in padella. Or you just eat it straight. What Italians find hard to countenance -- meaning what purists of a certain age find hard -- is cold pasta, or pasta salad, but modern life is winning on that front. Very true, Maureen. The shared taste for the lovely crunchiness of pasta reheated on a strong flame is one of the few remaining elements of national identity However, I don't know what you mean by 'modern', but I'm 48 and I have childhood memories of cold pasta salads in the Summer -fresh tomatoes, olives, herbs, olio EVO, even cheese...- and I don't think it was only me or my local friends - I'm from Genoa and my partner is from Rome, but pasta salad was always in the standard shared repertoire. Saying: 'let's make a pasta salad' never sounded more modern than saying 'let's make spaghetti aglio e olio'.

Tried it yesterday at lunch. I personally feel no desire to return, but I can see exactly why so many of you rave about it. Dishes with so many flavours and unusual combinations require great skill and judgement (as well as a perfect organisation in the kitchen) simply not to end up in a mess. And in fact the end result was much better than simply not a mess: it was a balanced composition. It's just that it failed to excite me. I have no prejudice against 'avant garde' or indeed any style or ethnicity of cooking. I eat everything. I believe that dishes are objectively either good or bad, that a chef objectively either can cook or he cannot. Then comes subjective taste and preference. And while 21212 was good, it was not a conception of cuisine I could relate to. I could not find a focus in those dishes. And the issue of portion size, raised by some, is not as philistine as it seems: I think that a piece of meat or fish needs a minimum size and quantity to offer a full gustatory experience, to afford the natural succulence, texture, moistness and flavour to occupy your palate. That meagre single scallop cut in half, that guinea fowl sliced in those ever so thin three bites, simply failed to make an impression, and were overwhelmed, rather than enhanced, by the army of other flavours (and offering farmed seabass, in a menu with just two main courses, confirms a certain lack of interest in raw materials). I felt no real joy while eating (except with the excellent cheese dish). You know when you read a novel and you recognise it is fantastically well written, but you just can't get interested in the core story? I felt the same yesterday - I did not succeed in getting interested in the story in Paul Kitching's dishes. For different reasons I had also failed to be excited, and yet greatly admired, M Wishart, while I am indeed excited by the Kitchin. But I go out to be excited, not to admire. There were also some specific service issues. (1) The cutlery and the plates, let's face it, are ridiculous and uncomfortable. Do I go too far in saying that this fact reveals a bit too much narcissism and showmanship and love of appearances, and a bit too little concern for customer's comfort? (2) When asked (by Katie) if everything was alright, we said the food was 'nice' (if we have no specific complaint we don't feel it is appropriate to bother staff, in mid-lunch, with our world view on cooking ... ), but we did mention we found the cutlery and plates uncomfortable. Her answer 'I hear what you are saying, but we are not going to change it' came across as just a little awkward and defensive. (3) We felt uncomfortable at the unclothed table with the sofa near the window (which most people say they love!) where we were seated, mainly because we like clothed tables and because I did not fit properly under it - there is a cross bar and my own legs are very long. We mentioned this to a couple of staff and we got no offer to move to another table (we did not ask directly to be moved because a refusal would have been a lunch spoiler, and also because after all we prefer polite prodding, and seeing how service works, over blunt requests...).(4) I do not consider it acceptabale in a fine dining restaurant, where I pay for much more than food, that the table is not cleaned at the end of service. Current prices are higher than those mentioned in the thread. The whole hog (5 courses) is 65 at dinner (the only option) and 55 at lunch, with the options of 4, 3 and 2 dishes at 45, 35 and 25 pounds.

Looking forward to your review! I haven't been but a chef friend of mine whom I trust liked it, he said it offered simple but good Italian dishes properly prepared and at good prices. It looks like London is offering more and more of such places - hope they start coming to Scotland too.

Hi David, let me say first that you are a true hero in the Man-Woman family since a review of yours here led us to discover that gem, Texture. And whenever I've tried, I've found that my taste agrees with yours. But... ...in this case I find it really, really difficult to believe Zucca's quality can be that high. Quality materials cost, there's no way out of it (e.g. good, say 24 month, San Daniele will be 30 a kilo), so it seems to me that either this pricing is unsustainable, or... Anyway, until I try it I'll take your (and others') word for it! Let me make a few points, however . The presentation of the dishes is despicable and wouldn't cost much to improve. A vittello tonnato without some simple garnish (whole capers, or some fresh herb, whatever) looks really like vomit - I would not present it in that way to my guests let alone in a restaurant (I am convinced Harter's reaction to the dish must be predisposed by an unconscious association of this kind, as it is a delicious dish). The sauce looks also too runny (= cheaply made). The fregola seems too have very little fregola in it - in case you are intereseted you can see here or here or here for example how it is served in three restaurants in Sardinia (and almost surely Zucca's wasn't home made). The San Daniele looks dry and nasty and badly cut. I don't know what to make of it - comparing this report with your other one from Bocca di Lupo, the latter's dishes look from the photos far more enticing and better prepared to me, as well as the portions being more believable if true quality is to be achieved at those prices. But then again, you are a hero and I hope to be proved wrong.

I couldn't agree more. Since Woman and I tried it several months ago, we thought this Beck enterprise moved Italian cuisine in London one clear notch up compared with the best competition. Now we live in Scotland, so it's slightly out of reach - but if I could, I'd be there much more often than the one time every couple of months I can fit into my London trips now. The a la carte prices are a little steep (though, given the very top level materials, cuisine, location and setting, very reasonable after all) but at lunch, what incredible value! There is a sense of generosity in how they treat you (with each dish and with the number of dishes!) that is quite unusual in London (note: repeat custom, even at our modest level without extravagant expenses, is appreciated and suitably rewarded...). Just been there today. As always, a beautiful, civilised, relaxing, elegant environment, bathed in light, with friendly and very, very attentive service. We deviated from two 3 course lunch menus just to get the stunning dessert called 'Latte' (a caleidoscopic array of milky and chocolatey delicacies, almost petit four-like in their prettiness and concentrated technique, but more substantial). With £33 for two glasses of wine, plus coffees and bottled water, our bill was £127 which, I repeat, is incredible value. 12.5% service is included as usual; but this is the unique place in London in which we leave additional tip in order not to feel like we have perpetrated a theft... I hope they get a 2*. For comparison, Tuesday we'll be at Gauthier Soho (for just the second time) - there's a nice place with some little stunners where, however, we didn't feel overwhelmed by a sense of generosity (and in case you are wondering, no, this is not our typical two days ).

Ah ah! Having been there a few times (in a few months), I've had the same experience. I think a chef has no duty to entertain the customer, but also that it's good manners to at least thank/acknowledge repeat vistors. And also good business practice: people tend to go most often where they feel welcome.

The more we live here, the more we are realising that there aren't only the (valient) usual suspects in Scotland. I wanted to briefly mention a new little gem we have just discovered. It's called Gordon's, a charming mother, father and son operation with only 24 covers. It's near Arbroath (where you can stop for the famous smokie) and the Lunan Bay. We were expecting family style, rustic, generous cuisine. There is some of that, but what surprised us were the technique and creativity in dishes which reveal a burning ambition (we guess, the son's, moderated by the wisdom of the father). A foie gras parfait with chicken liver was stunning, but they really pulled out all the stops with a Gressingham duck with a vanilla & parsnip cream (sounded weird to us, but it worked in the dish) and braised cabbage - the dish and the way it was served (mini-pot with 'lesser' parts confit) reminded us of the best Arbutus (except the portions were far larger). Not to miss if you are in the area. More comment and pictures to follow in a couple of weeks at our place.

Had dinner at the recently (re)starred Peat Inn in Fife and must say the Scots offer you a quality of materials and quantity which are just impossible in London at similar prices. A well-deserved star in my opinion. Still rooting for a star to 63 Tay Street in Perth, though.

A star for frankness to Russell Norman of Polpo: “Michelin is less relevant than ever. I had a pretentious meal at Ducasse that left me craving real food and honesty”. A star for networking skills to L'Anima. Apsleys not mentioned. Minus a star for networking, two stars for the cuisine. Theo Randall? Ah ah. I've had some very classy and fine meals at Texture, I wish them well. But in the end Russel Norman is right: who cares?

Had a delightful quick lunch there today. These guys are really working well, in the kitchen and in the room. I have no idea if they are going to get a star, but they certainly deserve it.

Definitely, although I had the better meal at Sauc, Alkimia is probably more flamboyant and pushes the boundaries more. One to try, though there may be severe ups and downs...

I had a good and interesting dinner at Alkimia, but my experience at Sauc (here) was overall at a higher and more consistent level. Happy eating!

Well, one might agree or disagree with the judgement, but that there has been debate and scandal is fact, not a matter of opinion. Just look at the Papero Giallo blog (where the foodies congregate) entry on Lopriore. That IS the big news of this year and I was merely reporting this fact. I haven't been at Il Canto, so no specific opinion. But I'd like to mention that Walter Miori at Locanda Margon in Trento, a restaurant I love, has also lost his star. He does rather traditional, regionally based cuisine. For me personally this is the inexplicable Michelin rating of this year. But I accept that in a partially subjective field like this there may be differing opinions. Perhaps what irks me a little is a critical system whereby judgements are passed with little or no motivation, so it is hard to empathise with the opposite viewpoint. I love Italian cuisine in all its incarnations, traditional, modern, and all the many varieties in between, provided that the flavours are there, loud and clear, and they stand together. I dread a world in which Italian cuusine is trapped within the confines of regional recipes. Cuisine evolves with the world. The French don't cook like Escoffier any more, and for the life of me I don't see why all Italian chefs should not absorb, or create, new ideas.

Now online

Well, if you start putting conditions on a chef's character and opinions before trying his or her food, you risk, if not starvation, at least missing on many, many pinnacles of gastronomy (same as when you start enquiring about the private lives and opinions of artists). At any rate guys, some caution is advisable before accusing somebody of ignorance or even of committing an offence - is there any verifiable source for the allegation? Does Beck state his opinion in the book (which he co-wrote with three other people, by the way)? Did he state his opinion personally on the German TV program? Or was it just reported? At any rate, I confirm that Beck is doing very well in Berlusconi's Italy, and he will do equally well when the odious man clears off once and for all, simply because he is a genious (Beck, not Berlusconi, though no doubt he would claim so).

While that is welcome news, you will find that among Italian gastronomes all the debate and the scandal is about why Paolo Lopriore (Il Canto in Siena) has lost his star!

Glad we are one the same gustatory wavelength! (When I read Matthew Norman's review on the Guardian I despaired). On your blog I see very interesting variations of the dishes we had: crepinette of 'pernice' instead of lamb, game ravioli with squash in lieu of rabbit and pistachio.